Kinda's Large Tank Adventure (LTA)

[seabass]

If you want a sump, you'd need an overflow.  However, there are less obtrusive overflows, and you really only need one.

 

While the second overflow offers some redundancy should one drain become obstructed, I believe that the second overflow box is more to provide a second return (maybe for tanks without powerheads in the display).  However, more flow through the returns, means more flow through the sump (and I doubt that you'll need more flow through the sump - you want the flow in the display).

 

The overflows that are in the link are drilled through the bottom of the tank so that you can place the stand directly against the wall.  Other than that, people usually opt for a smaller overflow which is drilled in the back, or on one side of the tank - with the drain pipe(s) outside of the tank.  These external overflows hardly take up any space inside of the tank (as all of the plumbing is outside the display).

 

Many of the larger glass tanks have tempered bottoms (which cannot be drilled).  Always make sure that the pane of glass, which you are planning to drill, isn't tempered.  Sometimes they are labelled, and sometimes the detailed specs disclose this information.  If you are not sure, there is a trick that you can check for yourself.  Generally, only the bottom is tempered, but it's not impossible to construct an aquarium using just tempered glass.

 

Keep in mind that these glass tanks are quite heavy.  You'll need help moving it in your house and onto its stand.  Plus with the weight of the rocks, sand, and water, a 100 gallon tank will weigh over one thousand pounds.  Some people get concerned about their floors being able to support the weight.  I've heard that you should usually be fine as long as the floor joists run perpendicular to the length of the tank.

 

[Kindanewtothis]

6 hours ago, seabass said:

If you want a sump, you'd need an overflow.  However, there are less obtrusive overflows, and you really only need one.

 

While the second overflow offers some redundancy should one drain become obstructed, I believe that the second overflow box is more to provide a second return (maybe for tanks without powerheads in the display).  However, more flow through the returns, means more flow through the sump (and I doubt that you'll need more flow through the sump - you want the flow in the display).

 

The overflows that are in the link are drilled through the bottom of the tank so that you can place the stand directly against the wall.  Other than that, people usually opt for a smaller overflow which is drilled in the back, or on one side of the tank - with the drain pipe(s) outside of the tank.  These external overflows hardly take up any space inside of the tank (as all of the plumbing is outside the display).

 

Many of the larger glass tanks have tempered bottoms (which cannot be drilled).  Always make sure that the pane of glass, which you are planning to drill, isn't tempered.  Sometimes they are labelled, and sometimes the detailed specs disclose this information.  If you are not sure, there is a trick that you can check for yourself.  Generally, only the bottom is tempered, but it's not impossible to construct an aquarium using just tempered glass.

 

Keep in mind that these glass tanks are quite heavy.  You'll need help moving it in your house and onto its stand.  Plus with the weight of the rocks, sand, and water, a 100 gallon tank will weigh over one thousand pounds.  Some people get concerned about their floors being able to support the weight.  I've heard that you should usually be fine as long as the floor joists run perpendicular to the length of the tank.

 

Ok thanks for all this. Since I'm not planning on having a sump, I understand that I don't need an overflow. I was wondering if it have another reason to be without a sump ( without drilling).

 

Regarding the weight, it's going to be a bummer because it's going in the basement but at least that means no worry for the weight with water and rocks

[Kindanewtothis]

Back home after being away for 10 days.

 

Major diatoms bloom again (it always comes back, I need to test my Ro/Di water for silicate) The UV will clear it in 24 hours, the tank would look better if I never took it out. Except for the look, any down side to running a UV 24/7? It's gonna kill the phyto, but what else.

 

While I was away a friend came to feed, top off and 2 parts dosing.

[seabass]

14 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

any down side to running a UV 24/7?

The cost to replace the bulb is a big one; and, it'll kill the plankton in the water column.  But all in all, while most people don't need to run UV, there isn't that much downside in doing so.

 

The Green Killing Machine is a lower end unit that people usually purchase to deal with one-off problems (like dinos, a bacterial, or phyto bloom).  I'm not sure how it will hold up to long-term use.

[Kindanewtothis]

1 hour ago, seabass said:

The cost to replace the bulb is a big one

https://a.co/d/3mNpzGS

 

Yup, I suppose it depends on how often I would need to change it.

 

If there is sillicate in my Ro/Di water what's the plan?

[seabass]

1 hour ago, Kindanewtothis said:

I suppose it depends on how often I would need to change it.

Probably every year.

 

1 hour ago, Kindanewtothis said:

If there is sillicate in my Ro/Di water what's the plan?

You could let it be, or you could use a SilicaBuster DI cartridge: https://www.reefsupplies.ca/products/spectrapure-silicabuster-di-cartridge-standard-10?_pos=1&_sid=b2cc4848b&_ss=r

 

3 hours ago, seabass said:

it'll kill the plankton in the water column

Keep in mind that less plankton will probably mean less pods (even though UV won't likely kill the pods directly).

[Kindanewtothis]

Can cyano become so hard that you can't get it off rocks by blowing on it or even by using a frag tool? Or is it something else?

 

Not the coraline but the darker red

[seabass]

Coralline algae can come in several different colors (including darker red).  I don't see anything in the pics that would make me say that it isn't coralline.

[Kindanewtothis]

Water change today, about 10 gallons.

 

Went to the fish store and it's now between a standard 120 gallons (48x24x24) or the 120 gallons extra high (60x18x25). Both seapora.

[seabass]

3 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

it's now between a standard 120 gallons (48x24x24) or the 120 gallons extra high (60x18x25)

I like the aquascaping options of a 4' x 2' tank.  However, the idea of a 6' tank is quite appealing too.  It might come down to what fits your room better.

 

My 100 gallon tank's dimensions are 48" x 24" x 20".  My shirt sleeve often gets wet when reaching down to the bottom of the tank.  I imagine that this might happen more with an even taller tank.  Just something to think about.  That said, the taller tank will probably look even more impressive.

[Kindanewtothis]

27 minutes ago, seabass said:

6' tank

I've ruled out the 72" tank because on the room but still looking for the 60".

[Kindanewtothis]

Ok so there might be a sump after all... someone is selling a 120 g on a stand with doors with 2 hydra 32hd for.... 850$.

 

Edit: There is no sump ditectly under it now but the place is there. Going to see it tonight.

[seabass]

Nice.  And if your current tank fits under that stand, you could potentially use it as a sump.  I use a 40 breeder tank as my sump for my 100 gallon tank.

[Kindanewtothis]

4 hours ago, seabass said:

Nice.  And if your current tank fits under that stand, you could potentially use it as a sump.  I use a 40 breeder tank as my sump for my 100 gallon tank.

Well it was too good to be true...

 

The 2 hydra 32hd have melted lens...

 

The cover was designed to fit these particular lights and I don't want to buy new hydra's because they have a bad reliability reputation anyway.

 

The way the stand is designed, it is impossible, without modifying it, to fit a big sump. I doubt something bigger than a 25 gallons could pass through the doors.

 

Deception, with the 2 hydras I could sell my 2 16hd...

 

Edit: https://aquariumdepot.ca/products/aquaillumination-replacement-light-lens

 

Hum...

[Kindanewtothis]

@seabass I bought it finally !

 

Now I have to figure out the sump part. I want to fit fresh water in there too for the ATO.

 

So 120g with 2 corner overflow and two hydra 32 that I must change lens on.

[seabass]

1 minute ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Now I have to figure out the sump part.

I'll try to help you out where I can.  So what are the dimensions of the new tank?

 

 

11 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

The way the stand is designed, it is impossible, without modifying it, to fit a big sump. I doubt something bigger than a 25 gallons could pass through the doors.

I'm guessing that the stand is open on the top, making it possible to drop in a larger sump/tank (versus trying to get it through the doors).

[Kindanewtothis]

22 minutes ago, seabass said:

So what are the dimensions of the new tank?

Standard 120g 48x24x24

 

22 minutes ago, seabass said:

guessing that the stand is open on the top

We looked at this option (me and the seller) last night but (and now my english has limits) there is a 2x6 in the middle (accros) to support the tank (not sure it is needed). So to fit the 50g in there i would need to cut that 2x6. Now I would re-enforce the stand so there is no need for that center support.

 

Also, I'm thinking simple. Still need to see how is the sump splitted. Drawing found online.

[Kindanewtothis]

Stupid question: I don't uderstand how the sump doesn't overflow. What happens when the return pump stops?

[seabass]

I'm wondering if there is a good way to remove the board and then reattach it after you have lowered the sump in (I'd need a pic of how the board is attached).  The other option might be to lower the sump down on its side (with the board still attached to the stand), then sit the sump upright once it's in the stand.

 

 

49 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Stupid question: I don't understand how the sump doesn't overflow. What happens when the return pump stops?

I'm not a fan of using check valves since they are prone to fail, which isn't good if you are relying on it to prevent a flood.  Usually, you can design things so that the sump doesn't overflow when power is cut.

 

You'll want enough extra room in the sump to handle the back flow from the overflow and plumbing.  The sump will probably be about half full when the tank is running, then fills up when the power to the return pump is cut off.

 

The overflow boxes should be sealed; but even if they leak a bit, the tank cannot drain lower then the stand pipe (drain pipe) or return nozzle.  Normally, once the siphon is broken on the return line, the sump stops filling up.

[Kindanewtothis]

5 minutes ago, seabass said:

The other option might be to lower the sump down on its side (with the board still attached to the sand), then sit the sump upright once it's in the stand

Still, I don't think 36x18x18 will pass this way. My father in law is a carpenter, I'm thinking of a door on the side of the cabinet maybe.

 

Also, I don't see how I can setup the sump in my 50 whit all the livestock and water in it. I think I need to find another tank to use as sump. Planning to use the 10g I still have as an ATO reservoir.

[seabass]

56 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

I don't think 36x18x18 will pass this way.

So the top of the stand would be 48" x 24".  Divide that in half with a 2" board (and assume maybe an inch around the edges); that makes an opening of 22" x 22".

 

What are the dimensions of your 50 gallon tank (36″x 18″ x 19″)?  I would think that a tank with sides which measure 18" x 19" should fit.

 

56 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

I don't see how I can setup the sump in my 50 whit all the livestock and water in it. I think I need to find another tank to use as sump.

A new sump would definitely be easier.  However, you could probably do it by housing you existing fish in a large Rubbermaid Brute container while you move the tank.

[Kindanewtothis]

 

 

That just helped me a lot to understand.

[seabass]

33 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

That just helped me a lot to understand.

That's good.  It's not that complicated once you wrap your head around it.

 

That video instructs how to find the maximum water level in your sump.  But anything lower than that (which doesn't allow the return pump to run dry is acceptable.  With mine, the sump usually runs about half full, and fills to about three quarters full when the return pump is turned off.

 

Another consideration is maintaining a constant water level for an in-sump skimmer.  Generally we add a glass baffle to create a return chamber (where the water level changes with evaporation):

https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/topic/301861-seabasss-in-wall-100-gallon/?do=findComment&comment=4942649

 

 

 

The bubbles from the drain created a bit of salt creep, so I came up with and installed this contraption to solve that problem:

https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/topic/301861-seabasss-in-wall-100-gallon/?do=findComment&comment=5452696

 

[Kindanewtothis]

https://aquariumdepot.ca/products/trigger-systems-crystal-sump-36s-36-inch?_pos=6&_sid=a2fb39d30&_ss=r

 

This is expensive but would be nice.

[Kindanewtothis]

What kind of power do I need for the return pump?

 

Is this too much?

 

https://aquariumdepot.ca/products/current-usa-loop-eflux-dc-flow-pump-3170