HM3105 Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 I didn't know Amphipods would eat coral. I have a TON of huge ones at night, but haven't seen any bad side effects. They just eat chalices? They started (I believe) with my zoas, I've lost several healthy frags. The progression is something like this. Healthy multiple polyp colony will look fine. The next day I'll see a polyp or two closed or usually just a nub. The colony will slowly decline and eventually completely die out. If I am able to move the colony to my frag rack usually they will recover given enough time. The receding chalices is a new development. The amount of flesh being lost on some them seems excessive to be due to alk issues PLUS its colony specific. The first LPS to fall victim was my war coral. It lost a large chunk overnight and there was no flesh left, just skeleton. Next was my Echninata. Then my Snakeskin, followed by my pink leopard, then my convict, and now my unnamed from Glenn. I'm slightly worried its something new added to our water supply due to all the flooding we had several months back and what I presume would be elevated levels of grossness due to run off from the flooding making its way back into our water supply. My water is testing 0 TDS but I have no idea about everything else. Link to comment
HM3105 Posted September 14, 2015 Author Share Posted September 14, 2015 Well did a 20% WC, picked up several dead bristleworms but I didn't see many dead pods. I'll check later tonight once the lights go out. Link to comment
HM3105 Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 So I'm thinking of changing up my WP-10 placement. Currently they are placed in the top corners of the tank. I'm considering placing them both at one end of the tank more in the middle pointing the same direction. Thoughts? I'm planning to upgrade to WP-25's in a few months also. I'm wanting to make a change because I don't think I'm getting enough flow across most of my coral islands. I appreciate everyone's input. Link to comment
ReefWeeds Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Apparently shooting in RAW helps Lightroom white balance stuff... These are two from my bus trip. I'll get better pictures of the rest in a day or so. I love those second ones Interceptor dose has been added to the tank So your vet is selling interceptor again? Wow, just did a google search.... didn't know they brought it back on the market..... AWESOME! HA! Me too. Happy for the dogs' sake - And for reefers So I'm thinking of changing up my WP-10 placement. Currently they are placed in the top corners of the tank. I'm considering placing them both at one end of the tank more in the middle pointing the same direction. Thoughts? I'm planning to upgrade to WP-25's in a few months also. I'm wanting to make a change because I don't think I'm getting enough flow across most of my coral islands. I appreciate everyone's input. I wish I could help! Still learning myself, so I am in no position to offer up any advice But your corals Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 IMHO buy the RW series, not WP or FS. Will be much easier to get a better flow pattern. You would have to lower the voltage on the WP-25 to not slap your corals around. Link to comment
HM3105 Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 I love those second ones So your vet is selling interceptor again? HA! Me too. Happy for the dogs' sake - And for reefers I wish I could help! Still learning myself, so I am in no position to offer up any advice But your corals My vet doesn't sell interceptor but I told him what I needed it for and he said to just have the place I ordered from call them and he would approve it. I'm going to be doing it again this week. Yeah I really liked those purple zoas too, I think that colony is alive. My frag tank crashed because I was sick for a few weeks and didn't keep up withy dosing regime =( Link to comment
HM3105 Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 IMHO buy the RW series, not WP or FS. Will be much easier to get a better flow pattern. You would have to lower the voltage on the WP-25 to not slap your corals around. The rw8 going to be too much ya think? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 The rw8 going to be too much ya think?The WP-25 would be worse. They are about even in flow rate from the get go. The WP series clog easily and lose most of their flow unless you keep them clean and have a small jet of water that comes from them. The RW series won't clog since the intake grates are larger and they have a broad flow pattern. Link to comment
ReefWeeds Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 My vet doesn't sell interceptor but I told him what I needed it for and he said to just have the place I ordered from call them and he would approve it. I'm going to be doing it again this week. Yeah I really liked those purple zoas too, I think that colony is alive. My frag tank crashed because I was sick for a few weeks and didn't keep up withy dosing regime =( Aww. I'm sorry to hear that!!! But that just means room for more frags Link to comment
HM3105 Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 The WP-25 would be worse. They are about even in flow rate from the get go. The WP series clog easily and lose most of their flow unless you keep them clean and have a small jet of water that comes from them. The RW series won't clog since the intake grates are larger and they have a broad flow pattern. Well I meant would the rw8 be too much or would the rw4 be enough in your opinion? I run my wp10 at 100% but I have noticed the clogging issue I was just thinking I might pull them and soak them in vinegar this week. Link to comment
Chris! Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Well I meant would the rw8 be too much or would the rw4 be enough in your opinion? I run my wp10 at 100% but I have noticed the clogging issue I was just thinking I might pull them and soak them in vinegar this week. Can dial it down so shouldn't be to bad. better to have one thats to much and dial it down then not be able to bump it up if ya wanted Pretty sure they can be dialed down quite a bit. Like Ben said go with the RW line if your gonna go jebao. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Yep, you can run the RW-8 down to around 12% power, so should be plenty of adjustability. I just bought an RW-8 for my 40, I'll let you know how it turns out. Link to comment
Chris! Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 I keep telling myself one of these days I'm gonna throw the rw-15 on the 40B for fun.... have yet to do it tho lol Link to comment
HM3105 Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 I keep telling myself one of these days I'm gonna throw the rw-15 on the 40B for fun.... have yet to do it tho lol Send it to me and I'll let you know if it works or not Link to comment
HM3105 Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 So I tested my alk yesterday before adding my two part and it read 8.5. I tested today after adding my two part and it read 10.5. I bet that's why LPS have been receding. I'll test again tomorrow morning before adding my two part just to make sure my test was done correctly. This brings me to my next question. I've been using Red Sea Coral Pro for probably 8-9 months now. I've tended to run my alk in the 10-11 range and I'm now starting to think that's unhealthy for my corals in the long run. So I'm probably going to switch to the regular Red Sea salt which has an alk around 7.7. I'd like to start targeting my my alk around 8-8.5. Thoughts? Link to comment
Slowtwitch Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 So I tested my alk yesterday before adding my two part and it read 8.5. I tested today after adding my two part and it read 10.5. I bet that's why LPS have been receding. I'll test again tomorrow morning before adding my two part just to make sure my test was done correctly. This brings me to my next question. I've been using Red Sea Coral Pro for probably 8-9 months now. I've tended to run my alk in the 10-11 range and I'm now starting to think that's unhealthy for my corals in the long run. So I'm probably going to switch to the regular Red Sea salt which has an alk around 7.7. I'd like to start targeting my my alk around 8-8.5. Thoughts? I run my Alk about 8.5-9 and my lps love it. Acans grow like mad. Been using reef crystals since I started reefing. Only have to dose minimally to keep things steady. Link to comment
ReefWeeds Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 So I tested my alk yesterday before adding my two part and it read 8.5. I tested today after adding my two part and it read 10.5. I bet that's why LPS have been receding. I'll test again tomorrow morning before adding my two part just to make sure my test was done correctly. This brings me to my next question. I've been using Red Sea Coral Pro for probably 8-9 months now. I've tended to run my alk in the 10-11 range and I'm now starting to think that's unhealthy for my corals in the long run. So I'm probably going to switch to the regular Red Sea salt which has an alk around 7.7. I'd like to start targeting my my alk around 8-8.5. Thoughts? If I remember correctly, Lawn ran/runs his alk higher and his LPS always have done well. I think he ran it around 10. But I'm sure he'll pipe in Link to comment
HM3105 Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 If I remember correctly, Lawn ran/runs his alk higher and his LPS always have done well. I think he ran it around 10. But I'm sure he'll pipe in I think you're right but he uses Seachem reef salt which is a good salt but I think they use something (borate?) To increase the alk so 10 might actually be 9. I'm really concerned about the 2 point swing though, that seems excessive to me. Link to comment
Chris! Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Send it to me and I'll let you know if it works or not I know they work, but anything other then a BB sps tank more then excessive So I tested my alk yesterday before adding my two part and it read 8.5. I tested today after adding my two part and it read 10.5. I bet that's why LPS have been receding. I'll test again tomorrow morning before adding my two part just to make sure my test was done correctly. This brings me to my next question. I've been using Red Sea Coral Pro for probably 8-9 months now. I've tended to run my alk in the 10-11 range and I'm now starting to think that's unhealthy for my corals in the long run. So I'm probably going to switch to the regular Red Sea salt which has an alk around 7.7. I'd like to start targeting my my alk around 8-8.5. Thoughts? Your fine with the 10 or whatever if your phosphates are a little higher, your real issue is the swing..... see next quote response I think you're right but he uses Seachem reef salt which is a good salt but I think they use something (borate?) To increase the alk so 10 might actually be 9. I'm really concerned about the 2 point swing though, that seems excessive to me. Thats actually kinda backwards.... it reads as like 9 but is actually 10 (or whatever). Your right 2 pts. is excessive, time to get a doser or start dosing manually a couple times instead of once daily Link to comment
HM3105 Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 I know they work, but anything other then a BB sps tank more then excessive Your fine with the 10 or whatever if your phosphates are a little higher, your real issue is the swing..... see next quote response Thats actually kinda backwards.... it reads as like 9 but is actually 10 (or whatever). Your right 2 pts. is excessive, time to get a doser or start dosing manually a couple times instead of once daily Yeah I'm thinkin one of those jebao ones might be nice. Maybe it depends on the test kit? If it's measuring total alk it would include carbonate, bicarbonate and borate. So if your borate is significantly higher (I think Seachem was 12x) it would show elevated alk? Link to comment
Chris! Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Yeah I'm thinkin one of those jebao ones might be nice. Maybe it depends on the test kit? If it's measuring total alk it would include carbonate, bicarbonate and borate. So if your borate is significantly higher (I think Seachem was 12x) it would show elevated alk? From my understanding borate doesn't show on most test kits. Link to comment
HM3105 Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 From my understanding borate doesn't show on most test kits. Talk to me about the phosphate alk thing, you said if they were higher my high alk wouldn't be an issue? Link to comment
Chris! Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Talk to me about the phosphate alk thing, you said if they were higher my high alk wouldn't be an issue? More of an issue with SPS, not so sure if it really matters as much for LPS, but its really just a balancing kind of thing. Somehow the higher phosphates allows a larger "buffer" if you will to allow alk to safely be higher. ULNS systems have to run alk much lower 7-8, but high nutrient systems can be considerably higher in the 9-11 range quite often. Link to comment
HM3105 Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 A few shots from around the tank, water change is tomorrow. The tank looks kinda crappy right now, I got sick for about 3 weeks and did not do water changes or keep up with my dosing regime. Needless to say, stuff isn't happy about that. Mostly it has resulted in a slimy algae attacking some of my zoas and the rockwork. I've increase my weekly water changes from 10% to 20% until things return to normal. This is from CGA, thanks Glenn! Yup, Sunny D's, Acid Reflux and some of my Utters got eaten/melted over night BTA that moved after my torch went hostile on its butt! Blasto's from CGA Blue tort? Red planet? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 From my understanding borate doesn't show on most test kits. Actually, it does. It is a part of alkalinity, so our test kits do measure it. Though, really, borate is just a buffer and doesn't really need to be added back as alkalinity, should use carbonate/bicarbonate instead Link to comment
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