CNCreef Asis Pro 824 LED/T5HO Evil Cluster Hybrid

[evilc66]

That project? Subjects are in. Waiting on tools.

[jedimasterben]

Very nice! Looking forward to it!

[CrazyEyes]

Where do you all buy those optics for the Bridgelux chips?

[jedimasterben]

Newark has the Brooke for the BXRA and Mouser has the Minnie for the M. Make sure you get the right ones, some attach to the LEDs by tape, some need the Molex connector to attach to.

[Horerczy]

 

Newark has the Brooke for the BXRA and Mouser has the Minnie for the M. Make sure you get the right ones, some attach to the LEDs by tape, some need the Molex connector to attach to.

Im pretty sure Newark has the Minnie as well. At least I don't remember ordering my Minnie www from mouser.

[jedimasterben]

..... bastards didn't have them on their website when I ordered mine, but there they are.

 

WWW (63°) http://www.newark.com/ledil/ca12240-minnie-www-mtg-assy/led-reflector-cree-led-mt-g/dp/86T5841

 

W (29°) http://www.newark.com/ledil/c11862-minnie-w/led-reflector-18-cree-mtg/dp/83T0841

 

M (21°) http://www.newark.com/ledil/ca12239-minnie-m-mtg-assy/led-reflector-cree-led-mt-g/dp/86T5840

[cichlidtx]

Is there a different P/N for the holders as the ones I ordered didn't come with them?

[jedimasterben]

Oh, that's right, i keep forgetting the Minnie has two kinds, too.

 

The WWW and M I linked above both have the holders - the W does not, and I can't even find the W for sale at all at Mouser.

[CrazyEyes]

Two things, and please forgive me. Just by looking around it seems that each LED chip might have a different degree optics. Also, and obviously this is quote more involved than someone to just buy LEDs from Rapid or LEDgroupbuy but, it doesn't seem like it's too much expensive to go this route.

[jedimasterben]

The LEDs are cheaper overall, as you need less of them. One Bridgelux 950B at 1000ma (22w) emits over 2000 lumens and costs $5.73, one Cree XT-E at 1000ma (3w) emits over 300 lumens and costs $3.70. Basically, you need seven XT-E to equal one Bridgelux, so the power use and lumens are about the same, but Bridgelux is over $20 cheaper.

 

The Luxeon M emits almost exactly 4.5 times the amount of light versus an XT-E royal. The M costs $11, the XT-E costs $3.25, so over $3 less to get the same light.

 

Now that I know the Minnie can be purchased at Newark, it's a little better.

[CrazyEyes]

The only thing this thread is doing aside from sharing great knowledge, it's making me want to redo my LED light. Definitely makes my 32 Cree light look like childs play.

[jedimasterben]

[CrazyEyes]

I just have to figure out to do something like this without the ole lady catching wind of it. Also, and sorry all the questions/comments but, are you running optics on the 3w stars? If not does it look weird that some have optics and some don't? Also, I know this would be super overkill for a 40B but after looking at the depth of your tank I figured I wouldn't want to do much less than you did on your 80g. And quantities for a 40B with the intent to keep SPS?

[dacdaddy]

I was using 96%Sn-4%Si solder today and they were a real b**ch to solder. I saw stevesleds recommends more 60Sn/40Pb. You think that will help em stick better? Experimented with a 700mA driver and boy they are bright!

 

Jedi is it really ok to keep em at max current 1000mA? How much life would they lose ? Any other cons to running them at max current?

[jedimasterben]

I just have to figure out to do something like this without the ole lady catching wind of it. Also, and sorry all the questions/comments but, are you running optics on the 3w stars? If not does it look weird that some have optics and some don't? Also, I know this would be super overkill for a 40B but after looking at the depth of your tank I figured I wouldn't want to do much less than you did on your 80g. And quantities for a 40B with the intent to keep SPS?

I don't know if I will run optics on them yet. I'd much prefer reflectors, but there aren't many that are readily available.

 

Cut mine in half for my big tank build and you're set for a 40B.

 

I was using 96%Sn-4%Si solder today and they were a real b**ch to solder. I saw stevesleds recommends more 60Sn/40Pb. You think that will help em stick better? Experimented with a 700mA driver and boy they are bright!

Solder without lead doesn't melt very easy usually. I actually really like the stuff Steve sells. I tried to buy a spool of it, but the place I was ordering from was out and had no ETA, so I didn't get it.

 

EDIT: FOUND SOME! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T8N1QI/ref=gno_cart_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

Jedi is it really ok to keep em at max current 1000mA? How much life would they lose ? Any other cons to running them at max current?

1000mA is fine as long as they're kept cool, which any adequately sized heatsink and fan combo will have. They're slightly less efficient, but not bad.

 

 

 

 

ALSO - Steve's finally has 63° Ledil Minnie in! http://shop.stevesleds.com/Luxeon-M-Reflector-LEDiL-63-LEDil-63-reflector.htm

[cichlidtx]

I was using 96%Sn-4%Si solder today and they were a real b**ch to solder. I saw stevesleds recommends more 60Sn/40Pb. You think that will help em stick better? Experimented with a 700mA driver and boy they are bright

 

That solder is very difficult with low wattage irons. SN96 has a melting point of 217F and the SN60/Pb40 is closer to 183F. We don't need to be ROHS compliant for our fixtures. Just needs good wetting.

[dacdaddy]

Looking for advice on heatsink length. I'm up to 95% sure I'm going with the makers Heatsink because I cant find any other DIY sink that looks as clean and professional. I dont want it to look like I slapped some s**t together, but if there are any other options anyone thinks are good, im all ears.

 

Now the jist, Ill be running the light on a 57 rimless, 36x18x20. I am trying to figure out if I should go with 2 12" sinks, 1-24", 2 -18"s 1-36"?

 

I'm pretty sure 24" of heatsink, whether its split in 2-12's or not, is enough heatsink for a 36" long. Any help with pros cons or experiences greatly appreciated!

[jedimasterben]

The 24 is fine, and will look beastly. Just got my two 18s and a 12 in today. I'm building quite the collection lol.

 

Realistically, you could do 2x of the 6" heatsinks and be fine, they can dissipate a stupid amount of heat, but I like to err on the side of caution and have two fans, so I do 12" or more.

[jedimasterben]

Aaaaand just because I'm not done, I ordered the last bits I need. A few more LEDs, terminal blocks (to make the wiring inside the heatsink neater), more solder, wire, and I swear that should be it, and this is rolling.

[jedimasterben]

Oh, also an aluminum extrusion from Inventables to attach the two MakersLED heatsinks over the main tank.

 

[MeepNand]

Oh, also an aluminum extrusion from Inventables to attach the two MakersLED heatsinks over the main tank.

 

That's bosch tubing. My local robotics club uses it for the base of our robot.

You can find it in a lot of places.

[CrazyEyes]

That's not a bad price for that. $28 for a 60"x40mm piece . I've seen people use 1"x1" aluminum square tubing and U channel for Diy heatsinks. I think these would be really cool for a heatsink. They might not be anywhere near as sleek and downright badass as the Makers but it would be a neat cheaper alternative to it. Especially since you can buy the end caps and gussets.

[dacdaddy]

Aaaaand just because I'm not done, I ordered the last bits I need. A few more LEDs, terminal blocks (to make the wiring inside the heatsink neater), more solder, wire, and I swear that should be it, and this is rolling.

 

Terminal blocks I'm interested to see how you neaten things up with them

[dacdaddy]

For anyone with experience with all the spectrums of the violet. the TV 405nm, SemiLED 420nm, and the HV 430nm. From what I gather, 430nm is the peak for chlorophyll a. What are the benefits of the lower spectrum 405 and 420? Is it true the fluorescence is better the lower down you go?

[jedimasterben]

Not particularly. The vast majority of fluorescent proteins absorb in the 415-480nm range. The lower you go, the more is reflected off of particulates, and the less output in mW you're going to have, as well (typically).