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Ratvan

Ratvan's RSM 130D (Kessil A360WE Upgrade)

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seabass
1 hour ago, Ratvan said:

I have no idea really, she's happy and healthy (and pretty) so that's all I really care about

I thought you were asking about a mate.  So I just saying that I believe she is Amphiprion ocellaris, so a potential mate should also be A. ocellaris, not A. percula.

 

I was kidding when I said that "figures" about the other forum.  I'm just particularly fond of this one.  There are usually some knowledgeable posters on most forums.

 

Also, sorry about posting the Live Aquaria link versus answering your question (had stuff going on at the time).  My process is usually to check suggested minimum tank size for the fish, then compatibility, then read the descriptions on each one.  I know some wrasses (like Lubbock's) may require more room than a 34 gallon tank.

 

A pink streaked wrasse is is pretty cool and a very nano appropriate fish.  Some wrasses get along with other wrasses, while some don't.

 

Blennies don't always get along with gobies.  They can be a similar in size and shape, and prefer similar locations, sometimes prompting more aggressive behavior.

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Ratvan
2 minutes ago, seabass said:

I thought you were asking about a mate.  So I just saying that I believe she is Amphiprion ocellaris, so a potential mate should also be A. ocellaris, not A. percula.

 

I was kidding when I said that "figures" about the other forum.  I'm just particularly fond of this one.  There are usually some knowledgeable posters on most forums.

 

Also, sorry about posting the Live Aquaria link versus answering your question (had stuff going on at the time).  My process is usually to check suggested minimum tank size for the fish, then compatibility, then read the descriptions on each one.  I know some wrasses (like Lubbock's) may require more room than a 34 gallon tank.

 

A pink streaked wrasse is is pretty cool and a very nano appropriate fish.  Some wrasses get along with other wrasses, while some don't.

 

Blennies don't always get along with gobies.  They can be a similar size shape, and prefer similar locations, sometimes prompting more aggressive behavior.

Ooooh no sorry, but good to know. So as long as it is a Ocelarris Subspecies I can get what I want (within reason)?

 

No I rely mostly on this forum, I use Ultimate Reef for local classified but advice i tend to stick here. Generally if I do receive some advise i'll check it in books or see what members here have undertaken the same method and how it worked out. 

 

Live Aquaria is amazing, I use it a lot when looking at fish species and needs. However I do wonder what the requirement for minimum tank size actually refers to? For instance is it swimming space (length of tank, depth of tank) or is it hiding places (amount of rock and caves) I know for some species (Mandarins) it will be pod population. I know for example that the three Wrasses that I have listed require a pretty robust and continual supply of pods in the tank so i am actively working on keeping that population up with Phyto and adding more, oh and rotifers I find them really easy to culture. 

 

I am aware of the Goby and Blenny issue, I am a little wary of additions at the moment as my TSB is showing what i believe to be feeding aggression towards the clownfish. This only happens at feeding time with lights on, so have been feeding with lights off and had no issues at all.

 

I can get a decent variety of Nano Gobies now so hoping that something will be suitable, if not most likely will be the first things cut from the stocking list as they're also the most expensive to buy for me (I can get a Flame Angel Wrasse for less than a Yasha Goby) 

 

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seabass
1 minute ago, Ratvan said:

So as long as it is a Ocelarris Subspecies I can get what I want (within reason)?

If it's a notably smaller juvenile, then typically yes.  I've read just a few threads where someone had problems.  Who knows, might have been a different species, or their size was too similar.

 

6 minutes ago, Ratvan said:

I do wonder what the requirement for minimum tank size actually refers to? For instance is it swimming space (length of tank, depth of tank) or is it hiding places (amount of rock and caves) I know for some species (Mandarins) it will be pod population.

Good question.  I feel they try to factor in several factors (like, obviously, an actively swimming fish will require more space).  Surface area can even be a factor that can vary from a taller tank, to a more shallow tank (and tank shape is almost never mentioned).  Some of LA's suggested minimum sizes seem outdated, while I might consider others spot on.  Normally I don't try to push it.  Here's a good guide to use as a check:

 

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Ratvan
6 minutes ago, seabass said:

If it's a notably smaller juvenile, then typically yes.  I've read just a few threads where someone had problems.  Who knows, might have been a different species, or their size was too similar.

 

Good question.  I feel they try to factor in several factors (like, obviously, an actively swimming fish will require more space).  Surface area can even be a factor that can vary from a taller tank, to a more shallow tank (and tank shape is almost never mentioned).  Some of LA's suggested minimum sizes seem outdated, while I might consider others spot on.  Normally I don't try to push it.  Here's a good guide to use as a check:

 

Yeah that thread makes it worse for conflicting information lol

image.thumb.png.80d3e2f9baa1f27d41d5d5e3d933c765.png

 

So suitable for a 20Gallon Tank (3-5)

-Carpenter Flasher Wrasse
-Filamented Flasher Wrasse
-Fourline Wrasse (placement in 20g min suggested by Travis)
-Longfin Fairy Wrasse
-Pink Streaked/Cryptic Wrasse (suggested by bnaef17)
-Redfin Fairy Wrasse
-Sixline Wrasse
-Tricolor (Lubbock’s) Fairy Wrasse
-Twinspot Hogfish

 

I do want more rock and more caves, I have sourced some decently priced Rock Shelves and plan a cave structure of sorts in each back corner, I want to do something under my weir as well but not 100% sure what yet. 

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Dirté Sanchez
3 hours ago, Ratvan said:

I have no idea really, she's happy and healthy (and pretty) so that's all I really care about

I had not heard that? Something (else) to read up on 

Let me know the verdict- someone told

me I could put a leopard wrasse in with my coris (not interested) and that caught me off guard. Been wanting to know the real story on that for a while now

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Ratvan
1 minute ago, Dirté Sanchez said:

Let me know the verdict- someone told

me I could put a leopard wrasse in with my coris (not interested) and that caught me off guard. Been wanting to know the real story on that for a while now

Will do if i ever figure this out! 

I think that the stocking order and amount of filtration will play the largest part in this, as well as getting to a suitable scape 

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StinkyBunny
2 hours ago, Ratvan said:

Yeah that thread makes it worse for conflicting information lol

image.thumb.png.80d3e2f9baa1f27d41d5d5e3d933c765.png

 

So suitable for a 20Gallon Tank (3-5)

-Carpenter Flasher Wrasse Yes
-Filamented Flasher Wrasse No
-Fourline Wrasse (placement in 20g min suggested by Travis) Yes
-Longfin Fairy Wrasse No
-Pink Streaked/Cryptic Wrasse (suggested by bnaef17) Yes
-Redfin Fairy Wrasse Yes
-Sixline Wrasse OH HELLS NOE!!!
-Tricolor (Lubbock’s) Fairy Wrasse No
-Twinspot Hogfish No

 

I do want more rock and more caves, I have sourced some decently priced Rock Shelves and plan a cave structure of sorts in each back corner, I want to do something under my weir as well but not 100% sure what yet. 

DO NOT put a 6 line in that tank! I'm serious, when they start their change to terminal phase they become flaming dickheads and will kill anything. I have to keep the little shits separated at the shop because they will kill each other even after they'd been in transit for 20-30 hours. Get a nice Possum wrasse, Yellow Coris wrasses are damn nice, Royal Grammas, shrimp gobies and their commensal shrimps, blennies or Chalk bass would be my choices for a peaceful tank. Flasher wrasses like to swim and can get pissy when they can't.

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Ratvan
Just now, StinkyBunny said:

DO NOT put a 6 line in that tank! I'm serious, when they start their change to terminal phase they become flaming dickheads and will kill anything. I have to keep the little shits separated at the shop because they will kill each other even after they'd been in transit for 20-30 hours. Get a nice Possum wrasse, Yellow Coris wrasses are damn nice, Royal Grammas, shrimp gobies and their commensal shrimps, blennies or Chalk bass would be my choices for a peaceful tank. Flasher wrasses like to swim and can get pissy when they can't.

Not putting a 6 Line in, they're too expensive for me.

Leaning towards

Pink Streaked Wrasse

Lubbocks Fairy Wrasse

Possum Wrasse - either White Banded or Tanaka's 

 

Was showing that the Nano Fish thread on here conflicts with a lot of information on places live Liveaquaria 

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seabass
5 minutes ago, Ratvan said:

Was showing that the Nano Fish thread on here conflicts with a lot of information on places live Liveaquaria

In some cases, very much so.  It's good to check multiple sources; not to find one that supports what you want to do, but to verify that the information you're looking at is basically correct.

 

Minimum tank size recommendations typically wouldn't be the same as recommended tank sizes.  It might also make certain assumptions which don't fit your situation (like tank mates, amount of rock, etc).

 

In some of these cases, I feel the recommendations are too small; in others, maybe larger than they need to be.  If you went solely off of Live Aquaria's recommendations, I don't think you could keep any fish in less than 10 gallons of water.

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Ratvan

Well had a few mis-fires but have the ATO set up now, got the 5.5G Cube filled up with RODI water.

All working well and has now been extensively tested. The wall and floor (and face) has also been dried out ūüėĄ

I actually have space on the same shelf for a second 5.5g cube that could act as QT tank, or more likely space below for a standard 10 Gallon QT   

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Ratvan

Ah F#ck, where was this bit meant to go?

20191011_152450.thumb.jpg.40aa4f1f9ae75cc8f5b74ee27b715532.jpg

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seabass
4 minutes ago, Ratvan said:

where was this bit meant to go?

Not sure; looks like a insert fitting coupler (to join two pieces of tubing together).

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Ratvan
2 minutes ago, seabass said:

Not sure; looks like a insert fitting coupler (to join two pieces of tubing together).

Heart attack over, was an extra for the kit with two sensors. I only got a single sensor

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Dirté Sanchez
18 minutes ago, Ratvan said:

Ah F#ck, where was this bit meant to go?

20191011_152450.thumb.jpg.40aa4f1f9ae75cc8f5b74ee27b715532.jpg

That’s the break siphon valve thing for your ATO I bet. I don’t use it. I put it in line on mine just like the picture showed and it pizzled water EVERYWHERE. I think if you put the line just above the water so the spout gets air when done refilling, there will be no siphon effect

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Ratvan

 @Dirté Sanchez can't remember where I got it from (was on a sticky note on my works PC)  hoping it pans out

 

"Most wrasses can be mixed without any trouble. Its the Pseudocheilinus wrasses (Six Lines, Eight Lines, etc) and Thalassoma wrasses (paddlefins, lunares, etc) that become quite boisterous. Sand wrasses (Macropharyngodon [leopards] and Halichoeres) can all be mixed with other wrasses without any worries, though some of the larger Halichoeres will eat smaller fish, shrimp, etc. Flashers (Paracheilinus) and fairy (Cirrhilabrus) wrasses are usually 100% compatible with one another, other wrasses, other fish, shrimp, etc."

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Ratvan

So I have been thinking about my Quarantine Routine (Prophylactic), I plan to do this one Wrasse at a time, most likely starting with Wetmorella Species, Pink Streak and Lubbock's

 

Regime is 

I was going to do a couple of FW Dips, but have read that Wrasse really do not like those so most likely not going to do that

  • 1-2 Weeks rest
  • Chloroquine Treatment - 3 weeks
  • Praziquantel Bath - 6 hours
  • 1-2 Weeks rest
  • Introduce to DT

Chloroquin Treatment:

I have 250mg Avloclor Tablets (155mg Chloroquine), one tablet is good for 15Litres of water, my QT will be 40 so 3 tablets. Will add all three (crushed and mixed into RO) on day 1 and leave for the full 20 days. Day 21 I will add Poly Pads and remove the medication

 

Praziquantel Bath:

The plan is to Siphon a buckets worth (2.5G) of water out of the QT and put the fish in. To this I will have already added a heater, thermometer and air stone with pump. I will add 1ml of Sera Tremazol and leave for 6 hours. Then net out the fish and reintroduce back into QT for another 1-2 weeks before releasing into DT if no further issues present themselves. 

 

Is there anything i have missed? @mcarroll, @Humblefish

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Humblefish

@Ratvan You can use Chloroquine on all wrasses except Paracheilinus and Pseudocheilinus spp. If treating for only 20 days, I would transfer the fish into another QT as some strains of Crypto can remain encysted for longer than that. Going from QT#1 to QT#2 would also be the perfect time to administer the prazi bath.

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Ratvan

Well the ATO survived the weekend intact (yay), it seems that the reduced photoperiod has also worked on the algae issue that I had. 

 

 

20191014_093840.thumb.jpg.c78cf630f4fd85c95401c30f02af84d8.jpg

 

Looking into the possibility of a Wrasse today

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kimdawg

Tank is looking great.  I love the barnacle rock!

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Ratvan
Just now, kimdawg said:

Tank is looking great.  I love the barnacle rock!

Thanks, wish I had waited for the tank to develop further before adding them. Still need to angle them differently as they're currently acting as an eddy and collecting a fair amount of algae... mind you ten minutes with a pipette clears them out. 

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kimdawg

Mine are not attached to anything so I just swish them upside down in the water that I take out for water change.  I guess my way is the lazy reefer way.

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Ratvan

Does anyone have experience of being sent the wrong fish? Ordered a White Banded possum wrasse on the weekend for pre 1pm delivery this morning. Spoke to company who apologise for their error and will be sending out the possum when in stock. Grrrrr. The f*ck do I do with this one now?

 

This is not my fish!!

Female/Juvie Wrasse of some sort.

20191014_122612.jpg

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Snow_Phoenix
7 minutes ago, Ratvan said:

Does anyone have experience of being sent the wrong fish? Ordered a White Banded possum wrasse on the weekend for pre 1pm delivery this morning. Spoke to company who apologise for their error and will be sending out the possum when in stock. Grrrrr. The f*ck do I do with this one now?

 

This is not my fish!!

Female/Juvie Wrasse of some sort.

20191014_122612.jpg

Blue Star Leopard Wrasse! Ooh, I'd love to have it! Why do you need to be on the other side of the planet?¬†ūüėě

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WV Reefer
11 minutes ago, Ratvan said:

Does anyone have experience of being sent the wrong fish? Ordered a White Banded possum wrasse on the weekend for pre 1pm delivery this morning. Spoke to company who apologise for their error and will be sending out the possum when in stock. Grrrrr. The f*ck do I do with this one now?

 

This is not my fish!!

Female/Juvie Wrasse of some sort.

20191014_122612.jpg

That sucks!
 

Nice fish though. 

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Ratvan
6 minutes ago, Snow_Phoenix said:

Blue Star Leopard Wrasse! Ooh, I'd love to have it! Why do you need to be on the other side of the planet?¬†ūüėě

Urgh, live aquaria lists as Expert Level and 50g minimum. Looks like I'll have to look to try and move this one on?

Just now, WV Reefer said:

That sucks!
 

Nice fish though. 

Yes and very much yes. 

 

 

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