Jump to content
inTank Media Baskets

NanoBox Unit Constructive Talk : Changes, Discussion, Ideas


DaveFason

Recommended Posts

I haven't received my light yet but perhaps a 6th driver on the board to run a refuge light off the 6th Bluefish channel.

 

Better yet.. a refuge light add on with magnet mount or top mount options.

 

I plan on building one to stick on the back of my Biocube.

Link to comment

Nah, you're fine. The thing to watch for is coloration. Too low light means corals darken or brown, too high means the lighten and bleach.

Okay, whew. Thanks for the tip.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Okay, that Amazon River Basin locale has me intrigued! Actually looking at lighting options for a 10G planted tank. I had Nip's old 30c planted up for awhile with his LED setup. The ADA seam near one of the top corners finally started giving after all these years so I've upgraded to a 10G starfire instead. I'd be interested in seeing what you come up with for the new FW light, especially if it came with a clean arm or attachment, other than the gooseneck option.

 

Nip's old LED light is a stunner of a fixture, but I don't need the blues in it and the box that comes with it is rather large and not pleasing to the eye.

led_body_122111.jpg

 

led_lens_122111.jpg

 

led_control_122111.jpg

 

30c_121911.jpg

 

Sucker can grow plants.

c_jacobsenii_061713.jpg

 

Just need something w/out a big black box that's aesthetically pleasing with some controllability.

Link to comment
SpencerShepard

 

- power failure recovery is a real problem. I completely understand it really can't be fixed given the whole basis of the bluefish technology, but let's face it, it's a problem none of your competitors have. If you lose internet/wifi, and then cycle the power to the light, you can't turn the light back on until the cable company gets around to restoring your internet. But I agree that defaulting to "off" is much less dangerous to corals than defaulting to "on at 100%" would be.

Serious question...is it really a problem? I can't recall ever losing internet for more that a few minutes. Maybe I'm just lucky? One customer reported that his router was fried due to a lightning strike and he also lost power in the storm. Even in that worst case scenario or some other event where you will be without internet for hours or days, you should still have the option to use your cell phone as a wifi hotspot to get it online.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Serious question...is it really a problem? I can't recall ever losing internet for more that a few minutes. Maybe I'm just lucky? One customer reported that his router was fried due to a lightning strike and he also lost power in the storm. Even in that worst case scenario or some other event where you will be without internet for hours or days, you should still have the option to use your cell phone as a wifi hotspot to get it online.

It is if you're out of town for a few weeks. :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
SpencerShepard

It is if you're out of town for a few weeks. :)

You're out of town on a trip, and an electrical storm fries your router and trips your power. Then yes, that is certainly a problem. Murphy is a jerk, but seems rather unlikely, no? Otherwise you should be okay. :P

Link to comment

You're out of town on a trip, and an electrical storm fries your router and trips your power. Then yes, that is certainly a problem. Murphy is a jerk, but seems rather unlikely, no? Otherwise you should be okay. :P

I understand it's unlikely, that said, it can happen and having a default setting (even if it's super low) or better yet remembering the settings without the need for an internet connection would be ideal and is certainly a good suggestion IMO. :)

 

=====

 

On a personal note Dave, a 6 or 8 bulb hybrid would rule. :)

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment

Funny you say this. I will try and find my sketches but this was an idea ~two years ago. The hardest part is finding a way to connect the wires together. You can now put two units together and they will look seamless ( almost ).

 

Great idea!

One concept that I thought could be awesome for a light unit.

Being able to connect two or more units together physically to create a larger unit, like Legos if you will.

Say you purchase a tide to begin with, then you upgrade your tank. Now instead of buying a duo and selling the tide, you just purchase a tide add on.

As your system grows or coral demand grows, you can add on modules to accommodate those demands.

I realize that such a feat could be challenging. But so far no company in the reefing industry has offered a scaling option like that.

 

I am working on a 12" that would be more of a universal gooseneck.

 

Cable is right at the top of my list!

 

I have been playing with adding a real time clock and a micro controller to help with this. Or have an "oh crap" setting. When WIFI goes out or you have no WIFI you have three settings. Say a 33-66-99%. With a ~20K color.

 

Thanks for the input John!

I love this thread! Some random thoughts:

 

- gooseneck option between the two current sizes. The small gooseneck is just a smidge too short for the IM10/20, the 15" is much too long. Or like I think was already suggested, a new, more flexible/adjustable mounting system other than gooseneck or hanging.

 

- the removable cable idea is huge in my book. If you want to route the cable through a cable port in the back of a cabinet, you have to take apart the controller, disconnect all the wires, run the cable, and then put it all back together and hope you got it right. And heaven forbid you ever need to move it again if you're cleaning up your cabling mess :)

 

- power failure recovery is a real problem. I completely understand it really can't be fixed given the whole basis of the bluefish technology, but let's face it, it's a problem none of your competitors have. If you lose internet/wifi, and then cycle the power to the light, you can't turn the light back on until the cable company gets around to restoring your internet. But I agree that defaulting to "off" is much less dangerous to corals than defaulting to "on at 100%" would be.

 

I am hoping to add a function for slave lights that could work with this. The Bluefish however is completely maxed with the sixth channel being the fan channel.

I haven't received my light yet but perhaps a 6th driver on the board to run a refuge light off the 6th Bluefish channel.

 

Better yet.. a refuge light add on with magnet mount or top mount options.

 

I plan on building one to stick on the back of my Biocube.

 

Funny! Nips is one of the sole reasons I got into making lights. I loved his ideas, creativity, etc and the light you have was a true inspiration. Holding the weight of that puppy is a lot! I have a bent arm that I hope will be public here soon. I had to find a consistent vendor that could provide the bends and then have them anodized.

 

My new tank is pretty simple. Ehiem filter, heater, NanoBox Mini Flare, paintball CO2 and Do!Aqua diffuser. Currently the monte carlo is growing quickly and very nice. I went full submerged as well. Also will have a couple other tanks dedicated to warm color plants.

 

What do YOU look for in a planted light? Please be honest.

Okay, that Amazon River Basin locale has me intrigued! Actually looking at lighting options for a 10G planted tank. I had Nip's old 30c planted up for awhile with his LED setup. The ADA seam near one of the top corners finally started giving after all these years so I've upgraded to a 10G starfire instead. I'd be interested in seeing what you come up with for the new FW light, especially if it came with a clean arm or attachment, other than the gooseneck option.

 

Nip's old LED light is a stunner of a fixture, but I don't need the blues in it and the box that comes with it is rather large and not pleasing to the eye.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sucker can grow plants.

 

 

Just need something w/out a big black box that's aesthetically pleasing with some controllability.

 

Hoping to have something soon. However the RETRO Sunpowers really are a bitchin' light with the NanoBox arrays now. One cable, etc. Much better than your first or the first! Your tank popped up on IG with the OG light. :D

I understand it's unlikely, that said, it can happen and having a default setting (even if it's super low) or better yet remembering the settings without the need for an internet connection would be ideal and is certainly a good suggestion IMO. :)

=====

On a personal note Dave, a 6 or 8 bulb hybrid would rule. :)

  • Like 2
Link to comment

Hoping to have something soon. However the RETRO Sunpowers really are a bitchin' light with the NanoBox arrays now. One cable, etc. Much better than your first or the first! Your tank popped up on IG with the OG light. :D

 

Oh nice! One cable FTW. :D Yah, it seems to pop up on there sometimes on those share other peoples' tanks accounts. :lol:

Link to comment

Serious question...is it really a problem? I can't recall ever losing internet for more that a few minutes. Maybe I'm just lucky? One customer reported that his router was fried due to a lightning strike and he also lost power in the storm. Even in that worst case scenario or some other event where you will be without internet for hours or days, you should still have the option to use your cell phone as a wifi hotspot to get it online.

 

I am having an ongoing issue because my internet sucks. The wireless router is on the other end of the house and it seems that I get a really bad or nothing at all signal in my office where my Bluefish (and computer) are. My Bluefish are frequently blinking RED because they can't pickup the signal. Two weeks ago, both of my tanks had late night lightning storms three nights in a row because they couldn't reconnect to the internet to get current weather data.

 

Sure, I could have gotten up and used my cell phone data (my cell phone doesn't pickup with wireless signal in the room either), but that would have required me to get out of bed!

 

It's not a BIG problem, but one that would be nice to have a solution to.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

 

I am having an ongoing issue because my internet sucks. The wireless router is on the other end of the house and it seems that I get a really bad or nothing at all signal in my office where my Bluefish (and computer) are. My Bluefish are frequently blinking RED because they can't pickup the signal. Two weeks ago, both of my tanks had late night lightning storms three nights in a row because they couldn't reconnect to the internet to get current weather data.

 

Sure, I could have gotten up and used my cell phone data (my cell phone doesn't pickup with wireless signal in the room either), but that would have required me to get out of bed!

 

It's not a BIG problem, but one that would be nice to have a solution to.

 

I have an old house and thick walls. My signal was terrible in the guest/fish room so I picked up one of these. Game changer for not only that room but the house signal.

 

Of course I know this is not the end all be all but I really easy solution.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Extender-Essentials-EX2700/dp/B00L0YLRUW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485443280&sr=8-1&keywords=wifi+extender

 

Wifi signals are one of the main causes of headaches in general for all gadgets. I have WIFI outlets that I had to connect closer to the router then set in the other room. Testing multiple vendor LED units they all mimicked the same way. Once I had the extender, BOOM!

 

-Dave

  • Like 2
Link to comment

Dave- with a slight redesign of the driver board and some clever software, you could free up the sixth channel of the BlueFish. The fan controller could be wired and programmed to follow an "average" of all six led PWM signals, instead of just one user defined setting.

  • Like 5
Link to comment

For a FW light, the Blue takes the back seat to the bottom. Warm whites and cool whites run the tank with red and green/lime a nice to have. Most run them at 10K for display down to maybe 5K for growth. There are a few that want a higher blue content, but those are more for the GloFish tanks.

 

So for me, ditch the Violet and Cyan and add another warm white and cool white.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Serious question...is it really a problem? I can't recall ever losing internet for more that a few minutes. Maybe I'm just lucky? One customer reported that his router was fried due to a lightning strike and he also lost power in the storm. Even in that worst case scenario or some other event where you will be without internet for hours or days, you should still have the option to use your cell phone as a wifi hotspot to get it online.

 

Is it cost prohibitive to put enough non-volatile ram on board to save the settings in case of this kind of situation happening? It could be placed in the blinkup card so folks can upgrade by purchasing a newer card? I agree it's a rare occurrence, and the router should be protected, but things happen.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
jedimasterben

 

Is it cost prohibitive to put enough non-volatile ram on board to save the settings in case of this kind of situation happening? It could be placed in the blinkup card so folks can upgrade by purchasing a newer card? I agree it's a rare occurrence, and the router should be protected, but things happen.

AFAIK this is just how Electric Imp works, I don't think they offer any with storage.
Link to comment

Funny! Nips is one of the sole reasons I got into making lights. I loved his ideas, creativity, etc and the light you have was a true inspiration. Holding the weight of that puppy is a lot! I have a bent arm that I hope will be public here soon. I had to find a consistent vendor that could provide the bends and then have them anodized.

 

My new tank is pretty simple. Ehiem filter, heater, NanoBox Mini Flare, paintball CO2 and Do!Aqua diffuser. Currently the monte carlo is growing quickly and very nice. I went full submerged as well. Also will have a couple other tanks dedicated to warm color plants.

 

What do YOU look for in a planted light? Please be honest.

 

Very nice!

 

What do I look for in a planted light?

 

Overall, what I'm looking for is pretty simple. I want a light that can grow any plant. A piece of equipment that's aesthetic pleasing to the eye that I can slap on a high end system and have it out in the open for viewing (ADA, eLos, Biopod (which I'm still waiting on)).

 

Mounting system should look integrated (Nip's light did this well, until you don't want to use the brass anodized thin plate that it was attached to). I don't like goosenecks since it resembles one of those old school gooseneck desklamps that we had when we were growing up (did the job, but not pleasing to the eye) and from other's experience it's impossible to get it aligned (symmetry is important). The closest cleanest look that I've seen so far has been Halo's system, but there's one thing that bugs me about that with a lot of tank mounts. It's the fact that the nylon screws are facing into the tank. It would be almost perfect if the screws was outside of the tank, with just the clip inside the tank.

 

The light should be able to grow anything and easy to photograph whatever is inside the box. Not sure how that dictates over to LEDs though since I just don't build lights or know a lot about the current chips. On Nips' light I ran 12 of his LEDs on (of the 16), with 8 of them being white and then 4 of them being blues to offset some of the warmth of the WW. A programmable system that I can reach via the cloud or Android/iOS app with full control of spectrum as well as intensity would be sweet.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
SpencerShepard

 

Is it cost prohibitive to put enough non-volatile ram on board to save the settings in case of this kind of situation happening? It could be placed in the blinkup card so folks can upgrade by purchasing a newer card? I agree it's a rare occurrence, and the router should be protected, but things happen.

I wouldn't necessarily say it's cost prohibitive, but of course it does add cost, takes up board space, etc. Balancing the needs/wants of customers with these things is the difficult part. It is certainly possible that we could add memory to future hardware.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

For a FW light, the Blue takes the back seat to the bottom. Warm whites and cool whites run the tank with red and green/lime a nice to have. Most run them at 10K for display down to maybe 5K for growth. There are a few that want a higher blue content, but those are more for the GloFish tanks.

 

So for me, ditch the Violet and Cyan and add another warm white and cool white.

 

 

 

Very nice!

 

What do I look for in a planted light?

 

Overall, what I'm looking for is pretty simple. I want a light that can grow any plant. A piece of equipment that's aesthetic pleasing to the eye that I can slap on a high end system and have it out in the open for viewing (ADA, eLos, Biopod (which I'm still waiting on)).

 

Mounting system should look integrated (Nip's light did this well, until you don't want to use the brass anodized thin plate that it was attached to). I don't like goosenecks since it resembles one of those old school gooseneck desklamps that we had when we were growing up (did the job, but not pleasing to the eye) and from other's experience it's impossible to get it aligned (symmetry is important). The closest cleanest look that I've seen so far has been Halo's system, but there's one thing that bugs me about that with a lot of tank mounts. It's the fact that the nylon screws are facing into the tank. It would be almost perfect if the screws was outside of the tank, with just the clip inside the tank.

 

The light should be able to grow anything and easy to photograph whatever is inside the box. Not sure how that dictates over to LEDs though since I just don't build lights or know a lot about the current chips. On Nips' light I ran 12 of his LEDs on (of the 16), with 8 of them being white and then 4 of them being blues to offset some of the warmth of the WW. A programmable system that I can reach via the cloud or Android/iOS app with full control of spectrum as well as intensity would be sweet.

 

Thanks for your input. It is a hard niche to hit with how many people have there personal taste. I am thinking of ditching the two cyan/blue with more white and still keep violet.

 

This is only week two. Started submerged. Quick photos for you guys. I will play around with a bent arm and see what you guys think. :)

 

32390046992_8b846aab76_z.jpgnbrplantedweek2 by David Fason, on Flickr

32390046772_360881b55d_z.jpgnbrplantside by David Fason, on Flickr

 

-Dave

  • Like 3
Link to comment

 

 

 

Thanks for your input. It is a hard niche to hit with how many people have there personal taste. I am thinking of ditching the two cyan/blue with more white and still keep violet.

 

This is only week two. Started submerged. Quick photos for you guys. I will play around with a bent arm and see what you guys think. :)

 

32390046992_8b846aab76_z.jpgnbrplantedweek2 by David Fason, on Flickr

32390046772_360881b55d_z.jpgnbrplantside by David Fason, on Flickr

 

-Dave

 

Very clean looking setup there.

 

That gooseneck attachment is almost right on the money there. Some comments on it. If it was less beefy at the base it would help. It could just be the color as well. It really sticks out. That gooseneck looks good, but would be awesome if it was a bent galvanized instead and the hole in the back where it's attached to the base, if it would be awesome if it fed all the way through for the galvanized for vertical adjustments. Heck, I'm tempted to test out the new spectral blend if you change out the blues.

 

I need to redo my 10G setup soon. It's been hosting a breeding pair of apistos, with green neons, zebra and tiger otos. The female harassed the male to death after their last clutch.

 

Momma with eggs in the BG

DSC_3212.jpg

 

Close up of the eggs

DSC_3210.jpg

 

Youngins' foraging.

DSC_3229.jpg

 

DSC_3230.jpg

 

DSC_3232.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment

I love this thread! Some random thoughts:

 

- gooseneck option between the two current sizes. The small gooseneck is just a smidge too short for the IM10/20, the 15" is much too long. Or like I think was already suggested, a new, more flexible/adjustable mounting system other than gooseneck or hanging.

 

- the removable cable idea is huge in my book. If you want to route the cable through a cable port in the back of a cabinet, you have to take apart the controller, disconnect all the wires, run the cable, and then put it all back together and hope you got it right. And heaven forbid you ever need to move it again if you're cleaning up your cabling mess :)

 

- power failure recovery is a real problem. I completely understand it really can't be fixed given the whole basis of the bluefish technology, but let's face it, it's a problem none of your competitors have. If you lose internet/wifi, and then cycle the power to the light, you can't turn the light back on until the cable company gets around to restoring your internet. But I agree that defaulting to "off" is much less dangerous to corals than defaulting to "on at 100%" would be.

 

I just drilled a big hole in the stand :lol: much easier.........

 

I like the idea of a plug though.

  • Like 2
Link to comment

I wouldn't necessarily say it's cost prohibitive, but of course it does add cost, takes up board space, etc. Balancing the needs/wants of customers with these things is the difficult part. It is certainly possible that we could add memory to future hardware.

 

 

Add it. This day and age you shouldn't have to wait for the internet to come back in order to get your light back up. My neighborhood lost internet for almost 2 days after some idiot tried to steal the copper out of the box down the street. This isn't the first time and won't be the last.

 

 

And down here in the states they try and charge us to use our phones as wifi hotspots. So that isn't an option for a lot of people.

  • Like 3
Link to comment

 

When I got the quad from you that's what I did. 2 1/2 hole saw and everything slips right in ;)

When I set up my IM40 on top of the bookcase cabinet, I drilled a hole for the wires. I pulled the tank out a few inches to make it easy to hook everything up, pushed it back in place, filled it with water sand and rocks, and then corals and fish.

 

I went to install a new piece of equipment. I'm pretty sure it was my new Nanobox Wide Quad :D

 

That's when I realized that not only was a 1 1/2" hole not really big enough, I also covered half of it with the tank :wacko: #wishingihadabiggerhole

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recommended Discussions

×
×
  • Create New...