d'Espresso Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 wow beautiful like always man! I love that purple tang one of my fav. i might do barebottom with no skimmer just weekly water change. how hard is it to keep it that clean? Link to comment
fishez4alivin Posted February 18, 2011 Author Share Posted February 18, 2011 wow beautiful like always man! I love that purple tang one of my fav. i might do barebottom with no skimmer just weekly water change. how hard is it to keep it that clean? David, at first it may seem like a pain in the butt. New tank algae will grow on it like a sandbed, but once your tank begins to mature, you clean it less and less. At around two months I added some small turbo snails and recently I added some larger trochus snails, and they are keeping the bottom clean. Link to comment
ajmckay Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 So you believe your neighbor's pesticides caused the tank to be poisoned? At first I thought it was actually because your ex bleached the tank... Either way that sucks you had to restart. Link to comment
fishez4alivin Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 So you believe your neighbor's pesticides caused the tank to be poisoned? At first I thought it was actually because your ex bleached the tank... Either way that sucks you had to restart. I'm 99% sure it was the neighbor spraying. Although there were times, I had second thoughts, usually coincided with phone calls from the ex..lol Link to comment
ajmckay Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 When I lived in my apt. I always freaked out because they would routinely come by and spray... Sometimes they would leave a notice, but other times I'm sure they just came in... Link to comment
fishez4alivin Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 Yeah, I know for a fact that the neighbor was using old, not sold in stores anymore, insecticide, because of the strong odor. Nowadays, insecticides are not as toxic smelling. Some actinic pics with wb adjusted for true color of coral. Link to comment
TheWAND Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Hey bud! Found your thread from your posts on my thread. This tank is looking good. Couldn't look through the whole thread yet since I'm on my cell, hopefully I'll get around to it later. What pinwheel are you running in your skimmer? And what depth? I tried the large ppw at 6-6.5" like recommended but I couldn't get it to stop overflowing until I brought it to 5.75". Pretty insane what difference less than an inch makes in a skimmer. Link to comment
fishez4alivin Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 Hey bud! Found your thread from your posts on my thread. This tank is looking good. Couldn't look through the whole thread yet since I'm on my cell, hopefully I'll get around to it later. What pinwheel are you running in your skimmer? And what depth? I tried the large ppw at 6-6.5" like recommended but I couldn't get it to stop overflowing until I brought it to 5.75". Pretty insane what difference less than an inch makes in a skimmer. Thanks for stopping by...I've only used the stock pinwheel on my ATB. I've owned it for over two years running it at 6 inches. Try closing the wedgepipe where the pins are relatively close together. Mine are no more than 3/8", but I skim more on the dry side, where I get a skimmer cup full a week, or nasty black nog. Link to comment
TheWAND Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Thanks for stopping by...I've only used the stock pinwheel on my ATB. I've owned it for over two years running it at 6 inches. Try closing the wedgepipe where the pins are relatively close together. Mine are no more than 3/8", but I skim more on the dry side, where I get a skimmer cup full a week, or nasty black nog. Oh I see. I was running the stock pinwheel at first at 7.5" and that was fine, but I wanted to give the large ppw a spin. I had the overflowing under control once the skimmer was raised to a little under 6 inches. I've always been a fan of ATB skimmers. I have a deluxe 12.5 on my large® system. It's pulling out a couple gallons a week dry, which is kind of crazy (and smelly). Link to comment
Dnic Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Absolutely love it. Do you really think that the 10 bulb 36" powermodule would be enough lighting for a 48" tank with similar height/depth? Link to comment
fishez4alivin Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 Thanks guys... Dnic, it depends on a few factors, mainly your rockwork and types of coral you want to keep. But for a sweet mixed reef, the powermodule would be perfect. I have used a 10 bulb powermodule over tanks the same dimensions, and what happens is coral get bleached out. On my old 36x24x16 I had the same 10x39w PM, and I had to hide coral under overhangs so they wouldn't bleach. With the new tank, I could keep any sps on the bottom, no problem. IMO 36" PM over a 48" tank would look good and have great coverage. You could even get a 48x30x22 and light the tank. I also think the light looks better when it's smaller than the tank dimensions. Oh I see. I was running the stock pinwheel at first at 7.5" and that was fine, but I wanted to give the large ppw a spin. I had the overflowing under control once the skimmer was raised to a little under 6 inches. I've always been a fan of ATB skimmers. I have a deluxe 12.5 on my large® system. It's pulling out a couple gallons a week dry, which is kind of crazy (and smelly). How big is your big system, over 200G I assume. Link to comment
Dnic Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Thanks guys...Dnic, it depends on a few factors, mainly your rockwork and types of coral you want to keep. But for a sweet mixed reef, the powermodule would be perfect. I have used a 10 bulb powermodule over tanks the same dimensions, and what happens is coral get bleached out. On my old 36x24x16 I had the same 10x39w PM, and I had to hide coral under overhangs so they wouldn't bleach. With the new tank, I could keep any sps on the bottom, no problem. IMO 36" PM over a 48" tank would look good and have great coverage. You could even get a 48x30x22 and light the tank. I also think the light looks better when it's smaller than the tank dimensions. How big is your big system, over 200G I assume. Yeah I was looking into getting a rimless 42x22x22, and from what you said I think i'd be better off with the 36'' 8 bulb. 28'' is a deep tank!! Link to comment
fishez4alivin Posted February 22, 2011 Author Share Posted February 22, 2011 Yeah I was looking into getting a rimless 42x22x22, and from what you said I think i'd be better off with the 36'' 8 bulb. 28'' is a deep tank!! it's pretty deep, if I did it again, I would have ordered a 44x30x22, using the 36" powermodule. I got the depth mainly so I could have plenty of room in front of and behind my aquascape, to allow the flow to circulate around it. You are going to want to get at least a 28" deep tank, with a 10 bulb, you can use an 8 bulb with 22". Link to comment
fishez4alivin Posted February 22, 2011 Author Share Posted February 22, 2011 More... ORA Dustin's Deep Water Acro My favorite Rocky Mountain Frags Rainbow Mille...it just pops Link to comment
fishez4alivin Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 from L to R Reefbrite blue Reeflux 400W 12K XM 400W 20K Reefbrite blue This light will burn your eyeballs! reefbrites on for 2 hours before and 2 hours after MH 20K on for 5 hours, both on for 3 hours Link to comment
peewee1467 Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 holy crap man, i remember posting on this thread back in 09 and this is the first time ive seen this thread since then. it looks AMAZING. i'm likin it a lot! Link to comment
disaster999 Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Ok, this week I am expecting some goodies both live and not so live. The first two items arrived today, the Hanna Alk checker, and the Apogee sensor. I haven't even opened up the box for the alk checker, but I was eager to get the PAR numbers for my light. I basically bought the sensor, and soldered the wires directly to some test leads I had extra. Of course I used shrink wrap to protect the connection. All you do is measure for m/A and take the number and multiply by 5. The tank picture is as it was lit during the test. I was basically trying to find out the numbers where some of my acros are mounted. 2x400W Back bulb is a Reeflux 12K, and in front of it is a XM 20K, I have one reefbrite mounted on the pendant, and it's a blue bulb. The high numbers sure drop once that sensor hits the water. All pumps were shut off, since surface agitation will lead to higher results. Here is my Multimeter and sensor, connected to the end of my algae scraper. i must say im a little disappointed in the par numbers for a dual 400W MH setup. Link to comment
fishez4alivin Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 Actually, they are good for using basically 20K bulbs, I know the Reeflux bulb says 12K, but in reality, it's a 20K bulb. I wish I had the meter when I owned the 10x39W powermodule. I like the way my corals look with them on, it's not too blue. I think a lot of people read that such and such bulb has higher PAR, when in reality, it's the bulb and ballast combo that puts out the PAR...The reflectors make a huge difference too. I know without using a meter, that my light with the Sfiligoi reflector puts out more light than say the same bulb and ballast on a spider reflector. For what I want, and what I got, this is the best bulb to use on my ballast. If I used a radium, it might not even fire. The best bulb with the highest PAR for my ballast is a XM 10K, which I have two. I'll try to get some measurements of those bulbs in a few days....I agree, I thought it would be a lot higher too, but that is a 24" pendant on a 40" tank. I have actually been considering swapping out my ballasts for a Bluewave 7 dual 250W ballast to fire a radium bulb. They are discontinued, but will fire the Radium closer to spec. That bulb is designed to burn at over 300W, I'm waiting to see the PAR under a friends Sfiligoi that runs 250 radiums. holy crap man, i remember posting on this thread back in 09 and this is the first time ive seen this thread since then. it looks AMAZING. i'm likin it a lot! Thanks man, welcome back..lol Link to comment
fishez4alivin Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 Can't believe I waited so long to get these LED strips, they sure make coral pop. Link to comment
d'Espresso Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 That last picture of the sps coral is looking out of this world with your new led strip! Amazing! Link to comment
peewee1467 Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 sweet pictures. do you have any frags for sale? im also in the sf bay area. in petaluma Link to comment
disaster999 Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 Actually, they are good for using basically 20K bulbs, I know the Reeflux bulb says 12K, but in reality, it's a 20K bulb. I wish I had the meter when I owned the 10x39W powermodule. I like the way my corals look with them on, it's not too blue. I think a lot of people read that such and such bulb has higher PAR, when in reality, it's the bulb and ballast combo that puts out the PAR...The reflectors make a huge difference too. I know without using a meter, that my light with the Sfiligoi reflector puts out more light than say the same bulb and ballast on a spider reflector. For what I want, and what I got, this is the best bulb to use on my ballast. If I used a radium, it might not even fire. The best bulb with the highest PAR for my ballast is a XM 10K, which I have two. I'll try to get some measurements of those bulbs in a few days....I agree, I thought it would be a lot higher too, but that is a 24" pendant on a 40" tank. I have actually been considering swapping out my ballasts for a Bluewave 7 dual 250W ballast to fire a radium bulb. They are discontinued, but will fire the Radium closer to spec. That bulb is designed to burn at over 300W, I'm waiting to see the PAR under a friends Sfiligoi that runs 250 radiums. Thanks man, welcome back..lol gotcha. i didnt realize its a 24" fixture over 40" tank. probably gotta hand it up pretty high to get the coverage. its still more than enough par for SPS, but just the moment i read 2x400w and saw those par # i instantly thought its a bit low. Link to comment
fishez4alivin Posted February 24, 2011 Author Share Posted February 24, 2011 sweet pictures. do you have any frags for sale? im also in the sf bay area. in petaluma Thanks, I want to wait 6 months to frag my acros, I want those colonies to settle in more before I stress them. I can frag acans or some chalices...but our local club has swaps, if you want frags, we have members who drive down for them, from as far as Santa Rosa. Disaster...yeah, it's 24" I hang it around 10" from the waterline, just high enough so fish and flow splashes don't mist on the glass. I'm sure I could squeeze more PAR out of this if I removed the glass, but it's better to lose it, then to have the reflectors get corroded. Here's the numbers with a new bulb replacing the 12K reeflux. Link to comment
fishez4alivin Posted February 26, 2011 Author Share Posted February 26, 2011 Received this in the mail today... MP60 closer to the back of the tank, left side....MP40 right side, closer to front, doesn't look too much bigger. Designed wetside like the mp10, so it's nicely upgraded from the MP40. MP60's have a fan in the dryside, the spacer is different, and easier to deal with. Also the spacer is attached via two sided tape. The pump runs quiet after the first two hours. Flow is much wider than the MP40, and I have it ramped up to 100% in Nutrient export mode. Link to comment
TheWAND Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 Nice pump. I have 2 running on a large system as well and everything in the tank gets more than enough flow. Link to comment
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