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[Cadlights 34G] No turning back now!


Rodney013

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Yes, there is some noise but nothing a bag of purigen or filter floss won't take care of. The sound of the water is nothing compared to the skimmer and cooling fan noise.

 

 

So your using filter media to slow down the noise but it drips into the chambers right? I have a 5 inch drop and I'm considering increasing the height of the baffles. Thanks.

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I think if you just add more water to the tank the level in the back will go up. On my tank the the back area is only about an inch lower than the front display, this makes no noise at all. but I'm not sure how your tank back area looks.

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So your using filter media to slow down the noise but it drips into the chambers right? I have a 5 inch drop and I'm considering increasing the height of the baffles. Thanks.

It does not drip it is a constant flow. You need this to happen to skim the surface of your water. If you raise your water level too high you will develop a film on top of your water.

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I think if you just add more water to the tank the level in the back will go up. On my tank the the back area is only about an inch lower than the front display, this makes no noise at all. but I'm not sure how your tank back area looks.

 

 

U drive a volkswagon?

 

I am having trouble visualizing this. I got my tank in but I dint' put water in yet. I"m having an issue as CADLIGHT made some error to my tank. They want me to use their SKIMMER which doesn't fit !! So if I am able to raise the water in the back, I can go w/ a tunze.

 

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Rodney,

 

So regardless of the baffle, chambers in back, I can increase my water height? Makes sense kind of right? I know there is mismatch w/ the display water level and chamber so that it can surface skim.

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U drive a volkswagon?

 

I am having trouble visualizing this. I got my tank in but I dint' put water in yet. I"m having an issue as CADLIGHT made some error to my tank. They want me to use their SKIMMER which doesn't fit !! So if I am able to raise the water in the back, I can go w/ a tunze.

 

--

Rodney,

 

So regardless of the baffle, chambers in back, I can increase my water height? Makes sense kind of right? I know there is mismatch w/ the display water level and chamber so that it can surface skim.

I guess I really do not understand your question?

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Hi,

 

The display's water line is judged by the intake overflow right? As it reaches that height in the front of the tank it spills into the back.. Now my question is, can I control the height in the back of the tank? I have baffles situated about 5 inches from bottom up. Oddly my mind kept thinking it's a sump and won't go pass that height.

 

But I could poor water in the back chambers to increase right? I'm not making it leveled w/ the front, but I don't want a big waterfall if u know what I mean. Since you said yours a 3 inch, mines a 5+ inch drop. I wanna close that drop.

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Hi,

 

The display's water line is judged by the intake overflow right? As it reaches that height in the front of the tank it spills into the back.. Now my question is, can I control the height in the back of the tank? I have baffles situated about 5 inches from bottom up. Oddly my mind kept thinking it's a sump and won't go pass that height.

 

But I could poor water in the back chambers to increase right? I'm not making it leveled w/ the front, but I don't want a big waterfall if u know what I mean. Since you said yours a 3 inch, mines a 5+ inch drop. I wanna close that drop.

Yes, you can add water to the back chamber and decrease the length of your waterfall. Just keep an eye on the surface of your display water and make sure it does not develop a milky film.

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Thanks Rodney. Got my tank and 'stressed' over it due to a flaw.

 

Now what skimmer are you running? If I increase height it might drown the Cadlight, so I might go w/ the Tunze.

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Thanks Rodney. Got my tank and 'stressed' over it due to a flaw.

 

Now what skimmer are you running? If I increase height it might drown the Cadlight, so I might go w/ the Tunze.

I started with the stock CAD skimmer and it worked okay. It was a little loud and difficult to clean and control. I purchased the Tunze a couple of months ago and love it. It is almost silent...smaller and much more simple to operate.

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I started with the stock CAD skimmer and it worked okay. It was a little loud and difficult to clean and control. I purchased the Tunze a couple of months ago and love it. It is almost silent...smaller and much more simple to operate.

 

 

I will proally go the same route.

 

I hope you can get pics tonight. Is it true the TUNZE is magneted mounted? Does your colelction cup sit above the tank ?

 

Thanks.

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I will proally go the same route.

 

I hope you can get pics tonight. Is it true the TUNZE is magneted mounted? Does your colelction cup sit above the tank ?

 

Thanks.

I will not be able to get pics tonight as my tank is at work and I am not going in until tomorrow or maybe Sunday.

 

Yes, the Tunze is mounted using magnets and the cups sits about even with the lights.

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I've had it a few weeks now. it's really hit and miss with them though just like any livestock. .

 

So if your sea hare is not eating the hair algae what is it chowing down on?

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I have some Tubs in my tank that have been slowly shrinking over time. :(

Phixion...that is not what I wanted to hear.

 

I do not know why some zoas grow great and others just seem to slowly melt?

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Going to start mixing my own SW...going to use Tropic Marin PRO. Will keep an eye on any difference in my tank and post what I see.

 

Anyone else using this salt and have an opinion?

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Mixed my first batch of new SW this morning and tested before I did a 5 gallon water change.

 

Temperature - 79F

Salinity - 1.025

pH (Salifert) - 8.3

Ammonia - 0ppm

Nitrite - 0ppm

Nitrate - 0ppm

Strontium - 3ppm

Calcium - 480ppm

Magnesium - 1350ppm

Alkalinity - 9.0Dkh

 

These are better numbers than I have ever had with the SW from my LFS but for the cost of the salt they should be I suppose. Call me crazy but within an hour of doing my water change everything in my tank seems to be opening up more than I have seen in a long time. Maybe it is just wishful thinking but I hope not.

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Phixion...that is not what I wanted to hear.

 

I do not know why some zoas grow great and others just seem to slowly melt?

 

M<e either. Well they were on the sand, so maybe if I move them higher up they might start opening up again...

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I had to go ahead and do my second water change today with my new Tropic Marin Pro salt since I am going to be out of pocket for the next few days. This water change is a couple of days ahead of when I would normally do such, but would rather be early on this task than late. In just a few short days I am seeing a big difference in the way my corals are looking. Some changes are not as noticeable but some are very significant. All of my zoas, acans and duncans seem to be coloring up more and extending like never before.

 

I now know for certain the parameters of the new salt are much better than the water from my LFS, therefore my tank is much happier. I was guilty of never checking the SW from my LFS until I started having problems with my tank. Unfortunately, I started dosing and using buffers to correct the problem before I realized what was going on as I found the parameters of the SW from my LFS to be all over the place. Between the bad SW, buffers and dosing I believe this is reason for my tank having a mini crash. I don't blame my LFS for this problem however; it is something I should have been doing from the start. I don't want to become a water chemist or a dosing expert and hope the use of the new salt will solve a big part of the problems I have been having.

 

With my limited knowledge of water chemistry it seems to me that in a 34G tank that is not overly stocked, that 15-20% percent weekly water changes should be enough to prevent having to dose and use buffers for the most part.

 

I am sure there are other salts out there that are just a good as Tropic Marin Pro, but I picked it after doing a lot of reading on the forums. Seems most people that use it are pleased with the results and it seems to be very constant from batch to batch and for the cost it should be.

 

The reason for this post is not to flame my LFS or to promote a particular product but to simply give those that are new to this like myself a little insight to what I have been through and learned first hand.

 

Hope this is useful information and thanks for tagging along.

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With my limited knowledge of water chemistry it seems to me that in a 34G tank that is not overly stocked, that 15-20% percent weekly water changes should be enough to prevent having to dose and use buffers for the most part.

 

Those certainly seem to be good parameters for your change water. It took me a couple of months to figure out that I needed to do some testing on my change water, particularly Ca, pH, Mg and dhk. I am using Seachem and now I know that my change water needs a dose of Mg before adding to my tank.

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Those certainly seem to be good parameters for your change water. It took me a couple of months to figure out that I needed to do some testing on my change water, particularly Ca, pH, Mg and dhk. I am using Seachem and now I know that my change water needs a dose of Mg before adding to my tank.

Hey Oscar, things seem to be looking better in my tank with each passing day. I never thougt I would be testing for Mag, Stronium and Iodine, but as my addiction to this hobby deepens so does my desire to fine tune everything. My LFS uses Seachem salt as well and I found it very high in Ca and very low in Mg. With such a small tank I don't mind spending the extra money on the Tropic Marin Pro salt. If I had a much larger tank I would not be able to afford it, but with doing a 5 gallon water change a week it is not too bad.

 

Thanks for the post and happy reefing.

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