Maeda Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 Why is everybody in denial about amphipods munching on zoanthids? People are in denial because of the parroted rule-of-thumb-BS mentality. I've seen this happen, and I just freshwater dip the affected zoos and pray. .. also , don't rule out that the coral may have been dying and the pods are just getting a free meal in. Hello Mr. Maeda, How do you get rid of cyanobacteria? I think I have early stages of it on the left side of my sandbed and some in my sump, my tank is 6 months old by the way. I have a phosphate reactor( been running for a couple of months), macro algae, and I don't overfeed (I feed twice a week). Any tips or tricks on how to get rid of this nasty stuff? Thank you in advance. CYANO is a real pest. Sometimes you can do everything right and it just won't go away. Since you just have the early stages of it, I would check your alkalinity and magnesium. I can't count the number of times I just raised my alkalnity and the cyano disappeared(of course EVERYTHING else has to be in check). Blacking out the tank with newspaper for 24-48 hours seemed to work the last time I tried it as well. You could probably do with a waterchange too.. Link to comment
metrokat Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 When you have a problem like amphipods eating zoas or flat worms or those bugs that eat acros, and you are unable to pull out the frags, rocks, colonies for a dip; what is the solution to the problem. (assuming you can't add a wrasse either) Link to comment
Maeda Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 When you have a problem like amphipods eating zoas or flat worms or those bugs that eat acros, and you are unable to pull out the frags, rocks, colonies for a dip; what is the solution to the problem. (assuming you can't add a wrasse either) You have to take the entire rock out and dip it. Yah I know. That is why a preemptive strike on all new coral acquisitions is standard practice. I recommend to ALWAYS dip with Revive, and freshwater dip everything that can handle it (basically everything but sps). A QT would be even better. Certain particularly nasty pests won't be completely killed off by just 1 dip (AEFW I HATE YOU SO MUCH). Once these pests have a foot-hold, you will be breaking down your tank every week for a few weeks to do dips. Sorry. Just thank jebus that you have a nano. I have to use 30 gallon trashcans to dip. Link to comment
GrandLotus Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 I have just set up a new tank and have 1Lb of LR to 19lbs of Dry Rock. Another member here recomended that I 'ghost feed' my tank. Can you explain this? The Dry Rock isint seeming to have made any 'growth' from the LR in the last 5-7days. Link to comment
Maeda Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 I have just set up a new tank and have 1Lb of LR to 19lbs of Dry Rock. Another member here recomended that I 'ghost feed' my tank. Can you explain this? The Dry Rock isint seeming to have made any 'growth' from the LR in the last 5-7days. It's only been 5-7 days. Give it about 2-3 months and see where you're at then.. I don't know what that member meant by ghost feeding the tank, but I would guess s/he meant tossing in some food to rot in there to help jump start the cycle. Link to comment
metrokat Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 i dip in coral Rx, is revive better? Link to comment
Maeda Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 i dip in coral Rx, is revive better? I don't know? I THINK they're the same.. diluted pine-sol stuff right? If you're not doing SPS, I would do a nice FWD. ..oh, and check for EGGS. Link to comment
phoenix91 Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 My LR came with a fair bit of coralline algae, it seems to be bleaching. I just changed my light a few days ago to a finnex clip on with 26W bulb. Is there a reason coralline algea will turn white? will it die off and come back? Could it indicate theres something wrong in the system? i checked the parameters yesterday and ammonia : 0, Nitrate is around 10ppm. I haven't tested for anything else yet since i'll be ordering test kits in the next week or so. Link to comment
iball1804 Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Just thank jebus that you have a nano. I love the Simpsons movie. Link to comment
Maeda Posted November 1, 2011 Author Share Posted November 1, 2011 My LR came with a fair bit of coralline algae, it seems to be bleaching. I just changed my light a few days ago to a finnex clip on with 26W bulb. Is there a reason coralline algea will turn white? will it die off and come back? Could it indicate theres something wrong in the system? i checked the parameters yesterday and ammonia : 0, Nitrate is around 10ppm. I haven't tested for anything else yet since i'll be ordering test kits in the next week or so. To keep your coraline colored, you have to make sure your alk and calcium are high enough, and balanced. If it dies, it'll grow back again later. Link to comment
metrokat Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 I don't know? I THINK they're the same.. diluted pine-sol stuff right? If you're not doing SPS, I would do a nice FWD. ..oh, and check for EGGS. PINE SOL?! I dipped my ORA birdsnest too. Seems to be fine though.... I've zipped zoas, palys, mushies, acan, duncan, blastos... Link to comment
Deleted User 6 Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 It smells like pinesol. Link to comment
Maeda Posted November 1, 2011 Author Share Posted November 1, 2011 I use method I did too for a while, now I just refill their packaging with whatever... PINE SOL?! I dipped my ORA birdsnest too. Seems to be fine though.... I've zipped zoas, palys, mushies, acan, duncan, blastos... Have you tried fresh water dips? Link to comment
crazyfishgirl Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 So once the shrimp does it's thing take it out. Which do you like less, aptasia or shrimp? Once I buy an animal it stays with me, so returning it or giving it away after its served its purpose isn't really an option. As for which I dislike more? It's a toss up You could also consider using a small tube of crazy-glue gel. Pay attention to where the aiptasia retract into and glue liberally all over and around their hole. Once it sets they will be trapped and will die, the glue turns purple and zoila!!!! No aiptasia! Use a small tube because if you use a big container, one drop of water pulled into the container and you will have a block of set glue. That sounds easy enough. I would use kalk paste. Smother the little bastard under the kalk paste and leave it. They almost always die like this. You MUST turn off your flow when you do this. Turn off the pumps for as long as you can manage so the paste has some time to set, and won't blow around later. If the paste contacts and RBTA the nem would be ok, but it should be avoided. You should still consider getting pep shrimp. They're like a live food factory for your fish. They will more than likely survive without aiptasia to eat. Mine will eat anything. How thick does the kalk paste have to be? I appreciate this thread by the way. Very helpful Link to comment
PinkDamsel Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 Question about Mixing SW Why do people mix SW for hours & hours & hours, and is that really necessary? Does it take that long to dissolve most salt mixes? Or is it more about aerating the water? How long does water take to aerate? My salt (ESV B-ionic 4-part) completely dissolves in @ 10 minutes. The instructions say it's ready to use right away provided the water is oxygenated. I mix up 3-4 gallons at a time for my pico and am wondering about the oxygenation part. Thanks for offering to help us n00bs. Link to comment
Deleted User 6 Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 My salt (ESV B-ionic 4-part) completely dissolves in @ 10 minutes. I use the same thing and change water immediately without ill effect. Some salt mixes take 24-48 hours for the pH to come to a balance (through oxygenation), and for some chemical compounds to level out (calcium and alkalinity for example). I've found that ESV is pretty right on after 15-20 min. of mixing. If you're concerned about oxygen levels, drop in an airstone while mixing. Link to comment
ezcompany Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 How thick does the kalk paste have to be? I appreciate this thread by the way. Very helpful kalk paste doesn't have to be too thick, just to the point where the viscosity will allow it to run through a syringe. once you have aptasia, they will almost always come back. my preferred method of killing is injecting the paste into the base of the aptasia, applying very hot water to the immediate area, and using a paper towel to wipe out all remnants of the anemone. rinse with ro, then place back into the tank. oh yeah, i am maeda's assistant Link to comment
Maeda Posted November 1, 2011 Author Share Posted November 1, 2011 Question about Mixing SWWhy do people mix SW for hours & hours & hours, and is that really necessary? Does it take that long to dissolve most salt mixes? Or is it more about aerating the water? How long does water take to aerate? As mentioned it really seems to depend on the salt mix. I usually just mix my salt days/weeks in advanced in LARGE batches so I can't really comment. I do find that aerating (with a maxijet) and waiting 24 hours seems to produce less cloudiness, and pissed off corals. I have often mixed up some water 30 minutes before dumping it into my tank for a water change. I know a lot of people that have done this with seemingly no ill effects.. but I'd love if a water chemistry expert could chime in on this one, but I don't think anyone actually knows.. oh yeah, i am maeda's assistant EZCOMPANY IS THE MASTER! Where's your tank thread foo? Link to comment
metrokat Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 Have you tried fresh water dips? Yes and it works as well but I did not think it would remove the serious threats. Does it? Link to comment
Maeda Posted November 1, 2011 Author Share Posted November 1, 2011 Yes and it works as well but I did not think it would remove the serious threats. Does it? It can but that largely depends on the threat of course.. Link to comment
iball1804 Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 Probably a stupid question - Why does xenia thrive and grow like a weed in one tank, but completely die in another tank? Let's say the tanks were very similiar. Iodine? Dirty versus too clean water? Link to comment
Maeda Posted November 1, 2011 Author Share Posted November 1, 2011 Probably a stupid question - Why does xenia thrive and grow like a weed in one tank, but completely die in another tank? Let's say the tanks were very similiar. Iodine? Dirty versus too clean water? This is actually one of the great mysteries of the universe. My advice is to wait for a year or two, and the desire to keep xenia will pass completely. Link to comment
iball1804 Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 Along with where did SeeDemTails go. Hopefully I graduate to SPS someday. I just love birdsnest. Link to comment
Maeda Posted November 2, 2011 Author Share Posted November 2, 2011 Along with where did SeeDemTails go. Hopefully I graduate to SPS someday. I just love birdsnest. I see your question and raise you a question.. who the hell cares? Her online persona was banal, and her tanks insipid. You don't need to 'graduate' to SPS. Just go for it. It's not really as difficult as people make it out to be. The difficult part is the consistency required. Link to comment
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