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12 Gallon Nano


Room Picture Version 1.0

Room Picture Version 2.0


Equipment 1.0


Mr. Aqua 12G Long (35.4" x 8.3" x 9.4")

Elite Industries Tall-Boy TV Stand

Currently using
Aquasunrise AquaPro LED
4 Channels - Blues, Whites, Colors (Red, Green, Violet, UV), Cyan
9 Setpoints throughout the day
Ramps up in the morning with just blue/cyan, peaks to bright white midday, and then slowly dims back down to blue/violet.
First 2 years were using a generic 36" LED Light
12 x 3 Watt Cree XP R4
12 X 3 Watt Royal Blue
Wire Suspension Hanging Kit
Dual 1"JT Bulkhead Screens  http://www.amazon.co...l...9509&sr=8-2
Inverse Threaded Elbows into 1" Bulkheads for low profile.
Aqueon 10 gallon
200 Micron Sock stuffed with Polyfill
BRS Dual Reactor
Biopellets in camber one - ROX .08 Carbon in camber two (No more GFO)
Cobalt NeoTherm 75w Heater
Eheim 1260 Return Pump
50 ml BRS Dosing Pump on digital timer for calculated topoff with Kalk

Bulk Reef Supply Pukani

Aragonite Flamingo Reef Sand
No Skimmer
No Powerheads


Equipment 2.0

Mr. Aqua 12G Long Low Iron (35.4" x 8.3" x 9.4")
Custom Built Black Walnut Stand
Black Granite Top
Custom Nanobox Quad
Side Wiring
Walnut Lid
2 Point suspension Hanging
Apex Control
Dual 1"JT Bulkhead Screens  http://www.amazon.co...l...9509&sr=8-2
Inverse Threaded Tees into 1" Bulkheads for low profile.
Formufit Orange PVC plumbing.  Large radius bends done with metal springs and heatgun.
Herbie/Scorch style overflow with full siphon alteration on one drain, trickle on the second.
Custom sized Zero Edge Series 7 Sump
Custom ATO and Two Part Dosing Containers
200 Micron Sock 7" Short Socks
Custom Dual Mini Reactor
ROX .08 Carbon in canister 1 (No more GFO), Biopellets in canister 2.
Two Cobalt NeoTherm 75w Heaters
SR Aquaristik Pro Skim 80
Cor-15 Return Pump - Jabeo DCP-5000 Backup.
Neptune Systems Apex
Neptune Systems Trident
Neptune Systems DOS
Neptune Systems ATK



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Tank Arrives




Steve checking out the new tank



Ready to swim with the fishes?





Bulk Reef Supply Delivery


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A main goal of this tank is clean sleek design. So I went with a rimless unusual sized tank. This makes for a few interesting obstacles to overcome. The first was lighting this tank. I really wanted to either go Bubble Tip Anemones, or SPS corals. So that meant lots of lighting power greater than my previous tank which used 50/50 compact fluorescents.


So the new thing is LEDs which weren't popular or powerful enough when I started my 5.5 originally. So after a few days of searching I had to make a decision that both fit into powerful and clean aesthetics. Originally I liked the design of the Marineland fixture but from enough research found even the Reef version to be lacking in light. The Radions and SOLs were nice but for a long skinny tank they don't really work. So I found something similar to the Marineland light without breaking the bank. It is a Chinese made fixture using CREE LEDs in a 50/50 balance. I didn't really want to buy off Alibaba but luckily there is ebay and American sellers that buy them in bulk and sell them locally. The gentleman was even nice enough to let me negotiate the price and even customize the balance of LEDs.


When purchasing I asked to have the hanging kit included. When it arrived a few days later it was no where to be found, and the light was without holes or eyelets to hang. I contacted the seller and he said I could ship it back and he would make sure I got the correct one I ordered. But with me shipping and him shipping and the hassle involved I persuaded him to refund me $30. Approx $15 shipping each way + the kit. I then emailed him a few hanging kits available online and manly of them were around $30 so he agreed to refund me that amount since that item was not included.


A few days later I joined in on the BRS Group Buy that was happening and ordered the items above as well as their suspension light hanging kit (With discount come out to be about $25) So I was happy. Now I just have to drill some holes and tap them for the kit. Should be fun......




should come out the the frag-swap with TCMAS coming up soon! good looking tanks. Can't wait to see the finished product :)


I'm signed up on TCMAS under eschulist


There isn't a lot of action over there but I will post my build on the Twin Cities club page as well.


What day is it? I don't know if my tank will be ready for coral and probably definitely not an anemone by then, but I would love to check it out and meet some of the local hobbyists.

Edited by Scorched_Ice7
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well there's a meeting in Brooklyn Park on March 11. i won't know the exact date for the swap as of yet. should post the build on the TCMAS forums as well. there's a bunch of cool local reefers

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well there's a meeting in Brooklyn Park on March 11. i won't know the exact date for the swap as of yet. should post the build on the TCMAS forums as well. there's a bunch of cool local reefers


Lol you're kinda like me. Makes a tank. Disappears. Forgets his account. Makes a new ones, vanishes for 4 years and comes back again. Did the same thing except I asked Chris to find and reset my password as it was so old not even the email account it was linked to existed anymore.


What tank are you currently running?

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Lol you're kinda like me. Makes a tank. Disappears. Forgets his account. Makes a new ones, vanishes for 4 years and comes back again. Did the same thing except I asked Chris to find and reset my password as it was so old not even the email account it was linked to existed anymore.


What tank are you currently running?


yup just like you lol!


im currently running a cadlights 18g cube with a kessil 15k led

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I'm in, if for nothing more than the Dexter bobble-head. Can't wait to watch this tank take shape.


I'm in lol dexter bobble head


My wife and I love the show. We watched Seasons 1-6 last fall almost nonstop. Now we have to wait and find out what happens next season!! She got me the bobblehead for Valentines Day.

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Woo dexter! I have that henley long sleeve that he kills people in. When I say that out loud it sounds weird. :lol:


Nice tank with sweet dimensions!

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Ok so plumbing the tank.


With this being a rimless tank and me trying to stick to the clean design I decided that nothing was going to be on the rim of the tank. And almost nothing equipment wise should be in the tank was well.


So looking for options I first was going to do an external overflow, but after seeing the builds that people did each of them had issues. Adding an external box doesn't allow you to paint the back of the tank first. When you silcone the box to the back it is then sticking to paint, not glass so its going to eventually fail. Painting the back after attaching the box leaves a visible outline when viewed from the inside of tank. The best option is using an entire piece of black acrylic for the inside of the tank and then attaching the box to the back of the unpainted glass.


The next option that I liked even more was the Xaqua and Oceanlife overflows. However they are hard to find in the US, and the supplier that had them no longer imports them.


I looked into having them shipped from the UK but for the cost of the plastic and shipping I had to reconsider.


So, here is my plan. Please critique and give me feedback on what you think. I may have to do something that isn't really done often, but someone had to be the first person to make the Mame, Durso, Herbie, etc.

The design will be similar to the upturned elbow drain.


It is a fairly simple design pretty much copying the X-InOut.


Here is the product.



And the drilling diagram



So its basically a fancy 1" bulkhead (42mm hole) with a built in weir and a 1/2" return (30mm hole) with a pulsing effect.

My plan is to use regular 1" bulkheads covered with slotted covers and then use the LSS Labratory Mini Water Accelerators for the return. (Marine Depot says they are getting the Mini version soon, but I feel like they are using the Blizzard soontm and it will push my build out for a while.) I ordered a few small pieces of locline so I can use that it they are available.





Video of the LSS Laboratory Wave Accelerators if you haven't seen them


Now where to put them? My thinking was putting them on the back of the tank is fine as I can hide everything if I paint the back black. Problem is the returns. With the locline or mini accelerator the returns are blasting very close to the front of the tank with it being so narrow. Other option is to put them on the end and then the returns push water along the entire length of the tank. I'm kinda leaning towards this as it lets me keep the back completely clean and allows me to keep it clear, or at a later date add frosted or black backgrounds whenever I feel like it. This just has the issue of showing the plumbing on the sides of the tank. To keep it as clean as possible I tried to find "low profile" bulkhead elbows but almost every online plumbing store has them as discontinued, or they have low stock in blue or white.


Picture of a discontinued elbow I would have liked, in black.



Bulkhead locations (They will be drilled through the tank, they are resting on the top to visualize placement)





Sorry that was kind of long winded but this is a fairly critical area of the build and I would like people's opinions.

Edited by Scorched_Ice7
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Tell me more about the LED fixture you got. How much, where did you get it.. and PICS!!! Please!






This is the light, but I bought it off of an ebay seller that buys them in bulk from China. So I was able to pay significantly less. I talk a little bit about it in post #8.


I wanted a long LED light fixture that was similar to the Marineland light but with more power than the Reef version they sold. The other powerful LED lights sold (Radion, Sol, etc) usually have a square dimension so to light a long narrow tank would have taken more than 1 and would have had lots of excess light on the front or back.


When I got the light from the seller it was missing the hanging kit I requested so the seller reimbursed me $30 which is the price of most hanging kits. I used that money to buy one off BRS and will be drilling and taping the holes for it tomorrow or this weekend. I will post pictures of my actual light once its hanging.

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Thanks guys. Anyone have any opinions on plumbing?


Black background with plumbing on the back, or plumbing exposed on the sides while keeping the back clear.



A little rock sawing. Having dry rock makes it so easy to do things like this.



This was my original vision. Which I do like a lot.

Layout 1



Layout 2



Layout 3



However after a little playing I think I like the configuration the most. It really opens up the sand bed. Coral or anemone placement my be a little harder with the top of the pedestal rock being close to the water surface.

Layout 4



I was going to hang the light friday night before I left work but realized the metal on my light fixture is a lot thicker than I thought, so I had to go buy a thread tabbing bit so that my suspension kit can screw into the holes.

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With the bit about drilling... I am working on a Mr. Aqua as well, the 17.4. This is how I ended up with the drilling.... glass-holes.com nano box in the middle and two returns on either side. Drilling was a walk in the park. I don't know if my neighbors were too happy to hear me punching 3 holes in glass at 9pm on a Monday night though :D






The plumbers puddy and guide worked well. Just put something under where you are drilling to catch the glass. I used the bubble wrap from the packing the packaging the overflow came in. I also placed paper towel over it to catch the water. Water started to dribble out before the drill went through all the way. I am guessing you've drilled glass before, but for whoever hasn't..... :o

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