soutzee Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Wow first of all let me thank you for the wonderful information posted. So far I understand the colors, my question is how big do I need the heat sink to be and how apart should the clusters be for a 20Gallon Long Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Good rule of thumb is to have the ends of the LEDs be half the tank depth (from front to back) away from each side. For instance, if a tank is a 40 breeder, 36"x18", the first cluster should start at 9" from the left, and the last cluster should end at 27" from the left. Link to comment
soutzee Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 so if the 20g long is 30 x 13 then i would start from the left 6.5" and end at 23.5'' so i should build a heatsink 17 inches long and is 5 inches wide enough? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 so if the 20g long is 30 x 13 then i would start from the left 6.5" and end at 23.5'' so i should build a heatsink 17 inches long and is 5 inches wide enough? Yes. Ideally, the LEDs would spread out about 2/3 of the depth of the tank, but if you're not using optics, that really helps out. Link to comment
zemuss Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Are the OCW's worth it? Would this replace the Deep Red's and Cyan that I was going to purchase? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 OCW has deep red, cool blue, and cyan on one star. Use about 4 per 24"x24" area, and I'd do some more cool blue on top of that. Link to comment
soutzee Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 Yes. Ideally, the LEDs would spread out about 2/3 of the depth of the tank, but if you're not using optics, that really helps out. i was gonna order teh 80 degrees optic since they come with the led kit already, so its best if i dont use them? another questions the OCW are rated to run max at 500ma, and the rest of the leds are rated to run max a t 700ma would i need a different driver for the OCW or can i hook them up to the others? as i was planning 12 leds on one driver and 12 on the other? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 I always say to run as much separately as you can. Link to comment
soutzee Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 I always say to run as much separately as you but arent drivers inefficient when packed with less than 8 leds? i ask since they say that they hold 8 -14 leds or something like that. sorry for the ignorance in the matter not so good with learning this stuff apparently Link to comment
zemuss Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Ok so for a 20X20 tank where should I start? I am thinking a 12 inch heat sink would be enough for me? Link to comment
ner'T' Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Ok so for a 20X20 tank where should I start? I am thinking a 12 inch heat sink would be enough for me?+1 I have 20" cube, so far I have a 20" heatsink, 12xRB, 8x XM-L NW, 2 x Blue , 6 x UV, 2x Red. 80 degree optics. 3 drivers . Have no idea what machine the heatsink down to. Also have no clue on LED mix and layout... Link to comment
Stephen73ta Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 What do you guys think of this setup? The heatsink is 14"x16" 12 royal blue 6 blue 10 White 6 True Violet 4 red 4 turquoise 43 Total Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Gonna be pretty white. Link to comment
Stephen73ta Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 How so? Blues are just about 2:1 to whites. 14 light vs 27 dark colored LEDs. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 I think you may want to do a bit more reading up on LEDs. You have 10 "white" and 12 royal blue. I don't know what kind of 'white' LEDs those are. The cool blue will help, since our eyes can see cool blue very well, but unfortunately, our eyes will also lump the cool blue together with the deep red and cyan/turquoise and appear white (since our cone receptors see red, green, and blue), and they can be distractingly white. You'll want to start with a base ratio of 1:2:0.75 of neutral white to royal blue to cool blue. That'll net you a 14K-ish color off the bat without adjust any amperages, you don't need anything else for great growth and good color. Then add your exotics (deep red, turquoise/cyan) in 4-5x per 24"x24" area if you want to tweak your color (cyan spectrum helps with color rendition and fluorescence of red colors, and red spectrum helps a small bit with color rendition and growth). I would consider adding more violet to your mix, as well, as nothing excites fluorescence better and there is no higher photosynthetic peak than at 430nm. I recommend using a minimum of 1:1 for violet to neutral white, but for my next build I will be using a 1:1 violet to royal blue for maximum photosynthetic action. Link to comment
Stephen73ta Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 I'm sorry I didn't mention that my whites are actually cool whites. Should of been more specific. So you think I should drop a few of the CW and add some more RB? I don't have any NW it this setup, but could easily add some. I followed the full spectrum spreadsheet here http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=304152 Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 I would not use any cool white, IMHO. Link to comment
Stephen73ta Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 arg I'm full of errors today, I'm sorry I meant warm white(4,500k) Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Replacing the light in my sump so that I can keep SPS coral frags down there and not have color loss. It's about 8" x 24" x 8" deep (when pumps running). I was going to do two clusters of the following, set as far apart as I can on a 12" heat sink. (1) Neutral White (2) Royal Blue (1) Hyperviolet I'm trying to keep everything on one 25w driver. I could add one more LED into each cluster, but I'm not sure what color to add without throwing everything off. I like the blue look, so I was considering adding a regular blue. The heatsink is probably going to be rather high above the water, so I'll probably add 60 degree lenses. Any rule of thumbs for picking the optics? Everything is probably coming from LEDgroupbuy If you're gonna add another chip to the clusters, add another hyper violet. Should be great otherwise. As for the optics, how high will it be off the water? It's only 8" deep, right? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 60 degree optics should be fine. Probably get some disco, but it's just a frag rack, so the coral won't care Link to comment
ajmckay Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 What do you guys think of this setup? The heatsink is 14"x16" 12 royal blue 6 blue 10 White 6 True Violet 4 red 4 turquoise 43 Total Figure 01.jpg There's actually 11 whites in that image... Link to comment
Stephen73ta Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Right on, what do you think of the spread? What would you change? I'm going to change 2 of the blues to Royals and probably change 4 whites to Royal too. Link to comment
soutzee Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Hi i need to learn to adjust the driver.(https://www.google.com.pr/search?q=multimeter&hl=en&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=FHQyUY7yNqSU0QGn3oGoCQ&sqi=2&ved=0CDYQsAQ&biw=1366&bih=643#imgrc=u9VGCYGaGlRnEM%3A%3BxT64X1kp0vf3vM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.futurlec.com%252FPictures%252FUT30F_RED.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.futurlec.com%252FMultimeters.shtml%3B250%3B324 )i have been trying to use a driver like this one so i can measure the ma's but cant seem to get anything leds work fine all the connections are good and the dimmers are working. what do i need to measure the ma or anything? Link to comment
BigWave Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 So what's the consensus for a JBJ 28g? I'm looking at the RapidLED heatsink. 6" x 10" pre drilled and tapped for 24 led's. Replace my existing intermediate led setup in the hood. I also wanted to do the solderless version. 6 NW, 12 RB, 6 TV. Wanted to do 4 OCW that would not be screwed down but can't get that in solderless. Suggestions and layout suggestions? Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 Solderless OCW ETA 3 weeks Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.