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tibbsy07 IM10


tibbsy07

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+1. Just one warning on the bleach - make sure you use regular plain old bleach. The non-spill kind is more common now and it has detergent additives. Bad bad bad. No amount of rinsing and Prime will make it safe again. I got so paranoid that I stopped regenerating and just bought bigger bottles of Purigen. Which of course defeats the whole point. I'd feel a lot better using Peroxide if they would just give a straight answer.

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I just use the regular old bleach. Cheap, effective, no additives. I specifically seek it out. I don't even like the other stuff for household cleaning.

 

Here is there latest reply "We recommend bleach in a diluted solution due to the fact that this is the only oxidizing blend that has been rigorously tested and is approved for use to oxidize organics from the media without compromising the integrity of the media itself. Hydrogen Peroxide could compromise the media, or may not fully oxidize off the organics of the media rendering it less effective. "

 

Not a great answer, but kind of what I expected based on their last reply. Basically they haven't really tested hydrogen peroxide, so they can't recommend it. Plus they make and sell prime, so that seems in line with using bleach to regenerate purigen. I'll probably stick with bleach/prime for now.

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jedimasterben

If I had access to better microscopes then it would be something I'd definitely test out, that way we could see the individual pieces to see how they hold up to both processes.

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If I had access to better microscopes then it would be something I'd definitely test out, that way we could see the individual pieces to see how they hold up to both processes.

Same. They exist on campus but they cost a fortune to use.

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So I have to try and figure out how to fix my PicO Skim 2.0 issue... Here is the deal:

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/350589-introducing-the-pico-skim-20/?p=4945709

 

That is what my skimmer looks like. The IM Nuvo 10 water level (recommended by IM) is too low for the PicO Skim to work. My only options are to either raise the overall water level in the rear, basically ignoring the baffle between the 2nd and 3rd chamber (skimmer chamber and return pump chamber, respectively). I started this way and it didn't seem to have any negative effect minus some oily surface water in the chambers, but I'm not sure long-term.

 

Another option would be to try and fit the skimmer on the actual baffle, the only downside being that the skimmer and it's clamp would then block the water flow from the 2nd to 3rd chamber. I'm not sure if this would cause any problems or not...

 

The third option, and I may do this, was suggested by PicO themselves, and that was to cut a small acrylic "baffle" to extend the baffle height between the 2nd and 3rd chamber so that the water level in the 2nd chamber is high enough for the PicO Skim 2.0.

 

Thoughts?

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So I didn't even need to use the dremel to make an extension baffle. I took a tip box at work that we were recycling, took the lid off and cut it to ~3"x3", expecting that I would need to cut a bit more to fit when I get home. I have extra KJ magnets, so I am going to try and use them to hold it in place (they are strong enough to go through the baffle and the acrylic piece, I believe). If not, I'll figure out another mounting option.

 

lX2nYvI.jpg

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It's crooked. :slap:

Can't take you anywhere.

:slap:

Judging from the picture he uses for his siggie, I think he is a little crooked too. :owned: Just kidding tibbsy, haha

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It's crooked. :slap:

Can't take you anywhere.

:slap:

Look, that stuff is made to go through autoclave cycles repeatedly and not melt. I also used crappy scissors and a small razor blade to try and cut it.

 

It happens to fit pretty well, and it raised the water level. I need to tinker a bit more to get it perfect.

Judging from the picture he uses for his siggie, I think he is a little crooked too. :owned: Just kidding tibbsy, haha

You have no idea ;)
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Great idea! Does it raise the water level in the display section of the tank?

Nope, just in the rear chamber so far. It's not perfect, as some water flows around the side because I forgot about the little lip that IM put in the back of the tank, so I have to readjust it and make a notch or two in the sides so that it fits better. The water level in the second chamber is higher, but the skimmer still isn't quite there yet... Not sure how to fix it. It's better, but it's not great.

 

Gorg is recovering nicely, and I placed it last night.

 

Did a 25% water change, cleaned off the spin stream and the RW-4. Swapped out the old crap filter floss for the intank stuff - it already seems like MUCH better filter floss. Also swapped out the crappy marineland carbon I was using for Seachem MatrixCarbon and a bag of purigen. I don't have an actual media basket, so I fixed the eggcrate shelf by adding a second magnet to it so it would be more stable, and then I put the purigen on it, the mediabag with carbon and a smidgen of phosguard, and the filter floss on top. Seems to work well and force water through the media, too.

 

Pictures later today.

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This hobby is kind of bad for me - I'm never happy with what I currently have sitting in my tank. I always want different coral placement, better growth, etc. Patience, patience, patience... Also I think Cousteau is dead. I haven't seen him in a week or two. He's molted a few times before and I've only missed him for a day or two. Some of the snails have died too. I hope this isn't a sign of things to come...

 

I've started dosing whiskey and bourbon, not vodka. I hate vodka. Here's my dosing scheme - I pour about 2-fingers width worth of whiskey or bourbon in a glass. Then I go over to the tank and I dose it slowly into my stomach. Takes a good while, don't want to waste any of it. Then I look at my tank, fall to my knees, cry out "WHYYYYY???", and weep. ;)

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? good one! What's your poison ? Have you ever tried Stranahan whiskey it's made right here in Colorado- pretty good stuff- ck it out if it's available in your area

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Your idea for whisky dosing sounds a lot more plausible that some people feeding expired gravy to their tank. If you need a control for your experiment. I'll volunteer. I can sit on the sofa away from my tank and dose.

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that's all ? :huh:

Well I drink it neat, so it's not displaced by anything. Also, I can't get TOO wild - who knows what I might do tank-wise? I might go crazy and order expensive stuff ;)

 

good one! What's your poison ? Have you ever tried Stranahan whiskey it's made right here in Colorado- pretty good stuff- ck it out if it's available in your area

I pretty much drink anything. Single Malt is my favorite whiskey, but if it's whiskey of any kind I'll drink it. Bourbon has been a big thing for me lately, something about being back home in the Southeast. I have not had Stranahan, haven't seen it out here. I didn't see it in Iowa or Minnesota when I lived there, either. I'll keep my eye out for it.

 

Best EVER

whiskey-3.jpg

Really?

 

Your idea for whisky dosing sounds a lot more plausible that some people feeding expired gravy to their tank. If you need a control for your experiment. I'll volunteer. I can sit on the sofa away from my tank and dose.

Ok, so give the dosing a test run or two and report back. I think the more independent verifications we can get on this new technique, the better.

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Your idea for whisky dosing sounds a lot more plausible that some people feeding expired gravy to their tank. If you need a control for your experiment. I'll volunteer. I can sit on the sofa away from my tank and dose.

I like an experiment with appropriate controls...

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NorthGaHillbilly

Whiskey dosing, now were talkin B)

 

good one! What's your poison ? Have you ever tried Stranahan whiskey it's made right here in Colorado- pretty good stuff- ck it out if it's available in your area

 

Stranahans is really something special, I really like it myself.

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Does anyone know if the storm controller can do a staggered lighting effect? Currently I have my NanoBox set to sunrise/sunset to my Lat/Long. That means I pretty much miss out on the whole dang thing because I leave before the light comes on and I return from work after sunset.

 

Here is what I'd like to do:

Switch the photo period from like 11am until 9:30pm-ish

I'd like to ramp the lights up, blue channel first, followed by the white channel about an hour in, with both being relatively low

Then I'd like them to ramp up to the most intense for like 1 hour in the middle of the cycle (like high noon) and then begin to come down

I'd like my blue to stay on "night" mode for an hour, then shut off completely. 0 light from 10:30pm until 11am (sunlight in the room will be there in the early morning)

 

Is that possible with the Storm controller or do I need something else?

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jedimasterben

The storm can only do one ramp period, not two. It also can only do a ramp of three hours, so with a 12 hour photoperiod that means the lights will be at the set peak for six hours in total. I love that Bluefish uses sinusoidal dimming.

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Ok, so last night at like 2 am, I decided to change my lighting schedule. I put on the sunrise/sunset manual setting instead of GPS location, and I have as follows:

 

Sunrise: 11:00

Sunset: 21:30

PWM Day - Channel 1: 110, Channel 2: 110

PWM Night - 0

Set Ramp Delay: Channel 1: 0, Channel 2: 45min

 

Now maybe I'll actually get to SEE my tank in action rather than just blue night lights.

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I finally got a chance to actually READ the growth conditions of the tanks here on campus for the coral research group. They are reporting Siderastrea siderea, a stony coral. Very interesting compared to what we do. A number of changes are largely because of the costs associated with what they do and they aren't growing them for a display tank, however I think there are some important bits of information for their growth. I will summarize them here.

 

When they collect the corals from the wild and frag them, they allow them to recover in recirculating 132 gallon tanks (500L). They use only instant ocean salt, as Atkinson and Bingham showed that while IO was not like natural seawater in most respects, it was the closest in trace element composition compared to 8 other major brands (Atkinson MJ, and Bingham C. 1998. J. Aquariculture Aquat. Sci.). It also costs less so that's a big plus. Every marine microbiologist I know uses it, too. Tim Wijgerde uses Tropic Marin Pro, and I'm sure that salt works and is great, but if everyone else is using IO, I'll stick with that from now on. I think TW also has something to do with Tropic Marin, so that may be why he uses it so much.

 

For acclimation, they use salinity of 35, temperature of 28 C (82.4F, which actually surprised me), and they use compact fluorescent lights (a 10000k and 6500k combination) with a max 250 PAR.

 

For their actual tanks, they use 10g tanks with a power filter of 200gph and a 100gph powerhead. They do 75% water changes weekly (for a number of reasons, largely because they need to control exact water parameters because of what the are studying). Lighting was again the same PC bulbs with 250 PAR max for 12h a day.

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Awful awful... Somehow my ato flooded my tank some time while I was at work. Even though I have drip loops, the water drips caught the fabric sleeve of the nanobox wires and my storm controller is totally fried. I have no idea if the light still works or not. The fan was still on but the controller is shot. Ugh... The ATO switch was submerged in water AND the float switch was up but it was still pushing water. Lucky nothing else was damaged. Have to switch back to the coral compulsion bulb for now I guess.

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