raidendex Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 Finished gluing my new tanning bed together Link to comment
RollaJase Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 I have been toying with the idea of building my own fixture for a while now to go over my 30g cube (18" deep) and this is what I have come up with as a first attempt. (Second Picture) 10x 10000k white 9x 4500k white 13x Royal Blue 2x Actinic Violet (420nm) 2x Red 2x Green (38 total) Or (First Picture) 10x 10000k white 10x 4500k white 10x Royal Blue 4x Actinic Violet (420nm) 2x Red 2x Green (38 total) 60 degree optics on all except the exotics. I'm still not sure whether to use 80degree optics on the exotics or nothing at all. I'll also be adding a moonlight module to the fixture. What do you think of the combinations and the layouts? Which one would give the better colour/spectrum? I'm leaning towards the second layout myself. I'm not a fan of the 50/50 RB and 10000k mix, too 'clinical' for my tastes. I have a PAR38 bulb that is 4x RB, 4x CW, 4x WW and I really love the colour it produces and I'm trying to recreate that here. I'm really after something that looks warmer in our spectrum while still providing good growth and the ability to grow SPS. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 Don't use Aquastyle is my first advice to you. Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 Finished gluing my new tanning bed together That is going to look intense. Link to comment
raidendex Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 That is going to look intense. Send drivers so it can! Link to comment
RollaJase Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 Don't use Aquastyle is my first advice to you. I Have looked at both Aquastyle and LED Group Buy. I have used Cree, Epistar, and Bridgelux before for smaller household projects and I have to say I am indifferent on their quality. All have done what I have asked them to do and I have actually lost more Cree LEDs then anything else. I am drawn to Aquastyle because of the simple kit purchase and the intentional shipping of the heatsinks but right now I'm just trying to get the spectrum right. I'd like to try and avoid the 3up LEDs purely out of preference and ease of replacement for me, hence why then aren't on my diagrams. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 I don't like 3up stars, either, but the performance and quality difference between high output LEDs like Cree, Luxeon, and Bridgelux is vast vs the fake Bridgelux and whatnot that Aquastyle sells. Link to comment
javisaman Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Can anyone recommend optics for the 60 cube design. I'm looking to build one soon for a SPS dominated tank. I'm confused if I should go with no optics or 40 optics for the 3-up, 60 for the HV, and 60 for the OC?Thanks. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 I wouldn't do 40 degree optics on your main LEDs unless you're hanging it higher than normal, 40 degree are very tight. Link to comment
javisaman Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Yea, I figured, but they are the only optics available for the 3-ups. I'm thinking I might have to forgo them at this stage so that I can use 60 degree all the way around. Link to comment
AlanM Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 I am going without 3-ups and am using all 60 degree lenses on LEDGroupBuy solderless chips about 15 inches above the water surface (so 30 inches from sandbed). Here's the layout for my 75 gallon that I have settled on and am getting ready to start screwing them down. There will be 3 of these across the 48 inch tank centered at 8 inches, 24 inches. 40 inches. By the way, you can get printable hexagonal graph paper at www.printablepaper.net. Link to comment
javisaman Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 I wouldn't do 40 degree optics on your main LEDs unless you're hanging it higher than normal, 40 degree are very tight. Hmm, I'm going 60 degree all the way around 51 LEDs in total for my 24 x 24 x 24 tank. I already placed the order, but I think there is still an opportunity for me to cancel if need be. The fixture will be at least 12" above the water line and it'll be SPS dominated. But as I'm reading it seems current convention is to leave out optics entirely, guess I haven't been in the LED scene for a while. Should I stick with what I have? Or reorder with looser optics? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 Hmm, I'm going 60 degree all the way around 51 LEDs in total for my 24 x 24 x 24 tank. I already placed the order, but I think there is still an opportunity for me to cancel if need be. The fixture will be at least 12" above the water line and it'll be SPS dominated. But as I'm reading it seems current convention is to leave out optics entirely, guess I haven't been in the LED scene for a while. Should I stick with what I have? Or reorder with looser optics? 51 LEDs is a lot lol. How many of each did you get? Link to comment
javisaman Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 24 RB, 12 NW, 9 OCW, 6 TV Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 I would recommend not doing that much, at all. Keep in mind the OCW is for coloration and consists of three separate LEDs. 8x NW, 16x RB, 4x CB, 4x OCW, and 8-16x HV are what I'd recommend AT MOST and that's for a tank dominated by shallow Acropora species that are used to getting high amounts of light. I'd personally do 6x NW, 12x RB, 3x CB, 4x OCW, 6-12x HV. Any more than that is going to make you dim them down to keep from frying stuff, especially with optics. 80 degree optics on the main LEDs (NW, RB, CB), no optics on the OCW, and 60 degree on the HV. Link to comment
javisaman Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 I've requested a change of my order per your suggestions. Strange thing is that I run 20RB, 6NW, 4CW, 6 TV without optics on my 20 gallon long right now. At peak they will go up the RBs will go up to 900mA, N/CW will go to 600mA, and the TVs will go to 500mA. I haven't had any severe bleaching issues once everything has been acclimated. I just assumed my 60 cube would need more light and optics to account for twice the depth. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 That is without optics. I purchased an Apogee PAR sensor recently and was rather surprised at my PAR readings without optics. I put 60 degree optics on a few of the LEDs that are not 3ups and there was a dramatic increase in PAR. Link to comment
m28cruiser Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Hi jedimasterben – I planning to redo the LEDs on my 72g bow front. What is the current LED color recommendation for full spectrum and what mounting layout should I go with? The tank dimensions are: 48 L x 12 -18 W x 22 H For LEDS I want to go with XT-E and use the 250w 5.2A power supply with LLDs from LEDGroupBuy. RB - 30 NW - 16 HV - 16 OCW - 6 CB - 4 Is that too many LEDs? Do you think 2 x 18” MakersLED Designer Heatsink are too small for this build? Thanks! Link to comment
overhal Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Any tips on using the 7.5g one with Luxeon M's ? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 A single M at 1000ma is equivalent to a fuzz over four XT-E or Rebel ES at 1000ma. Link to comment
overhal Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 A single M at 1000ma is equivalent to a fuzz over four XT-E or Rebel ES at 1000ma. So for a 7.5g cube, would this build work? 2 x Luxeon M - Royal Blue 3 x Luxeon ES - Neutral White 3 x True Violet 1 x OCW I would do something like this: Link to comment
raidendex Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Tanning bed ON. http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/29/img_4932.jpg'> Got drivers today. Still lots to do, but getting there. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Tanning bed ON. Got drivers today. Still lots to do, but getting there. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 So for a 7.5g cube, would this build work? 2 x Luxeon M - Royal Blue 3 x Luxeon ES - Neutral White 3 x True Violet 1 x OCW I would do something like this: looks good to me. Link to comment
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