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CNCreef Asis Pro 824 LED/T5HO Evil Cluster Hybrid


jedimasterben

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If u didn't live so far I would tell you to come over. I have all types of ways to fix that. I actually have some real cool stainless steel grommets that would clean that up nicely.

Actually, grommets may be the answer here. Rubber grommets are readily available at most hardware stores and will make the cable exit look infinitely better than the hot glue mess you have now.

 

I know it's more time and money, but at this point, why booger up a great looking fixture with a half ass cable management job?

 

Do it right... It's for the children :tears:

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Actually, grommets may be the answer here. Rubber grommets are readily available at most hardware stores and will make the cable exit look infinitely better than the hot glue mess you have now.

 

I know it's more time and money, but at this point, why booger up a great looking fixture with a half ass cable management job?

 

Do it right... It's for the children :tears:

 

Yup I agree.

 

Also Ben.

I was able to hide all my wires for my t5's. It was a little work. But possible. You want pics? Only 1 sleeve of cables coming out the rear with everything in it.

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Here is a pic. I can get some better ones if you want. I ran all the t5 stuff inside the unit. All you see for wires is the little bit on the t5 end caps. It looks super clean. Everything comes out the middle together so I only have one sleeve running out the back.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/123509535@N06/14297572271/'>14297572271_5c08b7b738_b.jpg

https://www.flickr.com/photos/123509535@N06/14297572271/'>Untitled by https://www.flickr.com/people/123509535@N06/'>touchofklasse, on Flickr

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Just get some rubber grommets.

 

If you have to ream out the holes, so be it.

 

Tie strap inside for strain relief.

 

 

 

Youve been working on this light for a year and a half, this is not the last iteration of this light (we all know that).

 

I wasn't kidding on the CA glue. Get some Bob Smith Thin, and the spray Accelerator (RC Hobby stuff). The solid wire is actually awesome for for making straight circuits with sharp bends glued to the heatsink. They make a solvent too. No one is going to be looking inside your fixture, but youll know.

 

 

When I was in the business of running wires, and I absolutely could not run concealed, that was my last trick in the tool box.

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jedimasterben

This is what Clyde thinks of me working on this for several hours every day and not petting her lol

 

IMG_20140529_181849006.jpg

 

 

 

 

IMG_20140529_203847213.jpg

 

 

 

 

So my plan for covering the wire sleeve with more wire sleeve didn't work out exactly the way I planned, but it doesn't look horrific.

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Paleoreef103

IMG_20140529_203847213.jpg

 

 

 

 

So my plan for covering the wire sleeve with more wire sleeve didn't work out exactly the way I planned, but it doesn't look horrific.

Oh man. I cannot wait for some numbers off that beast.

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jedimasterben

So I was telling my grandma how much of a gigantic pain in the ass sleeving and heatshrink are, especially since I did not have a heat gun to shrink it with, and using the soldering iron has led to significantly increased time spent... and she is like 'you know we've got a heat gun here, right?"

 

 

FML

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jedimasterben

Off of work to head home and start blinding myself. Thinking of grabbing a pair of sunglasses before lol

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NirvanaandTool

Do like I did. Get some "antique" welding goggles for that mad scientist look :)

 

So doing this. B)

 

So I was telling my grandma how much of a gigantic pain in the ass sleeving and heatshrink are, especially since I did not have a heat gun to shrink it with, and using the soldering iron has led to significantly increased time spent... and she is like 'you know we've got a heat gun here, right?"

 

 

FML

 

Haha nice. Go Jedi Grandma.

 

I have my own heat gun. You never know when you'll need it. Like for making fun things out of acrylic.

6659789243_1e9994de32.jpg

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Paleoreef103

FYI everyone, the Giesemann Lagoon Blue sucks a bag of angry dicks.

It looks like one bulb might be good in an 8 bulb fixture. Huge spike @500nm and broad spectrum green. That being said, I believe it sucks a bag of angry dicks in any other situation.

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jedimasterben

It looks like one bulb might be good in an 8 bulb fixture. Huge spike @500nm and broad spectrum green. That being said, I believe it sucks a bag of angry dicks in any other situation.

 

This is the actual spectral signature.

 

lagoonblue.jpg

 

That was $47 down the drain.

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Paleoreef103

This is the actual spectral signature.

 

 

 

That was $47 down the drain.

Giesemann-Lagoon-Blue-Powerchrome-Spectr

Hmmm... This is the one I was looking at. Reefbuilders descried it as white light with a strong turquoise component so this spectrum seemed accurate. I see that yours is the one from Giesemann however.

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jedimasterben

Waiting on paint to dry is like waiting on paint to dry lol. Not sure what I'm gonna put in these under the LDD boards to insulate them. The paintwill do it, but the paint is thin and scratches off easily. May just put a layer of electrical tape on the bottom of the boards. Ghetto as shit, but hey, works super well :)
IMG_20140530_194559416.jpg


See the bag of dicks right there? Can't miss it.
IMG_20140530_214736083.jpg


One Coral Plus in the front, Blue Plus in the back. Looks like shit because there is a noticeable separation in the color from each bulb, the front of the tank is white, the back is blue.
IMG_20140530_225104667.jpg


Took this to show someone else, but you can see my almost decent sleeving on it.
IMG_20140530_235210087.jpg


Also note that on the T5 ballast, my 7-conductor cable had SIX wires that were all black. That was a bitch to keep straight, had to use a multimeter to test conductivity to make sure I had the right wire.

Gonna start wiring in the LEDs in just a little while. I figured out why the fans weren't working - the O2Surplus boards have a PWM fan control for fans that are not PWM, but to enable the fans altogether it needs a 5v or 12v signal on the 'enable' pin to activate the ground of the SCW output, but the 12v on the second pin is always hot, so I can just wire the 12v output of the SCW right into the enable pin to activate the ground. Wish I would have known that earlier lol.

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bdevillier19

What about plastidip inside the box to help insulate, or some if the brush on electrical tape on the box or the bottom of the board?

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