jedimasterben Posted May 31, 2014 Author Share Posted May 31, 2014 What about plastidip inside the box to help insulate, or some if the brush on electrical tape on the box or the bottom of the board? Had that same thought about the liquid electrical tape, might go grab some from the depot. Link to comment
bdevillier19 Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 I've also seen people use hot glue to insulate as well. You seem to be on the hot glue route anyways so.... Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 31, 2014 Author Share Posted May 31, 2014 So I made a trip to town and stopped to see my grandparents for a bit, then decided I'd just use hot glue since it started POURING rain and I didn't wanna go to Home Depot anyway lol. Inserted the black, uh, inserts into the 8020. Some wiring. Starting to get cramped. Ok, getting WAY cramped for one driver box. Oy. And I'm just gonna leave this here for now. Uncorrected PAR on the sandbed on-center is right at 200 with just the LEDs. Link to comment
Paleoreef103 Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Uncorrected PAR on the sandbed on-center is right at 200 with just the LEDs. Very nice job. Link to comment
Alex B Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Awesome! I'm dying to get some par readings on my light. I'm at about 60% with t5's on for 6 hours. Everything is responding well. Couple frags have browned out though. Going to keep going up 5% every week until I find the sweet spot. Link to comment
knd107 Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 Waiting on paint to dry is like waiting on paint to dry lol. Not sure what I'm gonna put in these under the LDD boards to insulate them. The paintwill do it, but the paint is thin and scratches off easily. May just put a layer of electrical tape on the bottom of the boards. Ghetto as shit, but hey, works super well See the bag of dicks right there? Can't miss it. One Coral Plus in the front, Blue Plus in the back. Looks like shit because there is a noticeable separation in the color from each bulb, the front of the tank is white, the back is blue. Took this to show someone else, but you can see my almost decent sleeving on it. Also note that on the T5 ballast, my 7-conductor cable had SIX wires that were all black. That was a bitch to keep straight, had to use a multimeter to test conductivity to make sure I had the right wire. Gonna start wiring in the LEDs in just a little while. I figured out why the fans weren't working - the O2Surplus boards have a PWM fan control for fans that are not PWM, but to enable the fans altogether it needs a 5v or 12v signal on the 'enable' pin to activate the ground of the SCW output, but the 12v on the second pin is always hot, so I can just wire the 12v output of the SCW right into the enable pin to activate the ground. Wish I would have known that earlier lol. Why would you try a coral+ and blue+ together? haha. Thanks for giving it a try, I almost thought that it might blend better but you saved me $20 on trying it myself. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 Yeah, it was mostly because those were the first bulbs I grabbed. I have a total of six 36" T5 here, two of the Lagoon Blue that were in the new box by themselves, and then two Coral Plus and two Blue Plus that were all in a box together, and I just grabbed two without looking at them. With the LEDs on, the color difference between the two bulbs disappears (or at least is not visible), but yes, if you're going to add more than one bulb to an LED array, make sure that they are symmetrical, IE two of the same bulb, or if adding four bulbs (unnecessary IMHO) use two sets of the same kind. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 No PAR tonight, but attempted to get some good pics of the light in various configurations. NW only RB only Lime/Cyan only Blue/Red only Violet only RB/V RB/V/B/R NW/RB RB/L/C (this pic didn't turn out so hot, looks a lot better in Lightroom, didn't export correctly) RB/L/C/B/R/V NW/RB/B/R/V All LEDs All LEDs, NW/L/C 50% (my favorite) 2x Blue Plus 2x Blue Plus, All LEDs 2x Blue Plus, All LEDs, NW/L/C 50% 2x Blue Plus, RB/V 2x Blue Plus, RB/B/R/V That was WAY too time consuming for how shitty all of those pictures turned out lol, I need to get a better lens. Link to comment
bdevillier19 Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 That looks good even with your so called s####y pictures. Makes me want to get my light going. I am moving in 2 months so the tank upgrade will happen at that time. My light won't be built by then but I picked up a 150w x2 48" Mh to light things while I build the light. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 Psh, no need to follow in my footsteps and take six months on a build lol Link to comment
NirvanaandTool Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 6 months, a year. It's all good. I'm at about 10 months now on my build. Thanks for all those pics. Cool seeing the mix of all the different colors. Appreciate it. More work will be done on mine this week. My limes & extra coralux board came in so time to finish up the LED side of the build. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 PARNW @ 1ANW at 700mAL/C at 1AL/C at 700mARB at 1ARB at 700mAB/R at 700mAV at 1AV at 700mAAll LED at 1A (except B/R at 700mA)All LED at 700mA2x Blue PlusAll LED at 1A (except B/R at 700mA) with 2x Blue PlusAll LED at 700mA with 2x Blue Plus Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 Power usage breakdown.Total watts consumed by the Bluefish controller, 3x 50mm fans, all the LEDs at 1A (save for blue/red at 700mA), and T5HO 2x39w ballast is 374 watts.With the LEDs turned to 700mA maximum on all channels, this drops to 299 watts.With the LEDs off, this goes down to 101 watts.With the T5 ballast off, leaving the fans and Bluefish controller, drops to 14 watts.So the controller and fans use 14w, the T5 ballast 87w, the LEDs at 700mA use 199w, the LEDs at 1A use 273w.For a 37% power increase from 700mA to 1A, there is a 24-27% increase in PAR. Not too shabby. Link to comment
Arkayology Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 Nice lighting breakdown man. Link to comment
NirvanaandTool Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 Nice lighting breakdown man. This. Detailed and thorough breakdown. 400 PAR at the sandbed. Link to comment
bdevillier19 Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 nice write up ben. on an off topic note, I saw this and thought of you. lol http://www.engadget.com/2014/06/04/desk-pc-desk-pc-desk/ Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 4, 2014 Author Share Posted June 4, 2014 I like this one better, got to see the build log for it and it evolve. http://www.l3p.nl/l3p-d3sk/ Link to comment
CrazyEyes Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 I think that light looks great. I need to get my shit together. Link to comment
NirvanaandTool Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 I think that light looks great. I need to get my shit together. Me too now that I finally have some Limes to put on. Maybe I can test fire my death ray by the weekend! Link to comment
Confuse Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Bump! It's too quiet around here! Haha Any new updates, Ben? I miss the LED chatter.... Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 11, 2014 Author Share Posted June 11, 2014 Nope, nothing new. For once I'm happy lol for now. mwahahahahaha. Link to comment
CrazyEyes Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 http://s27.photobucket.com/user/DrftNme/media/Little-Fockers-Robert-De-Niro-Close-Up-25-10-10-kc_zps805e70de.jpg.html'> Link to comment
NirvanaandTool Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 Quick, hurry up and build your clusters before Ben changes his mind! Mines waiting to get mounted in the canopy Link to comment
knd107 Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 Did you end up putting optics on the Lux M RB? Link to comment
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