THE OFFICIAL ASK ALBERT THIEL THREAD

[sfnt125]

Albert,

I love your thread. So much info it's like drinking from a firehose as I like to say. Just wanted to say I appreciate your hard work!

 

I do have a question for you though. And please forgive me if the question has already been answered In this thread especially with above link on water chemistry but 258 pages is a lot to go through.

 

So my question is this, with all the talk of ideal nitrate levels I'm confused as to the ideal levels wanted. I use the API test kit, I know it sux, but the kit instructions say to decide your results by 4.4 and that gives you your answer. API measures total nitrate right? Hence the reason the instructions say to divide by 4.4.

 

Which test kit would you suggest for a more accurate reading, and should I be worried about total nitrates or just nitrate nitrogen? Which is what, from my research, is why you divide by 4.4. I'm still confused, any insight would be awesome!

 

Scott

Edited October 23, 2012 by sfnt125

[atoll]

Got it ... guess if you don't have all the components then you can indeed not set it up ...

 

And yes "Murphy's Law" does apply to our Hobby for sure ....

 

If it has not happened yet, just be patient and it will ... should be the saying !

 

Good luck when everything gets there ...

 

Changed avatar as you noticed and was hesitating between the one I have now and this :

 

 

 

Albert

 

 

Yeah must admit that does rather look like you Albert

[albertthiel]

Yeah must admit that does rather look like you Albert

 

T h a n k s ... !

 

............... I hope not ! :-)

 

Albert

[albertthiel]

Albert,

I love your thread. So much info it's like drinking from a firehose as I like to say. Just wanted to say I appreciate your hard work!

 

I do have a question for you though. And please forgive me if the question has already been answered In this thread especially with above link on water chemistry but 258 pages is a lot to go through.

 

So my question is this, with all the talk of ideal nitrate levels I'm confused as to the ideal levels wanted. I use the API test kit, I know it sux, but the kit instructions say to decide your results by 4.4 and that gives you your answer. API measures total nitrate right? Hence the reason the instructions say to divide by 4.4.

 

Which test kit would you suggest for a more accurate reading, and should I be worried about total nitrates or just nitrate nitrogen? Which is what, from my research, is why you divide by 4.4. I'm still confused, any insight would be awesome!

 

Scott

 

Scott:

 

Thanks for the kind words and yes with all the pages it can be difficult to find a particular post but you can use the Search feature on the bottom left and type in a search term and a new page comes up with all the posts on that topic.

 

I did one on nitrate for you and here is the link :

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...lite=%2Bnitrate

 

That brings up all the posts on Nitrate ....

 

Yes Nitrate measuring can be confusing ... in fact there is NO Total Nitrate, there is NO3- and NO3-N.

 

Here is a link to a good explanation by Boomer Bill Wing (chemistry expert) :

 

http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/reef-c...ate-vs-n03.html

 

Now to the level: whatever test kit you use, the result should be zero ppm, unless you keep clams, in which case you do need some nitrate in the water.

 

API is not the best but were it comes to Nitrate it is my understanding that it is fine. Salifert or Elos or the Hannah colorimeters are other options.

 

Why do I say that it should be zero ppm? Because the test kits we use cannot measure the real low levels that are always present. Their sensitivity is just not that good and so, even if you have 0.09 ppm for example, your test will say 0 of course ..

 

There will always be nitrate in your tank, regardless of what your test measures, and because you do not want levels that may promote pest algae growth, IMO the level that your test reads should be 0 ppm.

 

Hope that helps ... BTW here is a link to an article by Randy Holmes-Farley on Nitrates:

 

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/8/chemistry - which you may want to read.

 

Hope this answers your questions but if not, don't hesitate to make another post.

 

Albert

[albertthiel]

Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium

 

© By Randy Holmes-Farley

 

This article provides background on nitrate in the ocean and in aquaria, and describes a number of techniques that aquarists have successfully used to keep nitrate levels down to more natural levels in reef aquaria.

 

Link : http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/8/chemistry

 

Albert

[sfnt125]

Sweet! The links were very helpful. I especially like Boomer's explanation.

 

Looks as if I might be investing in a different nitrate test kit in the near future.

 

You're the best Albert!

[albertthiel]

Sweet! The links were very helpful. I especially like Boomer's explanation.

 

Looks as if I might be investing in a different nitrate test kit in the near future.

 

You're the best Albert!

 

Thanks, glad the links and explanations were helpful and Boomer is tops when it comes to chemistry ! Note that besides the ones I mentioned there are other brands. They key is to make sure it is for SW and also that it measures in the LOW ranges ... the lower the better.

 

Thanks also for the kind words.

 

Albert

[atoll]

Here's a little teaser for you Albert

 

To eggcreate or not to eggcrate that is the question? On the base of the tank I mean to put your living rock reefscape on. There are many differing opinions on if it should be used on the base glass of the tank to spread its weight. Some say it creates many pockets in which detritus can accumulate. Others suggest it is best to spread the weight of the rock using eggcrate and that detritus is no more accumulated than if you didn't use it. What does the panel think? ( saying taken from an old UK game show of the 60s .

 

Les.

[albertthiel]

A Few Pictures of My Tank Today

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looks like the Baby Yuma is finally getting small tentacles. Problem is feeding it, but it really is still too small to feed it anything at all, and I am sure it is getting some food particles out of the water and does get some light off the reflection from the front glass of the tank, as it is about 3/4 inch or so away from it.

 

 

 

The white particles on the Cabbage coral are actually sand, which I have to blow off as, a while ago, I blasted my live rock with a Turkey baster to clean them off, and also put some of the detritus in the sand bed (or what remains of it) in the water column.

 

The Paly, which was kind of behaving oddly is back to normal but I cannot see any changes in the colony. Maybe I'll something in a few days or weeks ... hard to tell right now as they are clustered pretty well close together.

 

Albert

Edited October 23, 2012 by albertthiel

[albertthiel]

Here's a little teaser for you Albert

 

To eggcreate or not to eggcrate that is the question? On the base of the tank I mean to put your living rock reefscape on. There are many differing opinions on if it should be used on the base glass of the tank to spread its weight. Some say it creates many pockets in which detritus can accumulate. Others suggest it is best to spread the weight of the rock using eggcrate and that detritus is no more accumulated than if you didn't use it. What does the panel think? ( saying taken from an old UK game show of the 60s .

 

Les.

 

Well that is more than a teaser question, and you are right, you will find, as you did, that there are many many opinions about doing so, and why one would do so, or why one would not do so.

 

The answer IMO also depends on whether you are going to use a sand substrate or not. If you do then you are creating small areas in each of the holes in the eggcrate, where sand sits and could easily go anaerobic, and any sand crawlers would have a hard time getting through the substrate completely, and may just move along in the sand on top of the eggcrate, and not stir up the sand that is in those holes or little areas.

 

IMO that sets one up for possible anaerobic activity, and hydrogen sulfide production.

 

If you do not use a substrate then what are you going to cover the eggcrate with?

 

If not covered, it is not going to look all that appealing, unless you have lots and lots of life forms that you can put on the bottom to cover it and still there will IMO be open spaces ...

 

If covered then the water in those holes will not really be circulating in and out of them, and become stagnant and could go anaerobic as well.

 

As to spreading the weight of the rocks out by using eggcrate ... I don't think that doing so makes a difference as the weight of the rock is not going to break the glass.

 

Now what some do is cut out small piece of eggcrate and place the rock on those, but I do not really see the point in doing that either as you end up again with areas that could become anaerobic underneath the rocks.

 

So I guess my personal opinion is don't do it ... but I know that others will disagree and if they do so I would like to know how they are going to overcome what I listed above as the negatives that I see from using egg crate.

 

Of course there is an alternative and that is to put the pieces underneath the rocks on little "feet" so to speak, so the eggcrate is not directly on the glass, and I have seen that done.

 

So what are your thoughts for the record?

 

Albert

[atoll]

Well that is more than a teaser question, and you are right, you will find, as you did, that there are many many opinions about doing so, and why one would do so, or why one would not do so.

 

The answer IMO also depends on whether you are going to use a sand substrate or not. If you do then you are creating small areas in each of the holes in the eggcrate, where sand sits and could easily go anaerobic, and any sand crawlers would have a hard time getting through the substrate completely, and may just move along in the sand on top of the eggcrate, and not stir up the sand that is in those holes or little areas.

 

IMO that sets one up for possible anaerobic activity, and hydrogen sulfide production.

 

If you do not use a substrate then what are you going to cover the eggcrate with?

 

If not covered, it is not going to look all that appealing, unless you have lots and lots of life forms that you can put on the bottom to cover it and still there will IMO be open spaces ...

 

If covered then the water in those holes will not really be circulating in and out of them, and become stagnant and could go anaerobic as well.

 

As to spreading the weight of the rocks out by using eggcrate ... I don't think that doing so makes a difference as the weight of the rock is not going to break the glass.

 

Now what some do is cut out small piece of eggcrate and place the rock on those, but I do not really see the point in doing that either as you end up again with areas that could become anaerobic underneath the rocks.

 

So I guess my personal opinion is don't do it ... but I know that others will disagree and if they do so I would like to know how they are going to overcome what I listed above as the negatives that I see from using egg crate.

 

Of course there is an alternative and that is to put the pieces underneath the rocks on little "feet" so to speak, so the eggcrate is not directly on the glass, and I have seen that done.

 

So what are your thoughts for the record?

 

Albert

 

Thanks Albert I kinda guessed the question would come back at me.

Well in my current nano I have the living rock on eggcrate. Not sure if that is a good thing or not. However when it comes time to strip it down and move the rockwork over to my new tank I will see what there is in between the little eggcrate squares If I consider there is excessive detritus I will not put any eggcreat in.

 

I guess it is inevitable that there will be detritus just like there will always be detritus behind the rockwork etc its just a matter of how much. I do want sand on the bottom on my new tank for asthetics and for cuc etc that at least I have decided.

 

I anticipate only having no more than around 1/2" of a mixed grade of sand on the bottom of the tank and will probably put the rock in first and spread the sand around it with nothing at the back where it would not be seen. At the moment then I am thinking I won't use eggcrate on the tank bottom. I guess you don't have any in your tank either?

 

Back at yeah.

 

Les.

[albertthiel]

Thanks Albert I kinda guessed the question would come back at me.

Well in my current nano I have the living rock on eggcrate. Not sure if that is a good thing or not. However when it comes time to strip it down and move the rockwork over to my new tank I will see what there is in between the little eggcrate squares If I consider there is excessive detritus I will not put any eggcreat in.

 

I guess it is inevitable that there will be detritus just like there will always be detritus behind the rockwork etc its just a matter of how much. I do want sand on the bottom on my new tank for asthetics and for cuc etc that at least I have decided.

 

I anticipate only having no more than around 1/2" of a mixed grade of sand on the bottom of the tank and will probably put the rock in first and spread the sand around it with nothing at the back where it would not be seen. At the moment then I am thinking I won't use eggcrate on the tank bottom. I guess you don't have any in your tank either?

 

Back at yeah.

 

Les.

 

It will be interesting to see what you find in those little areas when you take the current tank down and I am sure you will let us know and maybe even take some pics and post them of what what comes out of them looks like and whether you see any "black" spots in those areas.

 

Yes detritus builds up everywhere of course and that is why I suggested several times on the thread that reefers should blow the dirt and detritus off the rocks, out of the in-between areas and also from behind the rocks, and clean their substrate and not leave any detritus work itself into the sand.

 

I posted pics of what the water column looks like when one blows off the rocks etc ... and I am sure you and others have seen those. It is actually amazing that so much can build up in usually so little time.

 

And yes I think that the suggested approach for the new tank is a good one and that putting in the rocks first is the way to go as well so that there is no sand underneath them than can go bad.

 

When you say that you are going to use a mixed grade do you mean "somewhat coarse" but not too coarse?

 

And I guess that 1/2 inch or a little more will be good and will get your CUC's to stir it up and have an area to go into as they like to do.

 

Thanks for the update

 

Albert

[albertthiel]

Let's Clown Around With More Gobies: The Gobiodon Species

 

© Reekeeping.com and Henry C. Schultz III

 

 

 

 

Gobiidae is the largest family of marine fish with over 2,000 members and still growing.

 

Gobiodon is a small genus within Gobiidae, comprised of only 15 recognized species (Harold & Winterbottom, 1995) (see below); though more than 30 nominal species have been described (Munday et al., 1999) including the recently classified Gobiodon brochus (Harold & Winterbottom, 1999).

 

Link : http://tinyurl.com/8w7yvbr

 

Albert

[atoll]

It will be interesting to see what you find in those little areas when you take the current tank down and I am sure you will let us know and maybe even take some pics and post them of what what comes out of them looks like and whether you see any "black" spots in those areas.

 

Yes detritus builds up everywhere of course and that is why I suggested several times on the thread that reefers should blow the dirt and detritus off the rocks, out of the in-between areas and also from behind the rocks, and clean their substrate and not leave any detritus work itself into the sand.

 

I posted pics of what the water column looks like when one blows off the rocks etc ... and I am sure you and others have seen those. It is actually amazing that so much can build up in usually so little time.

 

And yes I think that the suggested approach for the new tank is a good one and that putting in the rocks first is the way to go as well so that there is no sand underneath them than can go bad.

 

When you say that you are going to use a mixed grade do you mean "somewhat coarse" but not too coarse?

 

And I guess that 1/2 inch or a little more will be good and will get your CUC's to stir it up and have an area to go into as they like to do.

 

Thanks for the update

 

Albert

 

Am thinking fine sand mixed with other more coarse grades to a shallow depth of no more than 3/8" to 1/2".

I will move the sand I have in my nano over to the new tank and put it on top of the new sand to seed it. Bedtime here soon so will catch up with you in the morning.

[albertthiel]

To Clean or Not to Clean: Gobiosoma Species: Cleaner Gobies

 

© Henry C. Schultz III & reefkeeping.com

 

 

From mud bottoms to rocky outcroppings, from open sandy bays to inside sponges and gorgonians, from the equator to the polar circle, from freshwater to marine environments,

 

Gobiidae have truly conquered the water world. In fact, the Gobiidae family is the largest family of marine fish, consisting of over 2,000 species, yet, the members of this family are amongst the smallest of marine fish.

 

Presumably, their overall range and size are two of the main reasons that new goby species are still being discovered on a regular basis.

 

Link : http://tinyurl.com/9lwa2nk

 

And another Link: http://tinyurl.com/8ru5fs4

 

Albert

Edited October 23, 2012 by albertthiel

[albertthiel]

One of my Tanks ... from Years ago ...

 

 

This picture, which I no longer have myself, is posted on : http://tinyurl.com/94ay2yq

 

Albert

[albertthiel]

Am thinking fine sand mixed with other more coarse grades to a shallow depth of no more than 3/8" to 1/2".

I will move the sand I have in my nano over to the new tank and put it on top of the new sand to seed it. Bedtime here soon so will catch up with you in the morning.

 

I guess you can do that and IMO clean the sand in saltwater of the same parameters as the tank it comes out of so you remove all detritus from it. Put it in a somewhat large container and add saltwater and then stir it up well and siphon of the dirty water, and if you do that a few times you sand should be clean and ready to use.

 

I would mix the two types rather than putting one on top of the other as I think that will make sure the seeding of the new one happens. Just a thought ....

 

Albert

[albertthiel]

Apogon leptacanthus (Threadfin Cardinal, Longspine Cardinal)

 

© Massi P : .... Video of several in a Nano-Reef

 

 

Video at :

 

Albert

Edited October 24, 2012 by albertthiel

[albertthiel]

Orangestriped Cardinalfish (Apogon cyanosoma)

 

© cutietwo22

 

 

Video at :

 

Albert

[albertthiel]

Emerald Crab, Mithraculus scultpus

 

© Marine Habitat & John Clipperton

 

 

Emerald Crabs are residents of Caribbean waters, specifically occurring in areas such as rocky coastlines, backwaters and seagrass beds where there are a myriad of algae-covered surfaces for them to graze upon.

 

Growing to a few inches from claw-tip to tip, they have a heavily armoured carapace, and their claws have spoon-shaped tips which they use for feeding on different forms of algae (actually they may even consume Bubble Algae [Valonia sp]).

 

In their natural habitat they are nocturnal creatures that shelter amongst rubble and in caves during the day.

 

Link to the article : http://tinyurl.com/8urxhgj

 

Albert

[albertthiel]

Moving A Tank Successfully

 

© Melevsreef & Marc Levenson

 

When it comes to moving a tank, whether that be across the room or across town, success can be assured by your preparations and anticipation for any problems that may occur during the transition.

 

Special consideration should be given to the new location, to make sure all is ready. Electrical needs should already be met, and the floor should be stable and sturdy.

 

Obstacles should be removed at all costs to avoid tripping over anything while carrying the tank, the stand or anything else related to the move.

 

Full article can be found at: http://www.melevsreef.com/moving_a_tank.html

 

Albert

Edited October 24, 2012 by albertthiel

[albertthiel]

Why Should You Use RO/DI Water and not Tapwater?

 

© melevsreef and Mark Levenson

 

 

When getting into the hobby of marine tanks, the basic consideration is water. Without it, nothing in your tank would live for long. Compared to freshwater tanks, marine tanks need excellent water quality to maintain success. So what water is available to the average person?

 

- Tap Water - anything can be in your tap water, and most are undesirable for your tank.

- Well Water - similar to above, with the risk of metals and high alkalinity

- Distilled Water - available in many food stores, supposedly pure.

- Reverse Osmosis &/or De-Ionized water - available as above, as well as at your LFS

 

The Article : http://www.melevsreef.com/why_rodi.html

 

Albert

[albertthiel]

Elysia crispata – The Lettuce / Leaf Sea Slug / Nudibranch

 

© Marine Habitat and John Clipperton

 

 

They are demanding of certain other parameters. First and foremost, they need an algae food source, and this should be made available in the form of filamentous species such as Bryopsis or Chaetomorpha (indeed they are often added to control nuisance filamentous green algae). Caulerpa species have also been reported to be consumed by larger specimens.

 

Full article can be found at : http://www.marinehabitatmagazine.com/archives/5309

 

Albert

[albertthiel]

Pods of all Kinds: Good and Not So Good, and Bad ...

 

© Chucksaddiction and Charles & Linda Raabe

 

 

At one time or another, usualy just after the addition of live rock or live sand, every one of us has noticed what looks like little "bugs" running or swimming around all over the place, usualy after the tank has been dark for some time.

 

While few are large enough to make out any details, the use of a magnifynig glass while holding a flashlight against the side of the tank will open up a new, tiny world to you.

 

Link to the page and many many Pictures: http://www.chucksaddiction.com/hitchpods.html

 

Albert

[albertthiel]

When Spotfeeding does not Work Well - What can You do ?

 

Sometimes due to currents in the aquarium spot feeding, or target feeding, corals does not always work as well as we would like it to work.

 

Whatever we feed with a syringe, or similar device, seems to not stay around the coral for long enough, for it to be able to catch, or trap, the food stuffs we use.

 

This is especially so with the many liquid food forms that are on the market such as plankton and photo-plankton products ... and others as well.

 

In an email I received, a Hobbyist, a member on this Forum, asked how I dealt with such a situation.

 

Basically what I did was cut off the bottom part of a 2 Liter bottle of Soda, as can be seen below in the picture.

 

I place that simple, and inexpensive plastic bottle cut-off, over the coral, and then inject the food into it, so it stays around the coral for a longer period of time and so that the coral definitely gets a lot more food than it would if you just spot fed without using the open container.

 

Of course, depending on the location of the coral, you may have to hold the container in place with your hand (gloved), so that it does not tumble down if the coral is on a piece of LR, and the container, which is open at the top and bottom would not stay in place, unless you held it where you want it to be.

 

Also, you will need to consider its size (width and maybe even height) so that it serves the purpose it is intended for.

 

Mine is fairly large as the corals I need it for are at the bottom of the tank, and spread apart enough so I can just place it on the sand, over the corals (a Duncan and a Candy Cane) and then inject the food with one of those Baby Syringes that one can get at any pharmacy (either for a real low price or often for free just by asking for one).

 

Here is what mine looks like. Yours may be a little different depending on what plastic container you use to cut the piece you need out of.

 

 

I used a 2 Liter Bottle to make it but you can do the same with smaller plastic bottle or containers, so they fit the space where you will be using it.

 

Hopefully this makes sense but if you (who sent me the email) or anyone else, has any questions, feel free to post them here.

 

Albert