reefernanoman Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 I just ordered a solder-less retro kit for my 28g nanocube from rapid led with 10 whites and 10 blues, but now I came here and found out that might not be a good idea. The heat-sink is rectangular, so I sent them an email to see if I can switch out some of the led's for some other colors.What do you guys suggest? thanks. Info on the heat-sink: 5.9" x 10" Heatsink drilled/tapped for 24 LEDs and 4 installation holes (you'll only use 20 of the 24 holes, please see instructions for details) Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 Their XT-E are the on crappier side of things as far as color, even their neutral whites. Normally a 2:4:1 ratio of neutral white to royal blue to blue would be sufficient, but I would swap out some neutral white for WARM white. Link to comment
reefernanoman Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 Their XT-E are the on crappier side of things as far as color, even their neutral whites. Normally a 2:4:1 ratio of neutral white to royal blue to blue would be sufficient, but I would swap out some neutral white for WARM white. So, instead of getting 10 whites, I would get two blues for every one white?or is it 2 whites for every 1 blue? I think it's the latter. What do you suggest on the placement of these LED's? thanks again. Link to comment
Paleoreef103 Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 So, instead of getting 10 whites, I would get two blues for every one white?or is it 2 whites for every 1 blue? I think it's the latter. What do you suggest on the placement of these LED's? thanks again. For 20 LEDs get 4 NW: 2 WW: 10 RB: 4 Blues. The ratios don't line up perfectly for a 20 LED block. Adding some violets is a good idea as well. Link to comment
reefernanoman Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 For 20 LEDs get 4 NW: 2 WW: 10 RB: 4 Blues. The ratios don't line up perfectly for a 20 LED block. Adding some violets is a good idea as well. I went ahead and ordered 4NW 2WW 10RB 4BLUES . How would you place them on my 20 LED block? thanks again. Link to comment
reefernanoman Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Excuse my horrible writing but what do you guys think of this layout for my retro kit from rapid led? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Don't space them out or you'll have spotlighting. Link to comment
reefernanoman Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Don't space them out or you'll have spotlighting. I wish I would have known about this, since I ordered the predrilled heatsink and the illustration that they have there seems to have the LED's spaced out. Bummer. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Yeah, that's how it was like three years ago, and it stuck - people have since realized that all the spotlighting is caused by them being spaced out. You can still keep them clustered together, just use thermal adhesive instead of the holes. Link to comment
reefernanoman Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Yeah, that's how it was like three years ago, and it stuck - people have since realized that all the spotlighting is caused by them being spaced out. You can still keep them clustered together, just use thermal adhesive instead of the holes. Thermal adhesive is the thermal grease? I think it's something else. Could I make this work with only 20 LED's if I put them closer together, or would I have to buy more LED's and another driver? I only have two drivers right now. I'm asking this since the heatsink is 5x9inch x 10inch. I guess I can try it and see what it looks like. But once I apply thermal adhesive I have been told that the placement is permanent. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 No, thermal paste (grease) is not an adhesive. A single LED will light a BC29 with good coverage - the spread of the LEDs you don't have to worry about, especially with having twenty of them. Thermal adhesive is not permanent. They pop off with very little force applied (just twist the LED star) and the adhesive scrapes off with ease. Link to comment
reefernanoman Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 No, thermal paste (grease) is not an adhesive. A single LED will light a BC29 with good coverage - the spread of the LEDs you don't have to worry about, especially with having twenty of them. Thermal adhesive is not permanent. They pop off with very little force applied (just twist the LED star) and the adhesive scrapes off with ease. Cool thanks for the advice. Does it matter that the LED'S that I'm going to use have no optics if I want to use the predrilled holes? Or would I still get the spot effects? Link to comment
MeepNand Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Optics contribute to spotlighting, but still keep them close together. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Cool thanks for the advice. Does it matter that the LED'S that I'm going to use have no optics if I want to use the predrilled holes? Or would I still get the spot effects? Definitely do not want to use optics at all if you're keeping it in the hood. Link to comment
NirvanaandTool Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 How would you guys recommend modifying this layout for a 90g in a similar color range as these full spectrum builds? Its a build I made for my 40B - in a kind of DIY AI Sol type pattern. I modeled it off of some builds I saw on here when I was working on that tank. It has 22 Cree XPE RB, 2 XPE B, 12 XPG NW (+2 UV that I burnt out and never replaced). Its on a 30"x5.886" heatsink. I'm upgrading the tank to a 90G and want to reuse these LEDs in some way, shape or form. I plan on keeping both a mix of coral (mostly lps and zoas with some sps thrown in here and there) and some macroalgae. I figure I have to add at least 12 if not more LEDs. I've got 60Deg optics that I never put on. I figure I'm going to have to do some modifying to get around the center brace of the 90 at least. Maybe move the two center rows to the sides and cluster some OCW and TV around them on a new driver? Thoughts? Ideas? Thanks for the help! Edit: After reading through this thread again I came up with the idea to get 2 more Meanwell ELN-60-48Ps (or 30-48Ps if I can find them) for 6 OCWs, 5 HV & 5 TV @ 500mA. I still have some room leftover on my 3 existing 60-48Ps so I can get another 4 RB & 2 NW as well for some extra light. Then I just need to play around with the layout I guess but the # of LEDs seems ok to me. Link to comment
reefernanoman Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 I just finished putting everything together but I'm having trouble putting my multimeter like a LED in my string(sloderless) to adjust the SVR2. As an alternative, can you adjust the SRV2 without the driver being connected to the driver like this? (MEANWELL ELN-60-48D) Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 The driver will not power on without a load. Easiest way is to just clip and strip one of the wires, hook the multimeter leads in, test it, then reconnect that wire or run a new wire. Link to comment
reefernanoman Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 The driver will not power on without a load. Easiest way is to just clip and strip one of the wires, hook the multimeter leads in, test it, then reconnect that wire or run a new wire. But the driver did power up this way and was able to measure current . Maybe because it's connected to the dimmer swtich? Clip and strip one of the wires? wich one? the positive or the negative? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 either one. Just make sure you put the leads of the multimeter on correctly, just like you would an LED. Link to comment
reefernanoman Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 either one. Just make sure you put the leads of the multimeter on correctly, just like you would an LED. But if the driver turned on the way I did it, would it matter? I was able to adjust it to 850ma Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 Then just leave it be. Not sure how you got the driver to power without a load. Link to comment
farkwar Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 Ben, I notice in your Shallows pics that you have the maxspect blue/white disco'ing going on. Do you have optics on those LEDs or are they bare? Link to comment
farkwar Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 Edit: After reading through this thread again I came up with the idea to get 2 more Meanwell ELN-60-48Ps (or 30-48Ps if I can find them) for 6 OCWs, 5 HV & 5 TV @ 500mA. Those are 1300mA power supplies. Lot of extra waste for running at 500. I sent an email to the tech at ledgroupbuy if I could run two parallel strings at 650 off one and he replied that they would vary wildly on the current. Essentially, I took it as don't do it. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 Ben, I notice in your Shallows pics that you have the maxspect blue/white disco'ing going on. Do you have optics on those LEDs or are they bare? Which ones? The new array or the old one? All LEDs have that, it's not just one fixture. You need to have a diffuser sheet between the LEDs to get rid of that, but unfortunately they also brings intensity down. Link to comment
farkwar Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 This one The blue white speckling on the sand and rock is what im referring to. My fixture is still on my work desk. Im trying to decide if I want to add a violet string or two or just buy a commercial fixture at this point. It hasn't even gotten over water yet, and won't if it looks like this, no offense. I'm already into this over $200, a violet channel will add another $100+ plus 80 for the ALC or comparable, I can buy a new self contained light for that. Diffusing should not be a problem if thats what it needs, I was hoping with the bare 120 degree "optics" there would be enough color blending to avoid this. Reason for the question, are these lights bare or do they have lenses?? If they are bare and still have disco I think I'm just going to scrap my DIY project, for all the advantages of doing DIY are vapor for me then 1 Link to comment
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