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Pickle010

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baileybum1234
I wouldn't be surprised if some are already there. I know some have made their way overseas. But I'm not the one shipping them.

 

Really? I would feel sorry for them having to go through all that, I have flown from LA and that was long enough, let alone been in a bag.

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I'm just stumbling in here for the first time and will try to catch up on some reading! I do have a question though.... Do misbarred Black O's only rear misbarred fry? I was reading somewhere this is the case. Well from my misbar's I have a bunch that are turning out with perfect, I should say almost perfect bars. I will have to share some pics.

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I believe they have found that most misbars occur due to water quality, not genetics. So, it's not unusual that your misbar pair would have fry with their bars intact if you have high water quality.

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+1 misbars are not a genetic trait - it is environmental - So the answer is No. Misbars should not produce misbars.

 

Dirty water produces misbars but can also lead to a whole host of other issues as well.

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+1 misbars are not a genetic trait - it is environmental - So the answer is No. Misbars should not produce misbars.

 

Dirty water produces misbars but can also lead to a whole host of other issues as well.

 

 

+1. I'm also thinking the gray tails as well?

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Agreed - I use prime - and yes.. it does take time for the reading to go down.

 

You have to also judge by what you know is true...

 

For example - time between water changes, what and how often you are feeding, amount of build up in the tank, the appearance and activity of the fry.

 

If you are doing water changes and not over feeding and the fry seem to be doing ok... then I wouldn't worry too much. Abviously you don't want the ammonia to spike but if you stay in a routine it should stay minimal.

 

Now with smaller hatches this much easier to contend with then the large hatches which obviously eat much more and produce more waste. That's why typically by week 3 I'm moving my fry to a larger grow out with more water volume and better filtration to offset the size of the clutch.

 

Another thing - after meta you can and should start using a sponge filter of some sort. You should season the sponge in the parent tank and it will help a lot as well.

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I use parent tank water for the first week or so then drip in new saltwater over the next week. I keep the green water to a minimum and just add rots as needed. Works for me. Using too much green water really spikes up that ammonia

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Hey thanks! I have bred false percs and right now having success with my black occellaris clowns. My original orange pair shut down for about 10 months I guess. I'm up to about 80 black O babies right now. I have a build thread I just started here with a new system for my mated pair of bangaii's. I will definatly post some pics up later when I get home. Also my orange pair have started to lay again and I'm happy about that. Had some really bright colored offspring from these 2.

Edited by slumpysix
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Awesome! For sure I'd like to see some pics. I have a #####en pair of B&W's that keep eating their eggs. By day 3 80% of the clutch is gone. I have another spawning pair coming in the next couple of weeks. I love B&W's but hadn't had much luck with them yet.

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baileybum1234

Amonia still hasent gon down and the water starting to foam a little. I think I need to learn to reduce green water adition, also the rottifers have gone mad in the fry tank. I have removed about 2 litres of rottifers and will do another water change about 2 litres. I need to get hold of some prime I think.

 

So how will I know if all the fishies have gone through metta?

 

I added a few newly hatched brine from shelless eggs this evening. I would prefer other options since I can see a few unhatched brine eggs going into the tank. I know if they were shelled brine it could choke them, I just dont know about these.

 

I read your posts from before and have a sponge filter ready seeding in the perent tank.

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Have you considered doing a larger volume of water change? Without prime or something else to neutralize the ammonia the best you can do is lower the levels by replacing the water.

 

 

With 40 fry or so there is no way they could compete with the multiplication rate of the rots... keep watching it and removing as needed. I think the larger water changes will help on both counts - ammonia and rotifer population control. Make sure you keep the air flow up as the higher numbers of rotifers will compete for oxygen.

 

 

 

 

So how will I know if all the fishies have gone through metta?

 

The head stripe is a pretty clear indicator of meta... I would say once they all have their head stripes - some of them may start showing center stripes at this point.

Edited by Pickle010
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baileybum1234

I will get some Prime this weekend I think I have found a local supplier. What kind of amount do you guys add? Just trying to decide on the size of bottle to go for?

 

I am noticing a difference in tail movement I have read thats a start of the signs of meta.

 

Also I read that water changes around there meta days is not such a good idea, have you experienced negative results here? I guess clean water is a better option.

 

Cheers

 

Jarrett

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Ok here's a couple pics

The Black Occellaris clowns. There is one big guy and the rest are from a couple different batches

 

Blkofry1.jpg

 

The mom and dad - really bad angle sorry....

 

mompop.jpg

 

 

My original breeders, I have had them since 2006,

 

peek.jpg

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Nice! My onyx female I've had since '07, so not as long as you guys! She and her ocellaris mate just laid their first decent sized clutch in a long time yesterday.

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