spectra Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Oh you'll have plenty light that's for sure. And a sexy light. Sexy times, what tank you setting up? A Versa 42. Only tank with that footprint so was kind of stuck with it...... http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/365860-spectras-cadlights-versa-42/ Link to comment
Chris! Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 That's what I am concerned about- no real recipe.........is that a thicker skim milk or thinner - lol Really you can go "strong" and still be very safe. I always do 10-15 minutes regardless on how much I add tho some claim you can do less if a "strong" mix. I probably go more of a "whole milk" consistency... you can't see the bottom or even sides of my orange 5g "homer" bucket LOL Link to comment
Sk8n Reefer Posted December 28, 2015 Author Share Posted December 28, 2015 A Versa 42. Only tank with that footprint so was kind of stuck with it...... http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/365860-spectras-cadlights-versa-42/ Nice looking build you got going? Link to comment
Sk8n Reefer Posted December 28, 2015 Author Share Posted December 28, 2015 Really you can go "strong" and still be very safe. I always do 10-15 minutes regardless on how much I add tho some claim you can do less if a "strong" mix. I probably go more of a "whole milk" consistency... you can't see the bottom or even sides of my orange 5g "homer" bucket LOL Alright - you almost got me convinced ? Link to comment
HarryPotter Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 Really you can go "strong" and still be very safe. I always do 10-15 minutes regardless on how much I add tho some claim you can do less if a "strong" mix. I probably go more of a "whole milk" consistency... you can't see the bottom or even sides of my orange 5g "homer" bucket LOL This works for SPS, LPS, and softies? (Zoas, muchroom rocks, etc) Not for clams and anemones of course- correct? Link to comment
Chris! Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 This works for SPS, LPS, and softies? (Zoas, muchroom rocks, etc) Not for clams and anemones of course- correct? Yup I've done all those safely... wear gloves, don't get it on your skin or breathe it in tho. lol No idea bout nems or clams, thought I read somewhere someone dipped nems tho but I have no idea or experience with it with them. Alright - you almost got me convinced LOL just do it man. Your stepping your acro game up, time to step the dip game up to lol Link to comment
Sk8n Reefer Posted December 28, 2015 Author Share Posted December 28, 2015 Yup I've done all those safely... wear gloves, don't get it on your skin or breathe it in tho. lol No idea bout nems or clams, thought I read somewhere someone dipped nems tho but I have no idea or experience with it with them. LOL just do it man. Your stepping your acro game up, time to step the dip game up to lol Well I've bought a smooth skin acro but haven't kept anything alive yet ? Link to comment
4x5 Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 I've never dipped with anything other than Revive, I've never lost a Deepwater to dipping and never had any pests *touchwood* - but that's just my experience with it. With the price of frags in the US they should come with a certificate of cleanliness. Link to comment
Sk8n Reefer Posted December 28, 2015 Author Share Posted December 28, 2015 I've never dipped with anything other than Revive, I've never lost a Deepwater to dipping and never had any pests *touchwood* - but that's just my experience with it. With the price of frags in the US they should come with a certificate of cleanliness. Hahaha- I like that -certificate of cleanliness - your on to something there?. I've lost one Idaho grape frag with revive- never made it into the tank but that's been my only bad experience with it. Every other coral has tolerated it and done well. So your acros are cheaper there? Is that true with most corals? Link to comment
4x5 Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 They are cheaper yes, 1 inch frags aren't really found commonly over here - there was a guy but he's no longer. Based on the current exchange rate maricultured sps colonies usually cost about $35-50. That said it's a lot harder to get your hands on really nice Acros, people don't want to spend the money it seems - so there aren't any "designer" coral stores that I know of anyways. Maybe one day when I'm bored I'll start something up, just hard to do if you can't focus you attention on it. Link to comment
Sunstar Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 Gorgeous corals. magnificent shots. Link to comment
Sk8n Reefer Posted December 28, 2015 Author Share Posted December 28, 2015 They are cheaper yes, 1 inch frags aren't really found commonly over here - there was a guy but he's no longer. Based on the current exchange rate maricultured sps colonies usually cost about $35-50. That said it's a lot harder to get your hands on really nice Acros, people don't want to spend the money it seems - so there aren't any "designer" coral stores that I know of anyways. Maybe one day when I'm bored I'll start something up, just hard to do if you can't focus you attention on it.Pretty good pricing for sure. That's surprising that there aren't more demands for "designer" corals or really nice acros- I am sure it's coming thoughGorgeous corals. magnificent shots.Thank you Sunstar ? Link to comment
4x5 Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 I've spoken to my LFS about it and he's told me that you get guys who don't mind spending $1000+ on a fish but they think spending $50 on a coral is madness. Priorities I guess. Link to comment
Sk8n Reefer Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 Sweet new pick up! Dont be surprised if that echinata browns out for a while, every one Ive ever had has been real touchy with moves but are well worth it IMOWell enchinata has browned and maybe a goner.........no PE and looking quite dead- I moved it up to get a little more light - we will see. That didn't take long for me to kill it ?. Maybe it can come back but not looking promising. Link to comment
Nano sapiens Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Well enchinata has browned and maybe a goner.........no PE and looking quite dead- I moved it up to get a little more light - we will see. That didn't take long for me to kill it . Maybe it can come back but not looking promising. Sorry to see that. I wouldn't give up on it just yet if there is any tissue at all. I'm dealing with a M. samarensis that is down to a few tiny frags placed in different areas just hoping one of them pulls through. Link to comment
Sk8n Reefer Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 Sorry to see that. I wouldn't give up on it just yet if there is any tissue at all. I'm dealing with a M. samarensis that is down to a few tiny frags placed in different areas just hoping one of them pulls through.Not seeing any tissue with the magnifying glass, I'll take some macro shots too- that's always a good way to see the details. Hate to say it but it never seemed to recover from the dip (revive). Maybe I left it in too long - 15min. How are the frags doing? Any doing better ? Link to comment
Nano sapiens Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Not seeing any tissue with the magnifying glass, I'll take some macro shots too- that's always a good way to see the details. Hate to say it but it never seemed to recover from the dip (revive). Maybe I left it in too long - 15min. How are the frags doing? Any doing better ? 15 min is perhaps a bit long, especially for smooth skin acros. From the ORA website: Hawkins Echinata is a very delicate short branching coral that exhibits a turquoise to aquamarine coloration. The tips of the ORA Hawkins turn ultraviolet in color when under intense lighting. The absence of a protective slime coat on this coral’s tissue makes it more prone to drying out when out of the water and more sensitive to iodine based dips. I didn't dip my A. granulosa for this reason, just removed the base and visually inspected the frag thoroughly with a magnifiying glass for pests. I have three micro frags of the 'Bubblegum Digi' (samarensis) and only a small portion of the base of one looks decent. I don't see many people with this morph and I think I see the reason why as it is extremely sensitive to being fragged. Link to comment
Sk8n Reefer Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 15 min is perhaps a bit long, especially for smooth skin acros. From the ORA website: Hawkins Echinata is a very delicate short branching coral that exhibits a turquoise to aquamarine coloration. The tips of the ORA Hawkins turn ultraviolet in color when under intense lighting. The absence of a protective slime coat on this corals tissue makes it more prone to drying out when out of the water and more sensitive to iodine based dips.[/size] I didn't dip my A. granulosa for this reason, just removed the base and visually inspected the frag thoroughly with a magnifiying glass for pests. I have three micro frags of the 'Bubblegum Digi' (samarensis) and only a small portion of the base of one looks decent. I don't see many people with this morph and I think I see the reason why as it is extremely sensitive to being fragged. Yes sir, there it is. Thanks for the info. I read up last night on corals dips from various websites and the one coral everyone keeps mentioning as difficult to dip and not reacting well is the enchinata- damn it. I hate having the responsibility of a live coral and not even giving it a chance ?. From the information I found Revive is one of the more stressful dips, then Coral RX, then Bayer. Everyone seems to agree Bayer is the best balance between killing pest and not stressing your coral. I have to rethink my dipping procedure if I am moving to smooth skin acros- shorter time and go with the Bayer. I normally always try to remove the plug so that will not change. The spongode is doing quite well in the 50gal. so the Revive did not bother him at all- he was also in the same batch as the enchinata. Time to go to Home Depot and pick up some Bayer for future sensitive acros. ? Bubblegum digi?- not sure I've ever seen one of those. Good luck with the frags- if anyone can nurse them back you can ? snap a few shots of the frags when you can Link to comment
Nano sapiens Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 We all live and learn in this hobby, that's for sure. I'm the poster child for not using commercial coral dips, just iodine and freshwater dips for those corals that can take it. However, I do take my time and carefully examine frags very carefully for nasties. The 'Bubblegum Digi' was originally distrbuted by the now defunct 'Wet Thumbs'. It's similar to the 'Forest Fire Digi', but has blues and greens. Quite stunning when in good shape, but my left over mini frags are in such bad shape it's embarrasing to take pics How it should look: Link to comment
Sk8n Reefer Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 We all live and learn in this hobby, that's for sure. I'm the poster child for not using commercial coral dips, just iodine and freshwater dips for those corals that can take it. However, I do take my time and carefully examine frags very carefully for nasties. The 'Bubblegum Digi' was originally distrbuted by the now defunct 'Wet Thumbs'. It's similar to the 'Forest Fire Digi', but has blues and greens. Quite stunning when in good shape, but my left over mini frags are in such bad shape it's embarrasing to take pics How it should look: Wow that's a beautiful digi- normally digi's are pretty hardy- not the case with these or,has it just started acting up? Link to comment
Nano sapiens Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Wow that's a beautiful digi- normally digi's are pretty hardy- not the case with these or,has it just started acting up? There's the rub...it's very likely not M. digitata, but rather M. samarensis. According to authorities, M. samarensis is very suseptable to bleaching and disease, so basically the polar opposite of it's cousin, M. digitata. Link to comment
NanoFever Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Bayer all the way! I have used both. Link to comment
Sk8n Reefer Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 Bayer all the way! I have used both. How long do you leave them in Bayer? Do you mix to a milky solution? Link to comment
markalot Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 I have yet to kill anything with Bayer. I go nearly whole milk, but I like to be able to see in near the sides. Merry Christmas and Happy New Years! Link to comment
Sk8n Reefer Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 I have yet to kill anything with Bayer. I go nearly whole milk, but I like to be able to see in near the sides. Merry Christmas and Happy New Years! Thanks Mark, same to you. Yes I think it's time to try Bayer - my attempt at smooth skin acros has started rough- enchinata died a day after the dip with Revive. How long do you leave them in the Bayer? After reading up on the enchinata I see they do not react well to fragging or dipping. Link to comment
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