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Picked up a new RODI on Black Friday. So now I have a project over Christmas vacation. Question on the float valve. Its adjustable and I rotated the float 90 degrees. Is there any issues with installing it on the top of the tank with the water line going vertically down?

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They will work fine in that configuration, but you just have to be careful that the float doesn't flex and reach the top oh the container, whick could prevent it from sealing the valve.

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Picked up a new RODI on Black Friday. So now I have a project over Christmas vacation. Question on the float valve. Its adjustable and I rotated the float 90 degrees. Is there any issues with installing it on the top of the tank with the water line going vertically down?

 

NNqvw7k.jpg

 

uIrbbfu.jpg

 

Personally I wouldn't set it up like that. It might work, but I would be concerned about the reliability running it vertically. Instead, I might consider looking around for a vertical style float valve, or drilling the hole for the float in a horizontal location if possible. Also, one thing to keep in mind with the adjustable float is you will want to periodically check the thumb screw and bolt to ensure they are tight. If they loosen it could cause the float to shift and prevent the valve from closing. :D

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I have the same rodi and shtoff valve. the throw is very short. It should be fine like that

 

just keep an eye on it lol. been using mine a year, only shut supply water off twice so far. Once when i went on vacation and the second time when i moved unit. So far no over filling issues at all

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Personally I wouldn't set it up like that. It might work, but I would be concerned about the reliability running it vertically. Instead, I might consider looking around for a vertical style float valve, or drilling the hole for the float in a horizontal location if possible. Also, one thing to keep in mind with the adjustable float is you will want to periodically check the thumb screw and bolt to ensure they are tight. If they loosen it could cause the float to shift and prevent the valve from closing. :D

 

Thats kind of why I like it right next to the lid so I can tighten if needed. And I can always adjust the float to be at 80 degrees or something so that it can never hit the roof of the container.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got a day off between Christmas and New Years while day care was open so I had some free time to hook up the RODI and build a stand for the water reservoir. I originally bought a saddle valve to attach the filter to my main water supply but after seeing some youtube videos and hearing horror stories of those leaking and failing I went with a more sturdy solution.

 

The tank was found on craigslist with the brass garden hose valve already attached. Should I use a very small length of garden hose (6") to fill the jugs? Or remove the brass valve and install a pvc ball valve and 90 degree elbow?

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got a few new pieces finally installed at the bottom of the container so I could get rid of the copper valve. Turned on the RODI unit and was amazed at how clean our water is!!

 

It has even dropped down to 8 since taking this photo. All its really doing is removing the chlorine and probably some minor trace metals from the pipes.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The new build is coming along very slowly I know.

 

After waiting forever for the Neptune Cor I decided to get a Jabeo DCP pump to at least get all the plumbing in place and run some water tests. The pump should be here by next week sometime. In the interim I made myself a little jig to bend some pvc pipe. Decided to buy some crap pipe to test it on before I use the fancy formufit stuff.

 

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And my messy space downstairs while I fiddle with things. I don't know if I posted about the LED light I installed but this has been a much needed upgrade compared to my current stand. Its so much easier to see while doing maintenance, and it'll show off the nice interior.

 

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I can never show this to my friend... He goes ape shit over that bent pvc :-). Looking very nice!

 

Hes a 90 degree fitting purest? There will be a bunch of fittings on the inside due to tight quarters but on the outside I wanted the simplest, smoothest looking aesthetic.

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I remember following V1.0 a while back. That tank was looking good in the last photos you posted. Interested to see where V2.0 goes.

 

Are you going to be painting or dying the PVC? I came across using solvents and dyes for PVC and the results look pretty good from what I've seen.

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Not sure if you posted this in the earlier pages, how did you attach the shelves on the inside of the doors? Clever idea, I want to do that to my stand to open up some space!

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I remember following V1.0 a while back. That tank was looking good in the last photos you posted. Interested to see where V2.0 goes.

 

Are you going to be painting or dying the PVC? I came across using solvents and dyes for PVC and the results look pretty good from what I've seen.

 

The PVC is going to be black on the outside and orange in the stand. I am using Formufit Furniture grade PVC instead of the white stuff. I just did a test with it to make sure I could get nice 90 degree bends before using the expensive stuff right away.

 

Not sure if you posted this in the earlier pages, how did you attach the shelves on the inside of the doors? Clever idea, I want to do that to my stand to open up some space!

 

I did't post about the shelves previously. They are just a simple U shaped box with the back open and the front having an acrylic panel. On the 2 wooden sides there is a keyhole bracket to mount the shelf to the door. They can be removed and adjusted later if needed and don't show any mounting hardware.

 

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Very nice setup. I have thought about doing something like this. One question, why did you decide to do the drains and returns on the side vs on the back corners and then just pointing the returns to run the length of tank which would clean the look up even more by not seeing the drain and return pvc?

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Very nice setup. I have thought about doing something like this. One question, why did you decide to do the drains and returns on the side vs on the back corners and then just pointing the returns to run the length of tank which would clean the look up even more by not seeing the drain and return pvc?

This treated my eyes as well :wub:

Although, I have to disagree with you in that having the drains and returns on the back would give a cleaner look.

By not painting any of the glass, keeping the plumbing on the smallest viewing surfaces (sides), and placing the tank in front of a white wall, it looks very sleek :)

I'll definitely borrow that idea in future builds!

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Very nice setup. I have thought about doing something like this. One question, why did you decide to do the drains and returns on the side vs on the back corners and then just pointing the returns to run the length of tank which would clean the look up even more by not seeing the drain and return pvc?

 

Thanks Chubble

 

I kinda feel the exact opposite though. My primary focus and goal is viewing the tank straight on. I don't want to see a single piece of equipment, overflow box, or pipe on the back of the tank which is left completely clear. I understand that is viewable on the sides of the tank but it kind of has an industrial vibe. Same way that modern lofts or architecture leaves exposed beams and ductwork.

This treated my eyes as well :wub:

Although, I have to disagree with you in that having the drains and returns on the back would give a cleaner look.

By not painting any of the glass, keeping the plumbing on the smallest viewing surfaces (sides), and placing the tank in front of a white wall, it looks very sleek :)

I'll definitely borrow that idea in future builds!

 

Ya what he said :D

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The chaos continues!!

 

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First on the list was to do the exterior black plumbing after I tested it with the crappy white pvc.

It was kind of a tricky beast as the bulkhead first had to be tightened to the glass. Then the threaded fittings needed teflon paste applied and they were tightened (The final angle didnt matter as long as they were tight) The bulkheads were then loosened to rotate the fitting into place. Once vertical the bulkhead was tightened back up. The black pipe was all bent to the same 90 curve with excess on all ends. After figuring out the best height there were all cut to length and glued into place. Now the tank better not leak as these steps can't be reversed in order.

 

Made sure to remember to include the union nut on the pipe. :happy:

 

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Next on the list was the internal plumbing. The return line and reactor plumbing was pretty easy. Just a lot of fittings stacked on top of one another. The only critical part was getting the total height correct so that it met the return line union. The drains were the worst part so they were left until last. These bends had to be more precise and they required exact height and length to match both unions at the same time.

 

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So I start to put it all together and.... ####!! This is with me even putting a lot of pressure on the pipe to even get it this close.

 

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Luckily the pipe could actually be extended by increasing the radius of the bend while keeping the height and length of the assembly the same. A 3" arc turned into a 5" arc. Success!!

 

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I was getting really close to putting every single piece together but caused too much noise after 10pm and the wife got a little pissed. So the build will continue in the morning.

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Honestly this is the sexiest plumbing I have seen on a tank. I envy your patience and skill.

 

Thanks. I was going for that sexy vibe. :wub:

 

I probably would have thrown in the towel at this point and gone to bed. Lmao

 

 

This plumbing is amazing, it's very reminiscent of the ADA-steel lily pipes.

 

I was really pissed. I dry fit everything and had it all laid out the way I wanted. I had all my pipes longer than needed and was glueing and measuring each section and fitting as I went. Along the way one of the fittings I thought I had glued I actually forgot about. PVC pipe only goes 1/2 way into the fittings when dry but 100% when glued. So when I measured and cut I didn't account for that extra 1/2-3/4" I would lose when it would get fully inserted. I put the pipe spring into my fully assembled drain line with all the unions and elbows fully glued and was lucky to increase the radius of my arc.

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I was really pissed. I dry fit everything and had it all laid out the way I wanted. I had all my pipes longer than needed and was glueing and measuring each section and fitting as I went. Along the way one of the fittings I thought I had glued I actually forgot about. PVC pipe only goes 1/2 way into the fittings when dry but 100% when glued. So when I measured and cut I didn't account for that extra 1/2-3/4" I would lose when it would get fully inserted. I put the pipe spring into my fully assembled drain line with all the unions and elbows fully glued and was lucky to increase the radius of my arc.

Dear lord, that would have tilted me sideways. I ran into something similar when cutting dado joints for my stand.

 

On the bright side, everything worked out fine with your pipes and it looks sexy af.

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Fully assembled.

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Today I also worked on an electronics board. Then I realized its right below the unions and probably the worst place to have a power strip..... So options include making a small "roof" on top of the board to shield against any possible drips. Or mount everything to the back wall and show all the cords. I can get some tiny raceways or cable ties but its not quite the same.

If I decide to go with this placement the final board will either be painted black or recreated using walnut to match the stand.

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