atoll Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 I have just installed a 4" 400 micron filter bag on my sump entry pipe. I have used this coarser bag ( previous one is 200 microns) as I have put carbon in it. The carbon should last approx a month and I don't want to be having to clean the bag with it in every few days. On the yellowing of water without using a skimmer even with a skimmer the water is often not as clear as it could be and the water can still be slightly hazy. This is where my Oxydator comes in as it will neutralize many of those compounds that cause it as well as having other benefits of course. Only when running an Oxydator (or ozone come to that) can you see just how clear the water can be in fact sparkling is the word often used. 2 Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 I have just installed a 4" 400 micron filter bag on my sump entry pipe. I have used this coarser bag ( previous one is 200 microns) as I have put carbon in it. The carbon should last approx a month and I don't want to be having to clean the bag with it in every few days. On the yellowing of water without using a skimmer even with a skimmer the water is often not as clear as it could be and the water can still be slightly hazy. This is where my Oxydator comes in as it will neutralize many of those compounds that cause it as well as having other benefits of course. Only when running an Oxydator (or ozone come to that) can you see just how clear the water can be in fact sparkling is the word often used. Indeed, and if you remember I posted a picture months and months ago about one of my tanks that has an Oxydator in it and the water was so clear that you could see all the way through to the back wall behind it (8 ft or so) and read the titles of the books on the shelves there ... basically the water was so clear that you could have thought there was no water in that tank Albert 1 Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 The Elephant Shark Genome yields interesting results ... and it is an odd Shark too ... Link : http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/01/14/sharks-bones-genome-video_n_4594504.html?ir=Science&utm_campaign=011414&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Alert-science&utm_content=Photo Albert Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 An interesting article on the importance of Light Intervals in our Aquariums Link : http://www.reef2reef.com/blog/the-importance-of-light-intensity-intervals-in-a-reef-aquarium/ Albert Quote Link to comment
atoll Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Could these be the answer to your nano/pico lighting problem? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161198218758?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Also available to other countries inc the US and for some reason cheaper than being sold for in the UK. 1 Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Could these be the answer to your nano/pico lighting problem? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161198218758?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Also available to other countries inc the US and for some reason cheaper than being sold for in the UK. Could be Les but does this somehow sound like a bit too good to be true ... Wonder what LED's they are using Albert 1 Quote Link to comment
atoll Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I asked the makers what LED's they are using and they replied "Bridgelux" They come with 20 LED's and as they state 50w for the unit I would suggest each LED is approx 2w and the whole unit run at more like 40w to prolong the life of the LED's as other manufacturers. I was told on another forum that " Reef Radiance is supposed to have this in soon as well" Whoever they are I assume a US LFS? Here is the spec of the LED's used. White 12000k 8 LEDs Red 630nm 1 LEDs Green 525nm 1 LEDs Blue 450nm 10 LEDs Could be Les but does this somehow sound like a bit too good to be true ... Wonder what LED's they are using Albert 1 Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I asked the makers what LED's they are using and they replied "Bridgelux" They come with 20 LED's and as they state 50w for the unit I would suggest each LED is approx 2w and the whole unit run at more like 40w to prolong the life of the LED's as other manufacturers. I was told on another forum that " Reef Radiance is supposed to have this in soon as well" Whoever they are I assume a US LFS? Here is the spec of the LED's used. White 12000k 8 LEDs Red 630nm 1 LEDs Green 525nm 1 LEDs Blue 450nm 10 LEDs Yes I saw the detail listed but not the brand ... and Reef Radiance is indeed a US company started by a Hobbyist .. http://reefradiance.com/index.html They appear to have quite a large choice of LED lighting so I guess there is something there for everyone who wishes to buy those types of lights. Thanks Les for the initial post which led to finding that a US company sells them as well Albert 1 Quote Link to comment
atoll Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I PM'd them asking the brand of LED's they are using and they replied "Brideglux" I will check out Reef Radiance on the net Yes I saw the detail listed but not the brand ... and Reef Radiance is indeed a US company started by a Hobbyist .. http://reefradiance.com/index.html They appear to have quite a large choice of LED lighting so I guess there is something there for everyone who wishes to buy those types of lights. Thanks Les for the initial post which led to finding that a US company sells them as well Albert 1 Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I PM'd them asking the brand of LED's they are using and they replied "Brideglux" I will check out Reef Radiance on the net Thanks Les, I would do it myself but the flu that came and went it back, and I feel like .. well you know what ... no energy Albert Quote Link to comment
atoll Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I checked out Reef Radiance but they don't list them as yet. The guy posting on the forum said "they will be stocking them soon" I wonder though at what price. . Sometimes the seller in China will agree not to sell them on eBay and the price from the distributor/importer then ups the price. Just got back some answer to a few more questions I have posed. "1 This light use the 90 degree lenses by defult. We can also provide 120 degree lenses if you need.(The actual angle of the 90 degree lense is about 85°).2 Sorry I do not know exacly what are the "drivers". There is something different between English and Chinese,So could you explain the "drivers" ?By the way, I have four customers who live in UK (Swansea, Manchester...) now. They told me that their unit works very well. One of the customer who lives in Manchester said he loves this unit, but the RED LED (630nm) is just a little "overpowering" for his reef. We can change the RED LED by light blue (420nm) or warm white (6000k) as his suggestion.Hope you like it.Thanks and best regards,Dick" I have written back explaining the word driver. 1 Quote Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 6000K is still cool white and won't change anything about the light or the color it produces. Warm white is in the 2700-3500K range. 6000K has only a minuscule amount more phosphor than the '12000K' chips it comes with, if they aren't already the same chip. Anything over ~8000K cannot be measured with accuracy, and especially not with the equipment the factories that produce these generic chips have. 2 Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I checked out Reef Radiance but they don't list them as yet. The guy posting on the forum said "they will be stocking them soon" I wonder though at what price. . Sometimes the seller in China will agree not to sell them on eBay and the price from the distributor/importer then ups the price. Just got back some answer to a few more questions I have posed. "1 This light use the 90 degree lenses by defult. We can also provide 120 degree lenses if you need. (The actual angle of the 90 degree lense is about 85°). 2 Sorry I do not know exacly what are the "drivers". There is something different between English and Chinese, So could you explain the "drivers" ? By the way, I have four customers who live in UK (Swansea, Manchester...) now. They told me that their unit works very well. One of the customer who lives in Manchester said he loves this unit, but the RED LED (630nm) is just a little "overpowering" for his reef. We can change the RED LED by light blue (420nm) or warm white (6000k) as his suggestion. Hope you like it. Thanks and best regards, Dick" I have written back explaining the word driver. Odd you had to explain what a driver is ... does not bode too good for their knowledge I would think ... just saying. An LED reseller that does not know what the components of what they sell are does not inspire much confidence in their qualifications I would think ! Thanks for the addl info ... and IMO if they are going to replace the red one as they state they should IMO use something much better than what they suggest as JediMasterBen also sort of points out ... Albert Quote Link to comment
atoll Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Nope Albert it the translation that he didn't get as in Chinese for driver. Here is his reply. "Dear Les. We use professional 50 LED Power Supply (CE & RoHS ) in this unit.I just find a power suppply fot the information:NL LED Power SupplyModel : NLGI-50PY-606AInput: 100-240V AC 50/60HZOutput: 15-35V (dimmer)Constant Current: 600mAMax.Output: 50W PF>0.9This is almost the best power supply we can use on this unit.We can change the lenses of the RED LED if you need:)Regards,Dick" Les. Odd you had to explain what a driver is ... does not bode too good for their knowledge I would think ... just saying. An LED reseller that does not know what the components of what they sell are does not inspire much confidence in their qualifications I would think ! Thanks for the addl info ... and IMO if they are going to replace the red one as they state they should IMO use something much better than what they suggest as JediMasterBen also sort of points out ... Albert I would have thought the K ratings from Dick came from the LED chips they use Bridgelux. And that the manufacturer and seller of the unit just assemble them. Les. 6000K is still cool white and won't change anything about the light or the color it produces. Warm white is in the 2700-3500K range. 6000K has only a minuscule amount more phosphor than the '12000K' chips it comes with, if they aren't already the same chip. Anything over ~8000K cannot be measured with accuracy, and especially not with the equipment the factories that produce these generic chips have. 1 Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Nope Albert it the translation that he didn't get as in Chinese for driver. Here is his reply. "Dear Les. We use professional 50 LED Power Supply (CE & RoHS ) in this unit. I just find a power suppply fot the information: NL LED Power Supply Model : NLGI-50PY-606A Input: 100-240V AC 50/60HZ Output: 15-35V (dimmer) Constant Current: 600mA Max.Output: 50W PF>0.9 This is almost the best power supply we can use on this unit. We can change the lenses of the RED LED if you need:) Regards, Dick" Les. I would have thought the K ratings from Dick came from the LED chips they use Bridgelux. And that the manufacturer and seller of the unit just assemble them. Les. I missed that but you are right ... a Chinese reading the word driver may think of someone driving a car or such Thanks for the clarification and additional details Les Albert 1 Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 New Regulations that will impact our Hobby if implemented as seen by Pet Age with references to Julian Sprung's recent talk about them http://www.petage.com/new-regulations-could-impact-coral-trade/ Albert Quote Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I would have thought the K ratings from Dick came from the LED chips they use Bridgelux. And that the manufacturer and seller of the unit just assemble them. Les. Bridgelux is an American company. They produce their own high-quality white LEDs and produce lower-power royal blue LEDs that are exported mostly to China, where other companies purchase them and apply remote phosphor to them to change their wavelength. Only the royal blue chips can be really be marketed as Bridgelux, though, as despite the white LEDs having a Bridgelux chip as their base, the manufacturers are applying their own phosphors to them, making them their own. The Chinese aren't all that great with phosphor tech, too, so they'll be all over the place as far as color temperature and CRI, even from the same batch. There are a few companies that have managed to be better than the others, but it's still not the kind of quality that one could expect from American-applied phosphor mix. I still don't know how those chips can be sold for as little as they do - when LEDs are imported into China they are taxed ~40% to discourage manufacturing elsewhere, not to mention the cost of freight to there, the actual work of remote phosphor, and then importing back to the US or wherever, all for a $2 retail cost. 1 Quote Link to comment
atoll Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Right gotcha but you say leave the colours as they come rather than change the red and possibly the green chip's Jed? 1 Quote Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 No, I would ditch the green and red completely, and swap out the whites. Pretty much changing the whole thing lol. I'd probably run with 6x of a neutral white in the 4-5K range, leave the royals the same, add in two chips in the 470-480nm range, and then two violets. 1 Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 The OSRAS 2014 Conference in Warwick, R.I. where Dr. Sanjay Joshi and myself will be the Speakers : http://www.osrasconference2014.com Albert Quote Link to comment
hypostatic Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Indeed, and if you remember I posted a picture months and months ago about one of my tanks that has an Oxydator in it and the water was so clear that you could see all the way through to the back wall behind it (8 ft or so) and read the titles of the books on the shelves there ... basically the water was so clear that you could have thought there was no water in that tank Albert Can you give some more information about this oxydator? 1 Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Can you give some more information about this oxydator? Yes I can, I have a write up about it on my PC somewhere ... let me find it and I will upload it to my ISP and then post a link here. Albert 1 Quote Link to comment
atoll Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Yes I can, I have a write up about it on my PC somewhere ... let me find it and I will upload it to my ISP and then post a link here. Albert One day Albert one day there might just be some recognition for the Oxydator. 1 Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 One day Albert one day there might just be some recognition for the Oxydator. Very true less ... and sometimes it seems that both you and I have talked about the Oxydator more than Shochting the company who makes them has ... or so it looks to me anyway. I know I wrote it up in one of the Newsletters but I cannot remember which one so I will have to look for it, I believe it was around Issue 5 or 6 but I will figure it to and post a link to the pertinent information ... Oxydator = the best kept secret in this Hobby ---- Below is one in one of my Tanks ... but more to come ... Oops pic is upside down ... Albert Quote Link to comment
albertthiel Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Can you give some more information about this oxydator? Here is link to what I wrote in one of the Newsletters on Oxydators : http://www.athiel.net/Oxydator.pdf Albert Quote Link to comment
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