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About RollaJase

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    Jase - Aussie Reefer
  • Birthday 04/07/1991

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    Interested in cars, reefing, music and technology.
  1. Definitely is, I've already got a short list of tanks i'm interested in. Finding it hard to choose something though as I have pretty specific wants which most stands don't accommodate. Would like to avoid a custom system this time around. Thanks for stopping by 😊. The digi is definitely hardy, have not had such a fragile SPS piece before though. By default, corals not native to Australian waters are very expensive when they eventually get here. It is illegal to import wildlife that isn't native without particular permits and permission. If something is collected in our waters though, even though it isn't native, that is another story and does happen from time to time. At the moment Forest Fire Digi and red montipora caprocornis are fetching high prices. When they hit the market they were about $400AUD a piece, pricing has dropped considerably though over the last 6 months. Florida Rics are illegal to import for example but we get yuma's locally. Colourful specimens go for $200-$600 a polyp over here as they are few and far between in the trade, most get exported.
  2. Thank you very much 😊. I really didn't expect some of these pieces to grow as quickly as they did, I'm forever fragging bits and pieces to make more room as everything grows taller. A new, larger tank will definitely be on the cards in the not so distance future and I'll be able to break this current scape up and redistribute the colonies to better suit their growth patterns when the time comes.
  3. Haha, thanks Mark. All of these photos were taken in full manual mode. White Balance was set at 10,000k, ISO between 100 and 200, F between f3.5 and f5.6 (my lens is average) and shutter speed between 1/15 and 1/100. Depending where the coral is in my tank and the zoom settings on my lens I need to adjust ISO and shutter speed to compliment the fstop my lens forces. It takes trial and error but is pretty easy to grasp. I recommend starting with a lower ISO (100 or 200) and then fiddling with the other settings so you can see how they change the outcome of the pictures. Also block as many other light sources around the tank as you can and crank up the light. I shut my blinds, close the door and turn off room lights and switch my light to my peak/midday setting. I've just purchased a fixed f1.7 lens which will arrive this week, it will help greatly, especially with shooting fish and moving corals. These pics could still do with some touch-ups by nowhere near as much work as it would be with my previous go to settings anyway. Oh no, that sucks mate, sorry to hear. It's never easy dealing with a loss, especially one of that magnitude. I've had good experiences with mandarins, never had an issue getting them to eat prepared foods. My wrasses smash my pods as they like to graze so I've always had a visually poor population during the day, at night though I can see some crawling on the glass once the wrasses go to sleep. When you are trying to get them to eat frozen foods I've found a garlic supplement helps get them to consider the food. I find killing the circulation pumps really helps as they like to scope the food out and actively hunt it in the water column. Start with frozen brine mixed with some frozen rotifers/pods/lobster eggs with a garlic agent to get them interested, it will take them a while but the longest it has taken me to get them eating is roughly 2 weeks. It really helps if the particular fish is relatively healthy when you pick it up or has been in the holding take for a while. if it has survived a few weeks to a month in a holding tank with minimal food/pods chances are it has already attempted to eat frozen. Lastly, both of mine love the Hikari seaweed extreme pellets in the small size. I feed these to my tang and my blenny, once they settle and soften up a bit both my mandarins like to pick them off the sand bed. Hope that helps! πŸ˜ƒ.
  4. Thanks buddy 😁, growth has been pretty crazy over the last 3-4 months. I'm taking frags every week or so. How are things with you? Thank you very much! Everything is really starting to fill in, the left island is pretty much full, i'm just waiting for the right island to fill in now. I made the mistake of placing things too close together... That's the male Mandy, he is very fat and eats everything I throw at him (frozen, pellets, pods). The female is pretty fat too but mainly because the two of them attempt to spawn every other night, still haven't quite got the hang of it yet haha. Thank you very much. I think my photos are improving, got a long way to go through.
  5. Tank Update - 26th September 2018: Its been a very long time between drinks! Since the last update I've been to Sydney for the inaugural ReefStock Australia (picking up a few nice pieces, I had a week away in Bali and the tank has just been cruising along. To be honest, very little effort has gone into the tank as everything is just running great! Only major changes over the months has been a replacement of my ATO to what is effectively an Australian licensed version of the Smart ATO. Besides that, I've made a few minor tweaks to filtration and have continued to go further down the rabbit hole with Trace Element dosing. Here are some pictures from September, all images are as they were when they came off the camera, (I've been practicing πŸ˜…).
  6. Tank Update - 9th May 2018: With a week of annual leave booked I figured I owed you all an update. Tank has been going amazingly well since the last update with an explosion of growth and colour. I've had a few losses and headaches along the way but nothing too serious. First up, two new FTS. The first being from the 26th March and the second being from the 8th May. The most noticeable changes being the change in scape and the green monti that was growing up the overflow. Late February/early march I decided to move the rocks out from under the monti in order to give me more rock directly under the lights for some SPS pieces. This worked great, effectively giving me a second rock island on the right side of the tank exclusivity for SPS. It also gave me a larger, calmer area in the back right corner for LPS to chill out and not get hassled by strong current. This worked well for a while until my largest trachy decided it wasn't happy and slowly started to die. After monitoring it for a week or so it looked like it was recovering only to spew out its guts while I was at work. I cam home to a large chunk of the monti dead thanks to the stinging cells of the trachy. The trachy was removed from the wall and surgery commenced to remove the dead piece and prevent any further die off. After the monti was mounted back on the wall (a little lower this time) everything went well for a month or so until I noticed it dying from the inside out. The piece was removed again and unfortunately had to be broken into several pieces to remove the dead piece and to inspect for any Monti eating Nudis (no Nudis thank God!) This happened towards the end of April and so far there has been no signs of anything getting worse, just lots of new growth and healing wounds. As I had the week off I decided to dedicate a good 1-2 days (resulted being almost 4 days 😐) to give the tank a really good clean, clean out the sump and replace/upgrade some hardware. I ordered some custom dosing vessels to fit my stand which resulted in me needing to drain the sump so I could slide it back roughly 5mm and to the right roughly 10mm. This took all bloody day but the result was just what I was after. I also decided to upgrade the pump in my protein skimmer to the Jecod DCA-2000. These pumps have a new controller which can have a float valve connected to cut power to the pump if water rises or falls below a certain level. Perfect if you have concerns with your skimmer overflowing (I've had this issue before). I needed to make a mounting bracket as the new controller is much larger than the one that comes with the DC or DCS pumps. I used some old acrylic sheet that I had laying around, bonded two pieces together for extra rigidity and mounted it to the stand. The float switch works perfectly, I highly recommend this upgrade to anyone looking for a little more security with their skimmer. As for new additions to the tank, I picked up a female mandarin to partner with my male mandarin. Both are eating frozen foods which is great and both are happy and healthy. The female came from a local reefer who is attempting to breed them in captivity. He had two many females and needed more males so I got a pretty good deal on the female already eating frozen foods. It was love at first sight (for her anyway), she is completely infatuated with the male. She follows him around all the time which he tolerates but does flare up and chase her away from time to time. He has never attached her (which was my fear) but I don't think they will be spawning any time soon. Here are a few pics of the new girl. And some pics of the male. Coral wise, as I mentioned in my previous post I picked up some nice new frags from a local reefer and more recently picked up another few. The highlight was managing to get my hands on a piece of Forest Fire Montipora Digitata. This piece is very rare over here and commands a high price, I managed to get a great deal from a local reefer on a piece not even 10mm long. This piece has doubled in size since I got it. Pieces like this typically sell for $400AUD plus, the reefer I got it from was one of the first in the country to get a piece and paid well over double that for something of similar size. As with everything though, they are becoming more readily accessible as people are having success with them, prices are dropping and each generation is getting hardier. Other pieces I've picked up have been a Purple Millepora, Green Millepora, Purple Montipora Denae, Green with Blue Polyps Montipora Denae, Red Plating Montipora, what looks to be a Garf Bonsai or similar and an interesting pinkish/red with blue tip piece. And some random shots for you, enjoy 😊.
  7. So on the O2 board you have the jumper pins as per below. The 'channel select' and 'channel gang' are the ones you want, the above picture is how mine came as standard. Basically what you do is set them up as per below. So, Channel Select directly relates to the channels on the BF mini, removing a jumper means the BF mini's signal won reach that channel therefore the LDD drivers won't output any signal (when an LDD gets power but no PWM you get no output). In my case, I've removed the channel select jumpers for channel 2 and 4. Then what you do is jump 1 pair of the channel gang pins between the two channels. In my case this is a jump between channel 1 and 2 and between channel 3 and 4. What this does is send the PWM signal from channel 1 through channel 1 and 2 and the PWM signal from channel 3 through channel 3 and 4. Then it's as simple as logging into the BF Mini, navigating to settings/lighting/channel settings and in my instance clicking on channel 2 and channel 4 and turning off 'display channel'. This removes channel 2 and 4 from view so it doesn't clutter anything up. I didn't bother with a separate moonlight channel, I just use the night settings and have my blues on at 1%. As for swapping drivers and such, off the top of my head I can't remember how to calculate the driver requirements for the number of diodes. I was basically given a shopping list and went out and got what I needed (shopping list was not from Dave). The board you have is the same or similar as what Dave uses in his fixtures. The drivers are just scaled based on the LED requirements.Based on the image on Dave's website of the retro kit it looks like the drivers he is using are as follows. White/Mint = LDD 300H (power comes into white, jumped to mint and then goes to white on other array and jumped to mint) Royal Blue = LDD 700H (power comes into royal blue on one array and then goes to the other array) Cyan = LDD 500H (power comes into cyan on one array and then goes to the other array) Violet = LDD 500H (power comes into violet on one array and then goes to the other array) Moonlight = LDD 300H Cyan and Violet will be fine running 4 arrays off the 500H drivers (I have 6 arrays on a 700H for each channel). The White will definitely need to be upgraded to a 700H and I'd say the Blue may need to go to a 1000H if that is supported. Without doing the math I can't be 100% sure. @DaveFason or possibly @jedimasterben would have to comment here.
  8. Yes, the wave surfer effectively has the same effect as turning the power on/off with a smart powerboard. The advantage of the controller is that you have finer control of how it turns on/off. In all honesty, if it were me, by the time you buy voyager nano and get a smart powerboard or the wave surfer you are better off looking at a Jebao/Jecod PP4 pump which will do everything you want straight out of the box (with the exception of being able to turn the pump off for long periods of time).
  9. Hey Harry, yep, definitely been doing some catching up, got something like 80 threads to get through haha. By 'Trace Elements' i'm referring to a trace element program. The Red Sea Coral Colours program is one you may be familiar with, ATI have one also and you could classify Zeovit, Aquaforest and Triton as being an all inclusive trace plan. The picture doesn't do the colour too much justice, those growth tips are purple, not the greyish colour they come across as. I'm using one of two trace element packages made in Australia. The one i'm using is called Coral Essentials by Sustainable Reefs (they grow epic SPS frags) and the other is called Reef Anabolics. Basically the Coral Essentials plan revolves around a Trace A, B and C solution which I add to my Randy's Alk, Cal and Mag (A and B into Cal and C into Alk). It gets dosed daily along with my standard consumption. In addition to this I'm also using their Amino and Vitamin mix as well as Bromide and Boron solutions. They are about to release a trio of other solutions which increase PE, increase colour and increase metabolism. These new solutions are meant to take colour to a further heightened level. More details on this system below. http://www.coralessentials.com.au/ I looked into a lot of the systems before deciding which was best for me. The deciding factor for me was the cost. Coral Essentials only costs me $20AUD a bottle for Trace A, B and C and $25AUD a bottle for Aminos, Boron and Bromide. This is significantly cheaper than Zeovit/Aquaforest and I don't need to buy any additional hardware. The other deciding factor was that it is made by hobbyists, not a large corporation. The guys behind it have been delivering top shelf SPS pieces for years and have been using these solutions for faster growth and better colour. The system is also easy to get into, I started with just Trace A, B and C and started adding additional components as I've seen the need for them. Not saying this system is the best for you (the other programs are significantly cheap in the US then here in Aus) but a similar system may be worth looking into. Coral Essentials is coming to the US though, I believe some samples have already been sent out to a few wholesalers and stores for feedback.
  10. I'm not using Dave's driver board, I'm using one by O2 Surplus (who is a member here and on RTR etc.). This driver board has 6 channels and has jumpers that allow you to link channels together so they can be controlled as 1 from the BF Mini. For example, instead of me having duplicate channels in the BF Mini I only see 4. Channel 1 and 2 are for whites, the BF sees these as one channel, same as channel 3 and 4 which are my royal blue channel. I'm not sure if Dave's board has this functionality but for 2 arrays, potentially upgrading to 4 arrays Dave's board shouldn't cause you any issues short of needing to upgrade a few of the drivers (which are plug and play). May be best to send an email through the Nano-Box website if you are looking for a quick response.
  11. Yeah fair point. I might see if my brother can hook me up with a good flight/accommodation deal. He is a travel agent so should be able to get me a pretty good deal if I go ahead.
  12. Yes, the Voyager Nano is an AC pump. As far as i'm aware, the only Sicce powerheads that are DC are the XStream-E range which come with an integrated controller. Sicce would be referring to their Wave Surfer controller that lets you pulse between two pumps, creating a tidal effect. Even their Wave Surfer only has the ability to switch between the two outlets for a maximum of 5 mins per socket which is far more frequent then the 4 times per day they have mentioned to you. This type of control is something the DC pumps like the Jecod/Jebao, Ecotech, Maxspect etc. provide as standard. I don't believe any pump short of the Ecotech ecosystem of products with reeflink have the ability to turn pumps off completely at different times of the day. It all comes down to the type of effect you are wanting to get. If you are wanting to set the pump to pulse on/off multiple times a minute then a DC pump like the Jecod PP (PP4 being the smallest) series or a Vortech are your best option for longevity in a smaller tank. Doing this with a standard AC pump like the voyager nano or lower end Tunze pumps will see them prematurely wear out. If your intention is to have the pump turn on/off a few times a day then a powerboard like the one you posted above will do the trick but you also have to contend with whatever else may be attached turning on/off also if it malfunctions or if it doesn't have control over individual sockets.
  13. The tank looks amazing Harry, really well done. I'm glad to see you got over the issues you were having and you are starting to get some really big colonies in there. If you are wanting to take your colours to the next level and aren't already dosing trace elements, that's the way I'd be recommending you look. Even with my higher nitrates at the time, dosing a trace elements mix really took my colour and growth elements to a whole new level. The below image is pretty much a fresh frag that was mounted a few weeks prior to the left picture being taken, the right picture is 1 month on. Hard to see the full impact from a side on shot but the circumference of the piece nearly doubled in this time. I've been on trace elements since about July 2017 and once I got everything dialed in my daily Alk, Cal and Mag consumption increased significantly with a big improvement in growth and colour. I'm really looking forward to seeing how this piece turns out once it encrusts properly and starts shooting upwards.
  14. I'm powering 6x V3.1 arrays off of 6x LDD 700H drivers. The white/lime channel is split over two drivers, royal blue also, violet on their own driver and cyan/blue on the last driver. Looks like Dave's retro kits use LDD 300H, 500H and 700H drivers (based on the pic on the website), this will impact your upgrade options. You may need to swap out 1 or 2 of these drivers for a larger option to get the required performance out of the arrays . Dave will be able to confirm which channels will need the drivers swapped out and can probably provide the required ones with the purchase of additional arrays. The bellow picture may be of some help to you.
  15. AC pumps do not like to be turned on/off quickly and randomly. This wears out the pump and can cause the pump to start up in reverse. DC pumps handle this much better and the ones with integrated controllers simply vary the voltage instead of turning the power on/off at random to get different flow patterns etc. Those sort of power boards are only really good to allow you to turn equipment on/off at different times of the day for example or for maintenance where the power board is hard to get to.
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