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RollaJase's Trip Off the Deep End - Custom Rimless 55G


RollaJase

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Really, J?

I wish my tank looked as crappy as yours!

 

Them 'Roos are crazy.............can you smuggle me over a Lil' Joey?

I'll send you a new light of your choice.

Deal.

  • Like 4
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Really, J?

I wish my tank looked as crappy as yours!

 

Them 'Roos are crazy.............can you smuggle me over a Lil' Joey?

I'll send you a new light of your choice.

Deal.

Haha, beauty is in the eye of the beholder I guess Jack. I'm happy with how things are progressing now that things are all back on track. Definitely some room for improvement though ;). I'll see what I can do about the joey ;), I'll accept a 4 bulb, 24" ATI Sunpower as payment haha.

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Beautiful tank photos, your zoa garden looks like it's doing quite well. Of course I like the SPS island you have going on too, that green slimer? piece is funny looking, looks like a large screw or something hahah. :P

 

Beautiful pictures of the farm & vineyard as well, what kind of impact do the kangaroos have on the vineyard from foraging?

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Beautiful tank photos, your zoa garden looks like it's doing quite well. Of course I like the SPS island you have going on too, that green slimer? piece is funny looking, looks like a large screw or something hahah. :P

 

Beautiful pictures of the farm & vineyard as well, what kind of impact do the kangaroos have on the vineyard from foraging?

Thank you very much :). I've always had great success with the zoas and initially I wanted this tank to be SPS/LPS only but I am really quite fond of the collection of zoas I have put together over the few years and just couldn't part with them :). The SPS island is what I really built this tank for, more water, more light, more stable, just what the SPS ordered. Now I just need to get my lighting situation sorted and I can ramp up my SPS acquisition. I'm not entirely sure if it is a green slimer but it is definitely a stag of some kind. When I picked it up it was quite pointed but it started to STN from the tip so I broke it off. The wound has healed over now and the base is finally starting to slowly grow down towards the mounting epoxy. The body has got quite a few raised nodules on it now also so I hope it starts to branch out soon.

 

So far Kangaroos haven't caused any damage that we have noticed. They seem to just graze on the grasses that grow down the middle of each row. Although, it will be interesting to see what they do when there is fruit on the vines. They will probably end up causing more damage to the dripper lines than anything else as they tend to hop through the rows rather than down them. Wild rabbits and hares tend to do more damage, particularly on young vines as they ring bark the shoots which can cause death or disease to the vine.

  • Like 2
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Lovey tank mate. looks like a lovely farm too. Where abouts you located?

Thanks mate :). We are located in Balhannah in the Adelaide Hills Wine Region, about a 35-40min drive up the freeway from the Adelaide CBD.

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Another round of LED diagnosis.

 

I went through and triple chased all cables before powering the light on. All cables and connections were perfect however, when I turned the light on only the blues would work.I was fiddling with a few things and noticed the BF mini's lights would flicker and go out. I would apply a bit of pressure to the connector and it would power on and then would drop out again. Looks like there may be an issue with the breakout from the connector on the BF mini to the driver board. If this is the case it could be the reason why some of the strings don't work. I always seem to do my playing around after lights out so when the BF mini connects the light percentages are at 0 so if there is an issue with this connection it could be hindering my testing. I didn't have time to delve into this further tonight but I did remove the BF mini and it looks like the connector between the driver board and the BF mini was separating (it's made out of 2 pieces). I'll look at this in a little more depth over the next few days. Towards the end of last week I replaced the 10k resistor under the LDD driver on channel 1, 2 and 5 just to be safe. If there is in fact an issue with the connection between the LDD and the driver board this could have been for naught but for piece of mind it was worth it I think.

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pappadumplingz

Another round of LED diagnosis.

 

I went through and triple chased all cables before powering the light on. All cables and connections were perfect however, when I turned the light on only the blues would work.I was fiddling with a few things and noticed the BF mini's lights would flicker and go out. I would apply a bit of pressure to the connector and it would power on and then would drop out again. Looks like there may be an issue with the breakout from the connector on the BF mini to the driver board. If this is the case it could be the reason why some of the strings don't work. I always seem to do my playing around after lights out so when the BF mini connects the light percentages are at 0 so if there is an issue with this connection it could be hindering my testing. I didn't have time to delve into this further tonight but I did remove the BF mini and it looks like the connector between the driver board and the BF mini was separating (it's made out of 2 pieces). I'll look at this in a little more depth over the next few days. Towards the end of last week I replaced the 10k resistor under the LDD driver on channel 1, 2 and 5 just to be safe. If there is in fact an issue with the connection between the LDD and the driver board this could have been for naught but for piece of mind it was worth it I think.

In English pls

  • Like 2
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In English pls

Connection between the LED controller and the board where everything connects to seems to be loose, making me think everything is more busted than it really is lol. I really hope this is the case but I'll be kicking myself for wasting so much time on a simple fix.

  • Like 2
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jedimasterben

I wouldn't worry about replacing the 10K resistors for testing purposes - if they're shot, it just means the light will go to 100% when there is no PWM input, that would make that channel super easy to test :D

 

Do you have any jumper wires, like these? https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-120pcs-Multicolored-Breadboard-arduino/dp/B01EV70C78/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1470141490&sr=8-3&keywords=arduino+wire Then you would be able to remove the BF Mini connector completely and connect them right to the channels to test. Just make sure the BF Mini has power and then put it in photo mode through the app. :)

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I wouldn't worry about replacing the 10K resistors for testing purposes - if they're shot, it just means the light will go to 100% when there is no PWM input, that would make that channel super easy to test :D

 

Do you have any jumper wires, like these? https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-120pcs-Multicolored-Breadboard-arduino/dp/B01EV70C78/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1470141490&sr=8-3&keywords=arduino+wire Then you would be able to remove the BF Mini connector completely and connect them right to the channels to test. Just make sure the BF Mini has power and then put it in photo mode through the app. :)

I only replaced the resistors as I had a driver do a slow pop so figured while I had the iron on the table I would just swap out the 3 channels. I ordered enough to swap out each channel twice if I had to lol. I don't have any jumper leads like that but I'll take a look on eBay and see if I can get a set of the male to female ones locally. I fiddled with the connector that was supplied with the driver board and I think I can see the issue. It looks like the connections wiggled themselves apart enough to cause some of the connections to break. The adapter itself is a little short so if you knock the BF mini at all it can pull itself from the board. A bit of super glue between the two parts of the connector should keep things snug.

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Just ordered a 40 pack of the male to female jumper leads locally. $3.20 delivered isn't half bad, kinda wish it were 'tree fiddy'.

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Damn. Sorry to hear about the LED issues. You are way outta my league fixing that stuff. Good luck

Thanks man. The LEDs have been an ongoing saga for the last 3 months or so, mainly due to my laziness. Not overly difficult to fix but I hate the disappointment of just burning out drivers lol. Looks like I am on the final stretch though, hope I can sort everything out soon and start using this beast of a light again.

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Fingers crossed! fingerscrossed

Thanks teeny :).

 

 

Looks like my battery backup for the DC-3000 showed up today so I'll be able to have a play with it over the weekend. My new dosing line holder arrived earlier this week also so I can fix up the ghetto zip tie solution I'm using now as I currently have too many dosing lines and not enough space on the current holder. I should really get around to ordering a spare DC-3000 pump now also, maybe after next pay. I was just going to order a new controller but when they are $25AUD and the pump is about $110AUD I may as well just get the pump as it gives me not only a spare pump but also a spare controller and power pack. Seeing as the original blue Jebao DC series is becoming harder to find as the DCT and DCS series takes over it is probably something I should do sooner rather than later. I'm not overly interested in spending $180 for the coral box module to make the pump wireless just to use the battery on a newer generation pump.

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Well, I got to work early today and started looking online at ways to unnecessarily spend money (as you do). Considering replacing both the RW-4's with a Gyre XF130 or one of the Jebao knock offs. I was looking at a gyre for this tank originally but went down the route of the RW-4's as I got a great deal on them and the reviews were pretty positive. I'm kinda wishing I got the next size up in the RW family as I am running them over 50% and they are pretty loud, particularly when pulsing in sync. Not that they have gotten louder with time, jsut louder as I have had to increase the speed over time as the sand settled in and stopped blowing around. I was thinking I could place the Gyre running across the top right of the tank circulating water directly to the left rock structure and then down across the sand bed towards the zoa garden.

 

What do you guys think? I'll probably end up running the RW-4's into the ground and then going down this path but I like to think about these things in advance.

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I'd go for the gyre - although it's not my money so of course I'd say go for it. :) I've never had experience with those pumps but I only hear good things. Plus I'm always for less equipment in the DT.

 

I hope you get that light sorted out soon! Tank is looking great, we need more pics of it

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You wont get random flow with gyre. My LPS sways in the same direction. Unless you hook it up to Apex.

You could really say the same thing about the RW-4's though but I guess you do have flow coming from 2 directions which is a bonus. Hmm, perhaps i'll investigate the Tunze DC models, I have no intention of going back to Ecotech, over priced IMO for linear flow only.

 

I'd go for the gyre - although it's not my money so of course I'd say go for it. :) I've never had experience with those pumps but I only hear good things. Plus I'm always for less equipment in the DT.

 

I hope you get that light sorted out soon! Tank is looking great, we need more pics of it

Less equipment in the tank is always a good thing although I do think cords are much more tolerable in larger tanks than nano tanks. At the moment I only have 2 in my tank and I'm not too fussed about that. Hmm, looks like I have a few options to consider I guess. I won't be making my mind up just yet, unless the RW-4's drop dead tomorrow so I'll keep an eye out on some bargains and maybe try and justify an early upgrade ;).

 

Thanks, so do I, the light dramas have dragged out far too long an I want to bathe my corals in NB LED goodness once more haha. I will definitely be doing a larger, more in depth update soon. I recently picked up a tripod so want to try out some macro shots with it before doing an update on the equipment. I have bought and changed some things since originally setting up the tank that I have documented in words but not in pictures :).

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Trading in a heap of zoa frags in this coming weekend for a few nice new pieces :). Finally found myself some interesting plating monties. Got a nice pale green with blue polyps on hold and a piece of a red plating monti should be available in the next few weeks :). The green and blue one looks similar to this one:

http://cdn.orafarm.com/media/bluepolycap.jpg

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pappadumplingz

Trading in a heap of zoa frags in this coming weekend for a few nice new pieces :). Finally found myself some interesting plating monties. Got a nice pale green with blue polyps on hold and a piece of a red plating monti should be available in the next few weeks :). The green and blue one looks similar to this one:

http://cdn.orafarm.com/media/bluepolycap.jpg

You know, if you have any Noice zoa frags you happened to not need, I'm willing to adopt them

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You know, if you have any Noice zoa frags you happened to not need, I'm willing to adopt them

My next lot will be going to a friend who is setting up a small 20L before building his 100G system but I'm always looking for buyers ;), some of mine grow like weeds. Not overly keen on shipping them though, our postal system is just woeful and couriers want a kidney as payment for overnight door to door.

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