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Coral Vue Hydros

Fragsreef.. floating 40 breeder SPS tank


frags

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Hi guys I have not posted much on the forum but I have been reading it for a long time. I have decided to start my build and would like everyone's input and advice.

 

 

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I am putting the Tank in the basement in my office that I am building. Do you guys think I should build the whole fish room in my office including...display tank, slop sink, tanks, sump, ato, rodi, refuge etc. This would all be visable from my desk it would be in the corner of this photo to the left, I will also be taken out the oil tank.

 

 

 

 

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Or I can just put the display on that wall and put everything else in the unfinished part of the basement on the other side. This pic shows where I can put all the behind the scenes to the tank (desk would be removed).

 

 

 

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  • Like 3
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icedearth15324

Especially in your situation where you have an unfinished basement and have the ability to route things, I would hide all the maintenance tanks behind the wall. Are you planning on finishing the basement completely?

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I would put all the maintaince stuff in the other room as well but i would make 3 sides of the display visible i dont like tanks inside the wall where u can only look at it face on. It takes away alot of anlges of viewing the animals ding strange things.

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I'm going to go with just the display in the office! Vash028 that was my plan Im going to do a pennisula style tank. Here is the list of what I have ordered allready....

 

 

A1111 MARINE DEPOT CATALOG 1 $0.00
SC4119 SEACHEM LABORATORIES REEF STATUS: MAGNESIUM, CARBONATE, BORATE, ALKALINITY TEST KIT 1
CV5113 REEF OCTOPUS 6 (150 GALLON) IN SUMP PINWHEEL PROTEIN SKIMMER W/ BUBBLE PLATE 1
EM1251 ECOTECH MARINE MP10 VORTECH PROPELLER PUMP W/ ECOSMART DRIVER 1
EH11036 EHEIM COMPACT+ 2000 PUMP 1
MD2101 MARINE DEPOT AQUARIUM REFRACTOMETER 1
DA11311 MARINEDEPOT.COM EXCLUSIVE REEFKEEPER LITE + SL1 EXPANSION UNIT W/ FREE PH PROBE 1
SP12291 SPECTRAPURE® MAXCAP RO/DI SYSTEM W/ MANUAL FLUSH - 90 GPD


There is going to be a 4 0Breeder and a 40 breeder sump. I am also going to have a 20 long quarantine tank that will allways be up and running. The tank is going to be an SPS tank.

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hypersnyper694788

I would put all the maintaince stuff in the other room as well but i would make 3 sides of the display visible i dont like tanks inside the wall where u can only look at it face on. It takes away alot of anlges of viewing the animals ding strange things.

 

what he said ^^

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Yes, The overflow will dump into the sump the tanks will be back to back! I am going to get enough weight on the sump side to hold up the tank so there will be no legs on the display tank.

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icedearth15324

Yes, The overflow will dump into the sump the tanks will be back to back! I am going to get enough weight on the sump side to hold up the tank so there will be no legs on the display tank.

 

Do you mean that the tank will essentially be floating in the air? And the only thing supporting the display tank will be the counter-balance by the sump?

 

That doesn't sound too safe to me personally.

  • Like 4
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Yes that is the plan. It will have the weight of the sump, quarantine tank, Ato also a reservoir for the RO water. Do you think it would not hold the display tank? I will build the platform that holds the display out of 2x6 that will extend through the wall to the other side that has the other equipment.

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icedearth15324

Yes that is the plan. It will have the weight of the sump, quarantine tank, Ato also a reservoir for the RO water. Do you think it would not hold the display tank? I will build the platform that holds the display out of 2x6 that will extend through the wall to the other side that has the other equipment.

 

You have to remember that a full 40 gallon tank will weigh well over 300 lbs, and with live rock over 400. I feel the 2x6s will support the weight, but getting everything balanced is going to be difficult.

 

If anything, build supports on the maintenance side that will keep the boards locked down fully. You don't want the boards to move at all.

  • Like 1
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Honestly, I'm not a fan of the "hanging in space". I think it'll look really weird when you get it all done. I'd either build it into the wall, or build a nice cabinet under it.

 

Also, as someone who currently runs a horizontal sump setup, let me give you a couple of things to think about. First off, the maximum level of your sump will be a little lower than the bottom of the hole you drill for the overflow. You'll also have to drill a hole in the other tank at that level to get the water into the tank. If you move the tank at all with a setup like this, it is very easy to bind the glass of one of the two tanks and break it. Ask me how I know!

 

I'd highly recommend putting the sump lower than the display tank. It solves a LOT of problems, as most equipment in the hobby assumes the sump is significantly lower than the display. It also allows you to use the full depth of the tank, instead of around 1/2 the height by the time everything is done. Even if you don't run it full, it's nice for it to have extra volume so when you toss a few bags in the display to acclimate, you don't flood something! I went to great lengths when I built my custom sump to add a chamber to prevent flooding like that and it's saved me on numerous occasions, because I do run the sump about 1/4" from the top because it's so damn short.

 

Also, one more thing. If you do the floaty thingy. You have to build it so it can be free standing with either tank full and the other empty. Otherwise at some point you will do something like drain the sump to clean it or something and the next thing you know is the display has crashed to the ground because you lost your assumed counterweight.

  • Like 1
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Honestly, I'm not a fan of the "hanging in space". I think it'll look really weird when you get it all done. I'd either build it into the wall, or build a nice cabinet under it.Also, as someone who currently runs a horizontal sump setup, let me give you a couple of things to think about. First off, the maximum level of your sump will be a little lower than the bottom of the hole you drill for the overflow. You'll also have to drill a hole in the other tank at that level to get the water into the tank. If you move the tank at all with a setup like this, it is very easy to bind the glass of one of the two tanks and break it. Ask me how I know!I'd highly recommend putting the sump lower than the display tank. It solves a LOT of problems, as most equipment in the hobby assumes the sump is significantly lower than the display. It also allows you to use the full depth of the tank, instead of around 1/2 the height by the time everything is done. Even if you don't run it full, it's nice for it to have extra volume so when you toss a few bags in the display to acclimate, you don't flood something! I went to great lengths when I built my custom sump to add a chamber to prevent flooding like that and it's saved me on numerous occasions, because I do run the sump about 1/4" from the top because it's so damn short. Also, one more thing. If you do the floaty thingy. You have to build it so it can be free standing with either tank full and the other empty. Otherwise at some point you will do something like drain the sump to clean it or something and the next thing you know is the display has crashed to the ground because you lost your assumed counterweight.

 

I do understand what you're talking about with the sump being connected . the only reason I am doing this is for a counterweight for the main display. If I dId put It lower then I would have to have enough counterweight above with the quarantine tank and the reserve from the RO. I think the suspended tank would look pretty cool instead of the same old tank with the cabinet underneath. I also don't like tank in a wall because you can only see 1 view.

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I have installed, set-up, broke down, moved, and planned many aquariums in my day. That "counterbalance" talk scares the shit out of me. If that 40 has tension or torsion applied to it's bottom pane, which from what I can tell it will, then there is a pretty good chance it's going to split corner to corner on either the sides or the bottom pane. I have seen it happen from someone barely lifting a filled 55 gallon one eighth of an inch to pull plastic out from under it. He didn't even move it a 1/16 inch before it basically split the glass open.



Oh and yeah, you'd better have a pretty damn reliable ATO because as it evaps, the sump is going to lose weight.

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It's not only goIng to be counterbalanced by weIght the section that is under the main display will be a cantilever from the other side and it will stick out 3 feet the other side will be 5 feet. I do understand what you're explaining by the torsion of the tank if the sides move independently of each other. this is something I've been thinking about

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I'm just saying i would put an extra set of legs up against the backside of the wall, for one last set of supports to cut back on that fulcrum action. It would be boxed steel if it were my setup.

 

But I am a trim carpenter not a framer (btw I am obligated to hate you for that lol )

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys it has been a little while but I have some update pics for the BUILD! I got some time to work on the project today!



More photos!



The Best PIC NO LEGS on Display side!

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  • Like 1
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I would build a support straight down on the other side, and use cinderblocks and bricks to counterweight it, then screw your frame into those, that way you have more weight then just the 40 breeder for counter balance basically like a diving board

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I would build a support straight down on the other side, and use cinderblocks and bricks to counterweight it, then screw your frame into those, that way you have more weight then just the 40 breeder for counter balance basically like a diving board
The oTher side does noT need any supporT. That side could not go up it is framed under the floor joist.

 

I'm just saying i would put an extra set of legs up against the backside of the wall, for one last set of supports to cut back on that fulcrum action. It would be boxed steel if it were my setup. But I am a trim carpenter not a framer (btw I am obligated to hate you for that lol )
So what do u think now are you convinced it will work!
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