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Maeda tells it like it is..


Maeda

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Current tank equipment:

10 gallon standard AGA tank

Modded AC 70 (intake tube is shortest length possible, only 4 of the 6 impeller blades)

K Nano 240 powerhead

Oolite sand

 

My tank has recently been setup and only has water and sand in it. Currently the AC70 has created a hole in the sand at the front edge of the tank. I'm having problems with sand getting into the impeller part of the AC70 motor. If I keep the current sand should I try to lower my flow rate of my AC70, try to filter the sand before it gets into my impeller, or both? If I go the filtering route, what would be the best way? I've been thinking of stuffing some filter floss sponge around the intake tube opening. Would this be fine enough filtration to keep sand out of the intake tube? The other option is changing my sand to something bigger that hopefully won't kick up as much.

Probably won't happen once you get some rock in the tank.

As for a sponge on a filter intake... Bad idea.

 

 

The only thing I have seen which looks like sweepers are from my Acan and they are only a few millimeters long. With regard to the Frogspawn sweepers, I have never seen either of my Frogspawn corals send out sweepers. Is this a good sign?
You generally won't see Euphillia sweepers unless something has pissed it off.

 

 

I understand PAR, Kelvin, and everything else, but what is binning with respect to LED lighting?
I don't know.
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I imagine its like binning with any other manufactured good. Things are manufactured with specifications that are only so tight. So after a product is made they measure each one (for whatever it is they do, in LED's its light output) and then sort them into smaller ranges so that when you buy more than one they're all within tighter tolerance than whatever the manufacturer allowed range is.

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I imagine its like binning with any other manufactured good. Things are manufactured with specifications that are only so tight. So after a product is made they measure each one (for whatever it is they do, in LED's its light output) and then sort them into smaller ranges so that when you buy more than one they're all within tighter tolerance than whatever the manufacturer allowed range is.

This

I typed up a post explaining it, posted it, then deleted it because it made no sense. That pretty much nails it.

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altolamprologus
The only thing I have seen which looks like sweepers are from my Acan and they are only a few millimeters long. With regard to the Frogspawn sweepers, I have never seen either of my Frogspawn corals send out sweepers. Is this a good sign?

Their sweepers are elongated regular tentacles, not a separate set like on acans so sometimes it's hard to distinguish. They will put out sweepers when pissed off, in too high of water flow, or if too close to other corals. It's like they can somehow sense other corals near them because one of my hammers started putting out a lot of sweepers when I put a coral next to it, even though nothing else changed.

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My tank has recently been setup and only has water and sand in it. Currently the AC70 has created a hole in the sand at the front edge of the tank. I'm having problems with sand getting into the impeller part of the AC70 motor. If I keep the current sand should I try to lower my flow rate of my AC70, try to filter the sand before it gets into my impeller, or both? If I go the filtering route, what would be the best way? I've been thinking of stuffing some filter floss sponge around the intake tube opening. Would this be fine enough filtration to keep sand out of the intake tube? The other option is changing my sand to something bigger that hopefully won't kick up as much.

This is why I never use the oolitic sand. It just gets everywhere whenever you do anything, and it pisses of the corals.

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Biopellets :)

 

..so i've been told. I don't know anyone with a nice tank that runs one, and it has yet to be proven long term, so im waiting. I've been in this hobby too long to be the guinea pig anymore. I was one of the first carbon dosers in the states and I have nothing to show for being ahead of the curve when it comes to alternative strategies, so forgive me if im skeptical. Ive lost thousands of$ in sps attempting to be ahead of the curve.

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Are asterina starfish really gonna eat my zoas?

 

They very well might do just that. Although if your zoos are healthy, they shouldn't be bothered... most of the time.

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I dunno, I'm skeptical. I've read about and heard all kinds of stories about them eating corals from zoas to SPS.

 

I've had them in every tank I've ever set up. I've never seen them even on any coral. Nor have I seen any damage that may have been caused by them.

 

Perhaps (and I've heard this but never confirmed it) the ones I always end up with aren't the kind that eat corals.

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I dunno, I'm skeptical. I've read about and heard all kinds of stories about them eating corals from zoas to SPS.

 

I've had them in every tank I've ever set up. I've never seen them even on any coral. Nor have I seen any damage that may have been caused by them.

 

Perhaps (and I've heard this but never confirmed it) the ones I always end up with aren't the kind that eat corals.

+1

 

Ive never actually seen anyone have this problem. It kind of seems like this is one of those stories that is just passed around from reefer to reefer. Ive also heard claims that they eat coralline--while maybe true, Ive never seen them make a noticeable dent

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This

I typed up a post explaining it, posted it, then deleted it because it made no sense. That pretty much nails it.

 

I did the same thing. :/

 

You generally won't see Euphillia sweepers unless something has pissed it off.

 

Their sweepers are elongated regular tentacles, not a separate set like on acans so sometimes it's hard to distinguish. They will put out sweepers when pissed off, in too high of water flow, or if too close to other corals. It's like they can somehow sense other corals near them because one of my hammers started putting out a lot of sweepers when I put a coral next to it, even though nothing else changed.

 

Good to know. I have never seen any aggressive behavior from either of my Euphillia. I am picking up a pink tipped torch frag on Sunday, I am hoping to find a spot where it won't be upset.

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I dunno, I'm skeptical. I've read about and heard all kinds of stories about them eating corals from zoas to SPS.

 

I've had them in every tank I've ever set up. I've never seen them even on any coral. Nor have I seen any damage that may have been caused by them.

 

Perhaps (and I've heard this but never confirmed it) the ones I always end up with aren't the kind that eat corals.

 

I was too for a while, but in my most recent tank, i've caught them damaging SPS. :angry: Not exactly sure how or why they do it, but it's enough for me to start taking them out.

 

Given my setup (link in my sig), do you think I could add a harlequin shrimp?

 

It's going to be cool for a little while, and then you're going to have to start growing starfish to feed it.... I dunno you're that dedicated. but if you have any doubt, leave them at the fish store. They are super cool, but very specialized feeders.

 

What is the best way to mount Aussie Duncans?

 

In a way that they get light. :D Other than that I don't know. Sorry!

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What does it mean, exactly, when everybody says "run carbon"?

 

Isn't chemi-pure carbon? And if yes and you already have it, why would you want to run additional carbon?

 

Also, how much carbon should be run?

 

Tired of all this running, why can't carbon walk?

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Chemipure is carbon with additional resins. So, if you are running Chemipure, you are running carbon. And no, you wouldn't need to run additional carbon.

 

I will take this time to explain to EVERYONE, something about Chemipure. I see a lot of crap thrown around on the subject.

 

It's not some wonder product. It doesn't do all that's claimed.

 

Chemipure is a high quality carbon. It also has ionic resins mixed in the bag that adsorb various organic matter and chemicals. It will chemically filter your water better than carbon alone.

 

It will not last for 6 months, no matter how light your bio load. More than likely, the carbon is completely coated by bacteria within 3 weeks. Thus, rendering the carbon portion of it useless. The resins, I don't know much about. However, I'm sure they will continue to work. The only thing I'm really not sure of is whether or not bacteria will colonize on the resin itself. And, if they do. At what point are the resins no longer able to adsorb. These are things someone with more intimate knowledge of various resins would have to answer.

 

It will also not somehow magically make your PH rock solid. The removal of organic matter will help to stabilize the PH. However, regular carbon will do that just as well.

 

It will not magically boost your fishes immune system and increase their appetite. Clean healthy water, whether accomplished through skimming, water changes, carbon, Chemipure, or Purigen will do this.

 

Pretty much any claim on any product that seems outlandish, is just that... Outlandish. Clean water is the name of the game. However you accomplish that, will give you the exact same results as something like Chemipure. Like I said, it's not a bad quality product. Just don't think it's going to do all it says, for as long as it says.

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+1 to everything Ray says. I've never run any fancy filtration chemical in my tanks besides the occasional media bag of regular carbon and one time years ago I had to resort to some red-slime-remover. Good husbandry and maintenance habits are the key to this hobby, not some fix-all chemical.

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I will take this time to explain to EVERYONE, something about Chemipure. I see a lot of crap thrown around on the subject.

 

It's not some wonder product. It doesn't do all that's claimed.

 

You mean it won't make my junk bigger? :lol:

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Maeda - Just started a 28g. Picked up cured LR from LFS. Tank has been running for 2 days now. Should I use the media basket with filter floss, purigen, and chemi pure now or wait til the tank cycles? Thanks!

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Now that's funny right there.

 

 

If you think that's funny, you would love Ellen Degeneres' stand up. Or Whitney Cummings, or Chelsea Handler or (insert ANY other female "comedian" that is not funny in any way, shape or form)

 

 

 

What does it mean, exactly, when everybody says "run carbon"?

 

Isn't chemi-pure carbon? And if yes and you already have it, why would you want to run additional carbon?

 

Also, how much carbon should be run?

 

Tired of all this running, why can't carbon walk?

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Maeda - Just started a 28g. Picked up cured LR from LFS. Tank has been running for 2 days now. Should I use the media basket with filter floss, purigen, and chemi pure now or wait til the tank cycles? Thanks!

 

If the live rock was cured well it may not cycle.

 

I would still wait a few weeks just so you don't exhaust all that nice filter material if it does cycle.

 

 

 

If you think that's funny, you would love Ellen Degeneres'...not funny in any way, shape or form)

 

I like ellen. :mellow:

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If the live rock was cured well it may not cycle.

 

I would still wait a few weeks just so you don't exhaust all that nice filter material if it does cycle.

 

 

 

 

 

I like ellen. :mellow:

 

I was making a sexist joke about female standup comedians not being funny. Halfway joking. She is no doubt a funny person, but just not in a standup atmosphere. None of them are. That's why on that new show "Whitney" they have to find a way to get her in something skimpy/slutty at least once per episode. Which I have to say must be working because I have seen 3 episodes. Didn't laugh much though.

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