Nanoty's 40 breeder.......

[nanoty]

You still haven't even taken the sticker off of the tank?

 

 

 

I'm thinking about leaving it, kinda like how the homies leave the tag on their hats...........

[Lalani]

That's only if it shows the price.

[glennr1978]

nanoty is a busy man, I don't think he's had time in the last few months to take the sticker off.

 

About the tag on the hat thing.....I've seen people down here not only leave them on the hat, but on pants, shirts, etc.... This kind of crap has alot to do with why I intend to leave this place even though it's where I've lived 95% of my life.

[Lalani]

But you're supposed to be impressed by how much they pay for their clothes, duh!

[nanoty]

Alright folks, made a tad bit of headway tonight. I am a little embarrassed about the silicone job because all I had was black from doing my overflow and didn't feel like popping for some clear since no one will ever see the sump.

 

Another problem I had was squeezing everthing in. I am using a 20H because a 20L would take up the entire stand and not leave any room for my ATO container, etc. I also wanted a little fuge in the sump for some chaeto and maybe some rubble so I needed to make use of every bit of space possible.

 

The most space efficient way I could do it was to install the baffles at a angle, can anyone tell me if there is a problem doing it this way? Not that it matters cause it's done but still.

 

Anyways, I hope I get a chance to paint the back of the tank and maybe if it dries in time, set the whole thing up in the garage for a week or so of test run/leak testing.

 

Here are some ugly pics of my ugly sump. Skimmer and dump on the right, fuge in the middle and return on the left.

 

 

 

Here is with all the crap crammed in. I have a JBJ ATO for the return chamber and the heater will probably go in with the skimmer.

 

[glennr1978]

Can you take a pic from the side? I want to see how you have your baffles set up. It looks like you may need one or tow more.

[Nellis]

I set up my baffles pretty much the same way and so far so good. Diagonal doesn't seem to make too much of a difference.

[nanoty]

Can you take a pic from the side? I want to see how you have your baffles set up. It looks like you may need one or tow more.

 

 

Glenn, it is hard to tell from the pic (I have some from the side but dont feel like uploading them now) but the middle baffle is about 2 inches off the bottom, obviously the bubble trap. Anyways, I figured by the time the chaeto is in there most if not all of the bubble won't make it under the middle baffle and if it is still a problem I can add some floss or foam between them to cut the bubbles out. We'll see if it works, if not I'll take it down and add the third baffle to the bubble trap.

[glennr1978]

Get some water in that damn thing already

[bdare]

Just my feedback. May or may not be correct...

 

1) Usually you have more baffles after the skimmer to keep the bubbles from going on the the next sections rather than 2 before the return pump, but this may work out fine.

 

2) Smalllll fuge section. Won't be able to grow much Macro in the beyotch.

 

Other than that... looks good brotha. Like Glenn says... get some water in the beyotch already!

[nanoty]

Just my feedback. May or may not be correct...

 

1) Usually you have more baffles after the skimmer to keep the bubbles from going on the the next sections rather than 2 before the return pump, but this may work out fine.

 

2) Smalllll fuge section. Won't be able to grow much Macro in the beyotch.

 

Other than that... looks good brotha. Like Glenn says... get some water in the beyotch already!

 

 

WATER IS IN!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Final water testing is going on in the garage right now. I think the sump will work out pretty well like it is. Yes the fuge is pretty small but honestly it is bigger than it looks in the pics. I am not getting any micro bubbles in the tank right now and that's with no chaeto blocking bubbles in the middle chamber. Plenty of excess room for power failures (which are common around here) and it is running well.

 

I still think the water level is a bit low but that can be cured with a small strip of acrylic behind the overflow teeth. Also, the noisy a$$ drain pipe was shut the hell up thanks to a gate valve at the bottom, ftw.

 

Still need a few odds and ends. Heater, lights, sand and I am still waiting on my other tunze nanostream from some douche on another forum. Keep those fingers crossed, maybe my LR will be able to come out of the rubbermaid tub soon.

[glennr1978]

WATER IS IN!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Final water testing is going on in the garage right now. I think the sump will work out pretty well like it is. Yes the fuge is pretty small but honestly it is bigger than it looks in the pics. I am not getting any micro bubbles in the tank right now and that's with no chaeto blocking bubbles in the middle chamber. Plenty of excess room for power failures (which are common around here) and it is running well.

 

I still think the water level is a bit low but that can be cured with a small strip of acrylic behind the overflow teeth. Also, the noisy a$$ drain pipe was shut the hell up thanks to a gate valve at the bottom, ftw.

 

Still need a few odds and ends. Heater, lights, sand and I am still waiting on my other tunze nanostream from some douche on another forum. Keep those fingers crossed, maybe my LR will be able to come out of the rubbermaid tub soon.

 

pics or it ........you know the rest!

[Lalani]

WATER IS IN!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

pics or it ........you know the rest!

Yup, I totally agree.

[jflysmooth]

Hey Nanoty, nice setup so far. I wanna see pics with water in it though. I've been following your thread for a bit as I'm working on setting up a 40BR myself and you seem to be encountering all my problems ahead of me.

 

Are you at all worried that the gate valve on your drain is going to cause problems with flooding? I've been toying around with ideas for how I want to plumb mine, but I don't want it to make noise. I'm surprised your drain pipe was super noisy anyhow, as most people seem to report their durso's being a huge improvement.

 

I'm no expert at this, as I've only read about and haven't yet done any external plumbing, but it seems that throttling back the return pump is safer than putting it on the drain.

 

Another question: If you only have one standpipe in your overflow box (ie, no emergency drain or whatever), what made you chose to do an internal box and durso instead of putting your durso externally and freeing up some of the real estate?

 

I ask becuase I'm considering a calfo style box in the back or possibly a "standard" vertical box as you have done, but I'm just not sure I want to see that stuff in the tank. Sure, 18 inches front to back give a lot of room, but...

 

Thoughts?

 

(You're using a mag 7 for return, correct? How's the flow? PICS!! hehe. )

[FateX9]

like they say, pics or it didnt happen!

[nanoty]

Hey Nanoty, nice setup so far. I wanna see pics with water in it though. I've been following your thread for a bit as I'm working on setting up a 40BR myself and you seem to be encountering all my problems ahead of me.

 

Are you at all worried that the gate valve on your drain is going to cause problems with flooding? I've been toying around with ideas for how I want to plumb mine, but I don't want it to make noise. I'm surprised your drain pipe was super noisy anyhow, as most people seem to report their durso's being a huge improvement.

 

I'm no expert at this, as I've only read about and haven't yet done any external plumbing, but it seems that throttling back the return pump is safer than putting it on the drain.

 

Another question: If you only have one standpipe in your overflow box (ie, no emergency drain or whatever), what made you chose to do an internal box and durso instead of putting your durso externally and freeing up some of the real estate?

 

I ask becuase I'm considering a calfo style box in the back or possibly a "standard" vertical box as you have done, but I'm just not sure I want to see that stuff in the tank. Sure, 18 inches front to back give a lot of room, but...

 

Thoughts?

 

(You're using a mag 7 for return, correct? How's the flow? PICS!! hehe. )

 

 

Not really worried about the gate valve causeing a flood because its really not doing anything except slow the flow down to the sump. The durso makes the overflow quiet by raising the water level behind the overflow and not causing the giant waterfall. I might play with the hole in the top and try to dial it in but so far the gate valve has quieted it down a lot.

 

Everything I have read or heard about throttling back pumps wears them out a lot faster.

 

I went with an internal overflow because originally I planned on haveing the interior of the tank bare of powerheads and bulkheads (the CL drain would have been covered by LR) but now plans have changed a bit. I still have all the stuff to do the CL but I will be waiting a while so I can afford the best equipment for it. Personally I like the looks of a black overflow to bulkhead strainers but to each their own.

 

I honestly considered putting a emergency drain but never got around to doing it.

 

Yes I am using a mag7 cause I got it cheap, flow is ok through the SCWD but it isn't the main water mover. I am trying to score a OR2500 to see if it is any quieter (not that the mag is too loud) but haven't heard back from the seller.

 

Pics in a sec.

[nanoty]

Ok here is some surface aggitation with just one powerhead , still waiting on the other.

 

 

 

Sump. Need to jack with the skimmer position a bit, it's tight as hell with the drain.

 

 

 

Back of the tank. Yes the paint job sucks a rod but it looks good from the inside and thats all that matters. You can see the SCWD splitting the return, it will probably be replaced with a Y for reliability and increase flow. Don't mind the CL drain, I need to pick up an inline valve to cut it off. You can also see my single Tunze 6025.

 

 

 

Overflow shot.

 

[glennr1978]

Looks good man, and about damn time!!

[TJ_Burton]

Looks good man, and about damn time!!

 

+1

 

Lets see some LR in there!!!

[jflysmooth]

I guess my point is that with a gate valve limiting your flow back into your sump, you're basically imposing a partial restriction on your overflow from the get-go, leaving even less room for error if something were to cuase further blockage. Restricting the line TO the sump increases the chance of an overflow in the display.

 

Hence I would want an emergency overflow slightly higher than the existing standpipe. It is the pipe itself that rasies the level of water in your overflow box, the durso is just to keep it quieter by regulating the air, right? I'm afraid that if I go this route I'll have a lot of noise as well, which isn't what I want. Any idea why your durso doesn't make things quiet enough by itself? Hole too big or small or something? Would a stockman style perform better (if you've got any experience with

 

With the mag 7 at... 4 feet(?) based on your pics, you're getting like... 4-500 gph? Do you think that a roughly 10x sump/display turnover is sufficient, lacking, or more than enough? (I'm trying to decide which pump to get, myself) I was originally thinking about an eheim 1262 (like around 800 at 4ish feet) but now I'm almost considering a 1250 (would probably be really slow, like 200?) for a setup that will be essentially the same as yours.

 

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. It's nice to have someone doing what I'm planning on doing so I can run thoughts past you.

 

Thanks for the pics, too! Looks like you're getting great surface agitation.

[nanoty]

I guess my point is that with a gate valve limiting your flow back into your sump, you're basically imposing a partial restriction on your overflow from the get-go, leaving even less room for error if something were to cuase further blockage. Restricting the line TO the sump increases the chance of an overflow in the display.

 

Hence I would want an emergency overflow slightly higher than the existing standpipe. It is the pipe itself that rasies the level of water in your overflow box, the durso is just to keep it quieter by regulating the air, right? I'm afraid that if I go this route I'll have a lot of noise as well, which isn't what I want. Any idea why your durso doesn't make things quiet enough by itself? Hole too big or small or something? Would a stockman style perform better (if you've got any experience with

 

With the mag 7 at... 4 feet(?) based on your pics, you're getting like... 4-500 gph? Do you think that a roughly 10x sump/display turnover is sufficient, lacking, or more than enough? (I'm trying to decide which pump to get, myself) I was originally thinking about an eheim 1262 (like around 800 at 4ish feet) but now I'm almost considering a 1250 (would probably be really slow, like 200?) for a setup that will be essentially the same as yours.

 

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. It's nice to have someone doing what I'm planning on doing so I can run thoughts past you.

 

Thanks for the pics, too! Looks like you're getting great surface agitation.

 

 

Your probably right about the restriction. I will have to monitor it closely if I leave it. I will play with the durso some but the gate valve was what was suggested as a fix.

 

I should really add a emergency drain and might before the final setup if I feel like doing it again, I suggest you do the same if your going to do this also. This is my first drilled tank so I don't have experience with any other style overflow.

 

Not sure on the turnover of the return, the thing is that you don't want the water running through your sump too fast which is why I think Bdare switched from a Ehiem 1262 to a 1260 or whatever the smaller size is. He needed more contact time in the sump. Most of the time the return on tanks is just for that an either a CL or powerheads to the vast majority of water movement.

 

Your very welcome, I am not very knowledgable but I will try to help with what I can.

 

 

 

Hmmmmmmmmm. Any reason NOT to go with this instead of dual 150w?

[jflysmooth]

Yeah, I'd read that he switched to the 1260 which was what sparked my whole interest in low display/sump turnover and a higher CL turnover in the first place. Just not sure about doing a RDSB or not, in which case I'd want more flow.

 

As for the light... it looks pretty good, but I would question using two 250's instead of two 150s or something over a shallow tank like that if you don't need the extra light power becuase you might not need that much or want to put up with that much heat. The cost is basically the same for the equipment. Just overall you'd be using more electricity. You have to decide if you need that much light. Also, I'd recommend reading the bulb specs to see what you're getting out of it and what your options would be if you changed later. Sanjay's site ( http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/ ) has a lot of useful info on it. PPFD is useful light (PAR, sorta of) and CCT is color corrected temp (color the bulb actually burns)

 

I was actually considering putting a 175 Iwasaki 15k in a lumenarc mini, myself. I don't relish the thought of buying two halides if I dont have to, but I'm just not sure about the spread. The performance is amazing, though. I think Uhuru has/had one, if I recall, but I think it was on his cube. I've read good things about them.

 

TJ has a crapload of halides, glenn and bdare have 250s (I think that may have changed though), stoney has 2x150's, a bunch of people are running just t-5.s I guess the point is, you can use anything on a 40, so in the end its up to you.

[glennr1978]

Hmmmmmmmmm. Any reason NOT to go with this instead of dual 150w?

 

2 reasons. heat, and overkill. The 40 breeder is only 16" deep, subtract the sand bed and you're really looking at a very shallow tank. I think dual 150's would be plenty, but you already knew that . I also think you would have a very hard time keeping the heat down in the tank with 2x's 250w.

[Lalani]

Holy cow, there really is water in it!

[bdare]

WOOHOO!!!!

 

Ata boy Ty! You must be PSYCHED! Looks good man!