CNCreef Asis Pro 824 LED/T5HO Evil Cluster Hybrid

[evilc66]

One LDD-100HW can run two 950's either in series or four in parallel (if you want reduced output per LED, but increased output overall). It's all dependent on the power supply at that point.

[Confuse]

How do I go about choosing a power supply to run a 950-B, three luxeon M's, 3 cool blue and two cyan?

[jedimasterben]

So i took my mini-monster, without reflectors, to a couple of LFS. They were blown away by it, especially from so few LEDs, and nearly shit themselves when I told them the PAR readings.

[dacdaddy]

that was just the 1 bridgelux and the 4 M's? thats mint.

 

I rec'd a Steves order, but now im overthinking. I got a ratio of 2 M's and 2 RB ES per BXRA 950. We'll see if that'll be enough blue...

[beebes]

So i took my mini-monster, without reflectors, to a couple of LFS. They were blown away by it, especially from so few LEDs, and nearly shit themselves when I told them the PAR readings.

 

Little do you know, your lights are so bright because they're drawing energy from an adjacent dimension, ruining the lives of countless souls on the other side..

[dacdaddy]

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/semiconductors/lighting-solutions/light-engine-led-assemblies/single-led/Pages/9019504-REBEL-STAR-M-SW40.aspx?IM=0

 

Are these the same Luxeon M's that are on the big chips at stevesleds?

[jedimasterben]

How do I go about choosing a power supply to run a 950-B, three luxeon M's, 3 cool blue and two cyan?

Figure out what kind of drivers you want (Inventronics, Meanwell LDD, etc), calculate the forward voltage of each string, and divide that by how many volts the drivers give.

 

that was just the 1 bridgelux and the 4 M's? thats mint.

 

I rec'd a Steves order, but now im overthinking. I got a ratio of 2 M's and 2 RB ES per BXRA 950. We'll see if that'll be enough blue...

I used the 1350, not the 950. My 950 clusters will only have three M per at the same current. With four M, all at 1000ma still only netted around 14K from what I could tell, but with ####ing ridiculous actinic response. I ended up buying $100 in coral after seeing it under my light LOL

 

Little do you know, your lights are so bright because they're drawing energy from an adjacent dimension, ruining the lives of countless souls on the other side..

 

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/semiconductors/lighting-solutions/light-engine-led-assemblies/single-led/Pages/9019504-REBEL-STAR-M-SW40.aspx?IM=0

 

Are these the same Luxeon M's that are on the big chips at stevesleds?

Judging by the product number, those are the 70-CRI minimum LXW7 chips, Steve has only ordered LXW8, which are 80 CRI minimum.

[Horerczy]

Ben what is a good ratio of rb to cool blue to cyan with that cluster you threw together? Also would hanging the cyan on the same channel as cool blue mess with the color rendering a lot?

[dacdaddy]

jedi, how many power supplies are you going to have to run for your 4 cluster build?

 

On LED groupbuy the power supplies are 250w, 5.2A... so that can power 5-1000mA drivers

 

Is this power supply essentially identical but can handle more current, ie up to 7-1000mA drivers?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-48V-DC-7-3A-350-4W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-/110773284133?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19ca9a2d25

[jedimasterben]

Ben what is a good ratio of rb to cool blue to cyan with that cluster you threw together? Also would hanging the cyan on the same channel as cool blue mess with the color rendering a lot?

I'm using two blue for every three M or so, but I haven't wired any of those up yet.

 

I run everything separately so I can fine tune.

 

jedi, how many power supplies are you going to have to run for your 4 cluster build?

 

On LED groupbuy the power supplies are 250w, 5.2A... so that can power 5-1000mA drivers

 

Is this power supply essentially identical but can handle more current, ie up to 7-1000mA drivers?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-48V-DC-7-3A-350-4W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-/110773284133?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19ca9a2d25'>http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-48V-DC-7-3A-350-4W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-/110773284133?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19ca9a2d25

 

I use the eBay one. I have the LEDGroupBuy one because I was sent one with the MakersDriver, they should all work the same.

 

I'm using two of the 7.3A supplies to run my whole build, depending on how I do the clam tank. I am also running my fuge and algae scrubbers off of them.

[dacdaddy]

 

I use the eBay one. I have the LEDGroupBuy one because I was sent one with the MakersDriver, they should all work the same.

 

I'm using two of the 7.3A supplies to run my whole build, depending on how I do the clam tank. I am also running my fuge and algae scrubbers off of them.

What in the fuge are you connecting to the PS that you wouldn't plug in wall outlet? Small light fixture?

 

Would adding a red whiten up the cool blue/cyan to the point it would necessitate another cool blue to match a redless color rendering?

[jedimasterben]

What in the fuge are you connecting to the PS that you wouldn't plug in wall outlet? Small light fixture?

 

and

 

 

 

Would adding a red whiten up the cool blue/cyan to the point it would necessitate another cool blue to match a redless color rendering?

I'm not adding red at all.

[cichlidtx]

jedi, how many power supplies are you going to have to run for your 4 cluster build?

 

On LED groupbuy the power supplies are 250w, 5.2A... so that can power 5-1000mA drivers

 

Is this power supply essentially identical but can handle more current, ie up to 7-1000mA drivers?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-48V-DC-7-3A-350-4W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-/110773284133?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19ca9a2d25

If your interested this the PS that I use and appears to be similar but a few $ cheaper. Gives extra $ for another LDD.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-DC-7-3A-350W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-Top-Quality-/171033105241?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d25e1359

[MeepNand]

 

and

 

 

 

I'm not adding red at all.

Just double checking: Those are fuge lights? I'm pretty sure you have a 50g fuge or something.

[just a noob]

How much longer until the fried clam is ready?

[dacdaddy]

[quote name="jedimasterben"

 

 

I'm not adding red at all.

 

I remembered that, but theoretically, I know they say the red/cb/cyan becomes white. I was wondering if that combo when tripled ultimately washes out the cb color if it were by itself. I know, real nitpicky question:)

 

If your interested this the PS that I use and appears to be similar but a few $ cheaper. Gives extra $ for another LDD.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-DC-7-3A-350W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-Top-Quality-/171033105241?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d25e1359'>http://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-DC-7-3A-350W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-Top-Quality-/171033105241?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d25e1359

. Thanks!

[Tripwyr]

. Thanks!

 

In a Rebel ES based setup, the Cyan tends to heavily overpower the red and cool blue. Yes red would whiten it a little bit, but it is unlikely the colour would blend very well.

[jedimasterben]

If your interested this the PS that I use and appears to be similar but a few $ cheaper. Gives extra $ for another LDD.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-DC-7-3A-350W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-Top-Quality-/171033105241?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d25e1359

That's the one I used - I couldn't remember where I got it or how much it was, but I thought the first one they linked was more money than I paid lol.

 

Just double checking: Those are fuge lights? I'm pretty sure you have a 50g fuge or something.

The fuge is a section of a 40B, about 1/3rd of it. Was even more, almost 2/3 of it, but I downsized it so I could fit a skimmer and algae scrubber.

 

How much longer until the fried clam is ready?

It'll still be a while, honestly. I still have to get off my butt and get a LOT done. I'm gonna order the Makers heatsinks soon, though. I still wish they were a bit wider than they are, that 5.8" or so isn't very much when dealing with these massive-ass chips

 

I remembered that, but theoretically, I know they say the red/cb/cyan becomes white. I was wondering if that combo when tripled ultimately washes out the cb color if it were by itself. I know, real nitpicky question:)

Yes, it does wash out the blue color - it becomes a super bright white. I'm not using red because I do not think I will need it, the Bridgelux should cover it nicely without the need for a separate chip, especially since deep red is hard as hell to blend together.

 

In a Rebel ES based setup, the Cyan tends to heavily overpower the red and cool blue. Yes red would whiten it a little bit, but it is unlikely the colour would blend very well.

Only at low currents does the cyan overpower on a triple star with CB and DR. As soon as current hits about 300ma it looks white, and just gets brighter from there.

[dacdaddy]

Should be. I would just make sure that the center of the Bridgelux and M PCB (where the LED is) is on the heatsink and not over one of the t-slots. And it all depends on how many others you have. Remember that this cluster is a 1350-B, not a 950-B, with four M.

 

 

Nope - I never actually attached the optics. It's sitting on the table facing the ceiling and I just set the optics down.

 

The color it makes is pretty stellar - about 14K, and it really wasn't purple.

 

To dim these, I am using a Makersdriver that Milad sent me to review. Potentiometer and 0-10v control for LDD, and it powers the fan, too. The potentiometer still dims them to 0, too.

 

A. How much worse would it be if the PCB was over the slot instead of on the sink? How much better is the aluminum at dissipating heat than air?

 

B. How's the makers driver treating you?

[jedimasterben]

A. How much worse would it be if the PCB was over the slot instead of on the sink? How much better is the aluminum at dissipating heat than air?

 

The slots on the Makers heatsink are only 20mm wide - compare that to the 30mm boards the M are on. I am cautious and running the M with the diode directly on the aluminum slot and not over the gap. I don't think it will be a problem since the PCB is copper and is a friggin BEAST, but I don't have the balls to test it out and lose an $11 chip.

 

B. How's the makers driver treating you?

It's good. I don't see them selling like wildfire at this point, and I don't think they will at the price point they're at. They're only good for nano setups that will not use more than just a few LEDs and you want two channels of control.

[dacdaddy]

It's good. I don't see them selling like wildfire at this point, and I don't think they will at the price point they're at. They're only good for nano setups that will not use more than just a few LEDs and you want two channels of control.

I spoke with Milad, he was trying to sell me on these, since they come with 2 LDD's inside. I figure I would need 5 or 6 LDD's, so he was telling me 3 makersDrivers would be an option. I am just having trouble finding a cheaper way to do it and having the color selectivity I want.

[jedimasterben]

Do you have a PWM controller?

[dacdaddy]

I have no controller, and I don't know the nitty gritty of different signals/types. The current thought was maybe link up a makersController with the makersDriver until I got an Apex

[jedimasterben]

If you're planning on a full reef controller, I'd skip an LED controller.

[bpaston]

Tina's showed up today...check them out I will try to get some pics of these reflectors vs TIR vs no optic, so we can see what benefit these may or may not provide to the evil cluster.