bonese's 40b | revival

[bonese]

Talk about some good information! Thanks guys I really appreciate it. So if I'm understanding my panel of scientists here - I basically should go to a LFS and ask for some sand, I did this for my other tank but was just making sure this would be alright to do. I'm trying to very hard to do this perfect from the start.

 

I added only live rock because of my fear of the pests that the live rock have on them while sitting in a tub. I know it may seem strange but I would rather know exactly whats going in there rather than depend on not knowing the majority of where it has been.

 

This will be a SPS tank so pretty much I'm not too sure as to where I should place the mp's. ones a forty and the other is a ten so maybe that will play into the decision.

 

Have to buy a reliable test kit - Suggestions?

[spanko]

For the initial cycle a lot of folks go with the API kit. I used the INstant Ocean kits and they seemed to serve me well here.

If you are wanting to go with SPS down the road then down the road you will need some good Calcium, Alkalinity and Magnesium kits.For this Salifert seems to be the kits of choice. Pricey but good quality and accurate.

[bonese]

Yeah I figured about all the kits and stuff. API is recommended? I have used salifert kits before they are pretty spot on usually.

 

And just for my understanding, I need to kill something in order for the nitrogen cycle to start, then you wait for the nitrogen levels to read, then you ultimately are waiting for the levels themselves to reach 0. However you do not do water changes during this cycle as it will further push back the cycle? So somehow the water cleans itself?

 

Pumping some sand out of my fuge and putting this new seed sand in there. Also going to smash the rocks up into...bitts.

[bitts]

as many lfs as you can find that aren't scary. for the most part live rock hitchhikers are a good thing, just wait a while before adding any thing so you can catch the bad. as to not knowing what there, its not really the big stuff that bothers me its the other stuff thats there no matter what anyway. like by volume the most prevalent life in salt water are viruses. um wash your hands.

[bitts]

as to mp placement. first, would try to keep the water across the sand bed to around 7-10 cm per sec. this will help with both the boundary layer & minimizing the amount of detritus accumulation. don't worry there will still be plenty for the fauna. next I like the concept of using a gyre. both in how it effects the coral & allows the mp's to be placed further back in the tank. as to mode I've found I like the nutrient transport mode, but reef crest uses the least power. with two mp's, both eco modes will be good but so will long pulse mode. the best part will be your ability to switch the gyre's direction. one thing to keep in mind is that with the gyre method things kind of get stuck in the middle of the tank. you end up with your own personal great pacific gyre. so you'll need to use the return to break this up. if you are looking for wave action & the flow required is to great for the coral aim the 40 at a rock to deaden the flow but the amount being pulled in will still cause the wave. this is how I have my 10 set to full power on my 29.

 

oh also try to keep as much sand beds surface area in the fuge clear as possible. maby create a platform to place the rock & rubble on.

[spanko]

Not to mention surface agitation and surface skimming as important considerations.

[bitts]

your 1260 may not be pressure rated to the full needs to get the 4 to 1 gain that can be achieved with 10 psi. but the addition of an eduction nozzle would do wonders to the returns out put & surface agitation. switching the 40 & 10 would improve skimming at the overflow. raising the vortech's can help pulls some of the surface skim back into the water column. while improving the gas exchange at the surface boundary.

[bonese]

Right now the 40 is right over a rock about 2 inches from the surface on the left side, right beside the overflow. The 10 is on the right hand side more towards the back and about 3 or 4 inches from the sand bed. I'm thinking I may need to move the 10 up more towards the surface to reduce the storm.

 

Surface agitation is what I'd say great using the locline and such however I'm no expert so hopefully we can shed more light on if this is right and hopefully moving the mp10 higher will help increase this.

 

If my water is still cloudy, should I seed the sand or wait on that? And is that normal or is something weird. I feel like its just the salt dissolving but shouldn't that have already happened?

[spanko]

Have you tested you Sg yet? I would add the sand as soon as you can get it. Will aid in the formation of the biofilm.

[bitts]

until the sand develops a small amount of film it may not stay in place with the mp's powered up. vortech's due to the broad flow do very little as to surface agitation (ripples & splashing) but the great amount of flow helps with gas exchange. especially when they are used to create induction zones. the voice in the back of my head still say to think about swapping the vortech's. if had the 40 centered on the right aimed at the rock, you should be able to push some serious flow while having it nicely dissipated.

[bonese]

Just checked the SG, its reading 1.028 - 1.029. I'm an idiot. Is it already too far gone to make this work? I'm going to go get some light diffusion egg crate for building a little stand so the rocks are off of the sand, Bitts why does this help? As with the 40 I had it pointing into the flow of the return to make that "Unknown flow" zone in the middle but will listen to you if you think it'd be better on the right. What do you think about it Henry?

[bitts]

increases the area of exchange between the sand bed & water column. sg is not far off, take out a qt & top off.

 

 

jake adams articels on why flow is more important than lighting

 

PT1PT 2PT 3

PT 4PT5

[spanko]

Hee Hee, nothing is too far gone in a new tank. Just add some RO\DI to bring the Sg back down to 1.025. No worries with no critters. Going back to find your pictures to see where the Vortex are.

[bonese]

You guys are the ####. I've topped off and in hopes will all smooth out by the weekend the SG will be spot on 1.025 - .026.

 

I agree with you bits on the flow aspect and it is one of my favorite parts (nerd alert) creating the flow patterns. I noticed on the right side of my tank the mp40 will undoubtedly be about 2 inches from the rock. Would that play a part in figuring out the best spot for it? I don't want TOO much flow...was the 40 a bad choice?

 

In other news, Barreled some un-oaked chard today. Getting some labels on the Rose tomorrow hopefully. This is a busy time apparently.

[bitts]

40 is a great choice just don't turn it up as high. only down side I can see is size. the rock will be a large consideration in the placement. still think it should be on the right but may need to be slightly to the back. really the 40/10 combo is great all you need out of the 10 is the help give the water a small push as it swings back to the 40. think of it as a kid on the swing the 40 is gravity making it go while the 10 is dad using two fingers to keep the swing going against friction.

[bitts]

I finally got around to finish it off basically and managed to take some pictures. Ask if you want any particular pictures. Before this thread officially is horrible I give you pictures:

 

All Bulb:

 

Actinic:

 

Daytime:

 

Pipes:

 

Sump:

 

Left Side with mp40W and overflow:

 

Right side with mp10W and return:

 

Right side close:

 

Top Down:

 

Front close:

 

 

I can't wait to get this really going now. Let me know what you think.

 

also may add. mad props for avoiding the standard pile of rock tower @#$! fest that normally comes from misadventures in bonsai scaping.

[bonese]

Haha thanks man I really appreciate it especially coming from the mentors mouth. This is basically our marine box of love. I'm going to switch around the vortech's later tonight and I liked your kid on a swing thing it was smooth.

 

I noticed the salt leaves this silvery dust like powder coat on everything. Although it just rubs off will it all just rub off with time?

 

Im building a little stand out of egg crate hopefully tonight as well to place the rock rubble on. Would a clamp on work light suffice for a light or what's some of my other options?

[bitts]

as to the fuge light. I use to run mine off a cheap sprial bulb. basicly anything will work, just stick to the k rating henry said earlier. then its just a ? of power. higher par will give better growth.

[bonese]

http://www.lowes.com:80/pd_18429-1638-1199...;storeId=10151#

 

What cuts this stuff? A razor blade and then use some super glue gel to mend it together?

[bitts]

carpet knife, hacksaw, what ever really. then any number of ways to hold it together, glue, zip ties, so on.

[bonese]

Added the sand just about 2 hours ago and it clouded everything over again - I got 3 pounds to start out with and well see how it goes.

 

I used my dremel and it worked perfect, I forgot I even had it until I was about to use a hacksaw. The platform does its job and is holding my rubble, When I added the rubble I didn't know how much was good - is less better? Especially when having the mangroves and chateo in there with them further along the road.

[bitts]

ah, in all things there is a balance. one should stare at fish on this.

[bitts]

how did swapping the vortechs go. did end in an improvement or where we smoking the wacky tobacy.

[captainbastard]

Dremel sounds over kill for that stuff, i just used mini-dykes

[bonese]

Wacky Tobacy was smoked but created an idea of the moving of the vortechs. It was successful and it is giving me a much more random flow. I think I had more of a whirlpool motion before now its completely all over the place.

 

Water is still cloudy probably from adding 3 pounds of live sand and moving the vortech's.

 

Dykes, as in...or something else. haha.