TMG Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 As close as I can get to the true color right now. I'll have to fiddle with it later. Hey Daniel, Beautiful colors! Which LED's and how many are used in this fixture? Forgive me if you have already written that in a previous post. Link to comment
Paleoreef103 Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Hey Daniel, Beautiful colors! Which LED's and how many are used in this fixture? Forgive me if you have already written that in a previous post. It's one of the nano-box units (12" 12 LEDs), but they just changed around which LEDs are included. I believe it's a mixture of RB,B,CW,NW, and Hyper-Red, but I don't know the ratios. You're selling me on those Hyper-Reds Dave. You should create some color boosting strips designed to get more punch out of standard LED fixtures (a mix of HR, B, and RB?) Link to comment
DaveFason Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 I use Deep Red in the Rebel line. DHaut is using.... NW, RB, Blue, Red. -Dave Link to comment
Zeadon Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 As close as I can get to the true color right now. I'll have to fiddle with it later. i must say that does look devine. and how would u compare diffused/non diffused? Link to comment
Trick Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Someone asked earlier if the NW LED's can be left out now and just use the 660nm to bring out warmer colors coupled with CW. Anyone on this? Dave? Link to comment
Genj Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 So, how much of this thread has changed the industry? Because what I see coming to market, after taking a break from this thread, astonishes me. Link to comment
jfarabaugh Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 So, how much of this thread has changed the industry? Because what I see coming to market, after taking a break from this thread, astonishes me. I really do think this thread along with the large one on RC is highly watched by the industry. Go back to the earlier days of this thread and the one on RC (both started around the same time) and you can track new product releases 4-6 months after the ideas showed up on here. Link to comment
Genj Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 I really do think this thread along with the large one on RC is highly watched by the industry. Go back to the earlier days of this thread and the one on RC (both started around the same time) and you can track new product releases 4-6 months after the ideas showed up on here. Wasn't the concept of this thread (on the other site) shot down and the cause of a few bans because the bible said RB/CW in 1:1 ratio only? I am glad to see it changed, but my perception of the history of the aesthetics experiment is rooted in this thread. Link to comment
Trogdor447 Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 You cant change stupid ie banning people for trying new things.. But you can change an industry by trying new things. Link to comment
jfarabaugh Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Wasn't the concept of this thread (on the other site) shot down and the cause of a few bans because the bible said RB/CW in 1:1 ratio only? I am glad to see it changed, but my perception of the history of the aesthetics experiment is rooted in this thread. I will not comment on the banning as that is how I got banned. Link to comment
blasterman Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Wasn't the concept of this thread (on the other site) shot down and the cause of a few bans because the bible said RB/CW in 1:1 ratio only? That's der_wille whining to his droogs anytime somebody disagrees with his closed loop Cree bible. This isn't a bash on the other site (I know the mode here don't like it and we should respect it), and the problem seems confined to their DIY forum where you do it his way, or leave. Never had an issue with their lighting forum. Most people are watching most threads anyways. I'm seeing more and more fixtures with a greater mix of colored LEDs, but I've yet to see a good fixture using neutrals. Mainly because neutral LEDs are more expensive than cool whites, and the Chinese can't make a good neutral because they can't get the phosphors right. There are also some really BAD fixtures entering the market as I mentioned a few days ago. Link to comment
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 I'm seeing more and more fixtures with a greater mix of colored LEDs, but I've yet to see a good fixture using neutrals. Mainly because neutral LEDs are more expensive than cool whites, and the Chinese can't make a good neutral because they can't get the phosphors right. There are also some really BAD fixtures entering the market as I mentioned a few days ago. Neutrals are the way to go and we have always kept them cheaper than the Cool Whites. First half of 2011 cool whites outsold neutrals 2:1. Now the quantities sold of Neutrals are about even to cool whites if not outselling them on a regular basis. I find it hard to get people to do build threads with their orders lately, it seemed like a trend earlier in the year. So it could be the fact that the build threads done earlier in the year are now being followed. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Neutral is what goes into all of my units as well. I do throw some warm cool whites in the mix to make the over all feel brighter but that is it. Deep red is also a huge step. It's hard to capture on camera but there is a difference. -Dave Link to comment
kgoldy Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 When one of us LED noobs orders parts to build our own fixtures (from milad), is there any way to know if we're getting a warmer or cooler bin of CW? Link to comment
Trick Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 When one of us LED noobs orders parts to build our own fixtures (from milad), is there any way to know if we're getting a warmer or cooler bin of CW? I think if you look at the details section it will tell you the bin. I know that the XM-L's he sells are a much cooler NW than the xp-g's, which i think is better because the really warm neutral whites bring out a more purple color when mixed with rb. Link to comment
blasterman Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 So it could be the fact that the build threads done earlier in the year are now being followed. Possibly. What still amazes me is we still have people following designs we know are 'bad'. The 10k LED fad was bad enough and seems to be waning a bit, but I'm still seeing big tank builds with narrow optics and LED's evenly spaced along the sink. Ok, so you actually want your tank to look like a high shool gym on prom night (diso shadows)? I don't get why more people aren't using the 'Evil cluster' as I call it, which is the big Bridgelux Neutral ringed by Cree Royals. It's a killer design, cost effective, and scales very efficiently on monster tanks. XM-L's just don't seem as practical as Bridgelux in neutral, IMHO. I finally ordered some high bin royals from Hero which should be around 460-465nm. I've been wanting to test a mix of royals about 10-15nm apart just to see if I can broaden the actinic envelope without getting into the too blue category which gets too difficult to blend. Dave's got the far red covered, so I really want to do some more work on blue. Link to comment
Tyron Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 I've been away for a while blasterman, do you have a link to this "evil cluster" i would like to see it:) Took a while, but I found it. http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...57668&st=60 Think I'll be implementing this in my next build for sure, just scale it to my needs. Link to comment
Trick Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 XM-L's just don't seem as practical as Bridgelux in neutral, IMHO. Why are they not as practical? Link to comment
blasterman Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 Why are they not as practical? For example: it takes two neutral XM-L's at 1400mA to match the out-put of a single N802 Neutral Bridgelux ($10.50), so there's the cost angle. Personally I prefer to use as few LED's as possible in builds. You can obviously drive an XM-L harder than 1400mA, but then the efficiency advantage for the XM-L starts to melt away. Also, when you start going above 1400mA your driver options rapidly narrow while the N802 drives at a nice and even 1050mA. Cree has some arrays out there to compete with Bridgelux, but they seem significantly more expensive and are tough to find. Obviously if there's something I'm missing post away. Since the start of this thread Royal Cree's have dropped to almost half their retail price and improved like, 30% in terms of efficiency, so nothing is engraved in stone. Link to comment
jfarabaugh Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 I finally ordered some high bin royals from Hero Who / Where is this person / place you are getting bin specific LEDS from? Also do you have any tank pictures of your latest creations? Link to comment
blasterman Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 My tank hasn't changed since the last posts I made, other than Zoas and Palys taking over the damn thing and fighting with my acans. When I upgrade my lights in a few weeks I'll take some more comparison shots. The high bin royals are here. I've yet to find them any place other other than buying a reel. http://www.hero-ledstore.com/cree-xlamp-xr...star-p-938.html I've been wanting to try a mix of different wavelength royals for awhile. Standard blues at 470-475nm are tricky to work with and easily over power the tank, but they produce actinic colors more akin to halides. A 2:1 mix of standard ~455 royals and ~465nm royals should blend nicely - in theory. Link to comment
Trick Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 Do you guys think we can forgo the use of neutral whites now that we are using deep red to bring out the warmer colors? I think we might be able to go back to cool whites if we're using deep red....... I'm just not a big fan some of the warmer neutral whites because they make our tanks look purple. Link to comment
Machupicchu Posted November 19, 2011 Author Share Posted November 19, 2011 Do you guys think we can forgo the use of neutral whites now that we are using deep red to bring out the warmer colors? I think we might be able to go back to cool whites if we're using deep red....... I'm just not a big fan some of the warmer neutral whites because they make our tanks look purple. No because you would be giving the spectrum too much of a scoop in the warmer range. You might just try replacing some neutral with cool, but i think the red is used just to pop color a little more and not necessarily change the whole feel of the spectrum. Link to comment
mmcguffi Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 DHaut--whatcha ya think of the deep red? Like ev'ryun knows pichurs dont really mean squat when it comes to LEDs Seems like it gives off a weird blending (like most red setups), any truth to this? Would you recomend including it? (you have it on a separate dimmer right?) Link to comment
Machupicchu Posted November 19, 2011 Author Share Posted November 19, 2011 i might include one if i do another build. Optics on everything but the red. Link to comment
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