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Coral Vue Hydros

I Pet my Octopus Daily


Criley7

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I am going to use an AC20 with inTank media basket. I plan on having no fish just an invert or 2. Also extremely minimum feeding if at all.

Brandon429 who is also the peroxide expert, is the Pico expert. He recommends 100% water change the day after feeding to flush a pico completely and keep it from crashing - which is your main worry.

 

Personally. I let my pico sit, never tested, barely changed the filter media, did a water change sporadically.

Look:

IMG_20120307_152115.jpg

 

I had a lot of macros which did plenty of natural filtration and nutrient export. Of course I never really fed the tank, only occasionally for the hermits in there. Bristle worms populated it quite a bit so there must have been detritus they consumed.

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Thanks. Yea I read all of Brandon's suggestions and will be following them all. I also went BB to keep from getting any trapped nutrients that might add to a tank crash. Should I just run Purigen and Chemipure elite together in the ac20 or one or the other and Chaeto?

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Thanks. Yea I read all of Brandon's suggestions and will be following them all. I also went BB to keep from getting any trapped nutrients that might add to a tank crash. Should I just run Purigen and Chemipure elite together in the ac20 or one or the other and Chaeto?

I would do carbon and chaeto.

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I would do carbon and chaeto.

Dont you think the AC20 is a little to small to grow enough chaeto to remove enough nutrients to be beneficial?

That is my only concern really with using chaeto.

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If you're handy with the DIY type of stuff, nanotopia on this forum made a super small reactor. So did Needreefunds. You may be able to fit one in the filter but I don't know how it would fit in with a media basket.

 

 

 

Dont you think the AC20 is a little to small to grow enough chaeto to remove enough nutrients to be beneficial?

That is my only concern really with using chaeto.

An AC 20 is rather small, but whatever chaeto you get in there will only help you. If you are planning only inverts, consider using Chaeto as part of your display, wedged between rocks.

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Thanks For all the input Kat. I check out NanoTopia and see if I can just make it HOB instead. Ill take some input on a thread name for the new little tank. :D

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All inverts you say? Hmm, no backbone, no spines.

A spineless pico? :lol:

 

Gonna keep softies?

The Flacid Pico :lol:

 

Any worms on the agenda?

Slitherin. The Pico.

 

Bare Bottom you said?

The Tushie. Pico stories from behind.

 

25.gif

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I paid $100 because that's what I took to bribe the LFS owner to sell me him. It was his personal Octopus. But I can find common octopus for $40-$50 around here and Bimac octopus like mine for $60-$100

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All inverts you say? Hmm, no backbone, no spines.

A spineless pico? :lol:

 

Gonna keep softies?

The Flacid Pico :lol:

 

Any worms on the agenda?

Slitherin. The Pico.

 

Bare Bottom you said?

The Tushie. Pico stories from behind.

 

25.gif

haha Ill take all those into concideration, thank you. Im looking for something clever thats for sure.

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I paid $100 because that's what I took to bribe the LFS owner to sell me him. It was his personal Octopus. But I can find common octopus for $40-$50 around here and Bimac octopus like mine for $60-$100

 

are they difficult? my lfs had one and I thought it was the coolest thing. do they get big?

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are they difficult? my lfs had one and I thought it was the coolest thing. do they get big?

Common Octopus and Bimac usually dont get too big. From tip to tip max would be about 4ft but they usually stay much smaller around 2-3ft. They also only live about 1-2 years. In my experience they are fairly easy to keep. Once you make the environment completely sealed tight and safe, (they can fit their bodies through anything that their beak will fit through) then you are all downhill from there. Power heads are a concern because they are a curious animals so they may put their arms up the intake of a power head and lose part of them. Otherwise I feed a mix diet of live foods and frozen and tha'ts about it. I recommend a protein skimmer because they dirty water very quickly. Keeping the water clean isn't really as much for them as it is for the algae problems that come with the excess nutrients. There have been studies that show octopus living healthy and breeding in 200ppm nitrates and the only effects it had on them was less offspring. They have also found that they will survive with some ammonia in the water. So overall they are very hardy and as long as you can provided daily feeding(the expensive part) then you should be able to keep one alive without problems.

 

How big of a tank do they need?

I have mine in a 20H. This is a big enough tank for him, but I would recommend a 40B or 55g. Only because with such a small amount of water volume it is impossible to keep the tank free of nutrients. the only benefit in my opinion would be having much less nutrients in the water because of the increase in water volume.

 

In my next house(so I have the room) I would like to have a Giant Pacific Octopus. They reach a max of 20ft tip to tip with an average size being 9-16ft. So I will be housing it in a 250g to keep it happy.

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hmmmmm, cause I have a 40b and honestly the expense of corals and the equipment and the time to take care of corals is starting to get at me, maybe thats because im broke and I have a very low stocked tank but the octo would be so cool.

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hmmmmm, cause I have a 40b and honestly the expense of corals and the equipment and the time to take care of corals is starting to get at me, maybe thats because im broke and I have a very low stocked tank but the octo would be so cool.

+1

 

Take advantage of the petco sale and get another tank for a sump.

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hmmmmm, cause I have a 40b and honestly the expense of corals and the equipment and the time to take care of corals is starting to get at me, maybe thats because im broke and I have a very low stocked tank but the octo would be so cool.

The only thing to consider cost wise would be live food for a good mixed diet. Figure out the cost of live fiddler crabs and/or crawfish at your LFS. I would say 2-3 minimum a week, then everyday inbetween frozen silversides. I figure $8-$10 a week in food. If you can swing that and weekly water changes then you should be fine.

 

What do you do when they get too big?

They usually die before they are too big.

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