AquaStyleOnline Club

[albertthiel]

Jedimater ...

 

What is your opinion on CFT's with a high K rating e.g. 5000 or more ... just wondering. Thanks

[jedimasterben]

May be ordering here in a week. Want to see what it will cover Max for the future

Basically, you'll want 4-5x clusters of 2 NW and 3 RB, and 4x clusters of 1 deep red, 1 cool blue, 1 cyan, and 4-6 violet per 24"x24" area.

 

Jedimater ...

 

What is your opinion on CFT's with a high K rating e.g. 5000 or more ... just wondering. Thanks

CFT? You mean CFL, the spiral lights? Corals love it - the PAR is very high from them and depending on the reflector (I use clip-on aluminum ones from Home Depot, they're like $5 or something), they can punch down pretty far. My corals and anemones looked happier with 4x 13w 5000K CFL on my 55g than they did with a big custom LED setup (but the LEDs had no optics and were hung high, so they weren't getting good PAR down in the tank).

[albertthiel]

Basically, you'll want 4-5x clusters of 2 NW and 3 RB, and 4x clusters of 1 deep red, 1 cool blue, 1 cyan, and 4-6 violet per 24"x24" area.

 

 

CFT? You mean CFL, the spiral lights? Corals love it - the PAR is very high from them and depending on the reflector (I use clip-on aluminum ones from Home Depot, they're like $5 or something), they can punch down pretty far. My corals and anemones looked happier with 4x 13w 5000K CFL on my 55g than they did with a big custom LED setup (but the LEDs had no optics and were hung high, so they weren't getting good PAR down in the tank).

 

Yes those are the ones. Compact fluorescent tubes. I am temporarily using a 100 watt equivalent 5000K over the newly set up 20G High. Looks pretty bright. Tank is still cycling so no animals in it yet. I may add a second one tomorrow. Any thoughts on using them for LPS corals?

Thanks

[jedimasterben]

Yes those are the ones. Compact fluorescent tubes. I am temporarily using a 100 watt equivalent 5000K over the newly set up 20G High. Looks pretty bright. Tank is still cycling so no animals in it yet. I may add a second one tomorrow. Any thoughts on using them for LPS corals?

Thanks

At first I was like OMG where did he find a 100w CFL?!?! Then I figured out it's a 23w (although I have seen actual 100w CFL bulbs, they are MASSIVE!). The 23w'ers are very bright. Any coral should love it. Corals should be able to use whatever spectrum you give them (some favia sp. can use the entire spectrum from about 350nm to around 740nm), and 5000k is the best mix between having a good amount of blue while keeping red and yellow. Doesn't look the best to us, but corals should grow very well under them. Would definitely be ok to use while trying to figure out what kind of lighting you will have over the tank in the end.

[albertthiel]

At first I was like OMG where did he find a 100w CFL?!?! Then I figured out it's a 23w (although I have seen actual 100w CFL bulbs, they are MASSIVE!). The 23w'ers are very bright. Any coral should love it. Corals should be able to use whatever spectrum you give them (some favia sp. can use the entire spectrum from about 350nm to around 740nm), and 5000k is the best mix between having a good amount of blue while keeping red and yellow. Doesn't look the best to us, but corals should grow very well under them. Would definitely be ok to use while trying to figure out what kind of lighting you will have over the tank in the end.

 

Thanks Jedimaster ... and yes this is really just temporarily until I figure out what light I really want over the tank (20G H0 ...

 

Thanks for your input ... mine is rated at 23 watt and 100 watt equivalent .. 5000kelvin.

 

Nice look on the tank and bright it is for sure. Thanks for your input.

[najluni15]

Hey jedi

 

I know you had a pic somewhere but I can't find it. How would you arrange the clusters of 3rb:2nw:1tv:1r:1g:1cb?

I'm going to have six of these clusters in two lines of 3 over my 57 gallon and wanted to see how to do this. Both drivers will be set to the same setting and dim at the same time because I can't get all of the exotics on one driver.

 

Thanks

[jedimasterben]

Hey jedi

 

I know you had a pic somewhere but I can't find it. How would you arrange the clusters of 3rb:2nw:1tv:1r:1g:1cb?

I'm going to have six of these clusters in two lines of 3 over my 57 gallon and wanted to see how to do this. Both drivers will be set to the same setting and dim at the same time because I can't get all of the exotics on one driver.

 

Thanks

In my clusters, the whites are in the middle with everything else around them.

[najluni15]

GreaT

[Chrisl1976]

Great thread!!!

Looking at the 24 LED kit for my JBJ28. What is the optimal setup for that? Looking to keep SPS ans LPS.

 

Since the MeanWell ELN-60-48P drivers can be run from something like a RKL, can you also use them from a POT if you don't have the RKL system yet?

 

Thanks

[jedimasterben]

Great thread!!!

Looking at the 24 LED kit for my JBJ28. What is the optimal setup for that? Looking to keep SPS ans LPS.

 

Since the MeanWell ELN-60-48P drivers can be run from something like a RKL, can you also use them from a POT if you don't have the RKL system yet?

 

Thanks

I'd recommend more than 24 LEDs over an 18x18 area if you're gonna keep SPS, my two cents. Look through the last few pages to get an idea of what to go for, as far as colors, numbers of LEDs, clustering, etc.

 

And no, Meanwells require a 10v input for dimming, you'll need a 10v A/C adapter in line with the potentiometer to provide the reference voltage for dimming, you can't just hook up a pot to it.

[wrx1908]

Hello just wanted to post a update to my 40B with aquastyle LEDs over it

[ReefDiva]

You would need to cut the end off of that and expose the positive and negative bare wires. Then you need to attach them, along with the potentiometer, to the dimming leads on the driver where you have the potentiometer connected currently. Once I get home I will make you a diagram of it that will be easier to figure out than me just explaining it, I'm not the best at trying to explain things, I begin to ramble.

 

Hi Jedi,

Were you able to make the diagram explaining the connections I need to make in order to get my LED system functioning properly?

[jedimasterben]

Hi Jedi,

Were you able to make the diagram explaining the connections I need to make in order to get my LED system functioning properly?

Actually just found one that someone posted!

 

[zachts]

Okay Thanks for your help. I don't really need a Meanwell driver--as I no longer plan to have them dimmed via my ACJr. They will just be controlled on and off like they are currently through my digital controller. So, with that being said, what will be the easiest route to get these going correctly---switching to a MaxWellen dimmable Driver? If this is so, can I possible get one at the hardware store or Radio Shack? If not, where is the best place to get them: AquaStyle?

I still don't understand why the Blue works fine, but the Whites don't since they both have the same driver.

 

ReefDiva,

 

If your drivers are indeed the LPF series as you mention and as it apears in your picture then you likely have the incorect potentiometer for the white string that isn't working properly. (otherwise you have it connected corectly) Ray may have shipped one of the 22ohm pots that are used for the maxwellen drivers by mistake. with that pot you will get only the minimum output from the driver as is the case with what you are observing. all you need to do is go to radio shack and get a 100kohm pot and it will work like it is supposed to.

 

also the LPFs will simply be all on at 100% brightness if you just cap off the diming wires. they essentialy work backwards from the other 0-10v meanwell drivers (ELN seriese) 0 volts = 100% brightness and 10volts = 10% brightness. they wont' go off completely with the dimmer.

[zachts]

I stand corrected, just looked at the dimming schematic, 0-10 volt dimming works the same as other drivers.

[jedimasterben]

I stand corrected, just looked at the dimming schematic, 0-10 volt dimming works the same as other drivers.

ReefDiva's drivers are ELN series, not LPF series, so they must be provided a reference voltage from an outside source.

[albertthiel]

ReefDiva's drivers are ELN series, not LPF series, so they must be provided a reference voltage from an outside source.

 

I am always amazed about your knowledge about LED lighting ... wow !

[zachts]

Okay,

 

My Meanwell drivers came from AquaStyle & are version (LPF-60D-48) and they each are connected to a separate outside pot provided by AquaStyle Online. I have included three photos. One photo is an actual picture showing how the White, Dark Red, Cyan & True Violet LEDs look when they are "on." Another photo is of the actual driver & the remaining photo shows the pot which dims these leds.

 

Correct me if I miss read but in post 891 that is clearly an LPF driver...........

 

......in which case he just has the wrong type of potentiometer.

[jedimasterben]

Correct me if I miss read but in post 891 that is clearly an LPF driver...........

 

......in which case he just has the wrong type of potentiometer.

OMG I was looking at the wrong post! Thanks for pointing that out, I knew that the LPF didn't need an external reference voltage but I don't know why I kept thinking it was an ELN! I feel like a dick now.

[zachts]

no worries

[jedimasterben]

I've been running myself ragged at work the past couple of weeks, it's starting to get to me, I think! Good thing I'll be on vacation come the 10th! Kentucky, here I come!

[zachts]

Jedi,

 

back to my previous post about the violets. was it just your violets that browned out or whites and blues as well. I need to start a thread on the topic over here (have one on RC) but mine are totaly fried. not just a small brown spot over the diode.

 

Thanks,

[jedimasterben]

Jedi,

 

back to my previous post about the violets. was it just your violets that browned out or whites and blues as well. I need to start a thread on the topic over here (have one on RC) but mine are totaly fried. not just a small brown spot over the diode.

 

Thanks,

Just the violets. It is most likely the little bit of UV discoloring the lens of the diode.

 

Yours are totally shot? Wow, that's awful. Mine still work and throw out just as much color as they did when I got them.

[zachts]

I totaly aggree about the UV spectrum possibly degrading the plastic lense that comes with them. I havent found any evidence to support that yet but am looking.

 

They are not totally shot, just like yours they still work but the little plastic domes over the diode litteraly burned and melted. I had to chip them off very carfully with tweazers. the LEDs still are working but the lense melted into the underliying protective dome below the stock optic and has redused the over all output somewhat. maybe 30% but its hard to say just eyeing things.

 

mine were using the 60 degree optics also. Kcress sugessted that it might be due to the lack of cooling of the optic but I don't buy that as only the violets burned. I'm still exprerimenting, and maybe the solution is to just pop off the little plastic dome from the start?

[jedimasterben]

I totaly aggree about the UV spectrum possibly degrading the plastic lense that comes with them. I havent found any evidence to support that yet but am looking.

 

They are not totally shot, just like yours they still work but the little plastic domes over the diode litteraly burned and melted. I had to chip them off very carfully with tweazers. the LEDs still are working but the lense melted into the underliying protective dome below the stock optic and has redused the over all output somewhat. maybe 30% but its hard to say just eyeing things.

 

mine were using the 60 degree optics also. Kcress sugessted that it might be due to the lack of cooling of the optic but I don't buy that as only the violets burned. I'm still exprerimenting, and maybe the solution is to just pop off the little plastic dome from the start?

I have not been using any optics on mine and they have been heatsinked the entire time, temperatures ranging from 30°C to 40°C, so well below their thermal threshold.