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ZephNYC

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jedimaster1138

That copperband is insanely gorgeous. I'm going to be seriously tempted by one when the 120g is up.

 

If you are in the market for a small sump (15g) let me know...once my conversion is complete in like a month or 2, I'm going to have a ghetto one taking up space :)

 

Also, I know I"m behind, but that clam education article you posted Zeph? I read it twice already and might be about to read it again. Awesome stuff.

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That copperband is insanely gorgeous. I'm going to be seriously tempted by one when the 120g is up.

 

If you are in the market for a small sump (15g) let me know...once my conversion is complete in like a month or 2, I'm going to have a ghetto one taking up space :)

 

Also, I know I"m behind, but that clam education article you posted Zeph? I read it twice already and might be about to read it again. Awesome stuff.

Thanks for the offer on the sump. That clam article is really perfect, and reveals all the latest info on clams, such as DKH. The new trend in clam keeping is a somewhat low DKH not over 8. They recommend 7.9. I have always suspected clams like lower DKH and it may be one of my problems as I have found clams actually do better in somewhat softer water and salinity. My gigas get very upset when the salinity goes over 1.023. WHen I keep it at 1.025 - 1.026 she starts kissing the lights above her. Big wet sloppy kisses. Out of all the thousands of clam, books and articles I have read ( that pretty much say all the same traditional info) this one confirms many suspicions I have had and observed in my own clams. It is also the first article I have come across backing up my opinion on farm raised /aquacultued clams vs. wild caught. Most clam deaths in our aquariums are not our fault and can be blamed on collection methods.

See you soon buddy, Remind me when we are hanging out and I can help you w/ your tank. was is Sunday the 27 th???

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jedimaster1138

Thanks for the offer on the sump. That clam article is really perfect, and reveals all the latest info on clams, such as DKH. The new trend in clam keeping is a somewhat low DKH not over 8. They recommend 7.9. I have always suspected clams like lower DKH and it may be one of my problems as I have found clams actually do better in somewhat softer water and salinity. My gigas get very upset when the salinity goes over 1.023. WHen I keep it at 1.025 - 1.026 she starts kissing the lights above her. Big wet sloppy kisses. Out of all the thousands of clam, books and articles I have read ( that pretty much say all the same traditional info) this one confirms many suspicions I have had and observed in my own clams. It is also the first article I have come across backing up my opinion on farm raised /aquacultued clams vs. wild caught. Most clam deaths in our aquariums are not our fault and can be blamed on collection methods.

See you soon buddy, Remind me when we are hanging out and I can help you w/ your tank. was is Sunday the 27 th???

 

Yeah man, for sure about the sump. Once the 50g is broken down ( I plan on using it to QT a few new fish after the 120g is up for a while ) the sump will just have to get taken to my parents' house or something and get shoved in the basement. My tiny apartment can't store much. Actually, in a similar topic, the 50g itself will need a home too, as will my ghetto stand, so, I guess let's talk about that too.

 

I'm going to PM you "the plan" because I definitely want more opinions on how you think it's going to go, what's best, etc. But short version is yeah, I think the 27th is the day I need the most help. 26th is just a day to catch and move fish (ack).

 

Have I thanked you in advance enough yet? :)

 

Back to clam keeping....

 

I think i'm going to endeavor to keep my new tank at 1.024. I've kept this one at 1.025, but this is not the first time i've seen 1.023 or 1.024 being a better #. I also like that dKH #. I think a lot of people over do it on the alkalinity (myself included). I've also found that I have WAAAAAAAAY less algae problems with high Magnesium....like >1400 mag. I had been keeping it around 1280-1300, but it seems like my algae melted away and my corals colored up when I (not completely intentionally) boosted Mag to 1400ish. What do you keep Ca at? Mine is generally steady at 420-ish.

 

-other jedi

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Deleted User 3

If you behave i might send him to you. Just dont feed him to your RATS!

0o0o0o0o. I don't feed fish to my rats :P They get cooked small deveined shrimp frozen occasionally lol... thats about it.

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Yeah man, for sure about the sump. Once the 50g is broken down ( I plan on using it to QT a few new fish after the 120g is up for a while ) the sump will just have to get taken to my parents' house or something and get shoved in the basement. My tiny apartment can't store much. Actually, in a similar topic, the 50g itself will need a home too, as will my ghetto stand, so, I guess let's talk about that too.

 

I'm going to PM you "the plan" because I definitely want more opinions on how you think it's going to go, what's best, etc. But short version is yeah, I think the 27th is the day I need the most help. 26th is just a day to catch and move fish (ack).

 

Have I thanked you in advance enough yet? :)

 

Back to clam keeping....

 

I think i'm going to endeavor to keep my new tank at 1.024. I've kept this one at 1.025, but this is not the first time i've seen 1.023 or 1.024 being a better #. I also like that dKH #. I think a lot of people over do it on the alkalinity (myself included). I've also found that I have WAAAAAAAAY less algae problems with high Magnesium....like >1400 mag. I had been keeping it around 1280-1300, but it seems like my algae melted away and my corals colored up when I (not completely intentionally) boosted Mag to 1400ish. What do you keep Ca at? Mine is generally steady at 420-ish.

 

-other jedi

 

in my big system my calcium is 420- 450 and my dkh runs a bit high at about 10, but i am slowly lowering it to 8. I like to keep my salinity right where you said, because if i keep it, or attempt to keep it - at 1.025 - 1.026, it sometimes winds up at 1.027 or so because most ( atleast mine) ATO's just keep it at ballpark range. Maybe because this system is about 500 gal. They might work better on smaller tnaks. Youre right about the magnesium and algea relationship. I actually dont know what mine is lately because i have been spending ridiculous amounts of time nitrate testing 3 different systems. I swear i ran out of a red sea nitrate test kit in 6 days. THis 30 gallon plant tank abouve will suck up 2ppm of nitrates in 24 hours, and never ever measures phosphates, even though I dont use gfo or any removers at all. I have been cutting back on new salt because I just use water from this tank instead, and switch it with dirty water from another tank.

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Here is something anyone thinking about purchasing a clam should know. I have been researching the life span of common tridacnids in nature and in aquaria. Did you know a Gigas clam can live well over 150 years ? anyway, i was looking for captive life spans, and SHOCKINGLY came across this info stated by fish pro Bob Fenner.

 

 

 

" I would state with certainty that "larger ones live longer"... And guess that one inchers on mean/average probably only make it a month, 1-3" probably 2-3 months (most are "killed off"), 3" ones probably 4-6 months... Some folks do keep any/all sizes for years... but most "don't make it">

 

Conclusion - Dont feel bad because your clam died. Its not your fault.

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jedimaster1138

Here is something anyone thinking about purchasing a clam should know. I have been researching the life span of common tridacnids in nature and in aquaria. Did you know a Gigas clam can live well over 150 years ? anyway, i was looking for captive life spans, and SHOCKINGLY came across this info stated by fish pro Bob Fenner.

 

 

 

" I would state with certainty that "larger ones live longer"... And guess that one inchers on mean/average probably only make it a month, 1-3" probably 2-3 months (most are "killed off"), 3" ones probably 4-6 months... Some folks do keep any/all sizes for years... but most "don't make it">

 

Conclusion - Dont feel bad because your clam died. Its not your fault.

 

Interesting. I have Fenner's big book, he's definitely a sharpie. I've always known, well not always, that clams less than 1.5" - 2" have a poor survival rate. (Yet ORA seems to release all their cultured clams for sale when they hit 1.5"...) But this is interesting in that it goes even further. I guess one can conclude that ... the bigger a clam you can buy out of the gate, the better off you are?

 

in my big system my calcium is 420- 450 and my dkh runs a bit high at about 10, but i am slowly lowering it to 8. I like to keep my salinity right where you said, because if i keep it, or attempt to keep it - at 1.025 - 1.026, it sometimes winds up at 1.027 or so because most ( atleast mine) ATO's just keep it at ballpark range. Maybe because this system is about 500 gal. They might work better on smaller tnaks. Youre right about the magnesium and algea relationship. I actually dont know what mine is lately because i have been spending ridiculous amounts of time nitrate testing 3 different systems. I swear i ran out of a red sea nitrate test kit in 6 days. THis 30 gallon plant tank abouve will suck up 2ppm of nitrates in 24 hours, and never ever measures phosphates, even though I dont use gfo or any removers at all. I have been cutting back on new salt because I just use water from this tank instead, and switch it with dirty water from another tank.

 

How do you handle ATO? In my current case, I just have 2 float switches plugged into the Apex, and some mediocre code that manages things. Basically I just require the lower switch (ie the real one) to be closed (ie the water is low) for at least 5 minutes before the pump can fire up. Then, after it does launch and fill into the sump with fresh water, I lock it out for 45 minutes. It's not the most elegant solution but it works out of necessity. The top switch is just a fall safe and it should always be closed...if it's open *uh oh* condition fires :)

 

The way my set up is, my ATO reservoir is on the other end of my stand, far from the return section of the sump. Because of this, I had to use an MJ600 to move the water because an Aqualifter or something else slow and peristaltic - ish just didn't have the oomph to move the water that distance (at least mine doesn't) This sucks because the Mj600 delivers the top off water in oh, 1 second, so that's kinda annoying. Probably shocks the system some and also results in the pump flipping more often than you'd like.

 

With the new tank, my reservoir is going to be in the stand, inches from the return section so things will be much better, including using a nice slow ATO pump and letting it fire at will (though keeping requirement that the switch be closed for some minutes to avoid the slosh condition).

 

Slower and more frequent topping off has to be better for the system. I'd love to know what my salinity does in the course of a typical day - especially in summer when I'm evaporating 3+ gallons a day. Too bad the salinity probe for the Apex is so fraking expensive. Speaking of, if you really wanted to be slick, you could tie in some salinity probe conditionals into your ATO... man that would be nifty. ..

 

I bet all that evaporation screws with the Ca, Mg, and dKH levels too...Man the more I think about this, how we are replacing evaporated water might just be the key to everything. Why didn't I think of this sooner...and I call myself a scientist...

 

 

Speaking of the new tank...holding tank is partially filled. I also got my Custom King sump yesterday...he's the man. This sump is a BEAST. it's as big as my current display tank :) I think I'll also employ it to hold fish/rock/coral during D-Day.

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Interesting. I have Fenner's big book, he's definitely a sharpie. I've always known, well not always, that clams less than 1.5" - 2" have a poor survival rate. (Yet ORA seems to release all their cultured clams for sale when they hit 1.5"...) But this is interesting in that it goes even further. I guess one can conclude that ... the bigger a clam you can buy out of the gate, the better off you are?

 

 

How do you handle ATO? In my current case, I just have 2 float switches plugged into the Apex, and some mediocre code that manages things. Basically I just require the lower switch (ie the real one) to be closed (ie the water is low) for at least 5 minutes before the pump can fire up. Then, after it does launch and fill into the sump with fresh water, I lock it out for 45 minutes. It's not the most elegant solution but it works out of necessity. The top switch is just a fall safe and it should always be closed...if it's open *uh oh* condition fires :)

 

The way my set up is, my ATO reservoir is on the other end of my stand, far from the return section of the sump. Because of this, I had to use an MJ600 to move the water because an Aqualifter or something else slow and peristaltic - ish just didn't have the oomph to move the water that distance (at least mine doesn't) This sucks because the Mj600 delivers the top off water in oh, 1 second, so that's kinda annoying. Probably shocks the system some and also results in the pump flipping more often than you'd like.

 

With the new tank, my reservoir is going to be in the stand, inches from the return section so things will be much better, including using a nice slow ATO pump and letting it fire at will (though keeping requirement that the switch be closed for some minutes to avoid the slosh condition).

 

Slower and more frequent topping off has to be better for the system. I'd love to know what my salinity does in the course of a typical day - especially in summer when I'm evaporating 3+ gallons a day. Too bad the salinity probe for the Apex is so fraking expensive. Speaking of, if you really wanted to be slick, you could tie in some salinity probe conditionals into your ATO... man that would be nifty. ..

 

I bet all that evaporation screws with the Ca, Mg, and dKH levels too...Man the more I think about this, how we are replacing evaporated water might just be the key to everything. Why didn't I think of this sooner...and I call myself a scientist...

 

 

Speaking of the new tank...holding tank is partially filled. I also got my Custom King sump yesterday...he's the man. This sump is a BEAST. it's as big as my current display tank :) I think I'll also employ it to hold fish/rock/coral during D-Day.

 

Well, i cant say for sure these days that 'bigger is always better " :P but it certainly was years ago when Iwas heavy HEAVY into buying clams. These days I have to admit I have not been having any luck with large insanely colored maximas, but far better luck with small aquacultured ones. But Im stuborn and keep trying. Back to the drawing board.

 

I LOVE salinity probes because I love digital read outs. I like to look at my tank and see the numbers flying by without having to do a thing. Its a shame those pinpoint calcium and nitrate digital monitors are complete garbage, not to mention well over $200. I have tried more than one of each and both wound up in the garbage. I have always had salinity probes controling my top offs, but now I use a new reef keeper elite net and the salinity probes have been recalled and are not available. So Im just running a regular ato w/ powerhead like everyone else.

You must have been scanning my brain when you mentioned top off water having more of an impact on our systems then we aknowledge. Because, and get this....i didnt even want to talk about it yet...ive been using NYC TAP WATER for my top offs and water changes. All I do is first run it overnight through a carbon/phosguard reactor. I did a 200 gallon water change with NYC tap a couple weeks ago, which is nearly a %50 water change, and nothing blinked. I dont pretend to know EVERYTHING that is in our tap, and what the media will/wont remove, but I do know it will carry more carbonates (DKH), calcium, iron, and certain other minerals found in our tap that carbon doesnt remove. I have also been looking for reliable information on exactly what and how good carbon removes certain items because it is teribbly confusing. SOme big names say carbon removed iodine and magnesium, and others say it does not. Here is the best referance I have found to date.

 

http://www.aquariumslife.com/saltwater-101/activated-carbon-in-aquarium/

 

THis is genius, as it clearly list what carbon is great, moderate, or sucks at removing.

 

Im looking forward to seeing your custom sump. Mine are always generic tank/sumps, but Im playing with an insane new nano idea and going to build the most high tech sump i can come up with. Im old school so i'll prolly be asking you for help. See you soon man!!!

 

hey Zeph, not a Tridacna but still awesome.

http://vimeo.com/16139835

What is it ??? I cant see a thing!!!!

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Ok, now I see it. yea...I would like to try them soon. THey are a puuurfect addition for my nano from hell because they look like fire. They usually only last a couple of months but maybe if I feed them the farm, like I do my other NPS, they might like me.

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Simply put, they die because they are an NPS, and most people can't keep NPS.

 

yup...also they can swim and run around your tank and get into lots of trouble. They do tend to settle down eventually but can totally wind up stuck in an anemone or something.

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Deleted User 3

My LFS has a flame scallop they've had for months now... I feel so bad for it. Well, I feel bad for all their stuff lol. Like the ferret in the 10 gal aquarium.. yeah. If I had money for a cage and vet bills and food I would so buy it. =\

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My LFS has a flame scallop they've had for months now... I feel so bad for it. Well, I feel bad for all their stuff lol. Like the ferret in the 10 gal aquarium.. yeah. If I had money for a cage and vet bills and food I would so buy it. =\

#1 rule in this hobby is never let your self become attached to animals in pet stores before you buy them, especially sick ones. If I took home every sick thing I saw in a pet store, I wouldn't have a home to go home to.
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Deleted User 3

#1 rule in this hobby is never let your self become attached to animals in pet stores before you buy them, especially sick ones. If I took home every sick thing I saw in a pet store, I wouldn't have a home to go home to.

exactly... lol. money solves that for meeee :P

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Deleted User 3

Yeah, Iwas going to edited it but figured everyone would know what I mean anyway.



but in a way, if I had a lot of money, then I could have all the animals I want, so technically money solves it for me in two ways :)

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jedimaster1138

Yeah sometimes I creep into other people's brains. I'm like those creatures from Star Trek 2. Khaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn

 

I'm with you and the digital read outs for everything. That's basically my most enjoyable part of the Apex. I have almost no use for the display module except I get to walk past my tank and see measurements of various things and somehow, deep down, I feel complete. Maybe that's just me rationalizing the $ I burned buying the freaking thing? I am on a mission to completely automate everything in my tanks with various computer bits and the like though. If SkyNet ever actually happens, I'll probably be partially to blame. I apologize to everyone here for the eventual destruction of humanity. That reminds me, I want a roomba. I should add it to the wedding registry. The wife won't notice right...

 

That carbon article was pretty interesting. It's nice to see it somewhat confirmed that carbon doesn't rip out things like Ca and Mag...or PO4 for that matter.

 

I'm not completely surprised that you haven't had issues using NYC tap water to top off. We're lucky with our water, but you knew that already. I measured my TDS out of the tap once and it read 40 something, which is excellent. Obviously if we had a well, it would exceed 300, though then we wouldn't have to deal with chlorine - but that's what the carbon is for. heh. I've measured po4 coming out of my tap too, that was up there. I haven't measured it since I got the Hanna Checker...maybe I'll do that tomorrow.

 

Where NYC fails in water though is in TSS, not TDS. Apparently NYC DEP has been getting fined piles of $ for years by the EPA because of all the stuff suspended, not necessarily dissolved in the water. That's why the first stage - the sediment filter - of your RO/DI gets dirty as fast as it does. I've started changing mine every 4 - 6 months and should probably do it more often. As soon as I do the pressure leaving my carbon blocks jumps 20 PSI, which is nice. Right now I'm making a bucket and the PSI is 80-85... last week, before I changed things, I was under 60.

 

Anyway, where was I going with that...I don't even know. I guess what I was driving at with the sediment filter is that there is *stuff* floating in the water that we probably want to rip out, possibly including bits of the piping from your tap to uh, Croton, and all the mud that makes it into the system from those unfinished water tunnels the city is still not done building (Remember Die Hard 3?) I guess it's a toss up though with what's good and bad for a tank. Chlorine is the big one though with po4 right behind it. What else probably depends on your exact location and even the plumbing in your home. I wonder. My parents have a higher TDS in Brooklyn than I do here...their house is a 2 family >100 years old and the plumbing is ancient. Of course there's also the issue of the municipal plumbing making it's way to your house...

 

I'll be more than happy to help with your sump. Definitely give Jeff (CustomKing on MR) a jingle to do the actual construction if you want an expert to actually build it, but the design is all you. Here's one of a couple (mostly) scale drawing I did of mine in iIlustrator. I've already changed things a little and the measurements are very approximate, but yeah. He was able to take these and build a monster that feels like a tank - an Abrams tank.

 

I think KittyKat has one of his sumps as well...she can verify his quality of construction.

 

 

1024.jpg?md=1357247533000

 

 

1024.jpg?md=1357247546000

 

 

 

Well, i cant say for sure these days that 'bigger is always better " :P but it certainly was years ago when Iwas heavy HEAVY into buying clams. These days I have to admit I have not been having any luck with large insanely colored maximas, but far better luck with small aquacultured ones. But Im stuborn and keep trying. Back to the drawing board.

 

I LOVE salinity probes because I love digital read outs. I like to look at my tank and see the numbers flying by without having to do a thing. Its a shame those pinpoint calcium and nitrate digital monitors are complete garbage, not to mention well over $200. I have tried more than one of each and both wound up in the garbage. I have always had salinity probes controling my top offs, but now I use a new reef keeper elite net and the salinity probes have been recalled and are not available. So Im just running a regular ato w/ powerhead like everyone else.

You must have been scanning my brain when you mentioned top off water having more of an impact on our systems then we aknowledge. Because, and get this....i didnt even want to talk about it yet...ive been using NYC TAP WATER for my top offs and water changes. All I do is first run it overnight through a carbon/phosguard reactor. I did a 200 gallon water change with NYC tap a couple weeks ago, which is nearly a %50 water change, and nothing blinked. I dont pretend to know EVERYTHING that is in our tap, and what the media will/wont remove, but I do know it will carry more carbonates (DKH), calcium, iron, and certain other minerals found in our tap that carbon doesnt remove. I have also been looking for reliable information on exactly what and how good carbon removes certain items because it is teribbly confusing. SOme big names say carbon removed iodine and magnesium, and others say it does not. Here is the best referance I have found to date.

 

http://www.aquariumslife.com/saltwater-101/activated-carbon-in-aquarium/

 

THis is genius, as it clearly list what carbon is great, moderate, or sucks at removing.

 

Im looking forward to seeing your custom sump. Mine are always generic tank/sumps, but Im playing with an insane new nano idea and going to build the most high tech sump i can come up with. Im old school so i'll prolly be asking you for help. See you soon man!!!



What is it ??? I cant see a thing!!!!

 

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