AquaStyleOnline Club

[Yaman]

Heatsink 7.1" X 14"

 

2xMaxwellen 12-20 drivers

 

Plan is to run only blue on one and the rest on the other one. Problem is that im gonna get to much volt on the blue string so maybe i shoud remove some blue, or put some blue in the other string?

 

My kit comes to morrow and i cant figure out how i shoud set them

 

Any input about this one?

[jedimasterben]

Heatsink 7.1" X 14"

 

2xMaxwellen 12-20 drivers

 

Plan is to run only blue on one and the rest on the other one. Problem is that im gonna get to much volt on the blue string so maybe i shoud remove some blue, or put some blue in the other string?

 

My kit comes to morrow and i cant figure out how i shoud set them

 

Any input about this one?

Either layout should look fine, just be sure not to exceed 70v per driver.

[Yaman]

Either layout should look fine, just be sure not to exceed 70v per driver.

 

 

The light is superb...thx for the help m8

[jedimasterben]

The light is superb...thx for the help m8

No problem, glad you like it.

[misbar]

No problem, glad you like it.

 

I am about to install my kit on my RSM130

 

What is the best way for me to arrange the LEDS on the heatsink I am going with 14RB and 10 4500k

 

Thanks

[jedimasterben]

I am about to install my kit on my RSM130

 

What is the best way for me to arrange the LEDS on the heatsink I am going with 14RB and 10 4500k

 

Thanks

Just cluster them together tightly to avoid disco.

[misbar]

Just cluster them together tightly to avoid disco.

 

Cluster all of them in the center as close as possible?

[jedimasterben]

Cluster all of them in the center as close as possible?

Was thinking the RSM130 was smaller than it is, d'oh. Space out clusters by around 4-6" for nice, even coverage. Just make two clusters, each with 5x NW and 7x RB.

[jpc763]

Reading (or at least skimming) 51 pages is exhausting! The info is great though.

 

I am getting close to taking the LED plunge for my 29G Biocube. Mine is the Coralife version and there is very little info on LED upgrades for it unfortunately.

 

I am considering the 36 LED dimmable kit and pieced one together on the Aquastyleonline site. Here is what I put together. From what I read, these kits come with too many whites. How should I adjust?

 

18 White 4500K

16 Blue

2 Red

 

Which drivers should I get? There were 4 choices

◦Maxwellen driver

◦MeanWell ELN-60-48D

◦MeanWell ELN-60-48P

◦MeanWell LPF-60D-48

 

Which optics should I use? I have read that if you mount in a hood, don't use any optics.

 

Any help would be appreciated. If I missed a post with this info, please forgive me and let me know where to look

 

Thanks in advance!

 

John

[jedimasterben]

check out the last few pages, I think there were a few with the same (or similarly sized) tanks.

[jpc763]

check out the last few pages, I think there were a few with the same (or similarly sized) tanks.

Looked back again over the past 4 pages and the tank that seems closest to mine is Yaman's. His is a 21g and mine is a 29g.

 

What I gather is for a 29g biocube using a 36 dimmable kit...

- I should do a 2:3 ratio of 4500K to Royal Blue so 12 4500K and 18 Royal Blue.

- Add 2 Reds, 2 Cyans & 2 Violets and then mount them in clusters, as close together as possible.

- Wire them up with all Blue's on one string and all others on the other string

- Maxwellen drivers are fine

- Drop the optics

 

Sound about right?

 

Thanks for your help!

[jedimasterben]

Looked back again over the past 4 pages and the tank that seems closest to mine is Yaman's. His is a 21g and mine is a 29g.

 

What I gather is for a 29g biocube using a 36 dimmable kit...

- I should do a 2:3 ratio of 4500K to Royal Blue so 12 4500K and 18 Royal Blue.

- Add 2 Reds, 2 Cyans & 2 Violets and then mount them in clusters, as close together as possible.

- Wire them up with all Blue's on one string and all others on the other string

- Maxwellen drivers are fine

- Drop the optics

 

Sound about right?

 

Thanks for your help!

Change the exotics to 3x each and add in cool blue.

 

Use a minimum of three drivers. One white, one blue/violet (though this wouldn't work with 21 LEDs, the drivers barely can run 20 LEDs), and one for red, cool blue, cyan.

 

Maxwellen drivers are fine if you don't mind crappy dimming and lower reliability than other drivers. If you're looking for a simple on-off solution, then they're good.

 

No optics on anything.

 

I'm in the works of changing things up a bit, calculating how many LEDs per and such, and what kind of output to expect from them, but I think that 12x NW and 18x RB will be a whole lotta light over a 29g Biocube. I think more along the lines of 8x NW and 12-16x RB (depends on how blue you want it without having to dim any down) would fit the bill better, with three of each of the four exotics.

[jpc763]

Change the exotics to 3x each and add in cool blue.

 

Use a minimum of three drivers. One white, one blue/violet (though this wouldn't work with 21 LEDs, the drivers barely can run 20 LEDs), and one for red, cool blue, cyan.

 

Maxwellen drivers are fine if you don't mind crappy dimming and lower reliability than other drivers. If you're looking for a simple on-off solution, then they're good.

 

No optics on anything.

 

I'm in the works of changing things up a bit, calculating how many LEDs per and such, and what kind of output to expect from them, but I think that 12x NW and 18x RB will be a whole lotta light over a 29g Biocube. I think more along the lines of 8x NW and 12-16x RB (depends on how blue you want it without having to dim any down) would fit the bill better, with three of each of the four exotics.

Awesome! Thanks!

 

When you say cool blue are you refering to these?

Bridgelux 3W LED Blue (not Royal Blue)

•Wavelength: 462-465nm

 

Now it looks like:

8 4500K

16 Royal Blue

3 Violet

3 Red

3 Cyan

3 Cool Blue

 

Am I on the right track?

 

For organization, I would probably have 3 groups of LED's with 1 each of the exotics and then some of each of the Royal and 4500K.

 

Which controller would you recommend?

◦MeanWell ELN-60-48D

◦MeanWell ELN-60-48P

◦MeanWell LPF-60D-48

 

Thanks again for your help!

 

John

[jpc763]

Awesome! Thanks!

 

When you say cool blue are you refering to these?

Bridgelux 3W LED Blue (not Royal Blue)

•Wavelength: 462-465nm

 

Now it looks like:

8 4500K

16 Royal Blue

3 Violet

3 Red

3 Cyan

3 Cool Blue

 

Am I on the right track?

 

For organization, I would probably have 3 groups of LED's with 1 each of the exotics and then some of each of the Royal and 4500K.

 

Which controller would you recommend?

◦MeanWell ELN-60-48D

◦MeanWell ELN-60-48P

◦MeanWell LPF-60D-48

 

Thanks again for your help!

 

John

Any input on this setup? Thanks!

[ALexpsycho]

I would go for the P ones.They seem to work great with adruinos.

[jedimasterben]

Any input on this setup? Thanks!

Looks good. For drivers, the 48P needs a PWM input from a controller such as an Arduino, Thyphon, or Reef Angel or it won't work, the 48D needs a 0-10v dimming circuit or controller like a Reefkeeper or Apex or it won't work. The LPF driver is hella expensive, but will work with just a potentiometer, 0-10v, or PWM.

 

I would go for the P ones.They seem to work great with adruinos.

Yes, but won't even turn on without it.

[sticks]

Hay Jedi, In post 931 you said you gave a friend some LED's for his BC29 I have a few questions if you don't mind. how are they clustered? how are the drivers hooked up and how many? How was the end result? Also what is he keeping in his tank? Or if you have any other suggestions it would be appreciated. thanks.

[rrr757]

All,

 

I also have a BC29 that I am going to retrofit in the hood. I recently purchased a used aquastyle led system with the following combination.

 

Driver 1 currently has 16- 10k's

Driver 2 currently has 16- RB's

Driver 3 currently has 12- UV's and 6 RB's

 

All drivers are on dimmable pots.

 

The current heatsink wont fit in the hood so will redo the layout and heatsink.

 

Please note, on small budget, so do not mind doing things slowly, prefer not to spend an arm and leg.

 

Questions.

1. How many LED's do I have to change with the current configuration to support SPS, I know 10k's are crap from all 50+ posts I have read. But can I get away with the RB/10K White/UV's? or even with just replacing all the 10K whites with 45K's?

2. If you suggest other colors, please let me know from which site I can order ie - aquastyle or ledgroupbuy keep in mind my preference is not to change any or keep my cost down as much as possible

3. How many total LED's (all 50) should I use and how should I cluster and what drivers to which combinations.

4. Should I expect much of a temp. difference compared to the heat the current power compacts give off?

 

Thanks for any help.

[jedimasterben]

Hay Jedi, In post 931 you said you gave a friend some LED's for his BC29 I have a few questions if you don't mind. how are they clustered? how are the drivers hooked up and how many? How was the end result? Also what is he keeping in his tank? Or if you have any other suggestions it would be appreciated. thanks.

See below.

 

All,

 

I also have a BC29 that I am going to retrofit in the hood. I recently purchased a used aquastyle led system with the following combination.

 

Driver 1 currently has 16- 10k's

Driver 2 currently has 16- RB's

Driver 3 currently has 12- UV's and 6 RB's

 

All drivers are on dimmable pots.

 

The current heatsink wont fit in the hood so will redo the layout and heatsink.

 

Please note, on small budget, so do not mind doing things slowly, prefer not to spend an arm and leg.

 

Questions.

1. How many LED's do I have to change with the current configuration to support SPS, I know 10k's are crap from all 50+ posts I have read. But can I get away with the RB/10K White/UV's? or even with just replacing all the 10K whites with 45K's?

2. If you suggest other colors, please let me know from which site I can order ie - aquastyle or ledgroupbuy keep in mind my preference is not to change any or keep my cost down as much as possible

3. How many total LED's (all 50) should I use and how should I cluster and what drivers to which combinations.

4. Should I expect much of a temp. difference compared to the heat the current power compacts give off?

 

Thanks for any help.

If you plan on keeping SPS, ditch the 10K. SPS are colorful coral, and LEDs with such piss-poor color rendition will drown out that color. Zero point in using anything but neutral white.

 

If you actually have the UV chips and not true violet, throw them in the garbage can and do NOT use them over your tank. UV light is destructive to coral tissue. Again, do NOT use them. Ever.

 

 

After seeing how much light they are putting out, I have determined I really need to order my PAR sensor probe to get you guys some actual numbers. For now, I'll leave it at this:

 

6-8x NW

9-12x RB (or 12-16x if you like really blue)

3x cool blue

3x deep red

3x cyan

4x violet

 

Run the whites on their own driver, the royal blue and violet on one, and the rest on a separate driver.

[rrr757]

Thanks for the response. Let me get the drivers that I have, believe its the maxwellens

 

I want to use 16x RB for sure. I like the more blue color.

 

Will talk then about layout in clusters and if I need to switch colors on drivers if its the 12-20 led per driver.

 

Thanks

 

See below.

 

 

If you plan on keeping SPS, ditch the 10K. SPS are colorful coral, and LEDs with such piss-poor color rendition will drown out that color. Zero point in using anything but neutral white.

 

If you actually have the UV chips and not true violet, throw them in the garbage can and do NOT use them over your tank. UV light is destructive to coral tissue. Again, do NOT use them. Ever.

 

 

After seeing how much light they are putting out, I have determined I really need to order my PAR sensor probe to get you guys some actual numbers. For now, I'll leave it at this:

 

6-8x NW

9-12x RB (or 12-16x if you like really blue)

3x cool blue

3x deep red

3x cyan

4x violet

 

Run the whites on their own driver, the royal blue and violet on one, and the rest on a separate driver.

[sticks]

See below.

 

 

If you plan on keeping SPS, ditch the 10K. SPS are colorful coral, and LEDs with such piss-poor color rendition will drown out that color. Zero point in using anything but neutral white.

 

If you actually have the UV chips and not true violet, throw them in the garbage can and do NOT use them over your tank. UV light is destructive to coral tissue. Again, do NOT use them. Ever.

 

 

After seeing how much light they are putting out, I have determined I really need to order my PAR sensor probe to get you guys some actual numbers. For now, I'll leave it at this:

 

6-8x NW

9-12x RB (or 12-16x if you like really blue)

3x cool blue

3x deep red

3x cyan

4x violet

 

Run the whites on their own driver, the royal blue and violet on one, and the rest on a separate driver.

Forgive me I am not very knowledgeable about LED'S.

when you say NW is that 6500k, 4500k or 2800k?

The deep red is that the epileds 3w red?

The violet is that the actinic?

And if you don't mind how would you configure that if i were to use the following?

 

8 xNW

12xRB

3x cool blue

3x deep red

3x cyan

4x violet

 

Thanks again I have very little knowledge of LED lighting.

[jedimasterben]

Forgive me I am not very knowledgeable about LED'S.

when you say NW is that 6500k, 4500k or 2800k?

The deep red is that the epileds 3w red?

The violet is that the actinic?

And if you don't mind how would you configure that if i were to use the following?

 

8 xNW

12xRB

3x cool blue

3x deep red

3x cyan

4x violet

 

Thanks again I have very little knowledge of LED lighting.

Neutral white would be 4500k.

 

Deep red is the Epileds, yes.

 

The violet is whatever doesn't say UV.

 

And what do you mean by configure?

[sticks]

Neutral white would be 4500k.

 

Deep red is the Epileds, yes.

 

The violet is whatever doesn't say UV.

 

And what do you mean by configure?

How would you cluster them together?

[jedimasterben]

Have the three clusters of DR/CB/Cy as tightly together, one in the dead center of the heatsink, and the other two closer to the ends of the sink. Then cluster the NW, RB, and V around them, making sure to keep each NW touching the RB next to it to help eliminate spotlighting and disco.

[sticks]

Have the three clusters of DR/CB/Cy as tightly together, one in the dead center of the heatsink, and the other two closer to the ends of the sink. Then cluster the NW, RB, and V around them, making sure to keep each NW touching the RB next to it to help eliminate spotlighting and disco.

Thanks for all the help!