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Nanoty's 40 breeder.......


nanoty

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Thanks, I found the connectors I needed at Lowes and will probably start putting things together this weekend.

 

One question about the plumbing. Do you guys use any sealant on the threaded connectors besides teflon tape? Of course while at Lowes I picked up a bunch of other crap and ended up leaving without two 50 cent elbows that I needed to I need to make another trip.

 

I still need to pick up a 20h for the sump but I just hate to drop $45 on a new tank for a freaking sump.

 

Expect to see a freshwater test in the next few days.

 

 

PS. Jay-sun, the boy is doing great. Gaining weight fast and getting strong. He also sleeps all day and stays awake all night :rolleyes:

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I'm ready for water...... :D

 

Be glad you have to spend $45 on a sump. I'm going to have to build one myself for my 30g. Unless there is an 18" 15g+ tank out there that I don't know about. As of right now I plan on using wood and fiberglass.

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I'm ready for water...... :D

 

Be glad you have to spend $45 on a sump. I'm going to have to build one myself for my 30g. Unless there is an 18" 15g+ tank out there that I don't know about. As of right now I plan on using wood and fiberglass.

 

 

Actually worked on it a little tonight. All mocked up except for the soft tubing lines because the silicone on the bulkheads is drying. I would like everyone to check my setup for potential problems and correct me if there is problems. One thing I know I will need it an inline valve before the CL pump so I can remove it if need be. Other than that I am going for a very simple but effective setup.

 

 

Yes I totally stole my CL plumbing from Bdare. It seems like it worked so well for him that it was worth replicating. The 1" intake by the overflow drains to the QO6000 below the tank and then is pumped up to the 1" SCWD and then split to two 3/4" locline nozzles, one on each corner.

 

IMG_4706.jpg

 

 

Front shot shows the CL intake on the right of the overflow. Also you can see the sump return nozzles on each side of the overflow which are split by a 3/4" SCWD. I will probably mod it before I'm done but if t becomes a hassle I'll just ditch it for a Y.

 

IMG_4707.jpg

 

 

Close up of the 1" CL intake and quite possibly the ugliest silicone job ever.

 

IMG_4708.jpg

 

 

Here you can see the plumbing to the 1" SCWD better. I will also add a union underneath the SCWD so I can remove it easier if needed.

 

IMG_4710.jpg

 

 

You can see the corner nozzles better in this shot.

 

IMG_4714.jpg

 

 

Keep in mind the tank is hanging of the back of the stand since the bottom bulkhead silicone is drying. The reason the pump is so low is because I am hoping to use the head pressure to slow the flow down a tad. I might also add some 45s and keep the CL pump under the stand instead of behind it if there is room.

 

IMG_4717.jpg

 

 

 

That's it for tonight. I might try to water test tomorrow if the silicone is dry enough. What have I done wrong? I'm sure I effed up somewhere.

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Thanks, I found the connectors I needed at Lowes and will probably start putting things together this weekend.

 

One question about the plumbing. Do you guys use any sealant on the threaded connectors besides teflon tape? Of course while at Lowes I picked up a bunch of other crap and ended up leaving without two 50 cent elbows that I needed to I need to make another trip.

 

I still need to pick up a 20h for the sump but I just hate to drop $45 on a new tank for a freaking sump.

 

Expect to see a freshwater test in the next few days.

 

 

PS. Jay-sun, the boy is doing great. Gaining weight fast and getting strong. He also sleeps all day and stays awake all night :rolleyes:

 

 

Glad all is well with the little guy. They grow so fast. Its pretty amazing to watch.

 

On the threaded connectors all I ever use is teflon tape. Never had any trouble.

 

Will be watching for the fresh water test.

 

Jason

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ur going to need some ball valve in ur plumbing so u can take it apart and clean pumps and stuff. and u should add a union to the return line.

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ur going to need some ball valve in ur plumbing so u can take it apart and clean pumps and stuff. and u should add a union to the return line.

 

 

Yeah I mentioned adding a ball valve after the CL intake so I can remove the pump but other than that I cannot see anywhere else in the soft tubing I "need" a valve. The other end is above the waterline so there won't be any water in it when shut off.

 

I also mentioned adding another union under the SCWD return........back to Lowes........

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It looks good to me. The only thing I may have done different is extend the u tubes down more and aim them towards the sides of the tank, thus creating more water movement behind the rocks. Kinda like my spray bars......but that's just my opinion.

 

 

Good job btw.

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It looks good to me. The only thing I may have done different is extend the u tubes down more and aim them towards the sides of the tank, thus creating more water movement behind the rocks. Kinda like my spray bars......but that's just my opinion.

 

 

Good job btw.

 

 

 

I see what you mean. Pehaps it will be enought circulation the way it is, only time will tell. Thanks

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Well I did my first freshwater test tonight.........or this morning, whatever.

 

Problem: Overflow teeth openings too large. Makes tank water level too low.

 

Solution: Glue acrylic strips behind teeth to raise water level.

 

 

Problem: Sump drain sounds like a breeching whale. Used hard line that empties underwater.

 

Solution: Not sure. Perhaps soft tubing that is less angular.

 

 

Problem: Pumps are too freaking loud (not as loud as the drain).

 

Solutions: Deal with it or spring for newer quieter pumps.

 

 

Problem: Brand new 1" SCWD isn't switching.

 

Solution: Ef if I know. It had a packing peanut stuck in it at first. I pulled it out but it still doesn't switch. Going to email the manufacterer and see what they say.

 

 

Problem: Loosing my sanity.

 

Solution: Everyone needs to keep pushing me so I don't give up.

 

 

 

It is 2am and I am freaking tired. I am going to bed.

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I'm ready for water...... :D

 

Be glad you have to spend $45 on a sump. I'm going to have to build one myself for my 30g. Unless there is an 18" 15g+ tank out there that I don't know about. As of right now I plan on using wood and fiberglass.

 

18" tall or long? A 15g tall is 18", though sometimes hard to find.

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Well I did my first freshwater test tonight.........or this morning, whatever.

 

Problem: Overflow teeth openings too large. Makes tank water level too low.

 

Solution: Glue acrylic strips behind teeth to raise water level.

 

 

Problem: Sump drain sounds like a breeching whale. Used hard line that empties underwater.

 

Solution: Not sure. Perhaps soft tubing that is less angular.

 

 

Problem: Pumps are too freaking loud (not as loud as the drain).

 

Solutions: Deal with it or spring for newer quieter pumps.

 

 

Problem: Brand new 1" SCWD isn't switching.

 

Solution: Ef if I know. It had a packing peanut stuck in it at first. I pulled it out but it still doesn't switch. Going to email the manufacterer and see what they say.

 

 

Problem: Loosing my sanity.

 

Solution: Everyone needs to keep pushing me so I don't give up.

 

 

 

It is 2am and I am freaking tired. I am going to bed.

As long as you've waited for this tank if you give up I will dis-own you, and we will kick you out of the club!!! Your problems definitely suck, but it's just part of setting up a new tank. It will be okay. It sounds like you've got just about every issue solved already. If I were you I would try to just bare with the pumps, you will likely get used to it. I don't know what to tell you about the 1" SCWD, that one really sucks. If it worked well for you I was thinking about buying one myself.

 

18" tall or long? A 15g tall is 18", though sometimes hard to find.

18" long max.

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Well I did my first freshwater test tonight.........or this morning, whatever.

 

Problem: Sump drain sounds like a breeching whale. Used hard line that empties underwater.

 

Solution: Not sure. Perhaps soft tubing that is less angular.

 

Problem: Loosing my sanity.

 

Solution: Everyone needs to keep pushing me so I don't give up.

 

 

 

It is 2am and I am freaking tired. I am going to bed.

 

For your sump, you can keep it hard plumbed, just add a 45 as high up as you can so it isn't falling directly into the sump, rather slides down into it. I also recommend only submerging the outlet in the sump 3/4 of the way. This allows the water to slide down the pipe then across the water in the sump, and also allows the air to flow through the pipe canceling out any chances of a gurgle.

 

You could also incorporate a valve, preferably a gate valve, to the drain like Stoney Waters did.

 

Don't go nuts man!!! I know how it feels. Just got to get it sorted out, then get some salty stuff in it. If you need to, take a couple days off from thinking about the system, and get back to it after you get the frustration out of your system (I have had to do this multiple times during my build).

 

Let me know how it goes!

post-7376-1209312275_thumb.jpg

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Ghey, I suck at computer uploading and crap.

 

My wife just asked when the tank will be up and running and I think we should see water and LR in it by the end of April. This is assuming I don't crack the tank drilling it and set my house on fire out of anger.

tick tock, tick tock. Time's almost up.

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tick tock, tick tock. Time's almost up.

 

 

No shizzle. Considering finals are this week and we may be signing on a new truck tomorrow morning I have been a little busy. Oh yeah that doesn't include the sleepless nights from the kid who sleeps all day. That is why I was freshwater testing at 2am.

 

The mag 7 return pump is bearable but the QO6000 makes a lot of noise, almost a rattle or something. I am going to try the other one and see.

 

The loudest thing is the overflow drain to the sump. Even with a 45 deg elbow as high as possible as suggested it is super loud. I am thinking a valve to fill it with water may be the ticket. We'll see when I get a few minutes.

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No shizzle. Considering finals are this week and we may be signing on a new truck tomorrow morning I have been a little busy. Oh yeah that doesn't include the sleepless nights from the kid who sleeps all day. That is why I was freshwater testing at 2am.

 

The mag 7 return pump is bearable but the QO6000 makes a lot of noise, almost a rattle or something. I am going to try the other one and see.

 

The loudest thing is the overflow drain to the sump. Even with a 45 deg elbow as high as possible as suggested it is super loud. I am thinking a valve to fill it with water may be the ticket. We'll see when I get a few minutes.

 

Sometimes my QO4000 makes a rattling noise when I turn it back on after feeding my fish. Try turning it off and on a couple times and see if it stops. That works for mine.

 

The overflow on my tank is by far the loudest part too. My family and have not only gotten used to it, but kind of enjoy it.

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Well not an update but thought it was worth mentioning. I bought my 1" SCWD from www.glass-holes.com, same place I got my hole saws. It did not work from the start and I contacted Mike at his site. I got a very quick response saying he was shipping a new one and instructions on how to ship the old on back. I only emailed him to inquire if I needed to call the manufacturer but he is taking great care of me. I thought people should know that there still are people who care about customer service. More info when I get the new one.

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i sent mine back to champion and told them i wanted the 1" and i emailed them and they said that its being shipped out but they didnt tell me if theyre sending me the 1" version like i asked or just the same 3/4" which would suck

im just gunna sell the new one because scwd...SUCKS!!!

anyways, i would get oceanrunner

its SILENT and pretty nice

as for the drain, i have 45s and i have ballvalves

the 45s helped VERY little, not even worth it imo

the only thing that REALLY helped was the ball valves to fill the tube but im constantly worried that something might happen and the pipe may get clogged and the sump fills the tank and overflows

now for losing your sanity, join the club?

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Alright folks, here is where I'm at. I was very set on the closed loop for my tank to keep powerheads out of the main display but honestly I am not sure I want to jack with the CL right now. I am thinking about scrapping the whole thing at the moment for a pair of powerheads on a wavemaker. I would leave the bulkhead and strainer in it but capped off so later when I can afford a better pump and OM Squirt I could give it another shot.

 

I was thinking about getting rid of the brand new 1" SCWD and maybe getting a pair of modded MJ1200s on a JBJ Ocean Pulse or similar wavemaker. What do you think? The only problem I see with the modded MJs is they are so damn ugly. Why the hell can the Tunze be used on a wavemaker?

 

Other than that I still need to take care of the overflow. Too much water flows throught the large teeth to keep the water level where I want it. I was thinking about taking some black acrylic and and glueing it behind the teeth at a level that would give me the water height I need.

 

I think a ball valve will fix my drain problem which will leave me with putting together a sump, staining the stand and canopy and painting the back of the tank.

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