ich in a copper bath treatment?

[mitten_reef]

Dude, it’s one thing where you said you just want to listen to multiple opinions and advice and form your own conclusion. 

 

But it so far, all I see is you’re just here to defend your own bad ideas and methods, despite multiple sources to the contrary.

 

this hobby is for the long haul and if you keep rushing and wishing things will go well, I wish you best of luck. People have been kind enough to offer advices, at least try to follow at least something, anything. Instead of rambling. ALSO, spell check your posts. 

 

[specore]

1 minute ago, micoastreefing said:

Dude, it’s one thing where you said you just want to listen to multiple opinions and advice and form your own conclusion. 

 

But it so far, all I see is you’re just here to defend your own bad ideas and methods, despite multiple sources to the contrary.

 

this hobby is for the long haul and if you keep rushing and wishing things will go well, I wish you best of luck. People have been kind enough to offer advices, at least try to follow at least something, anything. Instead of rambling. ALSO, spell check your posts. 

 

This describes his other threads to t T as well.  I do suspect English is a second language, so the grammar I can excuse. 

[CoralStorm]

2 minutes ago, specore said:

This describes his other threads to t T as well.  I do suspect English is a second language, so the grammar I can excuse. 

i also use a phone to type

[CoralStorm]

22 minutes ago, WV Reefer said:

You cannot keep moving the sick/qt fish in and out of the display........ otherwise what’s the point of the qt tank?  

 

You have been given great advice in each of your threads...... take it. Quit fighting it and know that people are trying to help you. 

there is no abvois sign of it being sick as far as im concerned

[CoralStorm]

10 minutes ago, micoastreefing said:

Dude, it’s one thing where you said you just want to listen to multiple opinions and advice and form your own conclusion. 

 

But it so far, all I see is you’re just here to defend your own bad ideas and methods, despite multiple sources to the contrary.

 

this hobby is for the long haul and if you keep rushing and wishing things will go well, I wish you best of luck. People have been kind enough to offer advices, at least try to follow at least something, anything. Instead of rambling. ALSO, spell check your posts. 

 

here we go again with assumptions to be honest i am not defending my bad ideas but stating the position i am in and sometimes your solutions i agree with but with a money position im in i cant just buy something i am reccomended to get in an instant things like the rodi unit were sugested for months but only managed to get one recently same goes with and the "rushing" is an attempt to save money this is an expensive fish that leaving to get sick is a somewhat dumb idea

[Tamberav]

DT needs to be left fallow for the # of days needed, 76 for ich, 4 weeks for flukes. No cross contamination of equipment, QT needs to be at least 10 feet away. 

 

Another possibility is your fish has Lymphocystis. 

 

Even old cameras should be able to take better pics then that. My dad uses an old flip phone and stuff is still in focus.

 

Using your eyes to say 'the fish looks good' or the 'DT looks good' is pretty useless, we are talking about tiny parasites we can not see in all stages with our eyes. 

 

I am sorry money it tight and fish are certainly not more important than basic necessities in life but this hobby is a money sink and fairly expensive at times. However without proper diagnosis and curative measures, it is possible your remaining fish will die regardless of how good they look now. 

 

 

 

 

 

[Clown79]

To break this down as simply as possible.

 

Ich has many stages of its life. Spots only appear for a short duration. Once the spots are gone, it does NOT mean the disease is gone. 

 

A tank must go fallow(no fish) for 8 weeks for ich to die. Without going fallow, ich is still in the tank and the appearance of the disease can and will show up AGAIN.

 

Any fish in a qt with a sick fish, should stay in qt until ALL fish have been properly treated and are clear of disease.

 

There are proper methods of treatments, these are tried, true, and proven. They must be followed 100% or it's a waste of time.

 

No one is advising you to do something on a whim or maybe's. The advice is what's scientifically proven and will work. 

 

Do some research on proper disease treatments and qt protocol. It will confirm what others are stating.

 

 

Everyone here has offered excellent advise and proper methods of treatment and qt.

Following it will lead you to success.

 

 

 

 

 

[JavaJacketOC]

3 hours ago, CoralStorm said:

yes they are they are translucent meaning that they are semi transparent

Does it look like this?

 

[CoralStorm]

6 hours ago, Tamberav said:

DT needs to be left fallow for the # of days needed, 76 for ich, 4 weeks for flukes. No cross contamination of equipment, QT needs to be at least 10 feet away. 

 

Another possibility is your fish has Lymphocystis. 

 

Even old cameras should be able to take better pics then that. My dad uses an old flip phone and stuff is still in focus.

 

Using your eyes to say 'the fish looks good' or the 'DT looks good' is pretty useless, we are talking about tiny parasites we can not see in all stages with our eyes. 

 

I am sorry money it tight and fish are certainly not more important than basic necessities in life but this hobby is a money sink and fairly expensive at times. However without proper diagnosis and curative measures, it is possible your remaining fish will die regardless of how good they look now. 

 

 

 

 

 

 why 10 feet away i dont understand that oneand for a photo it is kinda hard to focus on a constantly moving fish

[CoralStorm]

4 hours ago, JavaJacketOC said:

Does it look like this?

 

yeah it does just the dots are slightly smaller

[CoralStorm]

6 hours ago, Clown79 said:

To break this down as simply as possible.

 

Ich has many stages of its life. Spots only appear for a short duration. Once the spots are gone, it does NOT mean the disease is gone. 

 

A tank must go fallow(no fish) for 8 weeks for ich to die. Without going fallow, ich is still in the tank and the appearance of the disease can and will show up AGAIN.

 

Any fish in a qt with a sick fish, should stay in qt until ALL fish have been properly treated and are clear of disease.

 

There are proper methods of treatments, these are tried, true, and proven. They must be followed 100% or it's a waste of time.

 

No one is advising you to do something on a whim or maybe's. The advice is what's scientifically proven and will work. 

 

Do some research on proper disease treatments and qt protocol. It will confirm what others are stating.

 

 

Everyone here has offered excellent advise and proper methods of treatment and qt.

Following it will lead you to success.

 

 

 

 

 

that would require my fish to die or disapear

[Tamberav]

34 minutes ago, CoralStorm said:

 why 10 feet away i dont understand that oneand for a photo it is kinda hard to focus on a constantly moving fish

Fish disease can be spread by aerosols. 

 

34 minutes ago, CoralStorm said:

that would require my fish to die or disapear

 

Fish shouldn't be dying in a properly set up QT. Why are they going to die? You just said they were eating and looking good in QT. 

[CoralStorm]

Just now, Tamberav said:

Fish disease can be spread by aerosols. 

 

 

Fish shouldn't be dying in a properly set up QT. Why are they going to die? You just said they were eating and looking good in QT. 

im talking about the 55 gallon it still has my 4 chromis in it

[Snow_Phoenix]

1 hour ago, CoralStorm said:

im talking about the 55 gallon it still has my 4 chromis in it

Why are the chromis not in QT if you're having an Ich outbreak in your DT (the 55G)? You're treating some fish for Ich in a QT but not all the fish...? 

 

If one fish has Ich, all fish in the system are exposed to/infected by the parasite, even if they don't show 'white spots' on their bodies. You'll have to QT ALL the fish and let the DT go fallow (fishless) for 8 weeks at least.

 

So those Chromis should be moved out into a QT as well. 

 

How many fish do you have left now? 

 

 

[CoralStorm]

thats it and by the way eaisier said than done i put all chomis in there and it would be war in the tank hey would kill eachother until space is balanced

[Snow_Phoenix]

23 hours ago, CoralStorm said:

thats it and by the way eaisier said than done i put all chomis in there and it would be war in the tank hey would kill eachother until space is balanced

Coral, I don't want to come down hard on you but the fish - all of them are your responsibility now. They are all sick. 

 

And if I could pull out six fish - one of which was a 0.75"-sized goby from my DT and QT him for Ich, you can pull out 4 chromis from your 55G to QT them as well. It's not a case of 'easier said than done' - it's a case of determination and will. If you want to succeed in this hobby, you must be willing to do what's best for your animals even if you don't like doing it. You bought them and willingly put them in your tank, so you have to take care of them. 

 

If you're worried the Chromis will kill each other, get a large storage bin (think of something around 25G++), put a lot of PVC pipes or T-Joints/elbow joints (as hiding places), a HOB filter and a heater in it, and you can reduce the chances of them killing each other because you're breaking up their line of sight from each other and giving them cover. You might not be able to save all the fish you have now, but you can at least save some of them. 

 

You can even run multiple QTs if you're too worried - use storage bins (I believe they call them rubbermaid bins where you live) instead of glass tanks since they are easier to clean, lift and store away after use. 
 

[Clown79]

7 hours ago, Snow_Phoenix said:

Coral, I don't want to come down hard on you but the fish - all of them are your responsibility now. They are all sick. 

 

And if I could pull out six fish - one of which was a 0.75"-sized goby from my DT and QT him for Ich, you can pull out 4 chromis from your 55G to QT them as well. It's not a case of 'easier said than done' - it's a case of determination and will. If you want to succeed in this hobby, you must be willing to do what's best for your animals even if you don't like doing it. You bought them and willingly put them in your tank, so you have to take care of them. 

 

If you're worried the Chromis will kill each other, get a large storage bin (think of something around 25G++), put a lot of PVC pipes or T-Joints/elbow joints (as hiding places), a HOB filter and a heater in it, and you can reduce the chances of them killing each other because you're breaking up their line of sight from each other and giving them cover. You might not be able to save all the fish you have now, but you can at least save some of them. 

 

You can even run multiple QTs if you're too worried - use storage bins (I believe they call them rubbermaid bins where you live) instead of glass tanks since their easier to clean, lift and store away after use. 
 

 

 

Everyone has provided excellent advice- numerous times but it's just a waste of time. there is an excuse given for everything and a lack of willingness to understand why certain things must be done and do it that way.

 

 

 

 

 

[ReefGoat]

My question for you is what does an "ich free" tank look like. If that DT had ich then it will have ich for many weeks to come. The only way to rid it of ich is for it to have no fish in it for 70-80 days. Youve already been told that. 

[mitten_reef]

19 hours ago, CoralStorm said:

here we go again with assumptions to be honest i am not defending my bad ideas but stating the position i am in and sometimes your solutions i agree with but with a money position im in i cant just buy something i am reccomended to get in an instant things like the rodi unit were sugested for months but only managed to get one recently same goes with and the "rushing" is an attempt to save money this is an expensive fish that leaving to get sick is a somewhat dumb idea

I wasn’t going to come back to this. But the bad defense continues. 

 

And no my previous comment wouldn’t even be closer to be considered an assumption, it’s merely my observation of your responses and behaviors toward finding your “so-called cure”. Many who have contributed on this topics would agree with me. No magic bullet here.  Again, good luck. 

 

 

[CoralStorm]

9 hours ago, Snow_Phoenix said:

Coral, I don't want to come down hard on you but the fish - all of them are your responsibility now. They are all sick. 

 

And if I could pull out six fish - one of which was a 0.75"-sized goby from my DT and QT him for Ich, you can pull out 4 chromis from your 55G to QT them as well. It's not a case of 'easier said than done' - it's a case of determination and will. If you want to succeed in this hobby, you must be willing to do what's best for your animals even if you don't like doing it. You bought them and willingly put them in your tank, so you have to take care of them. 

 

If you're worried the Chromis will kill each other, get a large storage bin (think of something around 25G++), put a lot of PVC pipes or T-Joints/elbow joints (as hiding places), a HOB filter and a heater in it, and you can reduce the chances of them killing each other because you're breaking up their line of sight from each other and giving them cover. You might not be able to save all the fish you have now, but you can at least save some of them. 

 

You can even run multiple QTs if you're too worried - use storage bins (I believe they call them rubbermaid bins where you live) instead of glass tanks since their easier to clean, lift and store away after use. 
 

this one seems more doable /\

                                                    |

[Tamberav]

People pull all their fish out of 300g tanks to treat, you can catch the chromis. Just drain the water into a temporary bin if you need to. If you can't catch em, you aint trying hard enough. 

[JavaJacketOC]

21 hours ago, CoralStorm said:

yeah it does just the dots are slightly smaller

 

You may have flukes. If the spots don't go away and just get bigger that's probably what it is. 

[CoralStorm]

On 12/29/2018 at 8:54 PM, JavaJacketOC said:

 

You may have flukes. If the spots don't go away and just get bigger that's probably what it is. 

if its not contagious then thats what it probobly is because after all thid time none of its companions have it or even the slightest sign of it

[JavaJacketOC]

1 minute ago, CoralStorm said:

if its not contagious then thats what it probobly is because after all thid time none of its companions have it or even the slightest sign of it

 

It is contagious, they have a life cycle like other parasites.  Probably still need to confirm what it is that you're experiencing so you can perform the correct treatment.

[CoralStorm]

45 minutes ago, JavaJacketOC said:

 

It is contagious, they have a life cycle like other parasites.  Probably still need to confirm what it is that you're experiencing so you can perform the correct treatment.

doing a bit more investogating and it seems liek it might be dead skin from the ich it had at one point could it possibly be this cause if so i can just put it in the dt and the cleaners will deal with it then again it could be sometging else it does not show any signs ir symptoms of the disease other than the spots and so far it does not look like its growing

Edited January 3, 2019 by CoralStorm