Full spectrum LED layouts

[uglybuckling]

I was thinking of getting a solderless dimmable RapidLED kit and making something with 9 LEDs and a full spectrum for my 6 gallon Nano Cube.

 

I read through the chart at the beginning of this thread about the full spectrum recommendations based off of tank size. As my NC6 is in between two sizes, AND true violet isn't an option for me (color not available), I wanted to give my idea for the color combo and see what people thought.

 

I was thinking:

4 royal blue

2 neutral white

1 deep red

1 cool blue

1 UV

 

I know some people are on the edge about UV, but it says 410-420nm wavelength, which according to the graphs here, it's still a good wavelength to get...should pretty much nail chlorophyll a, actually. Much better than cyan, green, warm white, and all my other color options at least.

 

These all are the colors offered, btw.

 

I suppose I'm looking for something that would visibly look good and grow multiple types of coral well.

 

 

Anything above 400nm is true violet. Manufacturers are just as prone as hobbyists to incorrectly refer to these as UV. The 400-430nm range is indeed as you have said, critically important. It is, however, most correctly referred to as "true violet."

 

"UV" is marketing hype; it sounds cooler than "violet." True ultraviolet is below 400nm. I don't know of any commercial fixtures with actual uv LEDs in them. Mostly this is because real uv LEDs are very expensive. Like $25 each or more. And they cause skin cancer.

 

 

Tldr: your plan is good. The issue is nomenclature; "ultraviolet" is an often-misused term.

[MR.FEESH]

Anything above 400nm is true violet. Manufacturers are just as prone as hobbyists to incorrectly refer to these as UV. The 400-430nm range is indeed as you have said, critically important. It is, however, most correctly referred to as "true violet."

 

"UV" is marketing hype; it sounds cooler than "violet." True ultraviolet is below 400nm. I don't know of any commercial fixtures with actual uv LEDs in them. Mostly this is because real uv LEDs are very expensive. Like $25 each or more. And they cause skin cancer.

 

 

Tldr: your plan is good. The issue is nomenclature; "ultraviolet" is an often-misused term.

 

Great clarification. I'll not confuse them again!

[Blueseatex]

Im pretty sure im overdoing it and, I need some input on my array. My tank is 24X24X14 cube. This is going to be a full blown sps tank so Keep that in mind.

 

12 xp-g NW

24 xp-e RB

06 xp-e CB

06 OCW

06 TV peak at 405nm

02 TV peak at 430nm

 

My heatsink is 15X9. Here is a pic of my arrays so you can get an idea of where im at. The arrays are not perfectly even yet. Drivers and soldering are going to be a nightmare but I dont want that to limit full coverage. It will be hung 12 to14 inches above the water. I know the 3up would be alot easier but I had the RB, NW, and CB from an earlier array. Im using inventronic drivers. any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

[phasezero]

Im pretty sure im overdoing it and, I need some input on my array. My tank is 24X24X14 cube. This is going to be a full blown sps tank so Keep that in mind.

 

12 xp-g NW

24 xp-e RB

06 xp-e CB

06 OCW

06 TV peak at 405nm

02 TV peak at 430nm

 

My heatsink is 15X9. Here is a pic of my arrays so you can get an idea of where im at. The arrays are not perfectly even yet. Drivers and soldering are going to be a nightmare but I dont want that to limit full coverage. It will be hung 12 to14 inches above the water. I know the 3up would be alot easier but I had the RB, NW, and CB from an earlier array. Im using inventronic drivers. any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

 

I think you color combination is good. My only suggestion is for your layout. Rather than have your OCW's all clustered in the center in 2 places like your picture, I would suggest creating 6 smaller clusters in your layout where each OCW is in the center of each mini cluster. Everything you have can be evenly divided into 6 except your 2 430nm TV's. This way you'll have your reds and turquoise evenly spread about your tank rather than 2 source points.

[jedimasterben]

Im pretty sure im overdoing it and, I need some input on my array. My tank is 24X24X14 cube. This is going to be a full blown sps tank so Keep that in mind.

 

12 xp-g NW

24 xp-e RB

06 xp-e CB

06 OCW

06 TV peak at 405nm

02 TV peak at 430nm

 

My heatsink is 15X9. Here is a pic of my arrays so you can get an idea of where im at. The arrays are not perfectly even yet. Drivers and soldering are going to be a nightmare but I dont want that to limit full coverage. It will be hung 12 to14 inches above the water. I know the 3up would be alot easier but I had the RB, NW, and CB from an earlier array. Im using inventronic drivers. any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

You may think that you'll need that many for a full SPS tank, but you're far overdoing it and will probably kill many corals in doing so without a several-month-long acclimation of each new coral. I'd cut your main LEDs in half, and at the very least use no more than 8x NW and 16x RB.

[Lingwendil]

What would be considered full spectrum ratios for a freshwater planted or a macroalgae tank? I was thinking that 1rb-2nw would be a good baseline ratio. I have a rimless fluval edge 6 gallon, and was thinking 6 nw, 3rb, 1 OCW, and 3 true violet may be good. Light probably 12" above the tank. Im currently doing 3cw and 1 ocw just because i already have the cw salvaged from an old build, but before the tank is done would like something better, cw doesnt let true colors on my rams out.

[Lingwendil]

You may think that you'll need that many for a full SPS tank, but you're far overdoing it and will probably kill many corals in doing so without a several-month-long acclimation of each new coral. I'd cut your main LEDs in half, and at the very least use no more than 8x NW and 16x RB.

I'd cut that whole heatsink in half and setup another tank...

[rO.oster]

Great collaboration of information! Thanks for all the info guys!

[uglybuckling]

Im pretty sure im overdoing it and, I need some input on my array. My tank is 24X24X14 cube. This is going to be a full blown sps tank so Keep that in mind.

 

12 xp-g NW

24 xp-e RB

06 xp-e CB

06 OCW

06 TV peak at 405nm

02 TV peak at 430nm

 

I'm no expert on older Cree LEDs, but some of these are previous-generation and will not be as bright as the current XT-Es.

 

That being said, if Jedi still thinks it's too bright (and noticed the older-model LEDs) then it almost certainly will be. Certainly it uses almost the same number of emitters I suggested (and worried about possibly being overkill) for a 24 inch cube. Your tank is about half that depth; I'd be VERY worried about overkill using that many emitters on a tank that shallow.

 

 

Great collaboration of information! Thanks for all the info guys!

 

This is my 1000th post here, and thank you for the compliment. =)

[jedimasterben]

I'm no expert on older Cree LEDs, but some of these are previous-generation and will not be as bright as the current XT-Es.

 

That being said, if Jedi still thinks it's too bright (and noticed the older-model LEDs) then it almost certainly will be. Certainly it uses almost the same number of emitters I suggested (and worried about possibly being overkill) for a 24 inch cube. Your tank is about half that depth; I'd be VERY worried about overkill using that many emitters on a tank that shallow.

I had misread now that I look back, I thought they were all XT-E - the XP-E royals are about 2/3 the output of the XT-E royals, and XP-G about 90% the output of the XT-E whites, so still too bright IMHO. Glad you pointed that out.

[Blueseatex]

You may think that you'll need that many for a full SPS tank, but you're far overdoing it and will probably kill many corals in doing so without a several-month-long acclimation of each new coral. I'd cut your main LEDs in half, and at the very least use no more than 8x NW and 16x RB.

 

I was figuring it was too much. I'm a little confused on cutting the main LEDs in half. Are you meaning the nw and rb? I didn't want a single array for fear of the edges of the tank not getting enough par. The ocw recommend 4 to 6 per 24 x 24 area. From what I'm getting from that the number of ocw and tv are ok?

[Lingwendil]

So, i just was wondering where to get true violet, deep red, cool blue, and cyan bare LED's unmounted, i have a silly idea of making a 6-up "exotic" board, using these ebay pcb's.

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

any ideas? Milad....

[MeepNand]

Was going to do that myself, but it turns out you have to reflow solder and do special stuff to get the led on there and not burn out.

[Lingwendil]

Was going to do that myself, but it turns out you have to reflow solder and do special stuff to get the led on there and not burn out.

I can reflow solder, I have access to a reflow oven, and have done smd before. I've swapped LED's on an AI Sol puck, not too big of a deal. i figure since i'll be clustering around the OCW board anyway, may as well throw 'em all on one board.

[MeepNand]

Ok, then I don't know. Ask jedi and friends.

[uglybuckling]

Knowing full well that reflow soldering isn't that bad (I've seen it done numerous times), I still have no wish to mess with that.

 

However, I would imagine that all it'd take would be an e-mail to one of the LED suppliers who does their own reflow work (I know of one for certain; I think I probably know of two). They'd likely be able to send you unmounted LEDs and knock the price of the star off the cost.

[jedimasterben]

What would be considered full spectrum ratios for a freshwater planted or a macroalgae tank? I was thinking that 1rb-2nw would be a good baseline ratio. I have a rimless fluval edge 6 gallon, and was thinking 6 nw, 3rb, 1 OCW, and 3 true violet may be good. Light probably 12" above the tank. Im currently doing 3cw and 1 ocw just because i already have the cw salvaged from an old build, but before the tank is done would like something better, cw doesnt let true colors on my rams out.

I'm honestly not sure. Those types of plants will have chlorophyll b, so they will use a lot more 450-460nm, as well as 660nm. My plan for my FW tank was to use 2700k Rebels in a 2:1:1 ratio with royal blue and cool blue and see where that got me, as I don't have any of those LEDs to spare to test out.

 

So, i just was wondering where to get true violet, deep red, cool blue, and cyan bare LED's unmounted, i have a silly idea of making a 6-up "exotic" board, using these ebay pcb's.

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

any ideas? Milad....

Only problem then is that you've got a lot more LEDs that you now have to run in series, and driving several of them will be an issue as there are not many super-high-voltage drivers out there.

[Lingwendil]

I was going to use meanwell ldd or diy mosfet, one drive per puck.

[WildOceans]

I wonder if 'one' of the 10g layouts for my 9"x9"x9" cube pico would be overkill.

[Jacob042426]

my science teacher is doing a ten gallon, and i told her id build her a light. i want to order everything from steve's and use a tube heatsink. its only going to be softies, so i think the 10 gallon layout will be overkill for her.

 

 

oh, and do the bridgelux 950b's need the holder mount?

[uglybuckling]

my science teacher is doing a ten gallon, and i told her id build her a light. i want to order everything from steve's and use a tube heatsink. its only going to be softies, so i think the 10 gallon layout will be overkill for her.

 

 

oh, and do the bridgelux 950b's need the holder mount?

 

The holder allows for (1) easy wire mounting, although you can just solder directly to the chip, and

(2) mounting of the optics, which would, in the absence of the holder, be kind of tricky. I think.

 

Let me put it this way, I think you could be okay without them but I was glad I had them when I built mine.

 

I'll answer the two questions about 10g tanks after while; I have to go eat first or there's going to be a low blood sugar party and my poor brain will be the guest of honor.

[Tampico96]

Can I get some advise and guidance on the the build I'm planning?

 

Its going over a 65 gallon (36x18x24tall). When I had it set up in the past, it was 2x 250 ushio 14000k fixture. This time I want to go LED lit. This setup is going to be a untried (by me) test tank, including a ATS and possibly no skimmer. Dont mind carpet. Its getting hardwood, after tank stand is built and painted.

 

 

I did not find this thread until I already start on my layout, but I think I am close to the posted spreadsheet. I think I am just short on the violet. Its going to be hung on 2 12inch MakersLED heat sinks. I want to run everything in series and plan on using BJB connectors for everything but the OCWs. Have to solder them I guess. I do have a question. Suggestions on drivers for the 8 OCWs? Do I need 2 more meanwells for them? I have a Reef Angel controller ordered for this setup so I want as much controll over the leds I can get.

 

 

Can I get some advise and guidance on the the build I'm planning?

 

Its going over a 65 gallon (36x18x24tall). When I had it set up in the past, it was 2x 250 ushio 14000k fixture. This time I want to go LED lit. This setup is going to be a untried (by me) test tank, including a ATS and possibly no skimmer. Dont mind carpet. Its getting hardwood, after tank stand is built and painted.

 

 

I did not find this thread until I already start on my layout, but I think I am close to the posted spreadsheet. I think I am just short on the violet. Its going to be hung on 2 12inch MakersLED heat sinks. I want to run everything in series and plan on using BJB connectors for everything but the OCWs. Have to solder them I guess. I do have a question. Suggestions on drivers for the 8 OCWs? Do I need 2 more meanwells for them? I have a Reef Angel controller ordered for this setup so I want as much controll over the leds I can get.

 

 

 

Also, 80 or 60 optics? want to keep it 6 inches off water or more.

[Todd2212]

Hey guys, need a little advise before I purchase LED's.

Tank is going to be a 20g long.

12 RB Cree XT-e (@ 1500ma)

6 NW Cree XT-e (@ 1500 ma)

6 TV Exotic (@ 500 ma)

3 OCW (@500 ma)

 

I was going to use a 3 cluster groups - 4 RB, 2 NW, 2 TV, 1 OCW (as shown in fig. 3) On 3 Drivers (1 for RB, 1for NW, 1 for TV and OCW)

 

Going to mount them on 24" MakersLED heatsink. About 6" off the top of tank (no optics).

 

My questions are:

1). Would 3ups be better than individuals for the RB's and NW's?

2). What driver would be best for the RB's and NW's? Would I need a diver to run them at the full 1500ma?

thanks

[uglybuckling]

Suggestions on drivers for the 8 OCWs?

 

I use a couple Meanwells to drive mine. There are cheaper drivers out there, but for my level of skill with electronics, I prefer to get the whole driver and power supply as one package (a la Meanwell ELN or Inventronics drivers).

 

Certainly others will likely advise otherwise. I don't think that separate drivers and power supplies are very difficult to use. I just don't have much experience with them and as such am not able to advise well on them.

 

 

 

Also, 80 or 60 optics? want to keep it 6 inches off water or more.

 

Usually I'd say "no optics at all if you're less than a foot from the water surface," but given the 24 inch tank height and the fact that you do want to be above the surface, I might go for 80 degree optics on this build.

[uglybuckling]

My questions are:

1). Would 3ups be better than individuals for the RB's and NW's?

2). What driver would be best for the RB's and NW's? Would I need a diver to run them at the full 1500ma?

thanks

 

1) 3ups are better for mixing colors if (1) you're willing and able to solder to their slightly-smaller solder points, and (2) you're willing to accept that heat will limit you to running them at 700mA. Which I'm guessing by the earlier part of your post, you are not. So maybe go with individual LEDs if you want to run at 1500mA.

 

2) Yes, the driver would have to be capable of supplying 1500mA. There are numerous drivers that can do this, from both Inventronics and Meanwell (as well as probably some other brands). A lot of Inventronics drivers only go up to 700mA and the "standard" Meanwell ELN-60-48s go up to 1300mA (which btw is plenty). If you really want to go for the full 1500, you will indeed have to look for drivers that will go that high--they shouldn't be too hard to find, though.