CNCreef Asis Pro 824 LED/T5HO Evil Cluster Hybrid

[jedimasterben]

Even though you have a 29" deep tank, I don't think you'd get much benefit with the 1350 over the 950. With the PAR numbers that my fixture gives per heatsink (600+ at around 30"), the 950 is more than enough lol.

 

Make a new thread about it and we'll help you out.

[DIstudio]

BEN!

 

i'm back hehehe

 

now, build me a killer light damnit.

[jedimasterben]

[MeepNand]

While I have your attention, and seeing as to how this thread is now "advice on evil clusters"....

does this chip look any good? http://www.newark.com/bridgelux/bxrc-40e2000-c-03/led-hb-vero-white-2000lm-4000k/dp/62W5821?in_merch=Popular%20Products

It gets 2000lm at 500ma, 2x as much as a 950b. And 109lm/w at the test current.

I wanted to use one to light my 44 gallon.

 

EDIT: Also, where can I find a 40E0950 datasheet? I can't find it, on google or newark.

DOUBLE EDIT: Or just use one of these: http://www.newark.com/bridgelux/bxrc-40e4000-f-03/led-hb-vero-white-4000lm-4000k/dp/62W5822?in_merch=Popular%20Products

[jedimasterben]

Take a look at the PAR numbers that I get from the 1350.... I don't think you'd need more than that lol.

[MeepNand]

Looking at the 40E1350 on Newark, I calculated at the full 1000ma driver current I would only get 2000 lumens, half as much as a 40E4000 at the test current, and I want to accomplish an Evil cluster with a single array.

Can I use it at all? I have a surface area of 535in2 on my tnak.

[jedimasterben]

Your tank is the 22" x 22" x 24" pentagon, right? Check out this post here: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/323517-building-an-evil-cluster-diy-led-on-steroids/?p=4353709

[MeepNand]

Your tank is the 22" x 22" x 24" pentagon, right? Check out this post here: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/323517-building-an-evil-cluster-diy-led-on-steroids/?p=4353709

Oh, wow. I forgot all about those readings.

Thanks Jedi! Now I know what to get.

[Confuse]

Bump! Who else is building an Evil Cluster? Since I built mine, I ditched the Jarduino controller for the Storm controller and I've been playing with the colors all this time and am getting closer to a look that I like. I also added a diffuser sheet that they use in fluorescent lighting and helped with the color blending. I'm having some algae issues, so pictures will have to wait. But colors really pop.

[evilc66]

I am, but it's a little different Details soon. Don't worry.

 

Put it this way, I had to trump the original somehow

[jedimasterben]

I can't wait for the howitzer.

[evilc66]

It's getting close. I had to do a lot of custom work to get it the way I want it, but it's looking good. Haven't fired up the whole system yet though. Finding time to complete it has been tough, between other LED projects (my mind is constantly working on new concepts), work, and a 7 month old baby. MAYBE, I might get some pictures snapped this weekend.

[Giga]

I'm doing a pseudo cluster as well, what with my ac blowing up, 2 month old baby, work n other stuff I'm in the same boat as evil. But mine was capable of throwing out 25000 lumens and after burning a hole threw my ceiling I thought "maybe that's to much" lol. Mine more to simulate tropical sun for mangrove so it need to throw a little more light. More detail to come

[MeepNand]

I'll probably do an Evil Cluster for my new tank. The leds are much cheaper than usual ($10 for a BXRA-40E1350) and they spit out a ton of light. And my next tank theme needs a point-source light to look good I think.

[evilc66]

I'm doing a pseudo cluster as well, what with my ac blowing up, 2 month old baby, work n other stuff I'm in the same boat as evil. But mine was capable of throwing out 25000 lumens and after burning a hole threw my ceiling I thought "maybe that's to much" lol. Mine more to simulate tropical sun for mangrove so it need to throw a little more light. More detail to come

25,000 lumens? Is that a typo? Even at 100lm/W efficiency, that's a 250W array.

[Giga]

I don't want to spill the beans on my current project yet- it's not a typo and it was just under 200w. Pm me if you want the details

[jedimasterben]

Hey everyone, guess what....

Of course, I managed to accidentally pop off half a dozen lenses, so I'm having to re-silicone them on, but tomorrow after work, she's getting hung

 

Also, I put the LDD boards inside the very top slot of the Makers. They'll not only be close to the LEDs, but they'll get airflow from the fans, so they'll stay nice and cool. Won't be easy if I need to change out one of them (the boards have a bit of silicone holding them in place), but shouldn't need to.

[MeepNand]

Also, I put the LDD boards inside the very top slot of the Makers. They'll not only be close to the LEDs, but they'll get airflow from the fans, so they'll stay nice and cool. Won't be easy if I need to change out one of them (the boards have a bit of silicone holding them in place), but shouldn't need to.

My LDDs never get hot, or even slightly warm to the touch. But I keep them at 70% or lower.

[jedimasterben]

My 700mA ones did get warm to the touch when I was testing out the Lumia running it 24/7 to see how hot it got, but not 'hot' per se. Active cooling is best for everything, though.

[Chris L]

Hey everyone, guess what....

 

 

Of course, I managed to accidentally pop off half a dozen lenses, so I'm having to re-silicone them on, but tomorrow after work, she's getting hung

 

Also, I put the LDD boards inside the very top slot of the Makers. They'll not only be close to the LEDs, but they'll get airflow from the fans, so they'll stay nice and cool. Won't be easy if I need to change out one of them (the boards have a bit of silicone holding them in place), but shouldn't need to.

Hurts so good!

[rhcpnut1]

Awesome work you guys, Ben and the rest of yinz have inspired me to jump on the evil crazy train

[jedimasterben]

Got it hung and up and running. My grandpa didn't put the eye bolts in the right places, so I was freaking out for a bit when I went to hang it up (my blood sugar also measured around 50, so that explains why I couldn't come up with a solution). My dad suggested just swapping around the non-eye-bolts and they'd line up properly and should hang without twisting. Got home ~30 minutes ago and BOOM!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The light is not perfectly level from front to back, but it is just a couple of degrees off, which I'm fine with.

 

As for looks, it's pretty damn awesome, but it shows how absolutely terrible I seem to be at planning and execution. Wires still running everywhere, not planning out where the power supply for the fans would go and where their wires would chill out, etc. Next array will probably be 'standard' heatsinks with a bit of a wood wrap, kinda like my old 'canopy', but slim this time (just a couple of inches tall).

 

I also either didn't do my angle calculations correctly, or the angle of the heatsinks is farther off that I'm thinking it is, as the far left and right edges of the tank are dimmer than the center, and PAR is around 1/3-1/4

 

 

I changed the LDD that the arrays run on. PAR would have been astronomical with all 1000mA (700mA for the violet). I am running the four BXRA at 500mA each (in parallel on one 1000mA LDD), the 12 M at 700mA each (on three LDD), the cyan and blue Rebels at 1000mA (each their own LDD), and the HV at 700mA (on two LDD). I ended up only needing two LDD boards and only one 7.3A power supply instead of two, so that is nice.

 

As it is, with all the LEDs at 100%, it is a nice crisp white with a blue tint. The above pictures are damned friggin terrible. On top of that, I took the old lights down at 5:30 and didn't get these lights on until 9ish, so the corals were all closed and the fish were mostly asleep. Color banding is minimal, but shimmer is as expected with LEDs.

 

For PAR, measuring all LED strings at the same time, and not correcting, in the center 24" of the tank, it is an even 500 PAR, and the height of the sensor didn't seem to matter much, PAR only drops by 25 or so going from 3" under the water to 9" under. Going off-center from that 24" area, PAR drops off very quickly, going down to around 100-150 on the edges of the tank. The edges are noticeably dimmer, but edge-PAR is still better than most people's lighting

 

 

Overall, I'm happy, and it is definitely different and will take some getting used to, but I like it and it looks like a definitively positive change.

[Chris L]

Hey Ben,

 

Have you ever tested par on the 5000k Lux M's?

[DaveFason]

let me know if you ever need sleeving. I try to only use the best from MDPC and it shows once you have it all finished. I know this would be a task but would REALLY clean up the look. Now you can appriciate the time and thought it takes to keep a clean look

 

-Dave

[jedimasterben]

Hey Ben,

 

Have you ever tested par on the 5000k Lux M's?

I have not, but they're roughly 4.5 times as strong as a Rebel ES.

 

let me know if you ever need sleeving. I try to only use the best from MDPC and it shows once you have it all finished. I know this would be a task but would REALLY clean up the look. Now you can appriciate the time and thought it takes to keep a clean look -Dave

I have always appreciated the finished look of your stuff - it's something that I, uh, well, obviously never quite got the hang of

 

Unfortunately, the part the wife hates the most is the look of the heatsinks and their mount. The wires I actually do have some black sleeving for, I slipped some of it on, and she still didn't like it. She wants something like the old white canopy again, so I'm gonna have to oblige. This time it'll be very thin, around 3" or so, just enough to cover the heatsinks, fans, and optics, instead of the 36"x18"x12" behemoth I made last time.