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ZephNYC

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Hey thanks for that !!

You flatter me !!! Keep it up !!!!!

Everyone thinks I am the "clam pro" around here, but in all honesty I am the complete opposite. In fact it is my extremely poor success rate with Tridacnids that has caused me to research and explore different methods and theories. I can keep them in quarantine forever, but I just cant figure out why they do not do well when transferred to the big reef. Actually my clams are doing better now then ever. so I feel I am half way there.

 

If someone manages to keep a giant clam alive and healthy for years then he/she must be doing something right. Plus the things that you know about PM and clam nutrition. So to a newbie like me you're still the "clam pro."

 

Maybe Big Bertha doesn't like company?

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Now you are sounding like Metrokat, who swears Big Bertha squashes the other smaller clams while Im not looking. I have ALWAYS had a problem with maximas. Besided big Bertha, and my Deresas, which are pretty much indestructible, Ive had a crocea for 6 months that and is doing well and firmly attached, but I feel my maximas are starting to loose it again, and Im PISSED OFF!!! Clams show their problems at night and even more so, in the morning, and Im sensing a decline in my maximas. I may be doing to many water changes, or lately I have been thinking maybe they actually do not like my halides. Time will tell

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Not literally squashed or else there won't be much left of the others. At first I was thinking that being so big, she must be using up all the nutrients in the water but your crocea and derasas are OK. Would be shame to lose those maximas. But you've brought clams from the brink before so I'm sure you'll figure it out. I learned a lot from clams by reading your threads and comments on them so thanks for sharing all that info. I now look at my clams at night and test their reflexes from time to time. Any other updates on Zeph's Zoo Haus? I'll look for some of my progression pics that I can post.

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Not literally squashed or else there won't be much left of the others. At first I was thinking that being so big, she must be using up all the nutrients in the water but your crocea and derasas are OK. Would be shame to lose those maximas. But you've brought clams from the brink before so I'm sure you'll figure it out. I learned a lot from clams by reading your threads and comments on them so thanks for sharing all that info. I now look at my clams at night and test their reflexes from time to time. Any other updates on Zeph's Zoo Haus? I'll look for some of my progression pics that I can post.

 

Hello again loyal follower ! it is nice to see my obsession does not go un noticed :). I am nearly at a loss at why large maximas don't do well in my big system. Some issues are the tank is very old and has literally millions of bristle worms and pyramid look alike snails, that I have always believed were harmless because they don't follow the typical pyramid behavior and all other clam species are doing well. I know the Maxima I posted the other day looks great in that photo, but I can tell it is on the decline after 1 month in that system. The mantle is getting thinner and not "fluffy" like when it first arrived. My friend jedimaster1138 has petty much the same clam in his new system, with lighting much lower than mine. We have had them nearly the same time frame, and when I was at his house the other day I was impressed how FLUFFY it looked. Mine is on the decline, and I just cant figure out why. I think the next one I try will go up high on the rockwork, away from all worms and whatever crawls around in my DSB. It really is the only explanation I can come up with because water parameters and even lighting is EXACTLY the same in my clam QT tank, which can hold clams for ever as far as im concerned. My blue squamosa and small farmed raised maximas are kicking @ss and taking names, but they are high on the frag rack far away from the DSB. I do have a big fat deresa that has been sitting in the sand for nearly a year ( so it cant be pyramid snails), but it has an exceptionally full "foot" and I don't think anything can crawl inside it if it tried. Im going to try a couple more of Dr. Macs large maximas and keep them wayyyy off the sand. Back to the drawing board.

My Zoo house thread...LOL....I simply don't have the time to deal with all these threads and I do want to do a build on my nano that is about to get wet, but I will just do all of that here. Nohting personal against lots of the other popular threads here, but I just felt it was losing its point and becoming like one of those other "crapper threads" where bored people talk about what they had for lunch and post pictures of what their dog did last night. Again, nothing personal - I just don't have the time, or the pettiines for that.

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I guess your only option would be to move those maximas higher then. If they perk back up, you have your answer. How big is your nano again? Have you switched to LEDs yet after being given a rundown on the savings?

 

Do you have any fish that dig or move sand about? My dottyback likes to move sand and always spits out a fair amount of it on my maxima and crocea. They don't seem to mind very much but I do, so I touch them very lightly on the mantle to make them huff and blow all the sand away. Problem is the fish does this more than once a day.

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Good Morning !!! In the name of experimentation, I have removed all the maximas from that tank and transplanted them into my 125 seahorse NPS tank. Im not risking these guys anyymore and im pretty tired of losing Maximas. I really don't understand how Croceas, squamosas, and everything else can do really great and grow - Gigas growing for 8 years ....but Maximas drop dead in 3 months. It just doesn't make sense to me as Croceas have always been considered the hardest clams to maintain, and my croceas are growing and thriving. The only other problem I can think of is collection methods. I hear these big maximas are really cemented into their natural environment, and removing them almost always causes irrepairable damage that takes about 3 months to kill the clam. Perhaps this is why farm raised ones appear to do better.

The reason I moved them to the NPS tank is the 24/7 phyto drip and heavy feedings of rotifers and daphnia. Im really not a big supporter of feeding clams in most systems, but feeding them 24/7 might actually help. Also my seahorse NPS tank is quickly becoming my favorite system as I love the crazy colors of NPS gorgonians, dendronephteas and scleroneptheas. Surrounding them with clams would truly be something nobody has ever seen before.

All I can tell you about LED's are that MOST clam keepers that have tried them eventually go back to metal halides. We had a massive debate and argument on this subject over at Reef Central, and the conclusion seams to be that shallow system nano tanks appear to be able to support Maximas with LEDS, but 99% of big tanks that are focusing on clams NEED halides. Im prepared to get tons of slack for saying this in a forum that believes halides are dead, old school, and too much$$$ to run, but in all honesty, this is the only forum that feels this way. My nano is only 30 gallons with a custom small sump I purchased from Jedimaster1138, and I will be using LED's, but whether I attempt clams in this tank is yet to be decided ( but you know I will ;) ).

Clams have died from being filled up with sand from sand dwellers, so it is definitely a potential problem, but it s very rare. Theyre pretty good at cleaning themselves. I wouldn't worry about it too much, but do what you can to assist.

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Thanks for the tip. Yep, I'd hate to lose my clams. Had the maxima for almost 10 months now and so far so good. As you know, it's a wild clam too and maybe the diver was extra careful in getting it out. I keep wishing for a blue one but can't find one. Also I think those really blue maximas only come from a specific location?

 

Don't all your tanks have clams in them? So the nano should definitely have one, too. Good luck on turning those maximas around.

 

I'm considering going with T5s on my planned 15-gallon AIO myself. Yes, there's someone here who imports and sells AI Vegas, Maxspects, even Radions . But I'd like to test the LEDs vs. T5s issue for myself. I saw a MH+T5 combo but I'm concerned with the heat.

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Thanks for the tip. Yep, I'd hate to lose my clams. Had the maxima for almost 10 months now and so far so good. As you know, it's a wild clam too and maybe the diver was extra careful in getting it out. I keep wishing for a blue one but can't find one. Also I think those really blue maximas only come from a specific location?

 

Don't all your tanks have clams in them? So the nano should definitely have one, too. Good luck on turning those maximas around.

 

I'm considering going with T5s on my planned 15-gallon AIO myself. Yes, there's someone here who imports and sells AI Vegas, Maxspects, even Radions . But I'd like to test the LEDs vs. T5s issue for myself. I saw a MH+T5 combo but I'm concerned with the heat.

Yes, I currently have 4 running reef systems and a dedicated clam quarantine, and they do all carry clams at this time, but my dream has always been to have the most clam packed, insane reef tank in the history of the world. So after successfully keeping them in QT, I transfer them into the BIG BERTHA tank, and that's when the problems begin with Maximas. I usually quarantine maximas for 2 - 3 months, but im going to try keeping them longer in QT to see if they pass my usually run of about 4 months. Now understand Im talking about large Maximas over 5 inches. I have small farm raised maximas going on 6 - 7 months in the Bertha system, and looking good so you can see why I am puzzled. The seahorse NPS has a deresa and a squamosa and have been doing well for about 6 months, but the lighting is fairly low with just a small 150W halide ( its a 125 gal tank ) and I have always felt this is not enough for Maximas. However after seeing Jedis large maxima in what I would consider fairly low lighting, Im testing it out by sitting a big maxi directly under the light.

 

Don't go MH on a 15 gal unless you can run a chiller. It is easy to get all the light you will ever need on a tank that size with T5 and/or LED's, and it will keep your electricity bill from being a headache. Now before I get accused of going against what I jus tsaid in my last post about everyone switching back to halides, let it be said we are talking about NANO's here. If your tank s anything more than a 55 gal, I wouldn't use anything but halides.

 

What color is your maxima ? It is understood that gold/tan maximas are the easiest to keep and need the least amount of light for that species. Blue maximas, which are found world wide, are definitely more difficult, as they actually carry a SHIELD that blocks/reflects light in the blue/actinic range. Now when you get into the more exotic tri -color maximas, you are talking about the very most difficult clams to keep- in my experience anyway.

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jedimaster1138

or lately I have been thinking maybe they actually do not like my halides. Time will tell

 

I've been meaning to ask - what kind of halides do you run? I know some people would sooner chew their own arm off than give up their XM Radiums, 20k, i think. Just curious.

 

Some issues are the tank is very old and has literally millions of bristle worms and pyramid look alike snails, that I have always believed were harmless because they don't follow the typical pyramid behavior and all other clam species are doing well.

 

Have I mentioned how I feel about bristle worms? I was just talking to Javier about them yesterday. He has a bunch too and I recently saw some 3" buggers in my big eagle eye rock. He recently added a yellow coris wrasse and I'm seriously considering doing the same. I like the idea of a pretty fish that deals with pests (hello my copperband) I hate those worms and wonder/worry that they might snuggle up to one of my clams and make it lunch....

 

The only other problem I can think of is collection methods. I hear these big maximas are really cemented into their natural environment, and removing them almost always causes irrepairable damage that takes about 3 months to kill the clam. Perhaps this is why farm raised ones appear to do better.

 

I have a long story about Diver's Den and a clam that I will tell you about later. Suffice it to say - yeah. I'm all about the farm raised clams too for one reason - the attachment to the tile. I think those porous tiles that the new cultured clams are coming on make ALL THE DIFFERENCE.

 

 

However after seeing Jedis large maxima in what I would consider fairly low lighting, Im testing it out by sitting a big maxi directly under the light.

 

I'm up to 50% white, 90% blue at peak now. Interesting to see how the big maxima has reacted...

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I'm up to 50% white, 90% blue at peak now. Interesting to see how the big maxima has reacted...

 

This I exactly the type of information I really appreciate, because the bottom line is your clams look great. The "theme" of this thread is results, and If I am impressed with the results I'll check out how you did it. So keep up appearances my friend cuz we're all watchin!

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I've been meaning to ask - what kind of halides do you run? I know some people would sooner chew their own arm off than give up their XM Radiums, 20k, i think. Just curious.

 

 

Have I mentioned how I feel about bristle worms?

 

On Big Berthas tank I run three 250W 14K. I've tried 20K and its just too dark. Now on my 210SPS I run a combination of 250 w 10K's and two 250W 14K. two of each.

 

yummyyy bristle worms!!! I spotted this guy in my Mysis breeder tank tonight. Hes about the thickness of my index finger and a good 6 inches.

 

photofeo.jpg

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jedimaster1138

This I exactly the type of information I really appreciate, because the bottom line is your clams look great. The "theme" of this thread is results, and If I am impressed with the results I'll check out how you did it. So keep up appearances my friend cuz we're all watchin!

 

I appreciate the positive feedback :) I'll keep on documenting as best I can. PS - check my thread...posting a question...

 

 

On Big Berthas tank I run three 250W 14K. I've tried 20K and its just too dark. Now on my 210SPS I run a combination of 250 w 10K's and two 250W 14K. two of each.

 

yummyyy bristle worms!!! I spotted this guy in my Mysis breeder tank tonight. Hes about the thickness of my index finger and a good 6 inches.

 

photofeo.jpg

 

That worm is bloody horrifying.

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Yes, I currently have 4 running reef systems and a dedicated clam quarantine, and they do all carry clams at this time, but my dream has always been to have the most clam packed, insane reef tank in the history of the world. So after successfully keeping them in QT, I transfer them into the BIG BERTHA tank, and that's when the problems begin with Maximas. I usually quarantine maximas for 2 - 3 months, but im going to try keeping them longer in QT to see if they pass my usually run of about 4 months. Now understand Im talking about large Maximas over 5 inches. I have small farm raised maximas going on 6 - 7 months in the Bertha system, and looking good so you can see why I am puzzled. The seahorse NPS has a deresa and a squamosa and have been doing well for about 6 months, but the lighting is fairly low with just a small 150W halide ( its a 125 gal tank ) and I have always felt this is not enough for Maximas. However after seeing Jedis large maxima in what I would consider fairly low lighting, Im testing it out by sitting a big maxi directly under the light.

 

Don't go MH on a 15 gal unless you can run a chiller. It is easy to get all the light you will ever need on a tank that size with T5 and/or LED's, and it will keep your electricity bill from being a headache. Now before I get accused of going against what I jus tsaid in my last post about everyone switching back to halides, let it be said we are talking about NANO's here. If your tank s anything more than a 55 gal, I wouldn't use anything but halides.

 

What color is your maxima ? It is understood that gold/tan maximas are the easiest to keep and need the least amount of light for that species. Blue maximas, which are found world wide, are definitely more difficult, as they actually carry a SHIELD that blocks/reflects light in the blue/actinic range. Now when you get into the more exotic tri -color maximas, you are talking about the very most difficult clams to keep- in my experience anyway.

 

I have a brown maxima. Really? Blue ones have a worldwide distribution? I've never seen one. Somebody must be snapping them up as soon as they're collected. I have bigger chance of growing taller than owning or maybe even seeing one. The vast majority of clams I see here are croceas and very rarely a big squamosa. I've never seen a maxima in the LFS here. I got mine from my friend.

 

How about just placing the aquacultured maximas in with Big Bertha and just keep the other clams in your other tanks?

 

Nope, I won't go halides. The heat and the cost. And I have other mouths to feed, too. I have something of a zoo haus here myself.

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I have a brown maxima. Really? Blue ones have a worldwide distribution? I've never seen one. Somebody must be snapping them up as soon as they're collected. I have bigger chance of growing taller than owning or maybe even seeing one. The vast majority of clams I see here are croceas and very rarely a big squamosa. I've never seen a maxima in the LFS here. I got mine from my friend.

 

How about just placing the aquacultured maximas in with Big Bertha and just keep the other clams in your other tanks?

 

Nope, I won't go halides. The heat and the cost. And I have other mouths to feed, too. I have something of a zoo haus here myself.

 

Have you noticed they never say "brown" in this hobby ? I guess it makes the corals sound like sh*t, So they call them GOLD maximas...MOCHA milliporas...etc....Have to admit it kind of works.

Actually, Ive always found more bue maximas than any other color out there. But the small farm raised "gold" maximas are the most popular because they are the hardiest and the cheapest and they have had the greatest success farming them. Live Aquaria almost always has farmed gold maximas for as cheap as $40 - $50 but not on Divers Den. You have to look under aquacultured inverts.

 

Youre right, and Im sticking with only farmed maximas in Big Bethas tank until I feel adventurous enough to add another big Maxima. I just orderd two large maximas from Dr. Macs "our pick" and they are going straight into the seahorse NPS tank with insanely heavy feedings. Im keeping my fingers crossed because if they don't work out in this tank I may have to retire from being the "clam man" and just get a Betta. fingerscrossed

What else do you have besides fish ?

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Have you noticed they never say "brown" in this hobby ? I guess it makes the corals sound like sh*t, So they call them GOLD maximas...MOCHA milliporas...etc....Have to admit it kind of works.

Actually, Ive always found more bue maximas than any other color out there. But the small farm raised "gold" maximas are the most popular because they are the hardiest and the cheapest and they have had the greatest success farming them. Live Aquaria almost always has farmed gold maximas for as cheap as $40 - $50 but not on Divers Den. You have to look under aquacultured inverts.

 

Youre right, and Im sticking with only farmed maximas in Big Bethas tank until I feel adventurous enough to add another big Maxima. I just orderd two large maximas from Dr. Macs "our pick" and they are going straight into the seahorse NPS tank with insanely heavy feedings. Im keeping my fingers crossed because if they don't work out in this tank I may have to retire from being the "clam man" and just get a Betta. fingerscrossed

What else do you have besides fish ?

 

Mine's definitely brown. Not gold, just brown. It's posted on the clam picture thread. Blue's my favorite color. I've been looking for a blue sps to no avail. That's why I said you guys are lucky there because you're spoiled for choice on pretty much anything. There's a project here that just started to culture corals in situ, primarily for restoration purposes and maybe even for the hobby. Clams too.

 

http://reefbuilders.com/2013/02/10/rvs-4-star-mariculture-coral-farm-philippines-source-unknown-corals/

http://www.businessmirror.com.ph/index.php/business/agri-commodities/9550-200-giant-clams-to-be-transported-to-bohol

http://reefbuilders.com/2012/12/05/giant-clams-live-fields-bolinao-marine-laboratory-philippines/

 

I think as long as you have Big Bertha, you'll always be the "clam man" around here.

 

I have tarantulas, geckos, snakes, turtles, a bearded dragon, an iguana, lovebirds, pigeons, dwarf hamsters, a hedgehog, a cat and dogs.

 

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Hello again loyal follower ! it is nice to see my obsession does not go un noticed :). I am nearly at a loss at why large maximas don't do well in my big system. Some issues are the tank is very old and has literally millions of bristle worms and pyramid look alike snails, that I have always believed were harmless because they don't follow the typical pyramid behavior and all other clam species are doing well. I know the Maxima I posted the other day looks great in that photo, but I can tell it is on the decline after 1 month in that system. The mantle is getting thinner and not "fluffy" like when it first arrived. My friend jedimaster1138 has petty much the same clam in his new system, with lighting much lower than mine. We have had them nearly the same time frame, and when I was at his house the other day I was impressed how FLUFFY it looked. Mine is on the decline, and I just cant figure out why. I think the next one I try will go up high on the rockwork, away from all worms and whatever crawls around in my DSB. It really is the only explanation I can come up with because water parameters and even lighting is EXACTLY the same in my clam QT tank, which can hold clams for ever as far as im concerned. My blue squamosa and small farmed raised maximas are kicking @ss and taking names, but they are high on the frag rack far away from the DSB. I do have a big fat deresa that has been sitting in the sand for nearly a year ( so it cant be pyramid snails), but it has an exceptionally full "foot" and I don't think anything can crawl inside it if it tried. Im going to try a couple more of Dr. Macs large maximas and keep them wayyyy off the sand. Back to the drawing board.

My Zoo house thread...LOL....I simply don't have the time to deal with all these threads and I do want to do a build on my nano that is about to get wet, but I will just do all of that here. Nohting personal against lots of the other popular threads here, but I just felt it was losing its point and becoming like one of those other "crapper threads" where bored people talk about what they had for lunch and post pictures of what their dog did last night. Again, nothing personal - I just don't have the time, or the pettiines for that.

 

BIG BERTHA WANTS TO BE IN A DEEP BLUE SQUARE TANK WITH NOTHING BUT HERSELF AND THOSE CLOWNFISH.

Remove all clams from her tank and they will live.

Sorry for yelling.

 

Youre right, and Im sticking with only farmed maximas in Big Bethas tank until I feel adventurous enough to add another big Maxima. I just orderd two large maximas from Dr. Macs "our pick" and they are going straight into the seahorse NPS tank with insanely heavy feedings. Im keeping my fingers crossed because if they don't work out in this tank I may have to retire from being the "clam man" and just get a Betta. fingerscrossed

What else do you have besides fish ?

You have ozone in there. beating-head-against-the-wall.gif

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BIG BERTHA WANTS TO BE IN A DEEP BLUE SQUARE TANK WITH NOTHING BUT HERSELF AND THOSE CLOWNFISH.

Remove all clams from her tank and they will live.

Sorry for yelling.

 

You have ozone in there. beating-head-against-the-wall.gif

 

Thank you for your advice, it is nice to see you posting here. I took the ozone off that system a while ago after that squammy died. I think everything should be fine now. Time will tell. Yes, I've been procrastinating on moving Bertha because I really love the aesthetics of that tank, but as I keep saying, she does need a larger aquarium. 210 living room display ???

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jedimaster1138

Thank you for your advice, it is nice to see you posting here. I took the ozone off that system a while ago after that squammy died. I think everything should be fine now. Time will tell. Yes, I've been procrastinating on moving Bertha because I really love the aesthetics of that tank, but as I keep saying, she does need a larger aquarium. 210 living room display ???

 

210????

 

300g Marineland Deep Dimension + 210g sump

 

Go big !

 

(i'm a bad influence, get over it ;-p )

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210????

 

300g Marineland Deep Dimension + 210g sump

 

Go big !

 

(i'm a bad influence, get over it ;-p )

 

HA!!! I like the way you think. My motto is "GO BIG OR GO HOME!!!" Im just concerned because I live in a pre war building on the 5th floor, and I would hate to have 500 gallons kill 12 people as it crashes floor to floor and lands in my basement! :o

 

...although I HATE my tenants anyway. HA!!!!

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jedimaster1138

HA!!! I like the way you think. My motto is "GO BIG OR GO HOME!!!" Im just concerned because I live in a pre war building on the 5th floor, and I would hate to have 500 gallons kill 12 people as it crashes floor to floor and lands in my basement! :o

 

...although I HATE my tenants anyway. HA!!!!

 

There ya go...kick em out, rip open the ceiling and walls. Sister some 2x12 joists and add some steel columns to carry the load. Problem solved.

 

:-P

 

I'm not insane or anything... mostly...

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