SeeDemTails 37 gal Mantle SPS and Zoa Reef

[lilredneckman]

SeeDemTails i was talking to Weetie and she says that when your zoas had fungus you just dipped them into (Tank water?) and just added iodine until the water turned an amber color and left them in their for about 3-5mins. What kind of iodine did you use and about how much do you think?

 

I have a little zoa fungus myself and the only iodine i have is made by Natu Reef and i cant seem to find out how much to add.

 

Thanks so much!

[abe]

you don't think your water will get HOT though? its not realy evap you should be worried about, it's sticking your corals in a frying bin... in this case a 37 gallon frying bin.

[Hinecken]

Hinecken,

 

I disagree about the zoas, I think you can have as many as you want, with SPS, and still be fine. We have several tanks that are LOADED with zoas and SPS, even some with tons of leathers with SPS growing right next to them.

 

I have plenty of growth, but the center brace on the 37 gal tank really just annoys me, and throws a shadow across the middle of the tank.

 

I am confident that I could control temps with two MH's in my hood, it would just take the right setup.

 

I have a ATO now so evap isnt an issue.

 

You can disagree, but I've seen it happen more than once. I'm not saying it happens 100% of the time, but it's definitely something to think about. If you have an ATO set up, why can't you set up a chiller? I assume your ATO reservoir is on the floor? Couldn't the chiller be next to it?

[SeeDemTails]

Yes, two 150w retros with 2 x 65 actinic CF's.

 

The lights will be over 10" above the water, trust me I know what I am doing it will be fine.

 

Hinecken, if I have any issues I will run carbon, but I have kept the two together for a long, long time in many tanks and have never had an issue, but I appreciate the insight!

 

My ATO reservoir is laying on the ground, while I make a custom acrylic one to fit in my cabinet I am making. There wont be any room for a chiller, and the tank is over 5 ft from the floor at its base, and the top of the tank is at about 7 1/2 feet from the floor.

 

lilredneckman, when I use iodine I usually use seachem reef dip, and just add enough drops to make the water amber colored. As long as the water isnt tea colored, you will be fine. The darker the water the shorted the dip. If that doesnt work, dont hesitate, move straight on to furan 2. Always make sure your water is good first.

[lilredneckman]

lilredneckman, when I use iodine I usually use seachem reef dip, and just add enough drops to make the water amber colored. As long as the water isnt tea colored, you will be fine. The darker the water the shorted the dip. If that doesnt work, dont hesitate, move straight on to furan 2. Always make sure your water is good first.

Ok becasue i tried the iodine dip last night and the water diddnt really change much color and i added ALOT of iodine and dipped them for 3 minutes. I dont have furan2 on my hands right now but i may be able to borrow some from a friend tomorrow.

[masterbuilder]

See,

 

Nice tank you have going there. Its been working like it is for you...so....if it aint broke........

I agree with others....adding another 150 MH might really not help much at all, could easily have the opposite effect your looking for. Plus I cant see how your going to keep the heat under control with 2 150's in a hood, I dont care if you have a dozen fans in there. If your bound and determined to add more MH light maybe check out some of the 175 watters. The light guy over on RC has some charts that show that a couple of them darn near put out the same PAR as a 250.

 

Me... I would keep the 150, ditch the PC's and add a few T-5HO's. You could really get the exact color you like then. Could look awsome with the right combo.

[SeeDemTails]

It has nothing to do with color, or light per say. I just cant stand the shadow anymore. And flourescent light isnt filling well enough.

 

Also, I think a lot of my deeper SPS colonies would benefit from it.

 

lilredneckman, it takes a lot to make the water amber colored. If you saw no improvments from the first dip, then I would just wait for the furan 2.

[masterbuilder]

OK... let us know what happens. We...or ...you...might learn something. I think its a toss-up on how it will go.

[SeeDemTails]

The house has central air, and I have been thinking about putting a small vent right above the tank in the ceiling. It wouldnt even be visible.

 

The only thing I am worried about is getting ceiling stuff in the tank when I cut it out.

 

This would normally not be effective, but my tank is less than 6" from the ceiling!

 

Right now with one fan I am having no problems keeping the tank where I want it. It is at 80* during the day and night, my heater keeps it stable. My tank is not being heated by the MH, and then cooling down at night.

 

I am fairly certain it will be ok, even if I have to drill a hole in the side of the canopy and mount the fan that way, I will do whats necessary. The back of the canopy is also open, about 3" from the wall, so it gets good circulation and the air being blown in by the fan is cold air, not recirculated hot air within the hood.

[masterbuilder]

Just put a sheet over the tank when your doing the ceiling work

[Hinecken]

Cutting an AC duct above our tank won't really solve any problem. The AC unit only turns on when the ambient temp in your house goes above X setting. That cool air isn't going to be blowing on the aquarium 24/7. It may actually make things worse by making your water temp fluctuate many times a day. That'll stress a tank fo' sho'.

[Withers]

It'll certainly give your corals a "fuller" color since they'll be receiving light from 2 different angles instead of one, but if you're expecting the corals in the lower part of your tank to get more light, I don't see that happening.

[Izzue]

It'll certainly give your corals a "fuller" color since they'll be receiving light from 2 different angles instead of one, but if you're expecting the corals in the lower part of your tank to get more light, I don't see that happening.

 

So Vic...your saying what see really needs is a larger lamp like a 250 or 400 MH

to penetrate deeper?

Izzue

[Withers]

So Vic...your saying what see really needs is a larger lamp like a 250 or 400 MH

to penetrate deeper?

Izzue

 

Definitely, to an extent. A 250 watter would probably be better than a pair of 150's, but a 400 would be overkill unless she had a tall tank (like her 65 gallon she's setting up). But then you run into the same issue of having one bulb to light an entire tank, your corals will look awesome from the top but not so much from the front.

 

Edit: Some people try to curb the effect by going barebottom (which will reflect some light back up at the corals), but it usually doesn't help all that much.

 

This also only applies to branching SPS, due to their shape.

[b_c_fisher]

Now theres a question what about putting a mirror under the tank? Would that reflect it fo ALL around lighting?

[SeeDemTails]

Let me rephrase that, Vic has it right both ways.

 

I dont want any more light at the bottom, I am getting enough right now, BUT, the shadows I get from not only the center brace but the angles of light due to the fact I only have one point of light.

 

Particularly, my branching corals like digitatas and acros, will be better lit on both sides, so they get better lighting on the under sides of branches, rather than only one side of the branch being exposed to light.

 

In nature, I think the sun moving across the sky compensates for this, but in our tanks it is hard to light a tank right with one light.

 

edit: you beat me to the part about branching corals vic, I knew you knew what I was talking about!

[filefish949]

Definitely, to an extent. A 250 watter would probably be better than a pair of 150's, but a 400 would be overkill unless she had a tall tank (like her 65 gallon she's setting up). But then you run into the same issue of having one bulb to light an entire tank, your corals will look awesome from the top but not so much from the front.

 

Edit: Some people try to curb the effect by going barebottom (which will reflect some light back up at the corals), but it usually doesn't help all that much.

 

This also only applies to branching SPS, due to their shape.

 

 

There will be additional light at the bottom with a 2nd light, trust me I have played with this, however, like Vic said, you will not get the deep penetration with a 150 that a 250 provides. the other manner in which to reach deeper is to use a higher PAR value lamp or more efficient reflectors, typically high par is inversely proportionate to color temperature... but a typical 6500k 175 and perhaps 150, with supplemental would defiantly reach the bottom of her tank

[Monkfish]

I love it so far looks greaT:)

[Atlantis Reef]

Looks good I love your aquascaping plz come to my house and do mine when I move my tank hehe

[SeeDemTails]

Tomorrow is the big day when all the corals get their permanent homes.

 

Everything is finally coming together, I have been stressing over this for the past couple months, so I am really pleased to finally be able to relax and enjoy the tank again!

[lilredneckman]

What do you think you are going to do with the monti frags?... I have this nice green/yellow acro that is kind of browning out under my lights... maby we could work something out?

[SeeDemTails]

You pay for shipping and you can have a couple 1" frags.

[lilredneckman]

You pay for shipping and you can have a couple 1" frags.

Ok thanks! Right now i need to get a couple of things together money wise.

[TJ_Burton]

Looking good there tails!

Nice to see your rainbow monti finally made it home!

[SeeDemTails]

Thanks TJ, your tank is coming along nicely!

 

So, I placed all the corals, all my zoas and my SPS. The sps side is thick already, I was hoping I would have more room, but I guess thats a good thing. I can still place a dozen or so small frags to grow out if I want, but no more big corals. I took pics but I forgot my camera at home today, I will post them tomarrow.