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Fluval Evo 13.5 Owners Thread


Smitten4Witten

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2 hours ago, afcajax73 said:

out of interest... what's everyone running filter media wise?

Charcoal and a quality filter pad.  Replace charcoal every month, and filter pad about twice a week or more.

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On 1/30/2020 at 1:45 PM, afcajax73 said:

out of interest... what's everyone running filter media wise?

A bag of activated carbon, some filter floss and a chaeto refugium for me along with about 8 kilos of live rock. 

 

Will be getting the fluval PS2 skimmer this month to help a bit as well, considering moving my chaeto to a HOB refugium for more space so I’m not having to shove filter stuff in my return pump section once I add the skimmer. 

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Hi guys,

Thanks for the feedback. As far as clarity of the water I think ditching the PS2 skimmer and doubling up on filtration baskets for extra bio filtration along with chemipure elite is what’s really helping. Had some diatoms early on but snails took care of those. I upgraded the lighting to a Red Sea Reef LED 50. I think it’s pretty comparable to the AI prime. Wi-Fi connectivity and solid controls, spectrum looks great and corals have already shown improvement. I bought some screen and frame set from Lowes and made a lid to replace the hood. I also recently got intanks sump cover and repositioned the light.

DB00C52F-2A9B-435B-A867-2CDA87979117.jpeg

732E00A6-DA08-4B01-A74C-25A4E33CD264.jpeg

CE374EF3-3DBE-48CF-A5F6-6D0671000CDF.jpeg

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I’ve been cycling the Evo for about a year now, but never gave it the proper attention it needed so never made any real progress. I have read a ton of this forum on the Evo and love all the mods so I have an AI prime, Tunze Nano ATO, Intank Chamber 1 basket, as well as a random flow generator pump head attachment on the way. I’ve heard of some people having trouble with using the intank media basket in chamber 1 when it comes to water levels in the sump. Does anyone have an improved pump (I believe the stock pump is 135 GPH) AND an intank chamber 1 media basket? Have any problems with water flow in the sump? I guess I’m just worried that an improved pump will be supplying water faster than it can flow through the sump if I have the basket blocking flow and the back wall hole plugged. Any advice or insight?

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28 minutes ago, Mr. E said:

I’ve been cycling the Evo for about a year now, but never gave it the proper attention it needed so never made any real progress. I have read a ton of this forum on the Evo and love all the mods so I have an AI prime, Tunze Nano ATO, Intank Chamber 1 basket, as well as a random flow generator pump head attachment on the way. I’ve heard of some people having trouble with using the intank media basket in chamber 1 when it comes to water levels in the sump. Does anyone have an improved pump (I believe the stock pump is 135 GPH) AND an intank chamber 1 media basket? Have any problems with water flow in the sump? I guess I’m just worried that an improved pump will be supplying water faster than it can flow through the sump if I have the basket blocking flow and the back wall hole plugged. Any advice or insight?

I have that setup. I actually cut down the top edge of the front of the basket to allow the skimmer attachment to sit inside the chamber.  I had to have the plastic skimmer piece sit inside as my powerhead setup interfered with the placement. Easier solution to allow more flow is to cut a bit off the bottom of the tabs that stick on the chamber grill. But really, just increasing the level of water in the back and having a good top off method keeps the water flowing fine without all that extra work.  I have a Tunze return pump which is about max 230 gph, but I have it dialed down a bit (flow restricted, its not an adjustable DC pump).  It is important to remove and clean the powerhead and the tubing in order to keep adequate flow. The stock pump is fine, I like a lower flow through the back, and more flow in the tank with wavemakers/powerheads.

 

 

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NaturallyKait

I have the same tunze pump Garf has and a chamber one media basket. I find my water level fluctuates which is frustrating. The media basket shifts front to back some which changes the way the flow director fits up against the teeth of the overflow and the water level with it. I don’t know if it’s my tank or I’m doing something wrong that causes it honestly. When it’s right up against the overflow the water level in the tank is pretty high and it touches the bottom of my mesh lid which is annoying, but when it shifts back it’s a good level in the tank but not all the water goes through the basket. Ultimately it hasn’t been enough to make me stop using the basket, but I don’t know that I’d trust an ATO with it on my tank because sometimes when it shifts the water level in the back goes low enough that it would kick an ATO in when it doesn’t need it and lower the salinity in the tank. I’m upgrading to a new tank in the next week or so anyway so soon it’ll be a moot point for me. 

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Hey guys, 

 

New Fluval Evo 13.5 owner here! 1st week was cycling with 10lbs of live rock + bio-spira. It's now my 2nd week and added some livestock.

 

I don't see a lot of evap, how much water should I top off manually per day? 

 

Here's the pic

 

evo.thumb.jpg.dc704f609696fec37c3eace5f2e2a44f.jpg

 

mods:

added hydor koralia 240gph

changed default carbon to chemi-pure elite

added aquatic life protein skimmer

 

fish: 3

2 clownfish

1 firefish

 

cuc: 3

1 snail

2 hermit crabs

 

corals: (mostly frags beside 1 colony)

1 white hammer (colony)

1 ricordea mushroom

1 red and green war

1 zoa green

1 zoa red

1 kenya tree

1 gsp

1 duncan

 

I think overall I spent almost $820 for everything including test kits, etc. but I can't wait for frags to grow and mature!

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NaturallyKait
6 hours ago, Leo.LA said:

Hey guys, 

 

New Fluval Evo 13.5 owner here! 1st week was cycling with 10lbs of live rock + bio-spira. It's now my 2nd week and added some livestock.

 

I don't see a lot of evap, how much water should I top off manually per day? 

 

Here's the pic

 

evo.thumb.jpg.dc704f609696fec37c3eace5f2e2a44f.jpg

 

mods:

added hydor koralia 240gph

changed default carbon to chemi-pure elite

added aquatic life protein skimmer

 

fish: 3

2 clownfish

1 firefish

 

cuc: 3

1 snail

2 hermit crabs

 

corals: (mostly frags beside 1 colony)

1 white hammer (colony)

1 ricordea mushroom

1 red and green war

1 zoa green

1 zoa red

1 kenya tree

1 gsp

1 duncan

 

I think overall I spent almost $820 for everything including test kits, etc. but I can't wait for frags to grow and mature!

Honestly when I was running the stock lid I never had evap and I never needed to top up. That’s one of the perks of a closed lid like that. How much you would top off depends completely on how much evaporated out, which is different for every system and not really something that you could base off of what someone else uses for top up. 

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4 hours ago, NaturallyKait said:

Honestly when I was running the stock lid I never had evap and I never needed to top up. That’s one of the perks of a closed lid like that. How much you would top off depends completely on how much evaporated out, which is different for every system and not really something that you could base off of what someone else uses for top up. 

My water in the display is actually closer to the lid (about 3 row dots before end of tank) but I noticed that the chamber is lower than the main display tank. Since I am planning to do 20% water change weekly, maybe just top off a little bit in the chamber mid-week?

 

lid.thumb.jpg.5b132e84dec3107c61de12b70ba2a6c7.jpg

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appleSHAMPOO17
1 hour ago, Leo.LA said:

My water in the display is actually closer to the lid (about 3 row dots before end of tank) but I noticed that the chamber is lower than the main display tank. Since I am planning to do 20% water change weekly, maybe just top off a little bit in the chamber mid-week?

 

lid.thumb.jpg.5b132e84dec3107c61de12b70ba2a6c7.jpg

Your main display is pretty full! Most people keep their water level closer to the bottom of the honeycomb on these tanks. For topping up with fresh water, you'll want to pay attention to the water level in the chamber with your return pump (chamber 3). This is where you'll notice the water level change due to evaporation, I'd mark this level after each water change (with the return pump on) so you can keep it filled to the same spot and maintain a stable salinity.

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Hey everyone,

I just got my tank a few days ago and was hoping my house always being about 76 would keep the tank warm enough but it’s sitting at 68 degrees F so I need a heater. 
the new fuval stock heater is too long to fit above the pump so I figured I would see what everyone here uses or recommends. 

I also wanted to see thoughts on a skimmer, the shop owners said it makes life a lot easier but I see a lot of other mediums being used on this thread. 

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5 hours ago, Leo.LA said:

My water in the display is actually closer to the lid (about 3 row dots before end of tank) but I noticed that the chamber is lower than the main display tank. Since I am planning to do 20% water change weekly, maybe just top off a little bit in the chamber mid-week?

 

lid.thumb.jpg.5b132e84dec3107c61de12b70ba2a6c7.jpg

Should run your water level low enough that there is a waterfall effect at the overflow.. this produces a surface skimming effect that ensures surface is cleaned and able to exchange gasses freely. The water level in the media Chambers will be about .5-1.5" below the display(which should be slightly above the black honeycomb) to achieve this. Once you have the water level you want, you can mark it with anything inconspicuous.. I use a small clear piece of tape. The evaporation will show in the media chambers water level, so somewhere back there is where you can mark it, and if it falls below mark, top off. Mine goes through around 12oz a week. I can't imagine how you can even put your hands in the tank with that water that high 😂

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1 hour ago, lambogriffin said:

Should run your water level low enough that there is a waterfall effect at the overflow.. this produces a surface skimming effect that ensures surface is cleaned and able to exchange gasses freely. The water level in the media Chambers will be about .5-1.5" below the display(which should be slightly above the black honeycomb) to achieve this. Once you have the water level you want, you can mark it with anything inconspicuous.. I use a small clear piece of tape. The evaporation will show in the media chambers water level, so somewhere back there is where you can mark it, and if it falls below mark, top off. Mine goes through around 12oz a week. I can't imagine how you can even put your hands in the tank with that water that high 😂

Thanks!

 

When you say waterfall effect at the overflow, how would that look like? How high should I adjust the protein skimmer plate? 

 

IMG_20200207_171245.thumb.jpg.77ac30943f9e330a41e8a40be42f496f.jpg

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Also I know 3 small fish might be the maximum recommended load in this small tank, but anyone had any success with more than 3 fish? I don't know if I can add another one after my 2 clown and 1 firefish but if so, I am thinking of adding 1 royal gamma basslet.

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I'm always so jealous when I look at others' tank shots... They're all clear and algae free but I can never get to that point! I've always got some sort of algae in there. I seem to get rid of one only to collect another. 

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Hi, new here and venturing for a 3rd time in to reef keeping.

 

Looking at the Fluval Evo 13.5 as the tank.  I'm struggling to find the Fluval M50 heater so looking at the Fluval E 50w Advanced Electronic Heater instead.  Does anyone know if this will fit in as a direct replacement in the same chamber above the return pump?

 

Thanks

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1 hour ago, gavbuk said:

Hi, new here and venturing for a 3rd time in to reef keeping.

 

Looking at the Fluval Evo 13.5 as the tank.  I'm struggling to find the Fluval M50 heater so looking at the Fluval E 50w Advanced Electronic Heater instead.  Does anyone know if this will fit in as a direct replacement in the same chamber above the return pump?

 

Thanks

I would look for anything other than Fluval. Depending on your budget, there is a lot out there. You will want to be able to monitor and control the temperature, so I'd suggest something like the BulkReefSupply 100w heater with a controller. It is a nice setup, and a good price. Other good alternatives are the Colbalt NEO-Therm, get the 75w. They are a bit more expensive than others, but have a 5year warranty, and are worth it.

 

 

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@Garf / @pikemartin Thanks both. Went for a Aquael Ultra Heater 100w (essential the same as the Neotherm) in the end alongside a D-D Dual Heating & Cooling Controller in the end.  Purchased a cheap spare Marina heater too just for water changes, etc but as an emergency spare just in case.

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Next Question....

 

So I'm going to replace my chamber 2 section with a Media basket.....I am 3D Printing one in PETG which I found online....needed modification so I could print in 2 sections but none the less, it'll be done shortly.

 

The tank itself is not yet setup.  I was planning to start with the kit that comes with the Fluval and then replace with the media basket in a few weeks as need to get media, etc first.  Firstly, is that a good idea or should I start out as I mean to go on?

 

The next question I have is in regards to what to put in the media basket?  I am thinking a phosphate remover, some active carbon and maybe Zeolite....any opinions on this or alternative suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance

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