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Coral Vue Hydros

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basicfisherman

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could you post a picture of what yours looked like? here is the picture of some of mine after three months of operations. (alhough these are not from aquastyle, my aquastyle ones are burning as well, I can see it through the optics I just havent taken the fixture apart yet to photograph). these were from LED group buy. but basically the same thing is happening as far as I can see. As soon as I have time to dismatle my aquastyle fixture I'll post pics of that as well.

post-75153-1341203555_thumb.jpg

 

Thanks,

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jtgordon20
Should do the trick.

 

 

I would do:

 

6x NW

9x RB

2x deep red

2x cyan

2x cool blue (order from LEDGroupBuy)

4x violet

 

As for drivers, what does your budget allow? Preferably, you'd have one for white, one for royal blue, one for deep red, cyan, and cool blue, and one for violet. This won't work, however, with Aquastyle drivers as they need at least 24v in LEDs for the 7-12 driver, and the Meanwell drives need about the same, and they are significantly more expensive.

 

I would do one driver with the 6x NW and the red, cyan, and cool blue, AS LONG as you cluster them together as tightly as possible. Cool blue, deep red, and cyan combine to form a whitish light to our eyes, but will add some intense coloration and pop. I would do the other driver running the royal blue and violet, but you will need the larger driver for that string.

 

So that's one 7-12 and one 12-20 driver.

 

If you are retrofitting them into your hood, no optics, and use a small heatsink and cluster them as tightly together as possible, with clusters being made as two NW and three RB, and another cluster being deep red, cyan, and cool blue. The violet can be placed anywhere, as you won't see the light produced by them, but you will see their effect in coral color.

 

YEY!!! I just ordered my kit!! :D

Just to make sure I'm good, I got the 7.1" x 11.9" heatsink, now is that alright? The light will be used on a biocube14 for now and I may just pick up a 15G (24"x12"x12") tank, would it light that tank up well too?

 

I ask so many questions lol

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jedimasterben
YEY!!! I just ordered my kit!! :D

Just to make sure I'm good, I got the 7.1" x 11.9" heatsink, now is that alright? The light will be used on a biocube14 for now and I may just pick up a 15G (24"x12"x12") tank, would it light that tank up well too?

 

I ask so many questions lol

Should do well on either tank.

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jtgordon20

Yey!!! I cant wait for this to come in the mail. I'm sure i'll be picking your brain more when it does.

By chance do you know any great threads to read on putting it together?

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TeflonTomDosh

So, I picked up a biocube29 with the 24 led (10k x 12, fb x 12) retro kit in it. Straight trade (tank, stand, ,LR/LS) for an mp10 a couple weeks ago. My question would be, what can this set up support as far as corals go?

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jedimasterben
Yey!!! I cant wait for this to come in the mail. I'm sure i'll be picking your brain more when it does.

By chance do you know any great threads to read on putting it together?

Not particularly offhand, but there are plenty here in the lighting section. :)

 

So, I picked up a biocube29 with the 24 led (10k x 12, fb x 12) retro kit in it. Straight trade (tank, stand, ,LR/LS) for an mp10 a couple weeks ago. My question would be, what can this set up support as far as corals go?

You'll want to ditch the 10K and never, ever look back at them.

 

 

I just gave some LEDs to a friend for his Biocube 29, I recommended for him:

10x NW 4500k

15x RB

3x deep red

3x cyan

3x cool blue

6x violet

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jedimasterben
Would those be ok to run off the same 2 drivers I have now? If so, how should I split them up?

Depends on what drivers they are. Most likely not, and I would not recommend running them on two drivers. I'd recommend three drivers minimum. One for white, one for royal blue and violet, one for deep red/cyan/cool blue. If you can afford it, get 7x violet and run them on their own driver. They are very powerful LEDs.

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jtgordon20
This is how I did mine (these are using much more powerful Rebel ES LEDs, but the ratio of blue and white is the same, just mine are more powerful):

IMG_20120506_120456.jpg

 

How they are arranged:

 

---RB-CB-RB---

--V-NW-NW-V--

---DR-RB-C----

 

Now, for Bridgelux LEDs, if you used this cluster design for all of your clusters, you'd end up with too much cool blue, deep red, and cyan, UNLESS you run them on a separate driver and dim accordingly.

 

I recommend five clusters total for each 24"x24" area, (this gives about 2000 lumens of white and about 12,000mW of royal blue, so as powerful as a Radion without even including the other LEDs).

 

I just got my LEDs in today and I'm looking for more info on my layout for clustering. Could I do it similar to this picture you posted?

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jedimasterben
I just got my LEDs in today and I'm looking for more info on my layout for clustering. Could I do it similar to this picture you posted?

I will get back to you a little later tonight on this, ok? :)

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albertthiel

 

Hey Ben when you get a chance check out the discussion on kalkwasser on my thread and give us your insight into the adding sugar to the tank and its effect on the carbon sources (that's unless you switched to adding Vodka or vinegar)

 

Thanks

 

Albert

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jtgordon20

Also, what would be a good inexpensive soldering iron that I could get just for this project alone? Don't want to drop alot of money on it and what other supplies do I need for it? Flux is one thing right?

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albertthiel
I will get back to you a little later tonight on this, ok? :)

 

Ben did you see my message on my thread on how much sugar you are adding and how often and what you have found it achieves for you ... the topic of adding a carbon source came back up in the last couple of pages on my thread when we were talking about KW.

 

Wombat added an interesting fact about calcium hydroxide solubility when acetic acid or vinegar is used in conjunction with it and stated that it can increases the potency of the KW by 50 or so % ...

 

Lots of things went on last night after the discussion on KW and then on that ID of the growth on one of the members P's if I remember correctly ( I have to admit that I get so many messages that it is sometime hard to recall all of them in detail but I think it was on his Palythoas)

 

Anyway your input on sugar and carbon sources and anything else that went on and was posted yesterday would be appreciated Ben

 

Albert

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jedimasterben
Sounds great Ben. I have a while until I assemble it. Need to figure out layout now.

Maybe something like this?

layoutforjtgordon20.jpg

 

Also, what would be a good inexpensive soldering iron that I could get just for this project alone? Don't want to drop alot of money on it and what other supplies do I need for it? Flux is one thing right?

Just whatever you can get. Most solder has flux layered on, so you will not need any extra. Radioshack sells a very, very nice iron set for like $30, has a holder, sponge, 40w iron that you set to 20w as well.

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Nanofreak79

Here is my finished LED array. Overall Iam happy with the color, although I'm still waiting on my tank from pico for this build....soooo time will tell once it's over water and coral. I'll deffinetlly be using more drivers on my next builds for more control. I plan on doing another for my 5g spec, and my 40B frag tank as well. Here are some horrible ipad pics. At the moment it's my only camera. Colors are dimmed all down to get best pic I could.

Colors-

10-RB

3-V

2-R

2-C

2-CB

3-65K

5-45K

1-10K

8039e713.jpg

d0231926.jpg

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jtgordon20
Maybe something like this?

layoutforjtgordon20.jpg

 

 

Just whatever you can get. Most solder has flux layered on, so you will not need any extra. Radioshack sells a very, very nice iron set for like $30, has a holder, sponge, 40w iron that you set to 20w as well.

 

Wow thanks Ben! If this is what you believe is good then I'll go with it. How much space minimum is needed to connect the stars? Also for the cool blue LEDs from ledgroupbuy, should I go with the 120 or 60 degree built in optics?

 

I'll go check out the soldering iron

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jedimasterben
Wow thanks Ben! If this is what you believe is good then I'll go with it. How much space minimum is needed to connect the stars? Also for the cool blue LEDs from ledgroupbuy, should I go with the 120 or 60 degree built in optics?

 

I'll go check out the soldering iron

They're gonna be in-hood on your BC, right? If so, no optics, so 120 degree.

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jtgordon20
They're gonna be in-hood on your BC, right? If so, no optics, so 120 degree.

 

No hood. It will be more like a pendant. So 60 degrees?

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jedimasterben
No hood. It will be more like a pendant. So 60 degrees?

60 is pretty tight, you'll probably get disco. I'd do 90 unless you're hanging really high - like 20" above the water kinda high.

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jtgordon20
60 is pretty tight, you'll probably get disco. I'd do 90 unless you're hanging really high - like 20" above the water kinda high.

 

Where would I order with 90? Ledgroupbuy gas built in optics with either 60 or 120 since I'm buying the bridgelux LEDs

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jedimasterben
Where would I order with 90? Ledgroupbuy gas built in optics with either 60 or 120 since I'm buying the bridgelux LEDs

Just get them with 120 and order the extra optics from Aquastyle (they are the same size diode so they use the same optics).

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omgomgomg:welcome: I just ordered from Aquastyleonline.com Now I can join this awesome club I've read 48 pages about. yay! Does anybody know a good way to Martyr Joint"s? i'm having troubles figuring out cuts, for right angles...
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Just wondering if anyone has a spare piece of CoolBlue that they can ship to me in SouthEast Asia? Paypal & envelope shipping?

I just need 1 as suggested by JediMaster for my 12g Nanocube. LedGroupBuy ships internationally at ridiculous price of USD40 for a $1.99 single led *gulp*

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