Okay, fine! (Fusion 20)

[Tamberav]

Wrasses do play dead!

 

On reef2reef, they say that wrasse's don't do well with CP though.

 

http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/chloroquine-phosphate.192309/

[Mariaface]

Wrasses do play dead!

 

On reef2reef, they say that wrasse's don't do well with CP though.

 

http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/chloroquine-phosphate.192309/

 

 

Yehp - looks like an issue with flasher and fairy wrasses, but for each person I've found warning against it I've found two saying they got many different kinds through it. The ones that perished usually fell in those two categories, and I have yet to hear about a possum wrasse or wetmorella (specifically, anyway) dying specifically because of it.

 

That being said, I'm keeping an eye on him every hour. If this doesn't work out, I'm skipping copper and going to hypo.

 

 

 

 

Hour 2: Still fine. Or as fine as you can be when you and your two roommates are covered in parasites?

[Tamberav]

 

Hour 2: Still fine. Or as fine as you can be when you and your two roommates are covered in parasites?

 

 

Lol! How long you plan on treating for? and what dosage did you use? I just started an angelfish and damsel on CP today. Went with 10mg/L and thinking maybe 30 days?

[Mariaface]

 

 

Lol! How long you plan on treating for? and what dosage did you use? I just started an angelfish and damsel on CP today. Went with 10mg/L and thinking maybe 30 days?

 

I went with 15mg/L since it really isn't preventative at this point. Assuming this little guy doesn't start acting like I'm murdering him, I was thinking 28-31 days. Otherwise, I'll have to figure something else out.

 

And reading up on hypo, considering evap in a small tank, maybe TTM is my best bet? This is so confusing. :c

[Tamberav]

 

I went with 15mg/L since it really isn't preventative at this point. Assuming this little guy doesn't start acting like I'm murdering him, I was thinking 28-31 days. Otherwise, I'll have to figure something else out.

 

And reading up on hypo, considering evap in a small tank, maybe TTM is my best bet? This is so confusing. :c

 

I may bump mine up to 15mg/L if they do well. From what I could gather 10mg/L works too but 15mg/L works faster.

 

Can you get a lid for the QT for evap? Maybe even just a piece of acrylic?

[Mariaface]

 

I may bump mine up to 15mg/L if they do well. From what I could gather 10mg/L works too but 15mg/L works faster.

 

Can you get a lid for the QT for evap? Maybe even just a piece of acrylic?

 

Standard 10-gal glass lid With a sliver open for air (I'm talking 1/8"; there are neon gobies inside), and the internal filter's spray bar bending the surface.

[metrokat]

FWIW I feed medicated foods like Dr G's. You cannot really control how much they eat or how much medicine they ingest but it's better than nothing. I lost my female rhomboid to prazipro. Wrasses are quite sensitive to medication.

[Mariaface]

FWIW I feed medicated foods like Dr G's. You cannot really control how much they eat or how much medicine they ingest but it's better than nothing. I lost my female rhomboid to prazipro. Wrasses are quite sensitive to medication.

 

NLS ick shield seems to turn them off pellets altogether. :c Right now they're getting Hikari micro pellets (won't eat omega one or NLS yet) and Doc's egg brew, which isn't helping on the medication front. I'll have to look into Dr G's. The active ingredient for their anti-parasitic caviar is CP as well, hmmm..

 

This little guy held up to the PraziPro being in the water, but his poop definitely wasn't a dust this morning. May need to do that again, or pick up medicated food.

 

As of now, he's hanging out on the filter like he normally does. Fingers crossed? If he's spent the day in the medication, hopefully he's still doing okay in the morning.

[Tamberav]

FWIW I feed medicated foods like Dr G's. You cannot really control how much they eat or how much medicine they ingest but it's better than nothing. I lost my female rhomboid to prazipro. Wrasses are quite sensitive to medication.

 

ugh, that sucks about the wrasse. I am thinking about doing a rhomboid so that is good to know. Not sure how the hell I would treat it for anything then since apparently they are sensitive to CP, copper, prazi, and tank transfers.

[metrokat]

 

ugh, that sucks about the wrasse. I am thinking about doing a rhomboid so that is good to know. Not sure how the hell I would treat it for anything then since apparently they are sensitive to CP, copper, prazi, and tank transfers.

An observation QT is what is best. If the fish is sick no point infecting other fish.

Tank transfer method would work for ick, and fresh water dip for flukes and in case of heavy ick infestation to clear their gills temporarily.

I feel awful that my female died because of prazi. I panicked after that and cut short the QT for the male. Glad I did.

[Tamberav]

An observation QT is what is best. If the fish is sick no point infecting other fish.

Tank transfer method would work for ick, and fresh water dip for flukes and in case of heavy ick infestation to clear their gills temporarily.

I feel awful that my female died because of prazi. I panicked after that and cut short the QT for the male. Glad I did.

 

Yeah, flasher/fairy just seem to stress out easy but TT would be a better option over meds.

[Mariaface]

And they're still okay!

 

Did a teeny, 1gal water change to siphon out the mess at the bottom of the tank, then added meds. We'll see how they do at full strength now, I guess?

 

I also removed the spare filter floss pieces sitting around, as well as the filter floss in the filter itself (replaced that). Dosed microbacter again.

 

 

 

EDIT 8/30:

 

Still swimming and happy! Everyone’s more active, all but one or two blemishes that seem parasitic (and some very slightly ragged-towards-the-ends fins on the gobies, though those look better already). The possum’s still scared of me and likes to hide when I’m in the basement, so I can’t quite tell if he’s picking at the pellets as soon as I leave. They’re always gone when I come back, but who knows how much the gobies can put away..

And when I moved one of the pieces of PVC, he cruised around normally for a minute or two (eyes totally clear, moving in little flicks like he's well aware that I'm watching), sped up to swim behind the filter, came back around when I stepped away and settled for hiding on the opposite end of the tank again.

[StinkyBunny]

OK, couple of things to cover here:

 

1- Prazi should be started VERY low for wrasses if it is to be used. If I have an issue I drop to 1/3 the dose, they're VERY sensitive to heavy metals or anything out of the ordinary. If there's an issue in a system, wrasses will let you know about it in short order.

 

2- Feeding pellets to a newly imported fish isn't a good thing, PERIOD. I use mysis, black worm, gut loaded brine and my own food. You have to get them eating well to get their immune system back to fighting trim. Without this, you're chasing your tail. If you want to train them to pellets it should come a few weeks later after they've recovered. You have to realize that they were staved for 3-4 days before they were shipped so they need all the food you can get them to eat. They're only used to live foods, it's all they know and it will take time to train them over.

 

3- Flasher wrasses are a HUGE pain in the ass. They ship like crap and they recover from shipping stress very slowly.

[Mariaface]

OK, couple of things to cover here:

 

1- Prazi should be started VERY low for wrasses if it is to be used. If I have an issue I drop to 1/3 the dose, they're VERY sensitive to heavy metals or anything out of the ordinary. If there's an issue in a system, wrasses will let you know about it in short order.

 

2- Feeding pellets to a newly imported fish isn't a good thing, PERIOD. I use mysis, black worm, gut loaded brine and my own food. You have to get them eating well to get their immune system back to fighting trim. Without this, you're chasing your tail. If you want to train them to pellets it should come a few weeks later after they've recovered. You have to realize that they were staved for 3-4 days before they were shipped so they need all the food you can get them to eat. They're only used to live foods, it's all they know and it will take time to train them over.

 

3- Flasher wrasses are a HUGE pain in the ass. They ship like crap and they recover from shipping stress very slowly.

 

 

Thanks!

 

Prazi's not being used right now, but he took to it when I used it before. I'll keep it in mind and do half a dose per day if I need it again, which I might - I saw stringy poop.

 

They're eating pellets, Doc's eco eggs (or whatever it's called), and PE Mysis/calanus - I am feeding the pellets pretty often, though, so I'll switch over to the frozen with HUFA and vitamin supplements some more! The wrasse is still swimming strong, if like a hummingbird, and while I'm watching he only pecks at the pellets that pass by him and look interesting. Maybe I can get a ride to AF and pick up blackworms for him!

 

Is wetmorella included in that group? He's getting through this like a champ, from what I can tell, compared to flasher/fairy wrasses.

[Mariaface]

Diver's Den.

Freshwater section.

I gotta.

[StinkyBunny]

At best Maria, they're 4 days with no food. They're hungry, but pellets are alien to them. I usually find that some mysis in the flow of a powerhead/wavemaker will trigger picky asses to eat.

[Mariaface]

At best Maria, they're 4 days with no food. They're hungry, but pellets are alien to them. I usually find that some mysis in the flow of a powerhead/wavemaker will trigger picky asses to eat.

 

 

Well, bad news ;~; And it's likely all my fault - I'm not going to blame the basement overhaul (new drywall, sanding, painting).

 

The cool kids at MACNA know that the wrasse made it to Friday (Thursday night?) before it passed away. And I feel like a jerk, because they had CP almost ten days at that point. Maybe I would've been able to get him into the main tank and healthy, and at least somewhat ich free (I didn't leave the new rocks fallow 90 days, what guarantee do I have anyway?).

 

The neon gobies were fat, active, swimming, through MACNA and after I got back. I did have the EHEIM auto feeder on, and even though I had it on half of the lowest setting, maybe it overfed? They were still active and swimming around when I got back, and I didn't notice anything odd until Wednesday when they were perching more than swimming and not chasing each other. This Thursday night I noticed one of them was oddly skinny, and debated moving them into the main tank. Of course, I figured 'finish the CP meds first'. Friday morning they were both dead.

 

Honestly, this is kind of heart-breaking, and I'm not entirely sure I'm ready to try again until I have a better system in place. Larger quantity of medicine so that I have no qualms about doing twice-weekly water changes (maybe even 100%) with medicated water, smaller PVC hiding places to begin with, much better food so I'm not stressing about getting to AF to find black worms or something... And of course, not taking a vacation in the middle of it. For now, the quarantine tank is disassembled, rinsed, and drying out before I repeat the process with bleach later. And if I do decide to try again, I'll stick to the neon goby pair, and/or get a second juvenile clown for this monster. No finicky fish until I've proved I have a handle on basic ones, right?

 

That being said, say hello to the most expensive pom pom crab ever. He grew his second pom pom!

 

These are all post-MACNA, pre water change photos, of course.

 

The clam, through the glass and at an angle because that's what phones are for:

 

Spongodes encrusting over the epoxy:

 

Bright green ricordea florida looking cute, with bubble algae for decoration:

 

The palys and their super annoying algae:

 

The RFA:

 

Blastos:

 

This florida wasn't happy with me and floated off to another rock:

 

Trumpets fell off the back frag rack (I lost a magnet in the rear chambers so it's on the frag tree now), along with a couple others:

 

The peppermint shrimp and a few dusters:

 

Cool looking algae that hitchhiked in:

 

 

And of course, MACNA:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

...Yeah. It was pretty great.

[Orangutran]

I hope there's alcohol in that drink!

[Mariaface]

I hope there's alcohol in that drink!

 

 

There was! But it wasn't a malibu bay breeze

[StinkyBunny]

Those wrasses come from The Philippines, it could have been cyanide. Without a liver biopsy, you'll never know. Sorry about the loss.

[Mariaface]

Those wrasses come from The Philippines, it could have been cyanide. Without a liver biopsy, you'll never know. Sorry about the loss.

 

In that case: Easy and captive bred fish for me!

 

So I guess it could've been CP, overfeeding, paint fumes or drywall dust without carbon running, cyanide, other stress... Yikes.

[holy carp]

Sorry about losing the fishies.

 

+1 on captive bred if it is a possibility for the breed, but I wouldn't say to forgo the fish you want if they are only available wild-caught...

 

Now get back up on that horse!

[Mariaface]

Huh. Speaking of better preparing for future quarantine, Amazon has NLS's CP powder for $11 instead of $25. Hopefully the shelf life will last up to six months in the dark and sealed.

[Mariaface]

Went to DR this weekend. Came back and nothing died, so that's good!

 

But my lunch today is soup and dayquil. Less good.

 

Who knows, maybe there'll be time for pictures tomorrow!

[Astinus]

Hope u feel/get better soon, Maria!