jedimasterben Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 I've read every evil cluster thread known to man, both here, on R2R, and a few weird ones on RC. You pop up all over the damned internet Jedi. This ones still my favy. NO ONE CAN ESCAPE ME It seems its all the little things that nickle and dime ya to death. I figuring at least $100 or more in unaccounted for hardware and miscellaneous supplies in my build. Yeah, I've got about double that set aside for it lol since this is all-out. Hell, $85 in cable sleeve alone is insane. Link to comment
bdevillier19 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 yeah i'd love to go all out but i'm working with a limited budget so i have to distribute funds carefully. Link to comment
kory1006 Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Out of curiosity, did you ever try running your setup with the BXRA off and using the Coral+ as your whites? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 Nope. (I don't think I did, anyway, never tried it) Link to comment
KnH Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 what do you think of using the BXRA as a substitute for a MH and running T5s to supplement colors Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 Are you using a 4000K metal halide? The BXRA are extremely powerful and warmer than any halide I've ever seen. To get the same punch and coverage as a metal halide, it will take a few of them spread out, and it will be very difficult to have enough T5 light to increase the color temperature - so many so that it will be pointless to use the LEDs or any supplemental light. Link to comment
Adrnalnrsh Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Nope. (I don't think I did, anyway, never tried it) Reminds me, still having issue with dinos? If so, turn off your BXRA's and your T5's assuming their the coral plus? I've recently had a small dino's issue after replacing some of my T5's with 2x Coral plus and 1x Aquablue Special and due to the warmer color temp dino's increased. I replaced one KZ Fiji purple and three blue+'s. I've sinced, raised my light and cut back the photo period on those bulbs and dinos are dying back. The were only in the upper part of my aquarium too. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 Reminds me, still having issue with dinos? Unfortunately. I still haven't done the death punch to it yet, though (a freshwater dip), been waiting on getting another temporary tank to get set up while I take the rock and corals out of the Biocube and then rinse it out before filling it with new saltwater and putting everything back in. According to Mr. Pants on here (who has a PhD and his field of study is dinoflagellates), simply coming into contact with water with a significant difference in salinity (more than 5ppt) bursts the cell wall. If so, turn off your BXRA's and your T5's assuming their the coral plus? I've recently had a small dino's issue after replacing some of my T5's with 2x Coral plus and 1x Aquablue Special and due to the warmer color temp dino's increased. I replaced one KZ Fiji purple and three blue+'s. I've sinced, raised my light and cut back the photo period on those bulbs and dinos are dying back. The were only in the upper part of my aquarium too. Dinoflagellates are not photoautotrophic, they are heterotrophic - reducing light level or decreasing 500-700nm light will not kill them or do them any harm - they'll simply encyst and will bloom again when conditions come back in line to what they need to reproduce. The species that Mr. Pants has identified that are typical in aquaria will grow in a specific range of light intensity. In the highest intensity parts of my tank (around 500 PAR) they would not grow, and in places lower than ~150 they wouldn't grow, either. They really really really really really REALLY love my gorgonian - it is the only place that they will grow in the little Biocube. Link to comment
Adrnalnrsh Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 I am not sure I agree with all that, could be right or half right from what I know. Coral symbiodinium (zooxanthellae/symbiotic algae) are in fact a type of dinoflagellates and are photosynthetic. In the case of a heterotrophic vs autotrophic there can be organisms that are heterotrophic or autotrophic, but because something is heterotrophic doesn't mean it can't be photoheterotrophic. There are also photoautotrophic organisms as well. I guess it really comes down to fixing carbon, organic vs inorganic carbons, which is where I get lost. Anyhow, in many cases lights out have helped with dino's for many people (I've done this in the past as well). I am sure it wouldn't hurt things to turn off the warmer colors for a few days and see how things react. I can assure you my dinos appeared after I added these three new bulbs, which also means my par went up since all of the bulbs (8x54w) were a year old. 4th bulb replaced was ATI True Actinic Dino's growth was all over my power heads, frag racks and upper back wall which was the highest parts of the aquarium and closest to the warmest colors of my bulbs. My tank is 24" deep and there's almost none if any growing in the lower half of my tank. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 A sneak peek at what I get to work play with this weekend. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Looks fun. Want numbers. Why the empty slots, not enough 700Hs on hand? I see 1000H's on the board so I doubt you're trying the 1500L series. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 I just destroyed the pins on one of my two 700H, and I have only 8x 1000H to try and replace it with Link to comment
Horerczy Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Been there done that. Wonderful little drivers. Powerful and expendable. For a moment I thought you were going to try these out. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/LDD-1500L/?qs=JK6Bpmia/msTbFwcpjJldw Then I remembered that they only have 30V max output. so you would need one for each of the of the 1500mA capable channels seeing as the channels would draw 16.5v at that current. They need an H version of them. Link to comment
KnH Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 A sneak peek at what I get to work play with this weekend. I really want to know Parr measurements with the optic Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 I still can't believe how impossibly tiny the Luxeon Z/UV are! And remember that there are FOUR of them mounted to each board! Link to comment
Reefmaster1996 Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Sweet, can't wait to see how they work. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 Should be badass. Was texting Dave about them earlier and he mentioned that he's finishing up the units! Link to comment
Horerczy Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Holy carp! Those use the Luxeon Z package yes? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 Yep, the Luxeon Z and UV are the same package, 1.3mm x 1.7mm. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 The cluster possibilities ... o.o Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 It wouldn't even be a cluster at that point! Link to comment
Horerczy Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 I wonder how they would do in a 5x5 configuration on a single board with five channels. Something like the lumia 5.2 only without the current limitations of the exotics line of leds. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 They would do fine IMHO. The Luxeon UV are rated up to 135°C, the Luxeon Z are 135-150°C depending on the product (the shades of red are hte lowest rated). Those are absolute maximum temperatures, but on a copper PCB and good cooling like the Lumia needs, it would have the same or better thermals. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 I'm gettin' antsy! Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.