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Cultivated Reef

Hypes 39 gallon LED Powered Cadlight


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Thanks alot Bro. I swear its one of the best investments ive made as far as reef keeping is concerned. It just amazes me all the things you can control with it.

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I finally got the tunze cables to hook up to my profilux controller. Im running (2) Tunze 6055's on short wave pulse. The profilux has a bunch of different modes you can run. For now im sticking with the waves since it looks cool when theyre in synch. Whats really cool is when a "thunderstorm" occurs the waves kick up to 100% and the wave action is pretty dramatic. Heres a quick

of the wave action(Be sure to hit the HD button)
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Yeah man, those shots are really nice. Thinking about getting a Rebel XS kit myself, that or the Nikon D3000. Do you have to use a special lens to get those macro shots?

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So i got the new impellers for my euroreef skimmer. This is the upgraded "diamond mesh" material. It should be alot less prone to wear. Here some pics of the old impeller and how worn down it is in a relatively short amount of time. Just installed the new one and ill check in month or so to see how it compares to the old one...

 

Old impeller

oldimpeller_2.jpg

Oldimpeller.jpg

 

New impeller

newimpeller.jpg

newimpeller_2.jpg

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I think Robbert told me the problem with the old impeller was it's resistance (or lack thereof) to the saltwater environment. This new one is supposed to be inert. Looking forward to your pics of it in a month.

 

How are you liking the skimmer? I found mine overflowing this morning and can't figure out why. I did dose two part for the first time last night before bed, so I hope the skimmer is not over-reactive to those chemicals. Also, mine stops foam production with feeding. Do you experience either of these conditions, E?

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Hey b..I love the skimmer i havent had one as efficient as the euro-reef. Mine actually produces skimmate while im feeding the tank...I never seen anything like it. Maybe your water level within the reactor chamber isnt adjusted properly. Take a pic of yours and ill tell you what might be the problem.

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My water level is right at the fuge chamber divider, but here's a pic anyway:

 

IMG_0840.jpg

 

I had some nice foam head going today, but like I said, after feeding (thawed mysis) it just goes down to small popping bubbles at the water line inside the skimmer. I don't have as much experience with tuning it as you do because I've had so much epoxy in the tank messing with it, so I haven't really had it in stable water yet. But no new epoxy has been in the tank for several days, now.

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Hey B Do you have the gray cover on at the bottom and have you cleaned the foam piece lately. If so remove the gray cover at the bottom and run some hot water through the foam piece to clean it. Leave the gray cover off.

 

 

My water level is right at the fuge chamber divider, but here's a pic anyway:

 

IMG_0840.jpg

 

I had some nice foam head going today, but like I said, after feeding (thawed mysis) it just goes down to small popping bubbles at the water line inside the skimmer. I don't have as much experience with tuning it as you do because I've had so much epoxy in the tank messing with it, so I haven't really had it in stable water yet. But no new epoxy has been in the tank for several days, now.

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I'm actually giving the whole skimmer a good cleaning to remove any possible residue from the epoxy.

 

I'm going to try the other way; I'm going to leave out the foam pad, and seal off two of the smaller holes. That will leave me the two big holes left to tune with (which I can close off completely, which would never be needed, of course). My reasoning is that over time the foam pad will get dirty/clogged with food particles and detritus that the pump takes in but shoots down into the pad instead of up into the foam. Besides possibly releasing nitrate, I think it would be cause to need to adjust the height of the skimmer occasionally until you cleaned the pad again (because the dirty pad would change the flow of effluent).

 

By going with only hard parts, I am hoping that there will be no variability with the skimmer height over time. Of course, it will still need to be cleaned occasionally.

 

I am also trying to keep the skimmer as high as possible, to keep the pump as close to the surface (while still being submerged) as possible. This means more air draw :) Even when the skimmer is all the way up the top of the pump is about 2" under water.

 

Wish me luck with my experiment! If it fails, I can always take off the gray effluent "valve" on the bottom and try the foam only.

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I agree with you about the pad becoming dirty and restricting the flow of effluent but it also catches microbubbles.So you might want to see if you see any microbubbles make it into the display with that adjustment.

 

I'm actually giving the whole skimmer a good cleaning to remove any possible residue from the epoxy.

 

I'm going to try the other way; I'm going to leave out the foam pad, and seal off two of the smaller holes. That will leave me the two big holes left to tune with (which I can close off completely, which would never be needed, of course). My reasoning is that over time the foam pad will get dirty/clogged with food particles and detritus that the pump takes in but shoots down into the pad instead of up into the foam. Besides possibly releasing nitrate, I think it would be cause to need to adjust the height of the skimmer occasionally until you cleaned the pad again (because the dirty pad would change the flow of effluent).

 

By going with only hard parts, I am hoping that there will be no variability with the skimmer height over time. Of course, it will still need to be cleaned occasionally.

 

I am also trying to keep the skimmer as high as possible, to keep the pump as close to the surface (while still being submerged) as possible. This means more air draw :) Even when the skimmer is all the way up the top of the pump is about 2" under water.

 

Wish me luck with my experiment! If it fails, I can always take off the gray effluent "valve" on the bottom and try the foam only.

 

 

Sweet eel. I want one, but am worried about it knocking rocks over. Is that gonna happen?

 

 

Thanks and nope.

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Picked up a jbj nano glo for one of the rear chambers of my cad. I already have a few mangroves back there which have been growing with only ambient light :huh: I plan to put some cheato to speed up the nitrate removal process and remove it once levels reach 0.

 

Nano-Glo.jpg

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Picked up a jbj nano glo for one of the rear chambers of my cad. I already have a few mangroves back there which have been growing with only ambient light :huh: I plan to put some cheato to speed up the nitrate removal process and remove it once levels reach 0.

 

this may be a noob question, but why remove the chaeto? is it because you don't need it/it will starve if you're running the zeo?

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this may be a noob question, but why remove the chaeto? is it because you don't need it/it will starve if you're running the zeo?

 

 

Thats exactly why tim.

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That is a pretty darn good looking setup mate. How often do you feed that eel? And how do you like the Zeo system? I go back and forth on it but still considering it... It just seems like so much darn work! :) Ideally I would just setup a dosing pump for each additive... Does the "drops" correspond to ml?

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Thanks alot Urchin :) I feed the eel every 2-3 days. I just fed him today actually. Beleive it or not he ate a 4" lance fish :mellow: (frozen if course) He downed in about 8 seconds. :o :o

 

The Zeosystem is actually pretty good if you have the patience for it. I totally swear by the Carbon and zeolites They reduce organics immediately upon being introduced. The nitrates and the phosphates are a bit slow about going down to desired levels.However i think it also depends on what your nitrate and phosphate levels are prior to dosing.

For instance Becact started a newly cycled tank with the zeo system and his results were almost instantaneous. Since the nescessary bacteria were already being introduced before the actual start of the nitrogen cycle. Now on the other hand i introduced the zeosystem well into an already established system. But the difference was i broke down my fuge a few weeks prior in preparation for the zeo system and my nitrates soared to ungodly levels. (because i have such a high bioload) Fortunately i hadnt added any corals and was running as a fish only setup for the time. My fish as well invertebrates werent affected at all.

Now was the task of removing the buildup of all these nitrates. I say it cut my nitrates in half after about 4 weeks. Then it just stabilized so my nitrates although lower arent at 0. So in my impatience i decided to add cheato to help aid the zeo. Although i do believe in an additional 6-8 weeks my levels would have eventually fallen to 0. So i feel comfortable saying it will reduce nitrate and phosphate levels quickly but only if they are at reasonable levels. If they are out of control it will take quite a bit longer.

The other good things i love about Zeo is the lack of nuisance algae. I have yet to even have hair algae!If you can believe that. And my sandbed has never been whiter.(Although i have to give BJ the jawfish some credit for that)

 

 

That is a pretty darn good looking setup mate. How often do you feed that eel? And how do you like the Zeo system? I go back and forth on it but still considering it... It just seems like so much darn work! :) Ideally I would just setup a dosing pump for each additive... Does the "drops" correspond to ml?
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