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CNCreef Asis Pro 824 LED/T5HO Evil Cluster Hybrid


jedimasterben

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Hey Ben, I looked over your LED layout on the first page and noticed you're using red leds. What is the purpose of them if you're using a high CRI white?

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jedimasterben

Because I needed something to fill the last slot on those boards and couldn't come up with a better idea :)

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  • 2 weeks later...
mcblablabla

Hello jedimasterben,

are the LED setup from post #1 (http://www.nano-reef...r/#entry4254405) still the setup which with you went live in post #1603 (http://www.nano-reef...65#entry4741573)?

CH1: 4x Vero 10 4,000K 90CRI

CH2: 8x Luxeon M royal blue

CH3: 8x Luxeon Rebel blue, 4x Luxeon Rebel red

CH4: 4x Luxeon Rebel cyan, 8x Luxeon Rebel ES lime

CH5: 4x SemiLEDs N5TL-U2-AM

 

Please can you also have a look in to my topic, where I need some support for my project?

http://www.nano-reef...s-input-needed/

 

Furthermore I’m interested in to know the exact name of the used LED, because I have/ want to buy them in Germany (I’m from there). Otherwise I would be also interested to know in which online shop on US side did you bought that LED?

 

Thanks for your answers,

Gerd

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jedimasterben

They are the same. As for the exact names, WYSIWYG. I don't know about the violet LEDs, as far as my PAR numbers (with wavelength correction), I don't think that they are superior to LEDgroupbuy's violets, and are an increased cost.

 

I bought from Newark, Digikey, LEDgroupbuy, Steve's LEDs, ReefLEDlab, and about two dozen other places lol.

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mcblablabla

Hi Ben,

actually I was not able to read the whole thread. Sorry fro my question, if the answer were given already some posts before.

 

Thermal questions:

1. How much Watt does one of your cluster have?

2. What about the temperature because the headsink, the housing and the used fans seems relatively small?

3. Are the fans working continiously or are the some kind PWM controlled.

 

Nanoboxreef questions:

4. Did you ordered only the housing with the heatsink or a complete fixtures?

5. If you use the Nanoboxreef fans... are the quiet?

 

Thanks,

Gerhard

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jedimasterben

1. How much Watt does one of your cluster have?

Depends on what current you run them at. Each datasheet has the current vs voltage curve and that will help determine the final wattage at full current. Unless your clusters are exact clones and run at the same current, then wattage will not be similar.

 

2. What about the temperature because the headsink, the housing and the used fans seems relatively small?

I can hold my hand to the heatsink with no issues for long periods of time, so there aren't any thermal issues when run at 700mA or below.

 

3. Are the fans working continiously or are the some kind PWM controlled.

As of now they are on continuously. If I could get the Bluefish controller to send a constant 5v signal then I would have it control them. My PCB requires a 5-12v signal for activation of the control circuit, and then a 0-5v PWM signal to control the circuit's output.

 

Nanoboxreef questions:

4. Did you ordered only the housing with the heatsink or a complete fixtures?

Heatsink and housing.

 

5. If you use the Nanoboxreef fans... are the quiet?

Fans are 50mm 'Orion' brand. http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?WT.z_header=search_go〈=en&site=us&keywords=1053-1225-ND&x=0&y=0&formaction=on

 

They're decent.

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jedimasterben

 

Razor is such garbage though...

I've got a few Razer products, as does my friend, and neither of us have ever had issues other than typical batteries going dead after repeated charge cycles.
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I've got a few Razer products, as does my friend, and neither of us have ever had issues other than typical batteries going dead after repeated charge cycles.

 

They get broke pretty fast in my nerd house, then again the nerds here won't stand for wireless either (or laptops).

 

i-dont-always-suck-at-gaming.jpg

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mcblablabla

Hi Ben,

me again and I come up with similar question.

I need some information about the distribution of LED over your evil cluster.

Please can you give me a hint what is on which position:

1.) ?

2.a) ?

2.B) ?

2.c) ?

3.) ?

4. think it's Vero 10 4,000K 90CRI

5.) ?

6.a) ?

6.B)?

6.c) ?

 

Thanks, Gerhard

post-84858-0-77835400-1405089239_thumb.jpg

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jedimasterben

Hi Ben,

me again and I come up with similar question.

I need some information about the distribution of LED over your evil cluster.

Please can you give me a hint what is on which position:

1.) ?

2.a) ?

2. B) ?

2.c) ?

3.) ?

4. think it's Vero 10 4,000K 90CRI

5.) ?

6.a) ?

6. B)?

6.c) ?

 

Thanks, Gerhard

 

CH1

4x Vero 10 4,000K 90CRI

 

CH2

8x Luxeon M royal blue

 

CH3

8x Luxeon Rebel blue

4x Luxeon Rebel red

 

CH4

4x Luxeon Rebel cyan

8x Luxeon Rebel ES lime

 

CH5

4x SemiLEDs N5TL-U2-AM

 

 

That should break it down for ya :)

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mcblablabla

But Ben,

What I need is the information, what kind of LED is on position 1?

In case of the 3up star, what kind of LED are on it.

 

Reason for this question are, that I have no clue what I have to order?

 

Many thanks

Gerhard

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But Ben,

What I need is the information, what kind of LED is on position 1?

In case of the 3up star, what kind of LED are on it.

 

Reason for this question are, that I have no clue what I have to order?

 

Many thanks

Gerhard

The three ups are two lime with one cyan and two cool blue with one red i believe.
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LED 1 is the SemiLED N5TL-U2-AM.

LED 2 is the 2 lime and 1 cyan combo.

LED 3 is the Luxeon M from LedGroupBuy.

LED 4 is the Vero 10 4000K 90CRI.

LED 5 is the second Luxeon M.

LED 6 is the 2 cool blue and 1 deep red combo.

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Hey Ben out of curiosity why didn't you go with 3000K 97CRI Vero vs the 90CRI 4000K? Would the very warm color be too much to balance out? Reason I ask if because of this:

 

Decor.PNG

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jedimasterben

Hey Ben out of curiosity why didn't you go with 3000K 97CRI Vero vs the 90CRI 4000K? Would the very warm color be too much to balance out? Reason I ask if because of this:

 

Decor.PNG

Yes, it is incredibly difficult to balance out warmer colors. You can hardly tell that I have any blue in my array if I have the Vero cranked up to even 500mA.

 

If I were going to use 3000K, then I'd just use this:

23jul14CrispWhite-Lumileds-LED-508-300x2

 

;)

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Yes, it is incredibly difficult to balance out warmer colors. You can hardly tell that I have any blue in my array if I have the Vero cranked up to even 500mA.

 

If I were going to use 3000K, then I'd just use this:

23jul14CrispWhite-Lumileds-LED-508-300x2

 

;)

What brand/model is that?

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Interesting. I've not seen a curve like that from any of their other whites. It even emits some light in the Violet range.

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jedimasterben

As evil explained, it is the 'Tide' effect, as bleaches contain a fluorescing agent to make white clothing fluoresce with violet light in incandescent or fluorescent lighting. White LEDs emit no violet light due to their design, so they miss out on that little bit of extra pop, but now in their CoB arrays they toss in a few violet dies.

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You are a wealth of knowledge when it comes to LEDs.

 

Too bad our hobby is so small. A 4K 90 cri white with a little violet pop would be a killer chip for any led light.

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