Polarcollision Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Well I don't think it was chemical poisoning - even though the apartment got sprayed as I think everyone would be effected. I don't think warfare due to the amount of carbon I run. I don't think pests even though I found a couple nudii. The only thing I can think of that could cause all my sps -monti, poci, stylo, acro. Along with both of my clams and 4 maxi minis to just whither away in a matter of days is some type of bacteria? I mean I haven't lost any fish, lps all look normal, my big h.crispa is perfectly dandy. What makes me think even more so that it may be bacterial isI did close to 200gallons in water changes over a ccouple days and started running my uv sterilizer. Everything was fine for a few days. Then right back to it now 2 of my last 4 colonies of sps are wilted away. I really don't know what else to do When you reach the point that you're ready to risk potentially nuking the rest of your tank, you can use peroxide to kill bacteria. Come to think of it, if you're going to toss a colony, try dipping the RTN portion in peroxide until you get tons of bubbles (sparing the uninfected tissue). Just make sure you're willing to lose the whole thing before trying it in case the peroxide is too much for the coral and helps it along. Link to comment
Deckoz2302 Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 When you reach the point that you're ready to risk potentially nuking the rest of your tank, you can use peroxide to kill bacteria. Come to think of it, if you're going to toss a colony, try dipping the RTN portion in peroxide until you get tons of bubbles (sparing the uninfected tissue). Just make sure you're willing to lose the whole thing before trying it in case the peroxide is too much for the coral and helps it along. The problem I think is the tank. I could dip in peroxide, but at the same time iodine should sterilize as well. I could do this but I feel like its something growing in the tank. But at the same time I don't think I could risk nuking the tank, let alone using h2o2 in the tank with an anemone. I dunno man. Im just kinda at the point where ive come to terms with the fact I lost all my sps, clams and maxis..but im not willing to rock the boat enough to potentially harm other livestock. There has to be a reason why the other live stock isn't affected... Link to comment
MedRed Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 I feel really bad for you. With my crash, it was frustrating because it was a simple equipment failure. I was able to fix the problem day one and just had to work on getting parameters back to normal. I can't imagine losing corals and not knowing why. I'd probably have given up. Link to comment
Deckoz2302 Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 I feel really bad for you. With my crash, it was frustrating because it was a simple equipment failure. I was able to fix the problem day one and just had to work on getting parameters back to normal. I can't imagine losing corals and not knowing why. I'd probably have given up. Thats kinda how I feel. Like giving up but I can't. If all else ill just not be buying coral for a long long while Link to comment
FishDooD65 Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Sorry about all your issues with livestock, but you can always setup a smaller holding tank, get it cycled, and move your livestock over temporarily. Then you nuke your existing tank, disinfect, clean, and restart it back up. Onced its cycled, reintroduce your livestock... problem fixed sooner than expected...i would think. just trying to help you out from what i would do. Link to comment
Deckoz2302 Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Sorry about all your issues with livestock, but you can always setup a smaller holding tank, get it cycled, and move your livestock over temporarily. Then you nuke your existing tank, disinfect, clean, and restart it back up. Onced its cycled, reintroduce your livestock... problem fixed sooner than expected...i would think. just trying to help you out from what i would do. Im more so confused about how I would sterilize the remaining corals before transferring them into quarantine. Also what to nuke the tank with? Complete tear down and muriatic acid? Or OD the tank with ozone essentially killing everything.... Link to comment
Reefmaster1996 Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Try the dr tim stuff with sps tester frags then when all else fails total tank rebuild. Link to comment
FishDooD65 Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Yeah I second the dr tims stuff but I would sterilize your tank with bleach and hose water, just make sure you clean your tank after a good fresh water rinse. Link to comment
MedRed Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Im more so confused about how I would sterilize the remaining corals before transferring them into quarantine. Also what to nuke the tank with? Complete tear down and muriatic acid? Or OD the tank with ozone essentially killing everything.... Any LPS and softies you can dip in a hyrdogen peroxide solution. You could dip your acros in Bayer Home Pest and Germ Control. Link to comment
mpsti05 Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Fish and eel and everyone is ok though? Link to comment
BattleAthletics Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Only tryna help. Water can be tested for full composition. Run it through a gc and see what spikes. Like reefmaster said you have nothing else to lose after you've lost it all. Link to comment
Deckoz2302 Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 Any LPS and softies you can dip in a hyrdogen peroxide solution. You could dip your acros in Bayer Home Pest and Germ Control.Thanks medFish and eel and everyone is ok though?Yea fish, softies, lps and nem are all fine. I think i might break down the tank and build a new stand Only tryna help. Water can be tested for full composition. Run it through a gc and see what spikes. Like reefmaster said you have nothing else to lose after you've lost it all.Yea I know BA, who has a gc? I hope I don't loose it all lol Link to comment
BattleAthletics Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 .... You forget your local waterplant has everything to treat and cure? Well for the most part. Link to comment
Deckoz2302 Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 .... You forget your local waterplant has everything to treat and cure? Well for the most part.I feel...retarded. so so so very stupid. You convinced me to call. My side of the city is treated with chloramines instead of chlorine. I researched this when I moved here and this wasn't the case. North east Wake county changed water treatment in January. God...im an idiot Battle thanks. Really, Thank you My question is now do I break down the tank or run catalytic carbon on the tank to break down the chrloramines into ammonia. Obviously one of my rodi stages need to be changed to catalytic carbon to break the covalent bond so the ro membrane and di resin can remove it. But what do I do about the tank. How should I go about this. If I do another 100% water change with chloramine free water then run catalytic carbon that should minimize the amount of free chrloramines minimizing the ammonia spike once the catalytic carbon is added so hopefully I don't actually crash the tank? Or should I setup a quarantine and move all livestock then add a couple liters of catalytic to induce a cycle to kill anything and everything in the tank? Link to comment
jgpico Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Wait, did you just figure out what could be going on? You're rodi isn't filtering out the correct stuff because you have a chlorine filter instead of a chloramine filter? Link to comment
Deckoz2302 Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 Wait, did you just figure out what could be going on? You're rodi isn't filtering out the correct stuff because you have a chlorine filter instead of a chloramphenicol filter? My rodi is has a standard activated carbon prefilter, activated carbon isnt agressive enough with the short contact time to break down chloramines into ammonia, nitrogen gas and chlorine which are easily removed by ro membrane and di resin. Catalytic carbon is used in place of activated carbon as it is highly agressive and will break covalent bonds of chloramines by stealing electrons. Without breaking chloramines down they can pass through the ro membrane and di resin. So basically my water source changed and I didn't know it so I've been slowly poisoning my tank for 6 months. Which explains why most of my old coral is fine and the new coral isn't. Because the ols coral has been slowly being poisoned over the course of 6 months where the new coral was basically thrown into a high concentration of poison. Im incredibly sad, this is my fault. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Your DI resin would absorb chloramines. As long as you're still outputting 0 TDS, the water won't have chloramine in it. Your DI resin life will suck knobs, though. Link to comment
Chris L Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-11/rhf/feature/ Link to comment
RollaJase Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 I'm really sorry about all the issues you have been having, I was loving where this tank was going. At least you have figured out what the probable culprit was. Link to comment
Deckoz2302 Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 Your DI resin would absorb chloramines. As long as you're still outputting 0 TDS, the water won't have chloramine in it. Your DI resin life will suck knobs, though. Its passing through I just went to the pool store and grabbed a total chlorine test kit. Rodi water that is coming out 0tds measured at 0.3ppm, tank is 0.1-0.2ish ppm :/. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Its passing through I just went to the pool store and grabbed a total chlorine test kit. Rodi water that is coming out 0tds measured at 0.3ppm, tank is 0.1-0.2ish ppm :/. According to AZdesertrat, RO/DI water with super low TDS is very difficult to test for impurities and can give false positives, takes special kits in most cases. Link to comment
Deckoz2302 Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 According to AZdesertrat, RO/DI water with super low TDS is very difficult to test for impurities and can give false positives, takes special kits in most cases. Then how come the distilled gallon from the grocery store tests 0? But the 0tds rodi tests 0.3? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Then how come the distilled gallon from the grocery store tests 0? But the 0tds rodi tests 0.3? I'm not the one to ask that question to lol. I'm just repeating that info. Link to comment
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