dacdaddy Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 JEDI I see in your item list you have 8xMeanwell LDD-1000HW. I assume there you are running 2 of these per cluster? Which way are you running each cluster? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 3, 2013 Author Share Posted May 3, 2013 One LDD with 48v input has about 45v to work with on the LEDs. That 45v can push four Luxeon M, or two Bridgelux 950, or one 1350, or 15x cool blue or cyan. Oh shit. I calculated them wrong. ####. I need one more driver. Link to comment
dacdaddy Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 Glad my noobery helped you realize. Which colors were you grouping together? I was thinking Luxeon Ms separate from the CB/Cyan/HV separate from the 950? ah, man, the questions. I am trying to figure out the differences bt the meanwell models. The link the spec sheet on led groupbuy is just for the general H models. What does the 300 or 1000 mean, as well as h and hw? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 3, 2013 Author Share Posted May 3, 2013 I will not be running any LEDs on the same strings, all have their own driver. For LDD, the number is the current it gives, and the H means pins only and HW means wired. Link to comment
Chris S Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 Jedi, You have inspiried me to rework my current fixture into an evil cluster. It's for a 120g 48x24x24 lights approx 12" off the surface but adjustable. I want to reuse my rebel es RB's to supplement the Bridgelux 950's. I'm going to start with four 950's. What I'm trying to figure out is how many RB's per 950. I'll be running the 950's at 1000mA. Planning on 1000mA for the RB's as well. Based on my math and reading several threads I'm coming up with anywhere from 8 to 16 RB per 950. Also how many cool blues and or cyan's do you recommend? I was thinking 2 or 3 CB and one Cyan per cluster. I also have 12 TV leds from Steve's and I was thinking of adding another 12 HV. My current setup is using 60 deg optics and I was planning on using them again. Do you see any issues with that? Thanks for posting your build. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 3, 2013 Author Share Posted May 3, 2013 I want to get a higher color temp than the normal evil cluster, so I went with 3x M per 950 (I also wanna try and fry some clams LOL). Each M puts out about 6300mW at 1000ma, which is about 12x Rebel ES royals. By my calculations, that should take net somewhere around a 16K color temp with all at 100%. Link to comment
bpaston Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 So jedi I see you are using the molex to hold down the 950b, what are you planning on using to hold down the luxeon m's? Also what optics are you using on the cool blues and cyans would they happen to be ledils also? I received my last pieces today to start setting up this fixture, but I plan on running it with some old meanwell eln's I have laying around before I spend money on switching over to the ldd setup. Any reason you perfer one over the other? Thanks Blasterman Jedi said you may be able to answer this question, on the 950b's they have numbers in the corner the two I received came in with different numbers 06 and 15 I belive...what does this indicate? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 4, 2013 Author Share Posted May 4, 2013 The Minnie reflectors for the M have some sort of sticky stuff on them to hold them, but I'm also gonna use a little silicone to hold them. I would use Ledil reflectors for everything if I could find them for the smaller diodes, but I can't find anyone that really stocks them. Why do I prefer the LDD over the ELN? Cost is less than half to use LDD over ELN. Link to comment
bpaston Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 The Minnie reflectors for the M have some sort of sticky stuff on them to hold them, but I'm also gonna use a little silicone to hold them. I would use Ledil reflectors for everything if I could find them for the smaller diodes, but I can't find anyone that really stocks them. Why do I prefer the LDD over the ELN? Cost is less than half to use LDD over ELN. I meant how are you affixing the m's to your heat sink. Thermal pads? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 4, 2013 Author Share Posted May 4, 2013 Oh lol. Possibly drilling and tapping. May just use thermal adhesive. Link to comment
McJosh13 Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Jedi, Boards are in! Component Parts List: IC Socket: http://www.ebay.com/itm/160469976605?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Terminal Blocks: http://www.ebay.com/itm/150979724516?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Resistors: http://www.ebay.com/itm/300697696208?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Pin Headers: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321097290243?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Jumpers: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221161746309?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 4, 2013 Author Share Posted May 4, 2013 FRIGGIN SWEET! You're awesome Josh! Link to comment
bpaston Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Jedi in order to drill and tap the m's in place do you plan on drilling through the actual mcpcb they are mounted on? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 5, 2013 Author Share Posted May 5, 2013 blasterman's comparison of Ledil reflectors - http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/326226-bridgelux-ledil-reflectors-compared/ Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 5, 2013 Author Share Posted May 5, 2013 I am planning on programming my Reef angel to make the lights somewhat mimic this graph. See the article here: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/5/aafeature Link to comment
laatto3 Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 Hi Jedi, would you consider doing a comparison of the ledil Minnie's for us the same way blasterman did the Brooke's? Please? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 Sure - I'll have to wait until I can get my hands on my sister's DSLR, my phone does not appreciate LEDs, especially since I've only got RB Luxeons. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 I'm itching to get this started (and finished) and get my tank moved, but I can't really use the new light until I get the tank moved. Doesn't mean I can't have it all together, though! Anyone have any recommendations on what to cover the heasinks and everything with? Should I make a single housing to cover both heatsinks (would need to be about 5ft long or so) or two separate ones? I kinda wish i had gone with the Asis heatsinks so I wouldn't have to cover them, but that's a heaping load of money Link to comment
dacdaddy Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 http://reefledlights.com/shop/reef-optics-housing/ You may have seen this before, but I think it looks pretty sharp and am considering it for my build Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 http://reefledlights.com/shop/reef-optics-housing/ You may have seen this before, but I think it looks pretty sharp and am considering it for my build Expensive as #### considering it doesn't come with the heatsinks. Link to comment
MeepNand Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Perhaps you could get a friend to make one out of wood? IMO, a single 5' bar hanging over the tank would look better than 2 separate things. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 I would just get a few of these if I was gonna spend that much coin. http://cncreef.com/ Perhaps you could get a friend to make one out of wood? IMO, a single 5' bar hanging over the tank would look better than 2 separate things. I can make that no problem (I made the one I have now), but was just looking for options that may look better Link to comment
MeepNand Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Is that a link to a CNC heatsink? Ballers. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 Yeah, they're ultra sexy. Just wish it didn't cost a lotta moolah for them. Link to comment
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