Tashar59 Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 Right now all I have are shrooms, zoa's, sponge, a birdsnest, colt and xenia. But with the bigger tank I can do all kinds. So if I go with the 40g at 16" I should be fine without optics but if I go for the 55 or 75. I should use optics. In that case would 60 or 80 be the better choice. I have built a couple of light sets now. 3:2 ratio RB:NW is what I like. With the small tanks I never had to use optics. Thanks for the reply. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 Right now all I have are shrooms, zoa's, sponge, a birdsnest, colt and xenia. But with the bigger tank I can do all kinds. So if I go with the 40g at 16" I should be fine without optics but if I go for the 55 or 75. I should use optics. In that case would 60 or 80 be the better choice. I have built a couple of light sets now. 3:2 ratio RB:NW is what I like. With the small tanks I never had to use optics. Thanks for the reply. If you go with a taller tank, I would do 80 degree optics. I used 60 degree on a 55g and it was too much and had a lot of disco from the colors not blending well. Link to comment
Tashar59 Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 If you go with a taller tank, I would do 80 degree optics. I used 60 degree on a 55g and it was too much and had a lot of disco from the colors not blending well. I was thinkong of going with Lux LEDs from Steve's but all they have are 60 and 90. would the 90's work? for 21" deep tank. Link to comment
mopiko Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 Placed an order last Saturday, received it Wednesday today! Gonna start planning the placement of the LED. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 I was thinkong of going with Lux LEDs from Steve's but all they have are 60 and 90. would the 90's work? for 21" deep tank. 90 should do fine. I had 60 on my 55g (21" tall) and it was too tight, made a lot of disco. Link to comment
mopiko Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 Nanocube 12G display area = 10(L) x 16(W) x 11(H) Ive purchased a total of 19 LEDs as below from Aquastyle: 9 RB 6 NW 2 TV 1 Cyan 1 ReD *NO COOL BLUE* - since shipping cost a bomb -2 drivers LED will be mounted in hood. Below is my draft on the LED layout. Is that an ideal placement for LED in a small tank? 1. Is 19 LED overkill for my nanocube? If so, how many RB&NW should i reduce to? 2. Will i get spotlight effect since it will be mounted in hood? 3. Correct me: I have only 2 drivers only. So is it correct to solder NW,RED,CYAN,TV in 1 driver. And all RB on another driver? Please advise. 1st time handling circuits and solder attempt. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 Nanocube 12G display area = 10(L) x 16(W) x 11(H) Ive purchased a total of 19 LEDs as below from Aquastyle: 9 RB 6 NW 2 TV 1 Cyan 1 ReD *NO COOL BLUE* - since shipping cost a bomb -2 drivers LED will be mounted in hood. Below is my draft on the LED layout. Is that an ideal placement for LED in a small tank? 1. Is 19 LED overkill for my nanocube? If so, how many RB&NW should i reduce to? 2. Will i get spotlight effect since it will be mounted in hood? 3. Correct me: I have only 2 drivers only. So is it correct to solder NW,RED,CYAN,TV in 1 driver. And all RB on another driver? Please advise. 1st time handling circuits and solder attempt. i think it is a bit overkill, but as long as you have a dimmable kit, you should be alright. dont run optics and it shouldnt be too horrible, just push the leds as closely together as possible, with red and cyan in the dead center. i would run the nw, red, and cyan on one, then rb and violet on the other. Link to comment
jtgordon20 Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 Jedimaster, just how close can you get LEDs so you can still wire them up? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 Jedimaster, just how close can you get LEDs so you can still wire them up? all of mine are touching, and i have no problem soldering them up. Link to comment
mopiko Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 i think it is a bit overkill, but as long as you have a dimmable kit, you should be alright. dont run optics and it shouldnt be too horrible, just push the leds as closely together as possible, with red and cyan in the dead center. i would run the nw, red, and cyan on one, then rb and violet on the other. Thanks for advise. Will proceed as planned.! Link to comment
jtgordon20 Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 Maybe something like this? How far spread out should this be on the heatsink? the heat sink is the 12" one Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 How far spread out should this be on the heatsink? the heat sink is the 12" one They can be clustered pretty tightly into the center and you should still get good coverage over the whole tank. Link to comment
jtgordon20 Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 I mounted all LED's and I wired up the blue string. I was confident and hooked up the driver temporarily and plugged it in. I have some questions. 1. Is it normal for it to take a little to light up? 2. Is it normal for it to take a little to shut all the way off when. Its unplugged? Also it seemed like it lit the other LEDs up so I'm thinking maybe some how the current is going on to the heatsink. Would that make the slow reaction to the blue string with starting up and turning off? How can I fix this? Thank you! Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 I mounted all LED's and I wired up the blue string. I was confident and hooked up the driver temporarily and plugged it in. I have some questions. 1. Is it normal for it to take a little to light up? 2. Is it normal for it to take a little to shut all the way off when. Its unplugged? Also it seemed like it lit the other LEDs up so I'm thinking maybe some how the current is going on to the heatsink. Would that make the slow reaction to the blue string with starting up and turning off? How can I fix this? Thank you! what drivers, the maxwellen? when i used them, it would take a second or two for them to come on, and when unplugged, if they were dimmed any, it would take forever to drain of current. Link to comment
jtgordon20 Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Yeah, the maxwellen. So no worry with what they are doing? I'll have to check again when I finish wiring them but I seemed like it made the other LEDs glow For my first time soldering I was nervous but I this I did great! Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Yeah, the maxwellen.So no worry with what they are doing? I'll have to check again when I finish wiring them but I seemed like it made the other LEDs glow For my first time soldering I was nervous but I this I did great! how close are the leds? there is definitely some light leak from them even with optics, so it can indeed look like the others are coming on. Link to comment
jtgordon20 Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Really close, maybe 1/8" between each star in the clusters. So nothing to worry about a current going to other unlit LEDs? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Really close, maybe 1/8" between each star in the clusters.So nothing to worry about a current going to other unlit LEDs? i very, very highly doubt it. your driver would blow nearly instantly if that were the case. im almost 100% positive it is just light being reflected off the diode. Link to comment
jtgordon20 Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Okay sounds good. Now that I have it wired is there anything special to do to the wired string? I'm just waiting for time to be able to pick up the stuff to make it clean like project box for the drivers and something to hide the heatsink in. Does anyone know a build thread where they enclosed the heatsink with the drivers nd just run the powercord from it? I think it would look cleaner and easier to move. Link to comment
jtgordon20 Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Here's my first string wired up. Was way easier than I expected, thought I'd mess it up lol I planned all the + and - so it would line up easier for wiring. Anyone know of a LED build with pictures where they kept everything near the heatsink with just the power cords coming off? I'm think of maybe using wood for the enclosure so its not as costly. Link to comment
Yaman Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 Your Order Contains the Following Items: ◦ 1 x 36 LEDs DIY Dimmable Kit (LED Color Options: 18 White 16 Blue 2 Red, LED Drivers: Maxwellen 12-20 LEDs, Heatsink(w/ fan kit): 18cmX40cm(7.1" X 15.8")(+$27), White LEDs: 50% 6500K 50% 4500K, Optics: 80 degree) ◦ 1 x Bridgelux LED 3W Royal Blue ◦ 1 x Bridgelux LED 3W white 4500K ◦ 1 x Bridgelux LED 3W white 6500K ◦ 2 x 420nm Actinic Violet LED ◦ 1 x Moonlight kit (no. of modules: 3) Got some extra leds as spare, 2 actinic for test only. Suppose i cant use them on this 2 drivers whit the rest. This gonna be placed in the hood on a 80 liters nano cube Regards Sweden Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 Your Order Contains the Following Items:◦ 1 x 36 LEDs DIY Dimmable Kit (LED Color Options: 18 White 16 Blue 2 Red, LED Drivers: Maxwellen 12-20 LEDs, Heatsink(w/ fan kit): 18cmX40cm(7.1" X 15.8")(+$27), White LEDs: 50% 6500K 50% 4500K, Optics: 80 degree) ◦ 1 x Bridgelux LED 3W Royal Blue ◦ 1 x Bridgelux LED 3W white 4500K ◦ 1 x Bridgelux LED 3W white 6500K ◦ 2 x 420nm Actinic Violet LED ◦ 1 x Moonlight kit (no. of modules: 3) Got some extra leds as spare, 2 actinic for test only. Suppose i cant use them on this 2 drivers whit the rest. This gonna be placed in the hood on a 80 liters nano cube Regards Sweden It's going to be very, very white/yellow without significant dimming on the white string. Link to comment
Yaman Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 It's going to be very, very white/yellow without significant dimming on the white string. I changed my order to 18 royal blue and 18 white 50/50 4500,6500k 20min after i posted here. Skipping the red ones. The actinic is only for testing Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 I changed my order to 18 royal blue and 18 white 50/50 4500,6500k 20min after i posted here. Skipping the red ones. The actinic is only for testing Again, it's going to be very white/yellow without significant dimming on the white string. Link to comment
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