The_Barbe-Hatten_Project Posted June 1, 2004 Author Share Posted June 1, 2004 there is even some macro algae growing on it... The green bubble looking stuff... Link to comment
B16A2NR Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 Ditch the HOB heater before you start adding anything. Link to comment
Reefer_Buddha Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 if its bubble algae then youd better take that rock out and scrub it off. Im dealing with that stuff in my tank now and its a major PITA. If it looks like green bubbles that grow on the lr then thats it. Link to comment
The_Barbe-Hatten_Project Posted June 1, 2004 Author Share Posted June 1, 2004 No no... that's the begining phases of the green hair algae that starts when your tank is cycling... this is the stuff that people put in Refugiums... It's the good stuff... it grows in stalks: --o--o--o--o--o--o Why would i ditch the HOB Heater?... Link to comment
Reefer_Buddha Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 ahh grape caulerpa sounds like. Link to comment
The_Barbe-Hatten_Project Posted June 1, 2004 Author Share Posted June 1, 2004 Yeah thanks.. that's what i meant to say ;-) !!! i don't have much experience with fuges.. I do have a question... I want to incorperate the rocks that my polyps and shrooms come on into the rock wall i'm building, but i know i'm going to end up putting more LR in on top of those peices... My question is as to whether or not adding CURED LR in with the corals will spike the ammonia and kill everything...???? Remember PRE-CURED (under halides and plenty of water movement) LR... Link to comment
Reefer_Buddha Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 Cured live rock is rock that has had a die-off so there would be no spike in ammonia. And if there was it would be very small. When lr is curing is when the ammonia is spiking because things on the rock are dying and the decomposition of those organisms is the increase in ammonia. I dont think it would hurt at all. Link to comment
Nanite Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 Originally posted by The_Barbe-Hatten_Project Thanks... From what i read it sounds like a good way to keep sediments in the front... I was trying to think of a way to keep an equal amount of flow out of all the holes... My idea is to drill smaller holes at the begining of the bar and larger ones as i got closer to the end... I've seen that post before but i could not find it for the life of me... Thanks again... Hi.. Thanks for the comment, Yeah ive seen your 3d exploded view of your project, that was really cool., was it done with autocad or some other program, as i used a 3d seascape/landscape program to do mine. Regards from Len.. Link to comment
The_Barbe-Hatten_Project Posted June 1, 2004 Author Share Posted June 1, 2004 If that's OK than here is my plan: Before adding any more LR... i'm going to carry out my plumbing plan (I've heard no bad comments on my design) Dual nozzles at the top front corners and a spray bar along the bottom back of the tank (still interested in anyones ideas about keeping even flow out of the holes all the way down the bar... After my plumbing is complete, i'm going to buy a similar peice of cured LR on to use as a base rock on the left hand side of the tank (the peice n the previous pictures is not fully cured, no fish, no problem) After i add the second peice of Marshall Island, i'm going to purchase a stick of that underwater epoxy and a rock of mushrooms or polyps.. just whatever the LFS has in stock with the most color! Glue the frag rock onto my existing rocks and probably pic up a few small chunks of MI to glue around it (to make it look like it should be there) Next i'm going to add another layer of cured MI LR to the wall... Another peice of coral... more cured LR More corals.. so on and so forth until i have my wall built up to the top of the tank... After my wall is complete i will start adding fish and inverts and then later more corals... But when will my tank cycle? Link to comment
jmt Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 Nice. I use Marshall Island exclusively and I love it. Then only bad part about it is that it's kind of hard to ocme by and can cost a good bit. Here's an older pic of my Marshall Island. Since then it has been covered in corraline and re-aquascaped. --Sweet job on the tank BTW. Like someone said earlier, ditch the cheap filter and get something better. Having that thing melt your tank won't be good -Justin Link to comment
The_Barbe-Hatten_Project Posted June 1, 2004 Author Share Posted June 1, 2004 Buddah: Thank you very much for clarifying what is acctually happening as the LR cures... All i knew was that the uncured LR brought on an ammonia spike... Cool... check out my plan for "AQUASCAPING" my tank and let me know what you think about that comment at the end on cycling... Link to comment
The_Barbe-Hatten_Project Posted June 1, 2004 Author Share Posted June 1, 2004 LEN aka ''Nanite'': Yeah i used ACAD for the exploded view, but i have posted several more 3D pics since then... check them out... especially the ones reguarding the moonlights... i'm especially proud of the way they turned out... Link to comment
The_Barbe-Hatten_Project Posted June 1, 2004 Author Share Posted June 1, 2004 Justin: I feel the love for the MI, but i'm especially thankful for your comment on the heater... i wasn't sure what that guy meant before, but u cleared it up.. i won't lose the heater, but i'm going to take precautions to prevent it from coming close to the acrylic... probably a clip with a suction cup... thanks for the compliment aswell!!! post a pic of your current tank if you like... Link to comment
Nanite Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 Originally posted by The_Barbe-Hatten_Project LEN aka ''Nanite'': Yeah i used ACAD for the exploded view, but i have posted several more 3D pics since then... check them out... especially the ones reguarding the moonlights... i'm especially proud of the way they turned out... Hi... Here's a thread to what my tank looks like, this is the one that i'll be getting and also the lights that i will be using.. http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread...&threadid=32169 Regards from Len Link to comment
jmt Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 Well, it could also malfunction and boil your water -- killing everything in your tank. I'm not saying it will, but I have had bad luck with cheap heaters back in my freshwater days. I currently use an Ebo Jager that I got off eBay for $15 shipped. I like it, and would suggest it to you. -Justin PS- I'll post a pic of the current MI LR later. Link to comment
The_Barbe-Hatten_Project Posted June 1, 2004 Author Share Posted June 1, 2004 That's what i had before... well SH*T.. i guess i'll buy another heater... Thanks LEN Link to comment
The_Barbe-Hatten_Project Posted June 1, 2004 Author Share Posted June 1, 2004 Comments on the when to cycle my tank anyone? Link to comment
Nanite Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 Originally posted by The_Barbe-Hatten_Project That's what i had before... well SH*T.. i guess i'll buy another heater... Thanks LEN Hi... Oh right, I have a Prizm deluxe skimmer that i'll be using on that tank, as well as a Calcium Reactor, I'm still looking for a pondmaster 1000 pump for the reactor. Regards from Len. Link to comment
The_Barbe-Hatten_Project Posted June 1, 2004 Author Share Posted June 1, 2004 What kind of calc-reactor?... How big is it?...(demension wise) Link to comment
The_Barbe-Hatten_Project Posted June 1, 2004 Author Share Posted June 1, 2004 I lost the heater guys... tank temp stayed at about 78 over night.. i don't think i'll even need a heater after i get that third pump in there... Link to comment
revance Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 I noticed you are using one of those stick on thermometers... I just thought I would point out that they are very inaccurate. Especially on acrylic! Acrylic does an excellent job insulating, so those thermometers (which don't work particularly well on glass) work even less. Given the amount of money you have spent on the tank (and the whole lot of money you will spend on livestock) I would spend the $5 on a good glass thermometer... you can even put it in the sump where you won't see it. Link to comment
The_Barbe-Hatten_Project Posted June 1, 2004 Author Share Posted June 1, 2004 Yeah i know exactly what you mean.. the store i was at, just didn't have any with the suction cup in-stock... i will pick one up soon... Thanks BTW!!! Link to comment
jmt Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 Screw a glass thermometer... that's just another thing to break and destroy your tank. If you want a theremometer, go get a digital w/ a temp probe. They run about $20. -Justin PS: Updated tank pic: Link to comment
The_Barbe-Hatten_Project Posted June 1, 2004 Author Share Posted June 1, 2004 i'm not going to have to work too much about it... not untill i get fish... Link to comment
The_Barbe-Hatten_Project Posted June 1, 2004 Author Share Posted June 1, 2004 I MADE MY SPRAY BAR!!! it works great... very simple too... I cut a 17" peice of 1/2'' CPVC Added an end cap and a 90 degree elbow... Link to comment
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