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Scorched

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About Scorched

  • Rank
    TOTM 2014
  • Birthday 09/26/1985

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    http://www.ericschulist.com

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    Male
  • Location
    Minneapolis, MN

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  1. Scorched

    3 Foot Long Nano - Nanobox Lids

    Thanks! The stand was built by Jason Langer. He has built many stands for members in our local Twin Cities club. He has also built stands and shipped them cross country. https://www.facebook.com/jason.langer.718/media_set?set=a.344635179057446.1073741836.100005328995869&type=3
  2. Scorched

    3 Foot Long Nano - Nanobox Lids

    Its been out for awhile I believe. They ran out very fast on their 1st and probably second shipments and are hopefully finally able to catch up to the demand. I've been using the COR since Aug 2017 when it went out to the NSI beta testers. I previously was using the DCP-5000 and in my opinion it was a great DC pump. It had enough power and was quiet. The only thing it didn't have was the controllability and calibration that the Cor or Vectra have. This is what makes the pump great. You can set your min and max so that your tank doesn't back siphon during feed modes or simple maintenance and you if you have a finicky system like mine you want to make sure you don't overpower the overflows ability. The pump is very quiet. If you have the Apex system it really integrates well with Fusion. You can see its current Watt, RPM, and Temp readings. You can control the speed based on various programming you might have on Feed Modes, or sensors. My favorite is that I have my ATK bracket flipped upside down. I removed the float valve and put in a 3rd optical sensor. This sensor sits just above the top of the pump. I have the pump coded to slow way down if the water ever drops that low. This happens when my siphon is restarting after feedings or maintenance. By slowing the pump down it gives the drains time to purge all their air and go full siphon. When they do the water level rises in the sump covering the sensor. The pump then ramps back up to full speed and I don't have to worry about the pump sucking air and blowing bubbles all over the tank and the pump doesn't run dry and create a bunch of noise. You can also have the speed of the pump adjust other equipment. Say If Pump Speed < 80 Skimmer OFF then defer it by 2-5 minutes. So if the pump goes back above 80% speed it waits for the sump to equalize a few minutes before turning back on. I created a fairly strange bit of code using some virtual outlets that had fast intervals and ramps. I was able to get the pump to effectively pulse water and create mini waves inside the tank. I was able to balance it to my siphon overflow but it was very finicky and did create an annoying sound as it ramped up and down so quickly. I also wasnt sure much wear it was putting on the pump. This only lasted a few minutes to maybe an hour before I just left it at a constant speed. But just know that those type of things are possible with some coding.
  3. Scorched

    Boiling Live Rock

    Boiling Live Rock can cause serious health issues if there are certain types of soft corals living on the rock. They die releasing toxins that are extremely dangerous. This is called palytoxin. Here are things you can look forward to if you get it in your mouth or even inhale it (boiling palythoas turn their toxin into a gas) Even if there were no palythoa corals on the rock there is also the risk of the rock exploding as it has thousands, if not millions of tiny air bubbles inside the rock. These can expand and turn the rock to turn into a bomb. I wouldn't want to be hit with flying rock shards.
  4. Scorched

    3 Foot Long Nano - Nanobox Lids

    Its a means to keep my nitrate and phosphate lower while also serving as a carbon source to feed the corals. The main concept of biopellets is that the are slowly dissolving a concentrated sugar, this fuels bacteria to grow to convert nitrate and phosphate to less harmful compounds and release some of them as gas out of the tank. This excess bacteria and dissolving pellet is food for corals. Too much and you can get cyano and or strip the water of all its nutrients if the bacteria population is too large and efficient. Yep a small amount is definitely key. People have said you can't overdose pellets if you just fill up a reactor, but you most certainly can. The sock is great at catching uneaten food, detritus from the tank, as well as the chum and chaff that the pellet dissolves into. On version 1.0 of this aquarium my reactor output couldn't fit into my filter sock so it was just loose in the sump. After a few months I would get a tanish yellow flaky film covering the bottom of the sump. Since the sock was catching everything from the tank the only source for this buildup could be the biopellets. Now I'm able to catch and get rid of that every week as well.
  5. Scorched

    3 Foot Long Nano - Nanobox Lids

    I honestly don't know. Things have been growing with better color lately so I've even stopped doing water changes. The amount is small so its just to add a tiny constant food source for the corals and bacteria. There definitely was a time maybe 4-5 years ago when I ran too many pellets while also running GFO. I striped the water so clean that all my corals had thin tissue and looked very pale.
  6. Scorched

    3 Foot Long Nano - Nanobox Lids

    I run a small amount of biopellets which is pretty much slow release carbon dosing. Its probably one of the things that lets me have a higher fish load without major issues. Almost every tutorial and video about biopellets will say to run the output into a skimmer. I've never used a skimmer and its worked for me. The output is still placed into my filter sock to trap the chaff and chum that the pellet breaks down into though.
  7. Scorched

    3 Foot Long Nano - Nanobox Lids

    Only be best fish porn for Nano-Reefers.
  8. There is one being listed today on Divers Den
  9. His update is over a year old. You should go over there and see what it looks like now and have him show us.
  10. Scorched

    3 Foot Long Nano - Nanobox Lids

    I still have the spinners. I just tried them out to see. There is more "random" flow, and with the COR cranked up to 100% it does make them spin nicely. However, just like before it easily cuts my flow in half or more. Just looking at the water surface or dropping food in the tank with the spinner attached you can see everything is just more lethargic. The polyps on the corals and the anemone hardly sway. I took the spinners off and left the COR at 100%. Boom!! Fish food is flying everywhere and the corals are actually rocking in the current and look like they are going to break off their glue base. I turned the flow down to 65-70% power and it just looks better to be honest. For a 20g I would do a 100 watt heater. I run a 75 now and in the winter it can barely keep the temperature up. Thanks!! I don't know honestly. It wasn't always so clean and happy. In the first year I had tons of algae problems and corals dying. This is usually the time that most hobbyists throw in the towel. You just have to struggle through it and find the combination of equipment and maintenance that works for your tank. For me it was heavy feedings and lots of fish to raise my nutrient level. For a long period of time I was actually starving my corals and adding more fish and more fish food helped with that. On my first version of this tank my stand was too cramped to fit a skimmer in the sump and I had success with it, with the new tank I just kept doing the same things since they were working before. When the tank is clean and everything is doing well you are more motivated to keep it that way. The new stand and sump was all planned to be easy to maintain and with it looking nice visually it adds that kick in the butt to make sure it stays that way.
  11. Scorched

    Bommie & Floating SPS Islands (Uwdanno)

    I haven't been on top of the base growth as much as I used to. The encrusting part of my Psammy is getting really large as well. Its a blessing and curse for sure. Like uwdanno said its an ORA Kelly's Green Branching Psammacora. This is what mine looks like. This picture is actually a few years old and has probably gotten 2-3 time bigger but this picture shows the growth and texture the best. It has lots of large lumpy branches and the entire coral has a short fuzzy appearance.
  12. Scorched

    3 Foot Long Nano - Nanobox Lids

    Thank you!! A clean well laid out sump really helps with the motivation to actually keep things clean, working well, and doing maintenance.
  13. Scorched

    3 Foot Long Nano - Nanobox Lids

    Things have finally stabilized. I think I only lost 1 coral since the walnut lid pictures. The green acro on the top right. Since then I've added 6-7 new things and they've all been great. The light has been great. I increased my midday brightness to have 100% blue and 80-90% cyan and mint. This has boosted the colors of a few corals. It bleached out my orange chalice in the middle but I wasn't really in love with that coral anyway. Another thing I've done which seemed to help has actually been to stop doing water changes and feed the corals and fish even more. The added nutrients has given the corals a healthier appearance. I'm not recommending everyone do that, but it worked for me. I'll try to get a new photo soon to show off a few of the new corals.
  14. Scorched

    3 Foot Long Nano - Nanobox Lids

    Thanks Grumpy Welcome to the club / addiction. This tank is pretty tricky for a first tank. The 22 gallon long may be a bit better if you want 36" and extra water volume. If doing a larger tank you will need dedicated flow, right now I can get all my flow by using a high powered pump and running a lot of water through the sump and display. When the tank is larger you would most likely need to add an MP10, Gyre or other flow device. Other than that I would probably repeat everything thing I've done. I like having zero equipment in the display tank. The sump is setup for easy maintanence and water changes. I would still do dosing and run an apex. In actuality most of my setup is meant for large displays and I just compacted and squished everything to work with a nano tank. The stand was custom built based off my ver 1.0 television stand that I used for my first setup. It has very similar height, width, and depth. I just got rid of the interior shelf and notched better holes on both sides for my plumbing. My first post talking about a new stand and plumbing Finished Stand is here. Finallizing the filtration design I believe I've listed off the major things before. Walnut Stand - $700 Granite Top - $100 Mr Aqua Tank - $110 Plumbing Approximation (Pipe, Fittings, Elbows, Valves, Bulkheads, Screens) - $300 Sump - $400 Dosing and ATO Containers - $200 DCP-5000 Return Pump - $100 (Replaced with a COR-15) - $275 Neotherm Heater - $50 2016 Apex - $800 DOS - $250 ATK - $200 Nanobox Quad - $800 A bunch of misc things I needed to buy to put everything together.
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