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NanoBox Unit Constructive Talk : Changes, Discussion, Ideas


DaveFason

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I think most points were mentioned in the original post. I really like the idea of a FAQ section.

 

  • Path to Upgrade planning....older units can be upgraded with newer LED as tech changes for a fee. The idea that you're buying something that isnt necessarily obsolete in the mid-term future.
  • Less fan revving during cloud mode enabled.
  • Storms off when the lights are off.
  • Better presets. Common settings for common tanks.
  • Nanobox FAQ section in app. (common settings, height above tank, etc)
  • Better explanation for morning - day - evening - night.

 

 

Fresh water is something I have tried to push for years. It is EXTREMELY hard to get someone to buy a 200+ light when something that is ~ $40 can do the job. While not pretty it works. I just set up a new planted tank that will be documented. I am also trying to work with UNS/Buce on a few projects. I am working on a FW ON/OFF light with upgrade path to WIFI that will run $140. Thanks and noted!

I was pretty sure you could already do this....Path to Upgrade planning

 

You have already mentioned most of mine, but I would like to see more growth in the Fresh Water. I love your lights, but I did have a hard time getting a setting on the Flare that I loved. Maybe too much time looking at my reef and comparing the two. :)

 

All three in the works. I am bringing back the ECO light. Planning on retail ~ $140 with mount. Looking like June release.

*Ability to connect multiple units (I have a duo and I may upgrade tanks and want to add another's

* Color presets for specific needs (softy/LPS, SPS growth, SPS color, etc)

* pico light for extra small tanks

 

This has been racking my brain. With the new style tanks in the style being very long it will either take two lights or one larger one.

 

My reason for running the wire through the gooseneck is for super clean wiring. I am looking at something like the AI/Eco tank mount that runs the lights on a "track". Your thoughts?

One thing about the mounting that I would like to see is some way to make the gooseneck mounting work for peninsula tanks. Maybe having the mounting bit be more on top or something, like the Radions have? That could tie into making it easier to switch between gooseneck and hanging, too. I don't know. It's just that with all the peninsula-style tanks coming out (Innovative Marine's line, those Artfully Acrylic Drop-off tanks, and it's rumored that a peninsula style series is in the works for Red Sea), it really sucks that there is no good way for Nanobox users who can't have the lights hanging to use your lights on those kinds of tanks. I mean you can use the gooseneck and mount it on one of the long sides of the tank, but I think we can all agree that that really disrupts the aesthetic.

 

I'd also like to second burtbollinger's call for a system of upgradeable LED pucks, like Radion has. I mean, the bodies of your lights are really sturdy and could easily last a lifetime. It would be great if there were a way to just upgrade the LEDs as you come out with better arrays. (Of course, there would probably reach a point like with the Radions where the body would have to be upgraded to be compatible with the newest LED pucks, but it would at least extend the lifetime of the lights. I think that's a big selling point.)

 

Noted. I really like this as well.

Offer alternative non gooseneck option. More and more vendors are moving away from goosenecks because they are hard to shape exactly the way you want. The Nanobox unit itself is beautiful and it's annoys me when the gooseneck is slightly bent the wrong way and it's a pain to get it exactly the way I want it. I like Kessil's new mount option that allows you to adjust vertically and horizontally.

 

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Curious about this. What are you trying to adjust. With hundreds of units out there this year I would really like to know what is going on. Possibly something you are doing that I can help! Email me. david@nanoboxreef.com

I really don't like the Bluefish. I can never get it to adjust to what I want it to do.

 

I am bringing back the ECO light. Planning on retail ~ $140 with mount. Looking like June release.

 

As for the RB in the 440-445 I am getting really close to this with the LUX C. Just remember your the 1% ( like me! ) and 99% of people will not notice the difference.

Although the Tide is already small enough,I think something even smaller for the pico world would be awesome. Something 2 channels,like the old 11up's,but in a 6 or 8 led package.. Seeming vase reefs are very popular right now,something for them would be cool too,like a circular shaped fixture,and a some type of mounting.

 

Even just a smaller array would be something to think about like I mentioned above just for reefers to retro. Are you able to source the Aquamarine Blue's that Rapid carries ?

 

The new NBR units are very clean. The retros are a double edge sword. Most of these are 100% custom. Meaning there is no way to have this ready on the heatsinks without carrying 50+ SKU's. From multi channels, different amount of arrays, etc. I will be switching to connectors making it look cleaner in the underside for the retros. This is a little ways out but in the works. Noted.

Cleaner wiring. The only thing I don't like about the lights is when you look at the actual arrays the wiring is all over the place. Maybe drill a hole to the side of the solder points and hide the wiring behind the heatsink.

 

Yep!

Would the hybrid mean T5 and led?

 

I was going to make a post on this. Everyone that has bought a unit or array in the last four months has Mint. :D

Any news on how the Mint led's turned out?

 

Thanks for this! What type of tank are you using?

  1. Did you receive the new metal screws? I had a run of nylon screws that really made mounting difficult.
  2. I have always been into aesthetics. Meaning I hate the look of a wire being zip tied to a gooseneck. While it 100% makes this harder for the customer to swap to hanging 95% of my sales are for goosenecks.
  3. Agree. And something I am working on. I am a one man show and simply do not have the R&D funds like others. I can tell you that now that I have more resources than ever this is in the works.
  4. Working on it!

Well, I think this is a great topic. I have been running my Duo since Jan 1, Changing from a 5year old Kessel A350. I like the light fixture,But am not as impressed and I would have liked to be,Honestly. Having Controll, and the Bluefish App, I like. The Mounting arm and its appearance,Well that's a whole other topic.
#1 The Arm mount is Flimsey and very weak compared to the Kessel Mount, which is a concern. This Mount will NOT stay straight, and the Bend will not stay , not matter what I do. This is an Issue in a house of OCD people ;) I finally have it as close to acceptable as possible to the Wife, but am scared to touch if for fear of it going crooked again.
#2 The mount should Not be a part of the light, but should attach to the fixture itself, allowing the consumers the ability to utilize Other mounting options without having to dismantle it.
#3 There should be options, giving the consumer a choice, on how to mount their light. Other manufacturers in the industry offer Mounting choices, and I think this would benefit you greatly!
#4 There should be a disconnect or Plug at the Bluefish Box, allowing the ability to run the wires through a small cut out, or hole.
Currently I have to have the Bluefish behind my stand, and not in my stand, because it won't fit thru my cord cut outs. This is the only piece of equipment I have to do this with.
The quality of the fixture, and its appearance are great, just need some improvements on how it is mounted for use.

My 2 Cents......Shane


Thanks Spencer!

 

I like this idea but not sure how to make it easier. I want to make a guide for shooting better photos but even still is VERY difficult with LED's.

a pre-set "camera mode" for common cameras (read iPhone) would be helpful and take a lot of the guesswork out of having to adjust the lighting.

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I like how the wires are in the gooseneck. But yes a quick disconnect from the box would be so worth it, even if the connector was $10 or so. Maybe as an option?

 

Also, need the hybrid fixture up on the site with pricing options and size options. Let's get a 48" 6 bulb 4/8 puck model! Haha

 

Also maybe have the ATI Retros on the site. With cost of the retrofit, and an option to send the fixture to you or purchase a new one from you.

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I like how the wires are in the gooseneck. But yes a quick disconnect from the box would be so worth it, even if the connector was $10 or so. Maybe as an option?

 

Also, need the hybrid fixture up on the site with pricing options and size options. Let's get a 48" 6 bulb 4/8 puck model! Haha

Literally working on the ATI kits now.

 

Less options are good for people. But this will be something on NBR units in the future. Also trying to find a way to do so on past/current.

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I would actually like to see a video comparing your fixtures against others in the same reef tank and over same corals. I remember watching the ATI light bulb comparison video from advanced reef aquarium and wondering why people have not done this with leds. With the crazy amount of fixtures out there it would be impossible to do them all but I feel Nanobox could stand up to the major ones. The difference in coverage area, PAR, color blending and appearance with similar settings for each fixture could be really intriguing. Finding mutual settings could be a challenge.

 

Factor in pricing and some good top down FTS and macro shots and people would appreciate the quality and choice of LEDs used in Nanobox fixtures.

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I would actually like to see a video comparing your fixtures against others in the same reef tank and over same corals. I remember watching the ATI light bulb comparison video from advanced reef aquarium and wondering why people have not done this with leds. With the crazy amount of fixtures out there it would be impossible to do them all but I feel Nanobox could stand up to the major ones. The difference in coverage area, PAR, color blending and appearance with similar settings for each fixture could be really intriguing. Finding mutual settings could be a challenge.

 

Factor in pricing and some good top down FTS and macro shots and people would appreciate the quality and choice of LEDs used in Nanobox fixtures.

BRS did a video last year on all the major LED vendors

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Dave,

 

First, the lights have come MILES from the older versions and are so much cleaner than they used to be (remember the crazy wiring on my custom Dual quads with a single storm x controller? ha). I love my tide and I think it looks so clean over my tank.

 

I think different mounting options would be nice, but I dont mind the current gooseneck except if I get a larger tank I cant swap it out. If you move to different mounting options it would be killer to have a a channel to run the wiring to still keep the clean look of the current gooseneck.

 

My only critiques:

Different mounting options

Bluefish updates, these look to be handled. Really its the lightning with lights off (which be fine if my tank wasnt in my bedroom) and idk about anyone else if im looking at my settings I always accidentally scroll and change one accidentally.

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I would love to but the amount of tanks, lights, etc that would be needed is a true coral vendor option. Also it has to be third party or else people would think " IT WAS RIGGED "!

I would actually like to see a video comparing your fixtures against others in the same reef tank and over same corals. I remember watching the ATI light bulb comparison video from advanced reef aquarium and wondering why people have not done this with leds. With the crazy amount of fixtures out there it would be impossible to do them all but I feel Nanobox could stand up to the major ones. The difference in coverage area, PAR, color blending and appearance with similar settings for each fixture could be really intriguing. Finding mutual settings could be a challenge.

 

Factor in pricing and some good top down FTS and macro shots and people would appreciate the quality and choice of LEDs used in Nanobox fixtures.

 

Lightning with lights off? What do you mean?

Dave,

 

First, the lights have come MILES from the older versions and are so much cleaner than they used to be (remember the crazy wiring on my custom Dual quads with a single storm x controller? ha). I love my tide and I think it looks so clean over my tank.

 

I think different mounting options would be nice, but I dont mind the current gooseneck except if I get a larger tank I cant swap it out. If you move to different mounting options it would be killer to have a a channel to run the wiring to still keep the clean look of the current gooseneck.

 

My only critiques:

Different mounting options

Bluefish updates, these look to be handled. Really its the lightning with lights off (which be fine if my tank wasnt in my bedroom) and idk about anyone else if im looking at my settings I always accidentally scroll and change one accidentally.

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Lightning with lights off? What do you mean?

 

Lights off meaning night mode, At night I am not running moonlights or anything (used to but it messed with me falling asleep) and if its storming in Fiji I would get flashes of lightning even though all my night settings were at 0%.

 

I believe its what they are talking about in their post about being able to turning lightning off at night.

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I was going to make a post on this. Everyone that has bought a unit or array in the last four months has Mint. :D

Lmao, that's probably one of the biggest ninja changes to the light.

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Fresh water is something I have tried to push for years. It is EXTREMELY hard to get someone to buy a 200+ light when something that is ~ $40 can do the job. While not pretty it works. I just set up a new planted tank that will be documented. I am also trying to work with UNS/Buce on a few projects. I am working on a FW ON/OFF light with upgrade path to WIFI that will run $140. Thanks and noted!

 

All three in the works. I am bringing back the ECO light. Planning on retail ~ $140 with mount. Looking like June release.

 

I really like both of these ideas. Regarding the FW ON/OFF idea, I think a simple dimmer included with it would be the best route. I know how powerful your units are and I think people will definitely need a dimming option out of the box. Esp. if they do not want high tech everywhere else (CO2, ferts, etc.)

 

Both excellent ideas. I have been itching for a FW pico for a while and would definitely go for a light in that price range.

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Fresh water is something I have tried to push for years. It is EXTREMELY hard to get someone to buy a 200+ light when something that is ~ $40 can do the job. While not pretty it works. I just set up a new planted tank that will be documented. I am also trying to work with UNS/Buce on a few projects. I am working on a FW ON/OFF light with upgrade path to WIFI that will run $140. Thanks and noted!

 

 

Oh forgot to mention, when my reef crashed after a multi day power outage. I totally ran one of my dual quads over my 70 gallon cube and set it up as a planted tank. Had the lights already and said screw it, I think I had the power turned up a little more but actually worked pretty well with the whites turned up and blues turned down.

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a pre-set "camera mode" for common cameras (read iPhone) would be helpful and take a lot of the guesswork out of having to adjust the lighting.

 

The Bluefish actually has a set Camera Mode where you can adjust once to the settings that make you happy and save it. Not all tanks will be the same, so having it pre-set is not likely. Also, you can set it and not have to mess with your other settings so you do not have to remember what your camera setting you liked was vs what it normally is set to. I think Bluefish did a fantastic job getting something that everyone wants already programmed in.

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Thanks for the info and that is the plan. Very simple dimming. I want to include mounting as well but keep the look of NanoBox. I think you will like.

 

I really like both of these ideas. Regarding the FW ON/OFF idea, I think a simple dimmer included with it would be the best route. I know how powerful your units are and I think people will definitely need a dimming option out of the box. Esp. if they do not want high tech everywhere else (CO2, ferts, etc.)

 

Both excellent ideas. I have been itching for a FW pico for a while and would definitely go for a light in that price range.

 

Hmm, I never knew it would still do storms during this. Let me get with Spencer if there is a work around.

 

Lights off meaning night mode, At night I am not running moonlights or anything (used to but it messed with me falling asleep) and if its storming in Fiji I would get flashes of lightning even though all my night settings were at 0%.

 

I believe its what they are talking about in their post about being able to turning lightning off at night.

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I'm going to chime in on the mounting too. I have a hanging DUO that I am currently trying to figure out how I'm going to mount over my Reefer Nano without hanging it from the ceiling. I'll probably hang it from a bracket that I fashion out of aluminum. It would be cool if there were some kind of rigid mount that screwed into the top of the light to minimize wires and hooks and give a cleaner look.

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Thanks for the info and that is the plan. Very simple dimming. I want to include mounting as well but keep the look of NanoBox. I think you will like.

 

Hmm, I never knew it would still do storms during this. Let me get with Spencer if there is a work around.

 

I think thats what he mentioned in his recent post. I mean technically, the sun is down and it storms you do get lightning. Its just a natural set up. I honestly wouldnt have thought of it if I was writing the code.

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SpencerShepard

Hmm, I never knew it would still do storms during this. Let me get with Spencer if there is a work around.

Not really a workaround, but it will be in the next update for sure.

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burtbollinger

Lighting with the light off....I mean, after the main lights time out....It will be 1AM or something and I'll be awoken by bright flashing lightning in an otherwise dark tank. After lights out for the night, have the storm mode go into sleep mode, basically.

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Does the unit still default to "off" if there's a loss of connectivity & power? Having it come up with it's "last known configuration" and clock set via NTP would mitigate one of my one potential grips (note: has not prevented me from getting one). :)

 

or does the Bluefish not have a nonvolatile storage option for configuration settings?

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Lighting with the light off....I mean, after the main lights time out....It will be 1AM or something and I'll be awoken by bright flashing lightning in an otherwise dark tank. After lights out for the night, have the storm mode go into sleep mode, basically.

 

First time I saw this I thought it was a dream haha. Til I was somewhat awake and it happened again.

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burtbollinger

 

First time I saw this I thought it was a dream haha. Til I was somewhat awake and it happened again.

 

my first thought when i was scared awake was poltergeist.

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jedimasterben

or does the Bluefish not have a nonvolatile storage option for configuration settings?

It doesn't, it has to connect and download its settings each time power is lost.

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